Tune in as we bring you Valentino UOMO from one of the fashion capitals of the world. Showcasing its men’s collection for Fall/Winter 2017, the runway will treat us to a slew of designs that are bound to captivate and entertain us. Tune in on January 19 at 12.30am (SGT) to catch the show live from Paris.
As far as the news cycle goes, Paris Fashion Week was overshadowed by the robbery involving Kim Kardashian and millions worth of jewelry. But that does not mean that the catwalks in the city delivered anything but the finest designs for the upcoming season. We take a look at five of the best runway trends from Paris Fashion Week.
The designers have brought the glitter to the catwalks in numerous ways. From the shiny vinyl fabrics that were used in jackets and skirts to tight 1980s-inspired off shoulder tops, Mugler and Kenzo brought some sparkle to their collections. Like Dior and Lanvin, Nicolas Ghesquiere used gold and silver gleam to provide a little rock-lux to the Louis Vuitton collection.
Transparency is the name of the game for many this season. Most designers included at least one or two see-through dresses or tops in their collections with a majority of the sheer black tops and “Belle de Jour” tulle dresses were worn without bras on the runway. However, Chanel was one brand that used underwear as outerwear through lingerie dresses that were seen through most of the collection. Over at Lanvin and Agnes b, their silky pajama suits proclaimed “It’s summer, why get dressed at all…”
In Bad Taste
Saint Laurent’s Vaccarello went flashy with stilettos that had the letters YSL forming the heels. The designer also went with mono-boob dresses for women who preferred to make an entrance — or maybe Lady Gaga. There was no shame at Dior with the brand showing off the slogan “J’adore Dior” on shoulder straps, straps of its sandals and belts. Chanel embraced some style secrets of rappers by pairing its baseball caps with chunky rapper bling diamond jewelry.
Return Of The Establishments
While the last few years have seen young rebel labels take over the runways, this fashion week has seen the likes of Dior, Saint Laurent, Lanvin and Leonard climb back to the top of the pile. While neither Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior nor Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent are revolutionaries, there is a edgy energy in their spring-summer collections that promises the old stagers could surprise us yet.
From Chanel to Valentino and Nina Ricci, pink hues proved to be another trend on the catwalks. Pale ivory pinks were dominant for lingerie dresses. Two toga dresses from Celine used the soft shade to cut the edgy oversized feel.
The Emmy Awards have delivered not only recognition to the best of US television but also a parade of fashionable stars that blew us away. The red carpet proved to be a colorful one with various hues that sent the camera flashes into overdrive. We take a look at the three trends that dominated the award show in California.
Bold In Red
The bright shade was seen on not one but three actresses this year. Tatiana Maslany scooped up the award for best actress in a drama, for her role in the cult favorite Orphan Black. The actress was dressed in a red Alexander Wang dress that featured cut-outs to show off just a hint of her midriff.
Another vision in red was Kate McKinnon, who proved that a simple crimson gown with a V-neckline could be glamorous. Apart from being one of the best dressed on the red carpet, she also took home the statuette for best supporting actress on the legendary comedy sketch show Saturday Night Live.
Rounding out the red parade at the Emmy’s was Priyanka Chopra who proved to be the picture of elegance in a pleated one-shoulder goddess gown by Jason Wu. While she did not receive any awards during the night, Chopra did entertain the shutter bugs with a twirl that showed off the full skirt.
No we are not talking about Beyonce’s anthem for all the jilted lovers out there. We are talking about the bright hue, usually called yellow, that has proven to be a surprise hit at award ceremonies. First up was Angela Basset, from the hit horror show American Horror Story, who wore a yellow kimono dress with a plunging neckline by Christian Siriano.
Channeling her alter ego on Empire was Taraji P. Henson in a figure-hugging canary gown by Vera Wang. Star of The Unbreakable Kimmy Schmidt, Ellie Kemper wore a belted yellow Jenny Packham column dress that contrasted her red hair, worn in a bob. British actress Minnie Driver, who will star in new ABC show Speechless this season, stunned in a yellow Versace gown with daring shoulder and waist cutouts — and a deep slit up the side.
Back in Black
It may seem like the safe choice for many but black proved to be a winner at the Emmy Awards. Sophie Turner of Game of Thrones stunned on the red carpet in a lacy black Valentino slip dress. Maura Tierney, a nominee for best supporting actress in a drama for her heart-wrenching turn as a woman wronged on Showtime’s The Affair, wore a strapless gown with a leaf pattern along the neckline and skirt from Siriano. Scandal star Kerry Washington, who is heavily pregnant, glowed in a strapless black gown from Brandon Maxwell that accentuated her baby bump.
