The post–World War II years marked a pivotal moment for watchmaking. While earlier timepieces had been forged for the battlefield, the decades that followed, particularly the 1960s through the 1970s, were an era of pure creative energy. Watchmakers flexed their prowess in aesthetics, craftsmanship, and technical ingenuity.

The boldness and electric ambition of that time gave rise to iconic rivalries: the race to be the first watch in space (won by Omega), the race to develop the first quartz watch (claimed by the Japanese), and perhaps most famously, the race to build the most accurate chronograph.

In the latter, Zenith arguably changed the course of horology with the launch of the El Primero: the world’s first automatic, integrated chronograph movement with a high-beat frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour, capable of measuring time to 1/10th of a second.

But like all great horological legends, the El Primero story isn’t just one of innovation; it’s one of near-misses, bravery and quiet heroism. When quartz watches emerged and mechanical models seemed on the brink of extinction, Zenith’s then-American owners ordered the destruction of all El Primero blueprints and equipment.

But watchmaker Charles Vermot refused to accept the death of mechanical watchmaking. Acting on instinct and belief, he hid the essential plans and tools in the attic of the Zenith manufacture, defying orders at great risk.

“Without being against progress, I note that the world often goes through various cycles,” he wrote. “You are wrong to believe that the automatic mechanical chronograph will die out completely. I am thus convinced that your company will one day benefit from the whims and fashions that the world has always known.”

His gamble paid off. Years later, as the appetite for mechanical watches returned, Vermot’s hidden treasure trove enabled Zenith to resurrect the El Primero, securing the brand’s legacy.

While the movement remained true to its roots, the case it was relaunched in, the round and classic Chronomaster, wasn’t its original form. The first El Primero had actually debuted in 1969 in a tonneau-shaped case, with a bold panda dial that echoed the design codes of the era.

Zenith has since paid tribute to that very first iteration with the Chronomaster El Primero A384 Revival. Faithful to the original in nearly every detail (except for the sapphire crystal and updated movement), the Revival references old blueprints to resurrect the 37mm tonneau case, panda dial, red seconds hand, date window at 4:30, and perhaps most charmingly, the steel ladder bracelet.

The bracelet, originally created by the legendary jeweller Gay Frères (despite the name, they weren’t brothers), is a standout feature. Its unique design with open space between the centre links, gives it the nickname “ladder bracelet”. It was a signature element of El Primero chronographs from golden era, and we’re glad Zenith chose to keep it.

This story was first seen as part of the WOW #78 Vision 2025 Issue

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