Staying somewhat on-topic, we must discuss Grand Seiko, which became a separate brand only in 2017 but was making waves long before. To be specific, Grand Seiko existed as an imprint under Seiko for more than 60 years. The SBGW295 that we cited earlier was a reinterpretation of the first watch to be called a Grand Seiko, in 1960. At that time, it was just another collection, much like the Prospex and Presage, and it was destined to remain largely unknown outside Japan.

This would not last though because Grand Seiko models became the treasured secrets of collectors globally. Grand Seiko suggests that this happened by dint of its watchmaking team’s dedication to crafting the ideal watch. So exacting were they in making all the little details count – the length and shape of the hands being just right – that the fame of Grand Seiko models grew organically.

This pattern marks Grand Seiko watches and sets them apart from most other brands, Japanese or otherwise. For example, despite not being marketed or publicised in the USA, whispers of Grand Seiko’s prowess pricked the ears of collectors in this most important of watch-buying markets. When the Internet went public in the 1990s, watch forums soon took off and that is where Grand Seiko found fame.

The message boards promised that the aforementioned hypnotic glide of the central second hand would impress everyone who saw it in person, making it a must to visit the Seiko booth at BaselWorld. It was at one of those visits, in 2012, that Seiko announced its intention to give Grand Seiko its independence. In the meantime, the brand-that-would-be continued to develop its abilities methodically.

The year 2009 saw the introduction of the Hi-Beat mechanical calibre — the first in more than 41 years. As its name suggests, it beats at 10 times per second, delivering an accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds a day, with a power reserve of 55 hours.

Channelling the spirit of its award-winning predecessors, this Hi-Beat movement, albeit with an added GMT complication, went on to win the Petite Aiguille prize in the 2014 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), solidifying not just Seiko’s, but also Grand Seiko’s reputation and ability to produce award-winning horological innovations.

Today, Grand Seiko — although separate from Seiko — still carries that same innovative spirit from before, with the added element of exquisite craftsmanship, especially in terms of dial design, inspired by the natural features that surround the manufacture’s bases in Shizukuishi and Shinshu.

This story was first seen as part of the WOW Legacy 2025 Issue.

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