Style / World of Watches (WOW)

Time to Shine: Playful Watches and Jewellery that Redefine Luxury

Beyond precision, today’s luxury watches and jewellery pieces add a touch of whimsy — celebrating versatility and artistry with a sense of joy.

Nov 18, 2024 | By Sanjeeva Suresh

At a time when luxury is typically defined by timeless elegance, a fresh wave of high-end watches and jewellery encourages the exploration of a more playful side of refinement. Leading the charge are designs that captivate not only through craftsmanship but with unexpected elements that defy tradition. From the out-of-this-world appeal of Omega’s Snoopy watch to the avant-garde mechanics of Ulysse Nardin’s Freak 1, these creations do more than mark time; they tell stories, spark joy, and invite wearers into a world where precision meets entertainment. Equally enchanting is Van Cleef & Arpels’ poetic approach, while Chopard’s Happy collection adds a dash of movement to its iconic designs. Meanwhile, Boucheron’s Question Mark jewellery range offers wearers an innovative touch with its versatile designs that seamlessly morph from necklace to bracelet. These pieces showcase the evolving role of luxury accessories — less about function, and more about duality and storytelling.

Watches

Luxury watches have long been celebrated for their precision and craftsmanship, but today’s designs are stepping into new territory — merging functionality with whimsical creativity. No longer just instruments of time-telling, these creations elevate the concept of wristwatches, offering collectors something far beyond the ordinary — a chance to wear storytelling on their wrists. These playful sartorial companions are both conversation starters and works of art.

Ulysse Nardin Freak 1

The Freak ONE is a modern timepiece inspired by the original Freak, retaining its signature features: the absence of a dial, hands, and crown. With The Freak, Ulysse Nardin pushed the boundaries of watchmaking by transforming the movement into an art form, turning the act of timekeeping into a display of kinetic creativity. What is impressive about this timepiece is that it is essentially a watch without a dial or hands, utilising the movement itself to display the time and, in turn, proposing that the movement could find visual expression as a form of kinetic art. The Freak also takes a new approach to materials, being the first watch with a silicium escapement. It is, therefore, no wonder then that the Freak line has garnered some 20 patents for Ulysee Nardin.

Read More: The Ulysse Nardin Freak is Having a Killer Moment

Here is a watch with no crown – the display is adjusted using the bezel, the watch wound using the casebook. As reported previously on WOW, Ulysee Nardin’s brand director for South East Asia and Oceania, Clemence Le Rolland stated that “The Freak deserves its current reputation for initiating the era of ‘modern’ watchmaking. This era shifted the focus away from a classical, albeit high-end, approach to watchmaking to one that prioritised creating something entirely different and innovative. It inspired other watchmaking brands and brought a twist to haute horlogerie.” The Freak ONE was honoured with the “Iconic” award at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), the most prestigious recognition in the watch industry. To be considered for this accolade, a watch must originate from a renowned collection or be a model that has made a lasting impact on the history and evolution of watchmaking for over two decades.

Click here to find out more on this timepiece.

Hermès Arceau Harnais Français Remix

In 2020, Hermès unveiled the whimsical Hermès Arceau Harnais Français Remix. This playful timepiece was a breakthrough not only because of its three-dimensional rendering of the Maison’s emblematic equine motif but also the meticulous detail and handwork that went into crafting it. A hand-engraved bisque (unglazed) Limoges porcelain dial captures the intricate majesty of the signature equine profiles against its soft, matte finish. Before the enamelling process — which imparts a smooth and glossy surface — the artisan carefully applies layers of colour through a meticulous sequence of delicate strokes. Each layer is fixed and enhanced through precise firings in the kiln, bringing the pigments to life. Produced in a limited and numbered series of 24, the Hermès Arceau Harnais Français remix watch is driven by the H1912 mechanical self-winding movement, which, like the gem-set gold case and raspberry alligator strap, is crafted in the Hermès Horloger workshops. Striking a blend of tradition and modern flair, the Arceau Harnais Français Remix is a celebration of Hermès’ playful approach to luxury, offering wearers a watch that is as much about personality and flair as it is about timekeeping.

