Patek Philippe Nautilus perpetual calendar: First high complication in the Nautilus collection
Since its debut, the Patek Philippe Nautilus has been a time only watch, over its history, it’s added a power reserve, annual calendar and even a mono-dial chronograph. The Baselworld 2018 Patek Philippe perpetual calendar 5740, is the first high complication.
First introduced in 1976, the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3700, birthed from the fertile imagination of Gerald Genta, stands as a pioneer of luxury steel watches in the vein of his other creation, the Royal Oak. Watches like the Nautilus 3700 were also notable for one other quality, they were unexpected mechanical bulwarks against the encroaching, industry- disrupting technology known as Quartz. Quartz was cheaper, more precise and as new fangled tech, promoted as being the trendiest thing in watchmaking. After establishing a peerless reputation for classically elegant, gold and platinum dress watches, the Patek Philippe Nautilus (and later the Aquanaut), would soon establish the brand’s domain in sports elegance. In introducing a stainless steel watch with integrated bracelet, the Ref. 3700 Nautilus was a bold move in a brand known for conservative designs. Nevertheless, the Patek Philippe Nautilus would soon put the brand on the path of luxury steel sports watches but home to time only, annual calendar and chronograph editions, the Patek Philippe Nautilus never possessed a grand complication in the collection. That is until Baselworld 2018.
Patek Philippe Nautilus perpetual calendar 5740 : First high complication in the Nautilus collection
Since its debut, the Patek Philippe Nautilus has been a time only watch with a choice of two or three hands, at times, with a date complication even. This changed 22 years later when Patek Philippe introduced a Nautilus with Indication de Zone de Remontage or IZR (power reserve indicator) in a jumbo 42mm case. The 1998 ref. 3710 can be considered the first time the collection as ever had a complication (not counting the date) of any kind. While it was discontinued after 8 years, in 2005, Patek Philippe re-introduced the concept of complications to the Nautilus collection, this time a Patek Philippe Nautilus 3712 with time, date, moonphases, power reserve & subsidiary seconds in an interesting asymmetric layout. In 2006, one year after the introduction of a complication Nautilus model, Patek Philippe updated the collection with the 5712 (update of the 3712) and a introduced a revolutionary new mono-dial chronograph model, the Nautilus Ref. 5980. By 2010, Patek Philippe introduced another complication into the collection, the Nautilus Annual Calendar 5726.
For Baselworld 2018, Patek Philippe presents the first high complication in the Nautilus line with something of a brand signature – a superlative perpetual calendar, one of the manufacture’s most coveted classics. The Ref. 5740 Patek Philippe Nautilus perpetual calendar carries a noble countenance with the discreet elegance of an 18K white-gold case and the utility of a celebrated expression of high horology, a perpetual calendar that automatically recognizes the number of days in each month, including the periodically recurring 29th of February.
The Patek Philippe Nautilus perpetual calendar 5740 is driven by the famed ultra-thin self-winding caliber 240 movement with recessed 22K gold mini-rotor, further embellished with a thin perpetual calendar module, all ensconced with a 8.32 mm high case with 60 metres water resistance. As a result, the Baselworld 2018 Ref. 5740 Patek Philippe Nautilus perpetual calendar is in fact, it is Patek Philippe’s thinnest perpetual calendar. The architecture of the movement and its refined finissage, including the bridges with chamfered and polished edges as well as the Calatrava cross engraving on the winding rotor, can be admired through the sapphire-crystal display back.
The iconic design of the bezel is emphasized by vertically satin finished surfaces that contrast against polished chamfers. The dial of the Patek Philippe Nautilus perpetual calendar 5740 is decorated with the unmistakable raised horizontal embossing while continuing the same sunburst blue decoration that graced the 40th anniversary versions of the Nautilus in 2016. The three subsidiary dials of the Ref. 5740 Patek Philippe Nautilus perpetual calendar with analog displays (day of the week and 24-hour dial at 9 o’clock, month and leap- year cycle at 3 o’clock, date and moon phases at 6 o’clock) are harmoniously integrated in the subtly rounded octagon of the dial. The 24-hour display simplifies calendar settings. The moon-phase display is extremely precise. It is controlled by a mechanism that deviates from the actual position of the moon by merely one day every 122 years.
The correctors of the Patek Philippe Nautilus perpetual calendar 5740 (day correction at 9 o’clock, date correction between 11 and 12 o’clock, month correction between 12 and 1 o’clock, moon-phase correction at 6 o’clock) were optimally positioned with an ingenious system of deflection mechanisms and seamlessly integrated in the Nautilus case design. But even the innovation doesn’t just stop at the calibre but also the white-gold bracelet with a totally new, patented fold-over clasp featuring four independent catches to optimize opening and closing and to prevent the unintended release of either of the two clasp segments.
Ref. 5740 Patek Philippe Nautilus perpetual calendar Price and Specs
Movement Automatic Caliber 240 Q with 48 hours power reserve
Case 40 mm 18k white gold case with 60 metres water resistance
Strap 18K white gold with new, patented Nautilus fold-over clasp