If you are the sort of enthusiast who looks for shockers in unexpected places, the Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon must be very enticing indeed. Typically, you would expect to see a watch in carbon at Tissot (where it already acquits itself well in a different form) or perhaps Omega (where it remains absent) but not at the retrolicious Longines. Before we saw this watch, we had a meeting planned with Longines CEO Matthias Breschan and we sent a flurry of questions, mostly about the rich history of the brand and its ability to make this past relevant again. Well, Longines has never made a watch like this…ever. We shall be steering our conversation with Breschan in a slightly different direction now.

So, what are we talking about here? The Ultra-Chron Carbon is a high-frequency dive watch that throws a tonne of precision engineering at you – if a tonne literally weighed 80 grams. That lightweight statistic is courtesy of the carbon case and fabric strap. Needless to say, the new model marks a significant evolution in the Longines lineup, and the biggest sign yet that carbon (in the Ultra-Chron a blend of epoxy resin and long carbon fibre strands) is going to blow up all over Swatch Group.

Beneath its bold exterior, the Ultra-Chron Carbon is powered by a high-frequency movement that operates at 36,000 vph or 5Hz. This impressive rate translates into exceptional timekeeping precision, a feature that is critical for both professional diving and just being professional in general. The dial of the Ultra-Chron Carbon is meticulously designed for clarity and legibility, even under challenging lighting conditions. Bold luminous markers and hands ensure that time is easily readable at a glance; the minimalist yet modern dial layout reflects Longines’ dedication to legibility, suitable for adventure and everyday wear.

It should be noted that this is not dive watch because the bezel is fixed, and this makes it intriguing. The strap’s design ensures that the watch remains firmly in place during strenuous activities, a crucial feature for a timepiece engineered for the active. The only remaining matter for the enthusiast to consider is the price (see below), which does put this version of the Ultra-Chron at the highest end of Longines’ bracket. Then again, this is a proper first for the brand so that might make the pricing more acceptable.

This story was first seen as part of the WOW #77 Spring 2025 Issue

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