Who says fashion exists in its own bubble? Designers and houses today are, more than ever, drawing inspiration and references from all over the world. Nowhere is this more apparent than in high fashion’s relationship with the East. The seductive Orient has long been a goldmine for decorative touches. Christian Dior’s love of the East led him to create a dress – in the beautiful New Look silhouette with its nipped waist and elaborate volume – covered in Japanese scribble lifted from an old print. The words? Something about bowel movements and a tummy ache. A funny yet telling example, if there were one, about the results of good intentions and unwitting execution.
Gladly, designers today have the luxury of research and the availability of a global world view (thank you, Google) that’s resulted in a more intelligent way of mining the East for inspiration – and it’s one that should be celebrated. The New York Metropolitan Museum of Art’s 2015 key exhibition, China: Through the Looking Glass, was a significant showcase of the East’s influences on fashion. What it achieved was a plain demonstration that China has had an aesthetic influence on virtually every high fashion designer. The “looking glass” element to the exhibition, however, should be a strong reminder that China and indeed the rest of Asia aren’t far-away oriental mysteries. Its relevance and influence almost demand that designers picking references do so with intelligent sensitivity rather than with reductive pastiche.
Japan in Paris
Two of the most important Japanese designers – Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto – have been in the business for upwards of 40 years, with starts in the 1970s and 1980s. It’s intriguing to assess their aesthetics and impact on the industry. We must remember that the two were so influential and notable in Paris fashion because of the contrariness of what they were showing. When Western – that is, Euro-centric – fashion built dresses around the glamorous, sexualised female body, Kawakubo and Yamamoto stormed in and offered inventive forms, silhouettes, cuts, and an insistent use of the colour black. Indeed, the Yamamoto brand has been revered for its masterful craftsmanship, protective embrace of the body, and an intelligence that builds a sense of safety for the wearer – clothes as the proverbial armour.
Kawakubo, too, gained fame for being unrelentingly herself. Comme des Garçons has become a model brand (pictured top) with its numerous offshoot lines – Junya Watanabe, Noir Kei Ninomiya and Ganryu are all by Kawakubo’s protégés – and the opinion-leading Dover Street Market stores. The underpinning artistic strength remains the Comme des Garçons mainline designed by Kawakubo herself, which has been unfailingly unique, daring and avant-garde.
Kenzo today represents upbeat accessibility thanks to creative directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon. The Opening Ceremony founders bring a commercial New York line of thought to the brand that keeps it in line with the founder’s original spirit. The man himself, Kenzo Takada, opened his boutique in Paris, named Jungle Jap, selling his bright and fun multicultural prints. One of the key pillars of Kenzo fashion is a sense of fun and youth. Soon, Kenzo will launch a collaborative collection with H&M, one in a series of special edition releases with the likes of brands like Lanvin, Maison Martin Margiela, Balmain, Isabel Marant and Karl Lagerfeld. Onward to the future, indeed.
Speaking of the future, one must never forget the Japanese brand that pushed technical and creative boundaries. Issey Miyake is important to fashion because of his loving embrace of technology and the brand’s explorations of the form and function of dress. Miyake’s earliest works were built around the Japanese kimono, deconstructing the traditional garment to get to the core of what makes foldable garments work. Toying with dimensionality, he developed a line of clothes that were softly sculptural. His famous heat-pressed pleating technique birthed the Pleats Please line, and the shaped yet draped silhouette has been unique since. In the FW16 collection, current creative director Yoshiyuki Miyamae pays respectful homage with garments constructed with pleating techniques that the brand calls “baked stretched” and “3D steam-stretched”. The brand remains, in its spirit, venturous in exploring the effect of technology on fabric and garment construction.
The highest echelons of fashion owe an aesthetic debt to Asia. The original greats from Paris such as Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Paul Poiret, Madeleine Vionnet and Coco Chanel took inspirations from various facets of chinoiserie and japonism. There’s an element of pastiche that can’t be disregarded, though one can chalk it down to the times. Yves Saint Laurent paid tribute, in the 1970s, to cheongsam and qipao silhouettes, topped with hats and jackets inspired by imperial Chinese dress. In Tom Ford’s final collection for the house in the fall of 2004, such looks were amplified to highlight sensuality and sexual boldness. The figure-hugging and high-slit clothes demonstrated Ford’s high-octane sex-sells mentality and his ability to subvert traditional dress forms to suit the times.
Coco Chanel was a famously enamored collector of lacquered coromandel screens from China, and decorated her home and offices in Rue Cambon with more than 30 of them. Karl Lagerfeld’s collections have built on the obsession, most notably with a 2009 Métiers d’Art show in Shanghai that played to his strength of combining the heritage of Chanel with the needs of modern women. The result: a modern Chinese attitude worn with the insouciant bouclé skirt suits of the house. Lagerfeld then took a journey to India in the Paris-Bombay Métiers d’Art 2012 show: traditional Indian dress styles such as salwar trousers (voluminous pants which taper sharply near the ankles) and kurti (long, tunic-length blouses) got paired with Chanel’s iconic pearls and tweeds. When it comes to making references, Lagerfeld is a master; there’s an ease to the mix that belies deep research and finesse in construction.