Read More: New Hermès Arceau Harnais français highlights the Creativity of the entire Maison

Chopard Happy Sport

2024 sees Chopard pay homage to its famed 1993 Happy Sport watch. The Happy Sport collection has captivated horological enthusiasts for over 30 years with its playful, free-spinning gems that dance elegantly between two sapphire crystals. The mechanical movement, featuring an automatic winding mechanism, ensures the diamonds float freely on the dial without disrupting the timekeeping precision. Although both Chopard’s Happy Diamonds and Happy Sport collections showcase Chopard’s iconic “dancing diamonds,” housed in gold capsules with a bevelled base to enable their free movement, they differ in their presentation. In Happy Diamonds watches, the gemstones glide along the rim of the case, creating a distinctive, playful effect. In contrast, Happy Sport watches position the spinning diamonds between two sapphire crystals above the dial, resulting in a more seamless and integrated design that many find particularly captivating.

Beyond its technical ingenuity, the Happy Sport was the first watch to unite the nobility of diamonds with the robustness of steel, making it a true emblem at the crossroads of watchmaking and jewellery. True to Chopard’s commitment to beauty both inside and out, the meticulously crafted calibre is showcased through the sapphire case-back of the watch. With its soft curves and harmonious proportions, inspired by the golden ratio, the Happy Sport is more than a watch; it is a celebration of creativity, boldness, and joie de vivre that continues to define the Maison’s timeless appeal.

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Van Cleef & Arpels Pont des Amoureux

Inspired by a tale of romance, Van Cleef & Arpels has long celebrated the poetry of love stories. On the dial of the Pont des Amoureux watch, two lovers plan a moonlit meeting on a Parisian bridge. The man’s journey across the dial marks the passing minutes, while the woman’s elegant retrograde movement tracks the hours. At the stroke of midnight (or midday), their paths align, and the pair come together for a tender kiss, embodying the magic of love through time. Van Cleef & Arpels’ Poetic Complications collection showcases the brand’s watchmaking expertise, blending precious materials and timeless craftsmanship to create timepieces that tell a captivating story with every tick.

Van Cleef & Arpels’ Poetic Complications transcend their technical functions, offering moments of reflection and connecting deeply with the Maison’s spirit. Featuring a 38 mm rhodium-plated 18K white gold case adorned with round diamonds, the watch showcases a captivating grisaille enamel dial framed by a sculpted bridge in rhodium-plated 18K white gold. The timepiece is presented as a numbered edition and comes with two interchangeable straps and a diamond-set pin buckle, making it a true collector’s treasure.

Click here to find out more on this exclusive timepiece.

Special Mention:

Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Planétarium

Van Cleef & Arpels elevate the tradition of celestial artistry with the Planétarium Automaton, an extraordinary creation that marries horological precision with poetic wonder. Standing 50 cm tall and 66.5 cm wide, this intricate masterpiece brings the cosmos to life, showcasing the Sun, six planets, and the Moon, each orbiting at its authentic speed. A shooting star, crafted from gold, diamonds, and rubies, circles the dial to indicate the time, setting the planets into a hypnotic ballet accompanied by a custom melody by Swiss musician Michel Tirabosco. Adding a whimsical twist, every second planet rotates counter to its natural orbit, blending scientific accuracy with dreamlike storytelling.

Housed beneath a bespoke glass dome, the automaton combines exquisite materials with exceptional craftsmanship. Precious stones represent the planets — moonstone for Mercury, agate for Venus, and chrysocolla for Earth, with its opalescent Moon in orbit. Mars glows in carnelian, Jupiter is adorned with chalcedony, and Saturn’s rings sparkle with jasper, sapphires, and diamonds. At the centre, the Sun shimmers with over 500 diamond-set gold stems, animated by a trembleur mechanism that enhances its brilliance. Beyond its visual spectacle, the automaton features a perpetual calendar, power reserve indicator, and a musical box, making it a true celebration of art, science, and timekeeping ingenuity.

