Style / World of Watches (WOW)

Almost Unobtanium: Corum’s Admiral And Jacob & Co.’s Solar Baguette

Kelvin Tan of WOW dives into the surprising addition in Corum’s Admiral collection and Jacob & Co.’s unforgettable Dragon and Tiger watch.

Mar 16, 2022 | By Kelvin Tan
Corum Admiral 45 Automatic  Openworked Flying Tourbillon Carbon & Gold
Image: Corum

I have always been a fan of nautical themed sports watches for their functionality, robustness and outright versatility. And then, just as my mind races through those that caught my eye in 2021, here comes Corum’s new addition to their famed Admiral collection — the surprising Admiral 45 Automatic Openworked Flying Tourbillon Carbon & Gold. More than six decades back, the Swiss brand Corum gave birth to the collection that had roots in the great sailing races. Of course, since that time, the Admiral has gone through several iterations and changes until it became what it is today. Known mostly for its instantly recognisable dodecagonal-shaped bezel and the colourful nautical pennants found on the periphery of the dial, the Admiral is a sought-after and celebrated sports watch that is a bona fide icon.

Now, lo and behold, Corum gives us a new Admiral and it brings with it a plethora of wonderful enhancements to continue delighting its fans and audiences alike. To wear it is to essentially declare one’s love for open waters and the sea breeze. You can say that it is quite a refreshing breath of fresh air! What struck me was the highlight of this watch — its case. The outer structure of the watch is made from fluctuating layers of ultra-light carbon interspersed with gold glitter. These structures are what makes each case, and thus each watch, unique. What a way to make this Admiral a classy trophy for watches demonstrating not only heritage and watchmaking know-how, but also the creative use of cutting-edge materials. As a bonus, we can indulge in a little bit of luxury without being too ostentatious.

Corum Admiral 45 Automatic Openworked Flying Tourbillon Carbon & Gold
Image: Corum

And speaking of luxury, the already triumphant showpiece comes with Corum’s very own automatic flying tourbillon movement, the calibre CO 298. Made in-house by Corum, it beats at an accurate and mesmerising 3Hz. The movement has been skeletonised and allows for visibility of its finely finished components, including the bridges and said tourbillon, from the front and the rear of the watch. I take back what I said about the watch not being too showy — this is really a masterpiece of a sports watch! With Lady Luck on my side, maybe, just maybe, I can obtain one of the 48 pieces produced of this Admiral 45 Automatic Openworked Flying Tourbillon Carbon & Gold.

Jacob & Co. Astronomia Solar Baguette Dragon and Tiger

Just when you thought you cannot go bigger than the Admiral, here comes Jacob & Co.! The brand’s claims to fame in the watch world include its boldly opulent timepieces that are not just watches encrusted with precious gems without any sense of creativity and purpose. The firm’s releases over the past few years, the Astronomia Art pieces, namely the Phoenix, Dragons, Spiders, Octopi, Horses, Tigers and even world cities, tell me that there is much more to Jacob & Co. than just watches that are grandiose and stratospherically priced. In fact, while the initial releases were accompanied by some brickbats, the consistency and indisputable workmanship puts me in awe of their creativity.

A great example is this release for 2021. This time around, Jacob & Co. tackles two beasts that symbolise power and strength — the Dragon and the Tiger. Indeed, for many cultures around the world, nothing says more about the celebration of strength and dominance like these two fearsome creatures!

Jacob & Co. Astronomia Solar Baguette Dragon and Tiger
Image: Jacob & Co.

The Astronomia Solar Baguette Dragon and Tiger successfully combines three different worlds of art and skill into one unforgettable timepiece. On proud display are the immensely difficult genres of high horology, haute joaillerie and miniature sculpture. Bringing it all together and putting it all on display for the world to see is the watch’s incredible sapphire crystal case. I could pick up the watch and look at it from all angles and still not be able to spot all the fanciful details incorporated into the timepiece.

If you are familiar with Jacob & Co. then you would know the brand’s raison d’etre is to create luxurious horological art pieces to constantly delight and mesmerise. Every little detail would leave me fascinated and at the same time perplexed at their fine execution — from the hypnotic flying tourbillon cage to the lacquered Earthglobe. These act as supporting elements to the true highlights of the timepiece — the hand-sculpted and hand-painted Dragon and Tiger statues that look to be battling for dominion over one another. Captured frozen in mid-combat, these miniatures stare at you intently through the clear sapphire crystal. Staring back into the watch may not be so easy with the centrepiece of the watch being undoubtedly the sparkling brilliance of the two-carat 288-facet Jacob-cut yellow sapphire. Framed by the baguette-cut white diamonds on the case, it is going to really sit pretty on the wrist or even in a display cabinet as an ode to artistic watchmaking!

Ultimately, the presence of a mythical creature (the Dragon) combined with the tangible aura of a great cat (the Tiger) makes this a bold statement piece worthy of a strong and confident personality and one that fits a special occasion celebrating a huge milestone in life. I am not sure if I can pull off the former but for the sake of a big occasion, I may be able to somehow justify owning such a watch. Then again, I would need to find one first. After all, the amazing Astronomia Solar Baguette Dragon and Tiger is one-of-a-kind piece unique and I would need to be able to afford one first. I do not think I will have enough organs for it…

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