John Galliano furthered Dior’s love of the Orient when he was designing for the house with the famously splendid SS07 and SS09 haute couture shows. Spring of 2007 saw modern geishas in chartreuse-, lavender- and rose-hued Bar silhouettes cut in silk-taffeta with an origami-style twist. In 2009, the ubiquitous willow pattern on Chinese ceramics sneaked under the linings, on the insides, and around the outsides of the dresses – a delicacy to the clothes lent by invoking a key product of trade that China has shared with the West for centuries.
Modern couturiers play a more nuanced game of reference-picking. Consider Valentino’s Spring 2016 haute couture showing. The silhouettes and thrust of the look was the otherworldly and ultra-feminine signature that Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have become acclaimed for. Kimono-style coats and robes with hand-painted carps and dragons draw from the mythological wellspring of the East. This followed the visual story in the brand’s Pre-Fall 2016 collection which featured hand-painted and intarsia-ed dragons and swallows, pyjamas with brocaded swans, and shift dresses with genteel 10th-century bird-and-flower paintings.
In Gucci’s FW16 collection, Alessandro Michele sent a dizzying number of 70 looks down his runway. The Michele method is to create for a variety of women – different characters daring to partake of and play in dress-up characterisation. Two Asian-informed looks strolled down the runway: the first, a minidress with an Italian sun motif and a Mao collar; the second, a floor-length qipao with pink fur trim on the sleeves and an embroidered phoenix pattern.
At Louis Vuitton and Kenzo, the brands looked towards a cartoon idealisation of women. Nicolas Ghesquière has one of the best knacks in the industry for tapping into youthful energy and giving it a sophisticated turn. Recall Spring 2016’s advertising campaign: the virtual avatar of Lightning (one of the lead characters in the Final Fantasy games) swings around a bag, strikes poses and looks airbrushed to perfection. It is worth noting that the Lightning character in the games is a combatant – the strongest playable character, even. This is reflected in the clothes, too: the urban-heroine sensibility is carried into FW16’s exaggerated silhouettes, emphasis on heavy boots, panelled bodysuits and armour-like leather bustiers. At Kenzo, the train of thought was Sailor Moon, beloved ’90s shōjo icon of female liberation and strength. It took the spirit of confidence and quintessential femininity, and translated it into an abundance of empire waistlines and deconstructed duffel coats with a smattering of reworked archival iris, dandelion and tiger prints (Kenzo is known for its print work).
On a more technical front, we look back to Raf Simons’ debut haute couture collection for Dior in the Fall 2012 season. The collection saw Simons impose abstract Sterling Ruby prints onto coats and dresses using an Indonesian technique seen through a French eye. The original technique ikat is an early form of warp printing. Warp printing involves dyeing the fabric on the yarn before it is woven, as opposed to traditional methods in which a print is stamped onto a finished yard of fabric. The resulting print is warbly and far from sharp, and – to quote Mr Simons – “has the quality of a brush stroke”. In the 18th century, this was the same quality that led to the French creation of Chiné a la Branche, a variation on the ikat print technique that produced small, watercolor-esque floral prints on silk taffeta fabrics that found favour and fashion on the backs of Marie Antoinette and her contemporaries.
Today, what Asia represents for luxury and high fashion is fertile ground for growth and exploration. The massive Chinese economy offers opportunities for growth with a huge consumer base longing for the prestige and sheen of luxury. What fashion designers have to remember, then, is to pay their audiences back with the beauty they’ve borrowed.
This article was first published in L’Officiel Singapore.
The new season will soon be upon us and it is time to start thinking of another wardrobe update. Straight from the runways around the world, we explore the five trends that are set to be big for women’s fashion this fall. For fall/winter, the brands brought out designs such as long-length pieces with various finishes.
The pleated skirt this summer has paved the way for pleats to be worked into long and short skirts, dresses and tops. From Maison Margiela to Diesel Black Gold, Valentino and Bottega Veneta the trend was used in various forms to highlight a sensual vibe in the designs. Over at Issey Miyake, the brand showcased two new technical procedures that boosted the fluidity of movement, creating an array of optical illusions.
Spotlight on shoulders
The shoulders are the stars of the season, in case the off-shoulder summer trend has not given you a better hint. From asymmetrical tops and dresses to cuts that leave the shoulders entirely bare, fashion houses such as Christian Dior, Elie Saab, Mugler, Anthony Vaccarello, Ermanni Scervino and Alexander McQueen are leading the way. Other designers chose to keep shoulders covered but structured in designs that exaggerated the eighties styles such as Saint Laurent and Jacquemus.
