Style / World of Watches (WOW)

Winning Form: The New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 39mm Fronts WOW’s Summer 2023 Cover

The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 39mm represents a fresh start, with some deliciously quirky touches

Jul 28, 2023 | By Ashok Soman

While we have very carefully considered the new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 39mm in deciding what watch from the brand would work for the cover, it is certainly not the easiest to photograph. The crystal dome that covers the dial is visually arresting but one of its plus points is that you cannot really see it. Thus the transformative effect of the tachymetre scale being enclosed by said crystal is muted. Being dyed-in-the-wool watch people, you know that the contemporary chronograph is marked by said scale being on the bezel. Nevertheless, legibility is not compromised here, which we spend a good eight pages explaining. For this story, we will get into the key points about fit and function.

Read More: TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 60th Anniversary Edition

On the first point, 39mm does not feel small in this package. This might be due to the extra real estate of the dial, especially when compared with the existing 42mm Carrera chronograph. The two models share traits and DNA and have similar wrist presence; the 42mm watch feels more muscular, thanks largely to the bezel ring or lip. The 39mm is a better fit, arguably, for more wrists and the crystal allows the Carrera to revisit its roots (originally a 36mm watch) when it debuted in 1963 without a tachymetre scale. Overall the case is also much more curvy, which may or may not put you in mind of the 1960s. The chronograph pushers are comfortable to use, having the right amount of tension and give, although this is highly subjective.

Read More: Baselworld 2018 TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph GMT

Movement wise, the Carrera 39mm is powered by the new TH20-00, which is a reworking of the existing Heuer 02. Apparently the old Heuer 02 was a unidirectional winder while the new and improved calibre is bidirectional. While it seems a minor change, bidirectional winding has pros and cons, the most significant of which is winding efficiency of course. More power is a winning argument as far as accuracy and convenience goes.

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