Style / World of Watches (WOW)

H. Moser × MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon shows that Solidarity is the bulwark in adversity

The H. Moser × MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon shows that even amidst fierce rivalry, the best way of getting through difficult times is with a cocktail of friendship, artistry and mechanical majesty

Jun 03, 2020 | By Jonathan Ho

Unprecedented times bring unprecedented collaborations, two of the industry’s most iconoclastic watchmakers – H. Moser and MB&F have joined forces, giving form to the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon. Combining the exceptional flair of MB&F’s watchmaking dramatics and H. Moser’s exquisite horological purity, the H. Moser × MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon bringing together the talents of modern watchmaking’s most progressive ateliers.

Within the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon, two Maisons co-sign – that is to put their names – on a pair of superlative creations, blending the primary DNA of both house styles into one watch. For fans of H. Moser, they will see the signature elements of Moser’s vaunted fume dials and leaf hands first, for connoisseur’s of Maximilian Busser, they’re recognise the highfalutin theatrics of mechanical art but nevertheless, in these trying times, the H. Moser × MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon is an emblem of friendship between two men against a backdrop of adversity and a triumph of shared values.

H. Moser × MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon shows that Solidarity is the bulwark in adversity

H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F are both independent Swiss watchmakers, each run by two passionate personalities and Edouard Meylan and Maximilian Büsser are delighted that this collaborative project has seen the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon exemplify two iconic schools of expertise and two distinct sets of DNA yet blended them together in a mutually enriching manner. Suffice it to say, the  H. Moser × MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon has achieved results far exceeding their expectations.

You have to remember that I only took over at H Moser seven years ago; this was after the collaboration began in terms of hairsprings. Max and I know each other for like 10 years, and when I took over at H Moser, he thought it was crazy because the watches were nice but a bit boring, and the company was bleeding money. He didn’t understand what I wanted to do with it. At that time, our brand was a bit dusty, and MB&F was flying high. It took awhile for us to get to that level, which we had to be at or we would have been overpowered by the MB&F brand identity. When the trust and respect got to the same level, then the time was right. Today, we are the biggest of the truly independent brands.  – CEO Edouard Meylan on why it took so long to collaborate

Again, for long time watch journalists, it is hard to say which takes the fore: is it the artistry which grabs the heart first? Or is it the nigh operatic ballet of the cylindrical tourbillon which quickens the pulse? Indeed, the tourbillon equipped with cylindrical balance spring is occasionally  practiced by the highest, most storied masters in Swiss watchmaking – associated with the likes of the watchmaker’s watchmaker.

The visual and geometric potency of a cylindrical balance spring…

Precision Engineering AG – a sister company of H. Moser & Cie, has for the last 10 years, provided MB&F’s balance springs. Hence, it is not altogether surprising (but still unexpected given the fierce rivalries in the industry), that the brands have chosen to deepen their mutual relationship in a co-signed H. Moser × MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon, creating a Performance Arts piece – the sophisticated elegance of a H. Moser and the three dimensional mechanical theatre of an MB&F, at its heart, the cylindrical balance spring.

Invented in the 18th century, the cylindrical balance spring is so named for the corkscrew construct – rising perpendicularly around the upper rod of the balance staff. Commonly used in historical marine chronometers, it offers the advantage of developing concentrically, and therefore geometrically, since it works perfectly along the axis of its pivots. This gives it a significant advantage over the flat balance spring, whose opposite ends tend to exert forces on the pivots, despite the Philips or Breguet terminal curves which were specifically developed to partially correct the non-concentric opening of the balance spring. Fitted with a Breguet overcoil at both attachment points, the cylindrical balance spring reduces pivot friction and greatly improves isochronism. Due to its specific shape, the cylindrical balance spring is far more difficult to produce and takes ten times longer to make than a traditional balance spring

Mixed Genes, Coherent Design: The visual flair of the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon

There was one risk with this watch and that is if clients ask “oh, is that an MB&F watch?” That is why it was important to have the logo. We decided on sapphire for the subdial to keep the emphasis on the mechanics, and maintain the minimalism that Moser is known for. Had we chosen a very crazy machine from MB&F rather the LM Flying T, it might have been too much; the same for MB&F, if (Max) had chosen the Swiss Alp watch. – Eduoard Meylan on why the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon bears the brand name unlike its usual references

Maximilian Büsser says: “When I called Edouard to tell him that I wanted to collaborate on a creation, I mentioned that I really liked the double balance – spring, the Moser fumé dials and the Concept watch series. Edouard immediately told me that he would let me borrow these features, but on condition that he could also reinterpret one of my machines. After an initial moment of surprise, I gave it some thought. Being 50% Indian and 50% Swiss, I am firmly convinced that mixing DNA creates interesting results, so why not try the experiment in watchmaking? I therefore agreed and suggested the FlyingT model, which is particularly dear to my heart.”

H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F have thus jointly created two models, available in several versions and issued in 15-piece limited series. This number is references the 15th anniversary of MB&F as well as honouring the 15th anniversary of the relaunch of H. Moser & Cie.

Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon Price & Specs

Movement Automatic HMC 810 three- dimensional Manufacture calibre with 72 hours power reserve
Case 42 mm stainless steel with 30 metres water resistance
Strap Leather
Price S$120,100

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