Silky soft fur
Where some brands are steering clear of fur, others chose to showcase the material in various colors this season. From brightly colored, autumnal and sophisticated white, fur was a favorite for several designers. Labels such as Moncler Gamme Rouge featured it on collars, coats, skirts and even hats making it the pride and joy of the collection. At Paul & Joe as well as Valentino, fur was seen in multi-colored pastel shades while Saint Laurent saw the material in bright red. Over at Chloé, fur was featured in electric blue while Fendi simply embraced fur in its designs as always.
Sheer, floaty fabrics
The springtime vibe was seen in dresses that were lighter and floatier, becoming almost transparent. This season’s gowns are a simple veil, with super-fine fabrics, sheers, embroidery and netting hinting at the female form for a sensual rather than sexy effect. This trend was seen at Sonia Rykiel, Giambattista Valli, Valentino, Andrew GN, Chalayan, Dolce & Gabbana and Alexander Wang. The season’s hottest look sees a very lightweight dress worn with a long, heavy coat.
Prints go wild
They never really left the building so it is no surprise that prints will be back in a big way this season. They’ll be seen in touches here and there, like Kenzo’s tiger-print collars, as well as in full-on animal-print ensembles. In the fashion jungle, Sonia Rykiel opted for python print, Givenchy mixed python and panther motifs, and Dior went for leopard. Blumarine brought animal-print to accessories, along with Roberto Cavalli.
Italian fashion label Valentino is forging ahead with expansion plans. In collaboration with British architect David Chipperfield and Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli, meet the label’s new Omotesando flagship boutique in Aoyama, Tokyo. In commemoration of the new opening, the windows of Valentino stores will come to life worldwide with a special window installation.
A 300-piece limited edition tote bag will also be available for sale. Priced at 112 euros, 100% of all sales will be donated to the Kumamoto Earthquake relief, in aid towards the victims of the April 2016 Kumamoto Earthquake.
Read more about the Flagship boutique at Men’s Folio Singapore.
You know the drill: with the bi-annual Haute Couture Week over and leaving us wanting more, we have no choice but to reflect on the season’s trends while we wait another arduous six months for its next iteration. From Chanel to Giorgio Armani Prive, we round up the top three Fall 2016 trends that caught our eyes in the midst of all the glitz and glamour.
How low can you go? It was all about maximum impact across the board, with V-necks dipping all the way to the waist at Elie Saab, and Armani Prive opting for a more modest take with covered legs and necks. Nevertheless, it was all attention seeking and bold; wallflowers need not apply.
Haute couture is not an industry to shy from flights of fancy – literally. Feathers abounded in Valentino’s sumptuous maxi skirt, while Chanel sported pink plumage from the shoulders and cape. It was a very feminine and dramatic affair, but if haute couture isn’t all about grandeur and glamour, then what is?
Forget statement coats, meet statement dresses. An amalgamation of military influences and billowing skirts, Ralph & Russo tapped on the trend with a bright yellow contribution. Alexandre Vauthier, on the other hand, manipulated silky trenches with structured shoulders and pleats, spinning the typically feminine creations into rebellious gowns of military flavor.
It has been decreed that in the wake of previous co-Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri’s departure, Pierpaolo Piccioli will helm Valentino as its only Creative Director. (If you recall, Maria Grazia Chiuri has been reported to adopt Raf Simon’s old position as Creative Director of Dior.) This comes as a little piece of sad news, for both have been partners for 17 years together.
Nevertheless, both possess a “reciprocal desire of further great achievements”, and we can only do the same.
Read more on Men’s Folio Singapore.
From androgynous dress suits in floral prints to saccharine-sweet pastels and kitsch sensuality, the trends for Pre-Fall 2016 are pretty diverse, so there’s something for everyone. Here, our friends at L’Officiel Singapore have done the research for you to bring you 18 looks you should sport for the transitional season.
When it comes to suiting now, bolder is better. Give your classic navy and black suits a rest and look to versions in daring prints and opulent fabrics – think Bottega Veneta’s mismatched tailoring or Givenchy’s flower-embellished stunner punked up with studded boots.
Military gets a cool downtown vibe with Alexander Wang’s introduction of grunge elements – beanies, chains and opaque tights – and unexpectedly ladylike accents in the form of velvet heels.
A clever take on layering by the design team at Dior, with a gently curved olive coat shrugged over another coat in rich brown fur. A lace-trimmed slip and sparkly flats lends ease and lightness to the look.
Shearling continues to be a giant trend for Pre-Fall, turning up as cool outerwear at brands as diverse as Coach, Paco Rabanne and Stella McCartney. Christopher Bailey showed an oversized one at Burberry, which he paired with sleek flares and a boyish rucksack.
