Three years after the launch of the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 in a full yellow gold case, the timepiece is finally available in a full-steel version, to the delight of collectors who’ve been clamouring for this version. There’s a certain irony in calling a 37mm watch “jumbo”, but lest we accuse the watchmaking industry of having a tongue-in-cheek humour, we need to caveat that the nomenclature harkens to its legacy.

The history of the 222 has been well documented, but here’s a quick recap: When it was launched in 1977, it was considered as part of the Holy Trinity of sports watches, along with Patek Philippe’s Nautilus and Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak. While it didn’t enjoy the enduring success as its contemporaries, it was no less significant. Unlike its counterparts that were designed by the legendary Gerald Genta, the 222 was designed by a young Jorg Hysek, who had just left Rolex to establish himself as an independent consultant.

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Hysek, as you might know, went to establish his eponymous brand, but is also the design mastermind behind such icons as Breguet Marine and Seiko Arctura. It’s hard to determine how many 222’s were released in the 1970s, but some records show that 500 pieces were launched, on top of some 2,500 ladies, mid-sized and jumbo models. The word “jumbo” is not the only reference to the collection’s legacy: In fact, the watch itself is a pastiche of the original version, albeit with a modern touch.

The reissue of the 222 in 2022 hit all the right notes: the signature bottle-cap bezel, integrated bracelet, and the Maltese Cross positioned at 5 o’clock, all delivered with Vacheron Constantin’s trademark attention to detail.

It followed the 2016 launch of the Overseas collection, which had firmly established itself as the brand’s modern answer to luxury sports watches. The 222, long considered an inspiration for the Overseas, slotted neatly into Vacheron’s narrative as a nostalgic revival, but also a quiet flex.

In typical Vacheron fashion, production was kept deliberately minimal. The brand has been, dare we say, stingy with the 222, choosing not to push it as a permanent collection, but as a watch for those in the know. And it’s worked. Demand has remained high, with the steel version now generating as much buzz as the launch of the most complicated timepiece, the Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication.

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Priced at $46,100, the new steel edition is one of the first launches marking the brand’s 270th anniversary celebrations. And what a way to kick things off: while the Solaria shows off Vacheron’s horological firepower with a staggering 41 complications, the steel 222 is an exercise in nostalgia and refinement.

It is a beauty to behold, as well, as with a full steel case, bezel and bracelet (making it lighter than the gold version) with a striking blue dial and a date window at 3 o’clock. The Superluminova indices and hands are wrought in ivory, not white, while the Maltese Cross makes an appearance in gold on the right lug. It measures 37 mm, and houses the Vacheron caliber 2455/20, a decent workhorse which offers 40 hours of power reserve.

This story was first seen as part of the WOW #78 Vision 2025 Issue

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