One of just two watches debuting for Zenith at the LVMH Watch Week, we thought it deserved more space than just a mention in our story on that fair. First of all, the Chronomaster Sport is a powerful collection for Zenith, and it taps into the brand’s rich history. Secondly, the specific gem-setting applied here is vitally important in fine watchmaking, marking this model as part of a movement that has left an indelible mark on the trade and collectors’ wrists. Well, maybe their safe because this is a very precious watch, but more on that in a bit.

As briefly mentioned in the LVMH fair report, Zenith has a very highly regarded flyback chronograph dubbed the Rainbow and this is not a direct successor. That Rainbow from the early 1990s or so was named not for the weather phenomenon but a sailboat, specifically an America’s Cup winner in 1934. The manufacturer followed up with a watch made, initially, for the French Air Force, but then sold to the general public (there is a story here that will take too much space to cover) after debuting at BaselWorld in 1997 as the El Primero Rainbow Flyback Chronograph. This model is marked by the use of a colourful chronograph minute counter. The new Chronomaster Sport Rainbow keeps the name, ditches the colourful minute register, adds the tri-colour subdials and the distinctive gem-setting that you see here.

That will serve to bring this story back to the watch at hand, which boasts 50 gemstones on the fixed bezel alone: 40 sapphires arranged in a rainbow gradient of colours, interspersed with 10 baguette-cut diamonds marking each 10-second interval. Adding to the colour spray here are baguette-cut sapphire hour markers, echoing the rainbow effect, set on a black lacquered dial. Rhodium-plated hands, including the iconic star-shaped chronograph second hand that completes a full rotation every 10 seconds, ensure legibility and elegance.

At the heart of the Chronomaster Sport Rainbow lies the El Primero 3600 calibre, a gussied-up version of the classic movement. Operating at 36,000 vph or 5Hz, this movement enables the chronograph to measure time with 1/10th of a second precision. The movement offers a robust 60-hour power reserve, ensuring reliability for daily wear. Visible through the sapphire crystal case back, the movement features a blued column wheel and a star-shaped rotor, reflecting Zenith’s character.

With a three-link bracelet in matching white gold, the new Rainbow will be very solid indeed. The watch is available exclusively through official boutiques and the brand’s online store.

This story was first seen as part of the WOW #77 Spring 2025 Issue

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