Shearling’s more luxurious cousin is also having its moment in the sun, but these furs are not your grandmother’s dowdy ones. Pre-Fall’s best shaggy pieces come in fabulous hues and patterns like those on Marni’s graphic check fur stole, Valentino’s ombre fur robe and Fendi’s floral explosion.
Considering the fact that most Pre-Fall collections hit shop floors at the height of summer, it makes sense to drench them in sweet, uplifting shades. Giorgio Armani showed tiered dresses in washed-out blues, Sportmax proposed pale lemon for our outerwear, while Michael Kors had us thinking pink.
Boy-meets-girl is a trope fashion loves to reinterpret. This season’s offerings include Jason Wu’s jackets that were sculpted for a feminine silhouette, butterfly and lipstick prints on an Alexander McQueen pantsuit, and Prince-of-Wales tailoring at Versace shot through with baby blue and worn with a tiny skirt.
Who says that sequins should only come out when the sun goes down? When styled with the right pieces, metallics make a wonderful daytime statement too. Case in point: Phillip Lim’s gold wide pants, worn with a silk shirt, and Emilio Pucci’s sequined shirt, paired with a breezy skirt and a sandal-sock combo.
The pleated midi skirt is fashion’s favourite skirt shape of the moment and no one does it better than Alessandro Michele. This season he rendered it in high-impact silver worn with an equally shiny pink bomber. Elsewhere, Michael Kors, Giorgio Armani and Max Mara also offered beautiful options of the pleated midi.
The current-season way to pull off ethnic influences can be seen in the collections of Alexander McQueen and Altuzarra. The key is to go for a sharper, more fitted silhouette; the end look needs to come off sleek and polished instead of billowy and bohemian.
Where Miuccia Prada goes, others are sure to follow. After last season’s enchanting tulle layers at Miu Miu, the gauzy fabric is shaping up to be a key layering element. Molly Goddard has built a name with her joyful tulle creations, while Stella McCartney presented a womanly version worn over trousers and a bustier.
TIE DYE TWIST
Designers are reinventing tie-dye with a luxe spin, moving it farther away from hippie-dippy and muddy music-fest connotations. Our favourite version is from Valentino, where the saturation is amped way up and cut into a modern anorak, juxtaposed with a smart shirt and thigh-highs.
The youthful charm of the ’60s look has always endured – who can resist the appeal of a little skirt, a fitted jumper and a flattering peacoat? The best looks aren’t faithful reproductions, though; we love Pablo Coppola’s take at Bally where the coat is cut ultra-sharp in bright red and the skirt comes in glossy leather.
The ’70s is another decade that fashion keeps returning to, but no one makes a more convincing case than Hedi Slimane. At Saint Laurent, he conjured up the bohemian glamour of Loulou de la Falaise with his swishing culottes and midi skirts, all topped with silken blouses and showstopping cloaks and capes.
NAUGHTY & NICE
Fashion loves a good clash of contrasting ideas and this season, designers are riffing on the themes of naughty and nice. Bally has a sharply tailored trench in glossy, fetishistic patent; Alexander Wang put fishnet tights under prim skirts and Karl Lagerfeld invoked Italian screen sirens wearing leather and lace with tweeds and pearls.
Athleticism in fashion is here to stay but the most talented, innovative designers are constantly finding new ways to elevate and marry it with high fashion. J.W. Anderson, for example, created bold new things from the idea of nylon and tracksuits, while Julien Dossena at Paco Rabanne cleverly mixed zippers and mesh with lush materials for an effortless but luxurious take.
The grandly exaggerated Edwardian shoulder continues to get more play for Pre-Fall. It showed up with retro inflections at Gucci, while at 3.1 Phillip Lim and J.W. Anderson, it was deconstructed and updated for today’s cool girls. But the most interesting mash-up was at Louis Vuitton where Nicolas Ghesquière paired sculpted shoulders with motorcross leggings and edgy, chunky boots.
This wardrobe staple has been given a fancy upgrade for Pre-Fall. At Carven, it was mixed with shearling and shown as a total-look statement. Julie de Libran also showed denim-on-denim at Sonia Rykiel but her looks were embroidered while Massimo Giorgetti’s Pucci pieces were printed with feathers. The most whimsical were Valentino’s versions, which bore elaborate scenes and dreamscapes.
Anything can happen in the world of fashion and often does. In what seems like a big shake-up in the industry, Dior announces its first ever female artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri, who was previously from Valentino.
Chiuri, known for her romantic, intricate designs at Valentino, will leave the Italian House and her longtime creative partner Pierpaolo Picciolo, whom she’s worked with since 2008. She will not only fill the vacancy left by Raf Simons since his departure last October, but will also join an esteemed league of designers the likes of Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferre and John Galliano, who previously helmed the label.
Meanwhile, Swiss design duo Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux, who have been holding the fort, will likely move to Dior’s haute couture department, with their debut couture collection showing in Paris on July 4.