Read More: Midnight Planetarium by Van Cleef & Arpels

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso

The Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon is not just a timepiece but a bold statement of versatility and craftsmanship. Housed in an ultra-thin (9.15mm) pink gold case, it features a rectangular flying Tourbillon that can be viewed unobstructed on both sides of the watch, thanks to the absence of an upper bridge. Despite its light weight of just 0.455g, the Tourbillon is composed of 62 meticulously hand-assembled components. Powered by the Manufacture Calibre 847, the watch offers a second time zone on its reverse side, and the movement is only 3.9mm thick, highlighting the skill of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s watchmakers. The flip side of the case reveals beautifully crafted gold bridges with guilloché detailing and a sunray-engraved cradle with a mirror-polished disc, exemplifying the Maison’s attention to detail.

The Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon merges aesthetic sophistication with mechanical precision, fusing the iconic flying Tourbillon with the Duoface concept. Limited to just fifty pieces, this model embodies exclusivity and masterful watchmaking, with stylistic influences from the Art Deco era, a nod to the original Reverso’s 1931 design. This timepiece represents the pinnacle of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mechanical and aesthetic expertise, combining cutting-edge techniques with timeless elegance.

Click here to find out more on this exclusive timepiece.

Omega’s Speedmaster Anniversary Series

In 1970, OMEGA received the “Silver Snoopy Award” from NASA astronauts in recognition of its crucial role in the Apollo 13 mission, thanks to the Speedmaster’s life-saving performance. Fast forward 50 years, and the brand celebrates this milestone with a playful nod to Snoopy in a special edition watch. The silver dial is laser-engraved with Ag925, and at 9 o’clock, you’ll find an embossed silver medallion of Snoopy in his iconic spacesuit, echoing the design of the famous “Silver Snoopy Award” pin. Turn the watch over, and you will be greeted with an animated Snoopy on a magical hand inside his “Command and Service Module”. When the chronograph seconds hand starts, Snoopy embarks on a journey around the far side of the moon, which is decorated on the sapphire caseback using a unique micro-structured metallisation technique. An Earth disc spins in harmony with the small seconds hand, offering a whimsical touch to the timepiece.

The 42mm stainless steel case sits on a blue nylon fabric strap, which features an embossed map of the Apollo 13 mission’s trajectory. Completing the design is a blue ceramic bezel with a white enamel tachymeter scale and black engravings on the caseback in tribute to Apollo 13 and the “Silver Snoopy Award”. Driven by OMEGA’s Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 3861 movement, the watch is a stunning celebration of space exploration and the timeless charm of Snoopy.

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Jewellery

Boucheron Question Mark Necklace

The Boucheron Question Mark Necklace is a bold reinvention of luxury, merging elegance with intrigue. Its fluid, asymmetrical design forms a question mark, embodying the House’s spirit of curiosity and innovation. Crafted with exceptional attention to detail, it features a harmonious blend of diamonds and precious gemstones, all set in luxurious materials. The necklace offers a transformative design, shifting effortlessly from a necklace to a bracelet for versatile styling.

First unveiled in 1879, the Question Mark Necklace broke new ground in Parisian High Jewellery with its unique design and the groundbreaking absence of a clasp. The concept allows women to put their jewellery on with no assistance if they wish. This allowed women to wear it effortlessly, a symbol of creative freedom and independence. Today, it continues to be a signature of Boucheron, a transformative piece that marries timeless beauty with modern versatility.

Cartier Panthère: Indomptables de Cartier collection

The Cartier Panthère collection embodies the House’s iconic symbol of strength, grace, and sensuality. Inspired by the fierce elegance of the panther, each piece features fluid, curving designs that evoke the animal’s graceful movement and striking presence. Crafted with luxurious materials, including diamonds, emeralds, and onyx, the collection showcases Cartier’s mastery of craftsmanship and its deep connection to nature. Whether in jewellery or watches, the Panthère collection is a timeless symbol of bold femininity, capturing the allure of one of the most revered creatures in the animal kingdom. The watch that doubles as a piece of jewellery, Panthère de Cartier takes its name from the bracelet. Ultra-flexible, it mirrors the movements of the Maison’s emblematic animal making this timepiece a quintessential jewellery watch.