The LVMH-owned couture house has reportedly seen a four percent drop in growth in the last quarter, while its turnover is also down by one percent to (EURO)1.39 billion, and the brand is hopeful Chiuri can improve the situation. To be fair though, the overall macro-economic situation is likely to blame and the ripples from Brexit (still a possibility at the time of this announcement) will certainly not help.
Ah the red carpet and the beautiful women, designer gowns and gems worth millions drawn to it. It takes some time to sift through the images and galleries to find the trends that we know you love but someone has to do it.
We covered the yellow trend starting strong on opening night and you would be forgiven for overlooking several other trends. As the festival continued, the designers sent their best designs out and we were treated to more trends. We take a look at the four trends you may have missed.
Best Foot Forward
You could call Angelina Jolie the pioneer of leg flashers since she did bring this trend back in vogue at the Oscars in 2013. Three years on and it is far from over. In fact, if Bella Hadid’s dress is any indication, the slits just keep getting higher… Of course, these are models we speak of so naturally they really do have some of the best gams in the world. Just like those slits, where they end no one knows…
Belle of the Ball
We fell in love with several of these dresses that would have been a young girl’s fantasy. From Blake Lively in her Cinderella-esque gown to Elle Fanning who looked whimsical, the fairy-tale princesses made the red carpet their own and the pictures didn’t disappoint.
The Naked Dress
There are nude colored dresses and then there are the naked dresses. As risky to wear as the thigh-high slits, this requires a certain amount of bravado —and the confidence to go commando — to pull off. While some chose to use strategically placed panels to pull off this look, others went all out.
This one made us wonder if Barney Stinson decided to switch professions and dress Hollywood for a change. This look proved to be more controversial than the high slits or the naked dress. With a strict rule in place for all, the stars were expected to turn up in black tie appropriate attire and some of the ladies decided to walk the path less traveled. Forgoing the heavy gowns, Susan Sarandon and Victoria Beckham led the way in standing the dress code on its head with their pantsuits. While we think they looked just as elegant on the red carpet as anyone in a frock this year, if you take a look at the background, you’ll see why this generally is not a great idea. On that note, yes even the photographers at these events follow the dress code.
Another one is out the door. Tod’s announced Friday that Alessandra Facchinetti will be leaving the brand. After three years of leading the team behind the Women’s Collections, the former Creative Director has decided to pack her bags and concentrate on endeavours that had been set aside “to be able to achieve Tod’s strategies.”
The former creative director of Valentino and Gucci also counts Miu Miu and Moncler as former employers. She joined the brand in 2013, replacing Derek Lam and leaves the company on good terms. Alessandra Facchinetti stated: “I will now focus on other projects that I have put aside in order to be able to achieve Tod’s strategies. It has been an honor to work with this extraordinary family company which puts quality, craftsmanship and excellency at the center of its business and I am grateful to Tod’s and especially to Diego and Andrea Della Valle, who have given me outstanding support and who will remain dear friends.”
In a statement released by Tod’s, Diego Della Valle, Chairman and CEO of the Group said ““I would like to thank Alessandra for her contribution to Tod’s. We wanted to develop the Italian Style as well as a strong point of view in fashion, presenting a show not to be missed in Milan and we have reached these objectives. I have given much consideration to this decision; we came to this conclusion after a thoughtful conversation and I wish Alessandra all the best for her future endeavors.”
Sould Facchinetti be on the hunt for a job, we hear that several major labels are keeping their eyes peeled for talented creative directors.
Nine days, 90 major runway shows for Fall/Winter and a boatload of designs later, Paris Fashion Week has finally come to a close. While we would love to relive each show and share the collections with you, it would be impossible and quite honestly exhausting. In place of that, we have come up with an alternative that still keeps you in the loop. Here are the five memorable looks from Paris fashion week.
We saw the decade make an appearance at Saint Laurent. Hedi Slimane didn’t hold back at the Maison’s show with the shoulder pads, big belts, bows and earrings. He even threw in a few mini-skirts that seemed to travel their way through time to be there. Other designers influenced by the ‘80s glamour, were Kenzo, Lanvin, Maison Margiela and Giambattista Valli.
From bikers to cowgirls and Indian braves, the runways were filled with the “no-nonsense” woman. Brands such as Louis Vuttion and Loewe featured black leather bustiers; Vuttion even paired it with skinhead and dominatrix boots for a tough-as-nails look. The armored look didn’t merely encompass the bustiers but even extended to toughened up tutus by Valentino.
The gothic Victorian look had a spot in the limelight amidst the aggressive glamour. With a twist on the 19th century coats and suits, it’s not difficult to imagine the liberated gentlewoman wrapping herself in pieces from Lemaire, Veronique Branquinho and Stella McCartney.