The Indomptables de Cartier collection celebrates the untamed spirit of the Maison’s iconic panther, a symbol of elegance and strength since its debut in 1914. These exceptional pieces combine exquisite craftsmanship with bold artistry, bringing to life the fierce yet graceful essence of the panther. Each creation in the collection captures the feline’s majestic allure through meticulous details, from lifelike textures to vivid gemstone accents. The Indomptables de Cartier is more than a jewellery collection — it is an ode to the untameable, a tribute to individuality, and a celebration of Cartier’s enduring legacy of innovation and artistry.

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Piaget Possession

The Piaget Possession ring is not just a piece of jewellery – it’s a personal gesture, designed for those who appreciate the extraordinary. With its two spinning bands, this 18K rose gold ring offers a playful, dynamic effect, inviting the wearer to engage with its charm. At the heart of the design is a Possession-set diamond, surrounded by radiant engravings that amplify its brilliance. The Décor Palace technique adds depth and character, while a band of diamonds enhances the elegance of the piece. This is more than just a ring; it’s an invitation to celebrate joy, energy, and the unique allure of Piaget’s craftsmanship.

The Possession “Décor Palace” Ring features a central Possession-set diamond, surrounded by 45 brilliant-cut diamonds, all set in 18K rose gold. The design merges expert goldsmithing with playful sophistication, creating a tactile experience that invites both admiration and interaction. Its four bands – two polished, one diamond-encrusted, and one engraved – are a perfect balance of elegance and whimsicality.

Click here to find out more on this exclusive timepiece.

Pomellato The NUDO Collection

Pomellato’s Nudo collection has been redefining modern luxury for over 20 years, turning vibrant gemstones into playful expressions of personality. With bold stones like amethyst, sapphire, and topaz set in sleek, minimalist designs, Nudo encourages wearers to mix, match, and stack—creating their own personal story through jewellery. The collection’s unique combination of colour and simplicity allows each piece to stand out, whether worn alone or in a stack, making a bold yet effortless statement.

The latest additions to Nudo, including the toi et moi rings and earrings, take this playful spirit even further. Sky-blue topaz and moss-green prasiolite are paired with sparkling diamond pavé, and are available in both “Classic” and “Petit” sizes, the rings are crafted in contrasting rose and white gold for extra fun and flair. The collection expands with four new necklaces, bringing the signature Nudo look to life in a fresh, feminine way with the addition of the sensual Clessidra cut. Creative director Vincenzo Castaldo captures the essence of the collection: playful, daring, and full of personality, offering a new, vibrant take on gemstone jewellery that is all about having fun with colour.

Explore the collection here.

Harry Winston The New York Collection

The New York Collection by Harry Winston is a dazzling tribute to the energy, elegance, and glamour of Manhattan. Since 1932, the city’s iconic landmarks and dynamic spirit have inspired the House’s legendary designs. This collection is a jewelled ode to New York, featuring ten sub-collections that celebrate its most cherished elements — from the brownstones of the Upper West Side to the vibrant hues of Central Park and the architectural grandeur of its cathedrals. Highlights include the Central Park sub-collection, where vibrant emeralds and sparkling diamonds reflect the lush greenery of the city’s iconic retreat. Each piece in the New York Collection seamlessly blends Harry Winston’s timeless luxury with contemporary sophistication, embodying the essence of high-society living in the city that never sleeps

The “fun” element of Harry Winston’s The New York Collection lies in geometric designs and contrasting materials, such as diamonds set against pops of colourful gemstones, which bring a modern flair to traditional fine jewellery. Whether it’s the bold asymmetry, the use of dynamic shapes like squares, circles, and triangles, or the way the pieces are designed to offer movement and versatility, The New York Collection has an engaging, lively spirit that contrasts with the more reserved nature of high jewellery. In essence, the collection brings a sense of lighthearted luxury that celebrates both New York’s vibrant energy and Harry Winston’s timeless craftsmanship.

Click here to find out more on this exclusive timepiece.

For more on the latest in luxury watch reads from WOW, click here.


 
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