High boots are definitely in. Males excited by this may like to know they are indeed for walking all over you. From thigh-high Puss in Boots to skinny, cavalier, lusciously soft suede, riding boots and S&M, they were everywhere. Balmain, Rick Owens, Ungaro, Barbara Bui, Wanda Nylon, Masha Ma and Luis Buchinho built much of their looks around them.
Shine Bright like a Diamond
Paris has a new sheen again and it is not just from all the leather. From the first day when Anrealage debuted its symphony of space age grey, to Dries Van Noten’s deliciously judicious use of gold lame to Saint Laurent’s flashy uptown girls, the catwalks have gleamed with shiny fabrics and surfaces. It reached a pinnacle in Haider Ackermann’s jewel-toned glitter ball of hard-edged glamour.
Paris Fashion Week is the season when the hottest models tread the Paris runways for the biggest ready-to-wear labels. With the shows running through the first nine days of March, savvy fans can sneak a peek behind the scenes by following the current trending models on Instagram. We take a look at who to follow, to catch a glimpse backstage at the upcoming shows:
The Hadid Sisters, Gigi and Bella, both post actively on Instagram and are sure to share the backstage happenings (except at shows that ban social media, possibly). Last season Gigi Hadid took to the catwalk for Giambattista Valli, Elie Saab, Balmain, Versace and Anna Sui, while Bella modeled for Balmain. Both are bound to treat their followers with their upcoming stints in Paris.
Mica Arganaraz’s account is unverified by Instagram — for now. The Argentinian model was picked by Karl Lagerfield to open and close for the last Chanel haute-couture show. With the discerning designer’s approval, and her appearance as the face of Chanel’s Spring/Summer 2016 Campaign, Arganaraz promises a strong gain in followers during the Fashion Week itself. Last season she appeared for Miu Miu, Louis Vuitton, Valentino, Sacai, Mugler, Loewe, Balenciaga, Isabel Marant, Dior and Haider Ackermann.
Lily Donaldson has quite the presence online, despite being less active on social networks. Nevertheless, she’s certain to be booked. This British model may take the runway for Balmain, Elie Saab or Mugler.
Jourdan Dunn is another British model to follow, especially for aspiring Fashionistas. Though she didn’t appear much last year in Paris, sticking mostly with Balmain, she could come back to surprise us this time. With over 1.6 million followers, fans can expect a few backstage snaps during the shows.
We can’t end a list like this without the Instagirl herself, Kendall Jenner. She needs no introduction, but the famous brunette can definitely be expected to document her catwalk shows photo-wise on the social media site. She’s tipped to star in Balmain and Chanel catwalk shows, but could also appear for labels like Elie Saab or Givenchy.
If big risks and classical gowns are what you seek in haute couture, Valentino and Viktor & Rolf did not disappoint last week on the Paris runways. We were reminded of the vision of the Dutch duo January 31 as police confirmed that they had recovered a stolen Picasso in Istanbul; the Viktor & Rolf show looked like a tribute to Cubism, or perhaps their impression of what Theo van Doesburg would have sent down the runway if he had been a fashion designer. First of all though, we must credit Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli for providing the haute couture fashion week this spring with a proper standard bearer and point of reference. The house of Valentino provided a fashionable history of art lesson in Paris on Wednesday night last week, as it showcased its Spring 2016 haute couture collection.
Under the creative direction of designers Chiuri and Piccioli, the Italian label whipped up a classical collection of show-stopping gowns that felt both timeless and modern. Perhaps they imagined themselves collaborating with Gustav Klimt when creating this collection.
Featuring floor-skimming, off-the-shoulder Grecian robes creased into sharp pleats and swishy velvet columns decorated with ornate bronze harnesses, the result was a demure yet worldly aesthetic rooted in technicality and expertise. Structures were fluid without being overly loose and the color palette offered up an opulent combination of rich creams, deep olive greens and resplendent burgundies.
Semi-sheer chiffons, plunging necklines and beaded kaftans worn with nothing underneath meant that there was plenty of skin on show, and yet the overall effect was one of highly serene virtuousness.
Art, as ever, was also the starting point for the Dutch pioneers Viktor & Rolf, whose all white collection was an exercise in Cubism. The design duo’s work has always been guaranteed to spark debate, and their towering sculptural dresses composed of distorted 3D facial features and gigantic ruffles bore more than a passing resemblance to the works of Albert Gleizes and Picasso.
In many cases the models were mere vehicles used to exhibit the pieces, their faces completely hidden behind the colossal façades of the designs. Simple black ankle boots allowed the construction to do the talking.
Hollywood’s top stars were armored in glamour January 10 as they dazzled the Golden Globes red carpet with lots of attitude. Guess who rocked the necklace shown above? Anyway, we saw plenty to admire in terms of strapless wonders (Emmy Rossum in Armani with a Van Cleef & Arpels necklace, who has already won the Internet), amazing jewelry (Jennifer Lawrence, Jennifer Lopez and Julianne Moore are in a three-way tie for the win), unbeatable accessories that cannot be bought (mostly abs courtesy of Brie Larson and Kate Hudson, and Moore’s escort, Tom Ford) and properly impressive gowns (Lady Gaga, Jenna Dewan Tatum and Rooney Mara).
Here are our selections, with images via the AFP and Chopard (we are still waiting for a suitable image of Rossum), of the best-in-show for 2016. We shall see if any of these looks will make into the “Best-Of” lists for 2016…
Kate Bosworth shone at this 73rd ceremony in a pink-and-silver sequinned number from Dolce & Gabbana.
Emilia Clarke – The Game of Thrones actress channeled her fictional alter-ego with this vampy black floor-length gown and sheer-cape combo from Valentino.
Lady Gaga – The American singer channeled retro chic on the red carpet at this year’s Golden Globes, with a long gown by Atelier Versace falling perfectly across her shoulders.
Kate Hudson – Here is where a fitness regime really pays off. Hudson showed off her washboard abs in a glitzy nude ensemble by Michael Kors Collection. Aside from her abs, which is really what this look is about, the choker brings the whole thing together and is also from Michael Kors.
Jennifer Lawrence – The scintillating Chopard necklace amplifies the J-Law’s Joy. At this year’s ceremony, she shone in a magnificent, red Christian Dior Couture gown with perfectly placed cutaways.
Jennifer Lopez – The diva Latina wowed the red carpet in a flowing canary-yellow gown by Giambattista Valli Haute Couture. Apparently, that lovely necklace is by none other than Harry Winston. Oh yes and we love how the guy in the background seems so concerned about J-Lo’s train…
Rooney Mara – The American actress took to the red carpet in a beaded, floor-length number from Alexander McQueen, in a nude hue almost matching her skin tone.
Julianne Moore – With nothing to envy of her up-and-coming counterparts, Moore sparkled on the red carpet in this midnight-blue sequin-covered number by Tom Ford, with jewelry by Chopard. She was also accompanied by Ford himself, which gives her possibly the best arm candy at the show.
Jada Pinkett Smith – With subtly revealed shoulders and a thigh-high split showing matching heels, Will Smith’s other half looked stunning in an emerald-green number by Atelier Versace.
Jenna Dewan Tatum – Channing Tatum’s actress wife stunned the crowds at the 73rd Golden Globes in a Zuhair Murad Couture midnight-blue ball gown with delicate silver detail.
Alicia Vikander – The Swedish actress looked ethereal in this delicate white dress from Louis Vuitton, proving that ruffles can be worn properly after all.
Kate Winslet – The British actress, winner of “Best Supporting Actress” for her role in Steve Jobs, kept things simple but stylish in a long Ralph Lauren Collection gown with a subtle split.
Joining the trend of online ventures going brick-and-mortar is celebrity lifestyle brand Goop. After conducting practice runs in Los Angeles, Dallas and Chicago, Gwyneth Paltrow will be opening her first pop-up boutique for Goop in New York starting next week.
On Monday, November 23, Paltrow will open a brick and mortar shop for her online lifestyle concept at the Time Warner Center in New York, which will showcase a capsule collection in collaboration with Valentino, reports women’s trade publication WWD.
The Valentino x Goop “Wonder Woman Valentino” collection is overseen by the fashion label’s creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli.
Also collaborating on the project is Roman street artist Solo, who often depicts comic book characters in his street art.
Shoppers at the New York Goop Mrkt can expect to find luxury items at luxury prices, like a leather jacket emblazoned with a falcon motif for US$6,950 and a tulle dress bearing the same motif for US$8,900.
Other brands stocked at the shop will include Nili Lotan, Carven, Stella McCartney, Kjaer Weis, Juice Beauty and Staub.
The pop-up runs November 23 to December 24.
Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson starred in VALENTINO‘s fall 2015 fashion show in Paris yesterday to confirm that “Zoolander 2” is happening.
The duo put on their best surly, pouty faces to close the show for Valentino during Paris Fashion Week, bringing guests to their feet and smartphones in the air.
The stars are now heading to Rome, where the movie will begin shooting soon. “Zoolander 2” will be released on Feb. 12, 2016.
Watch “Zoolander” snatch a smartphone from a front-row guest and record a selfie as he pouts into the camera in a video uploaded by @tinaleung.
VALENTINO created a series of colorful ‘1973’ pieces as part of its Spring 2015 collection with striking geometric prints and patterns.
The ever popular Rockstuds, lockbag and Va-va-voom bags are reinterpreted in a kaleidoscopic pattern, giving these edgy styles a boost of color and fresh feel for the new season!