Around the office, my sartorial ensemble tends to comprise of a collection of garments, jackets, blazers and suit separates that one can easily spot has English and Milanese sensibilities. That said, it doesn’t mean that a classic gent can’t enjoy a fashion show (or ten). Having digested (almost) the entirety of Milan Men’s Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018, I am ready to share my regular round-up classic gent’s key fashion takeaways.
A Classic Gent’s Key Fashion Takeaways from Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018
1. Sartori’s creative leadership of Ermenegildo Zegna introduces Slim Double Breasted Suits to Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018
For Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018 Ermenegildo Zegna creative director Alessandro Sartori took inspiration from Oasi Zegna, the Alpine nature reserve near Zegna’s headquarters. It was delightful colour palette of natural tones and vibrant hues from all manner of life and nature including treescapes from Zegna’s neighbouring alps. While a major highlight of Ermenegildo Zegna Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018 collection were sports coats and top coats in double-faced Oasi cashmere, a new fabric coloured with chemical-free, all natural dyes, the other highlight was the introduction of slim double breasted suits. More importantly, Zegna is definitely the leading men’s haberdasher when it comes to suits of the sporting variety.
2. Dolce & Gabbana defines Flamboyant Evening Wear for Milan FW 2018
If one considers that suiting and tailoring are really the less formal offshoots of heritage military uniforms in the Royal armies, than Dolce & Gabbana’s more than flamboyant take on evening wear is merely respectful homage to the ancestor of the modern gentleman’s classic suit. Gold brocade tailcoats and jacquard tuxedos, and other assorted, embroidered dinner jackets and robes paired with tone (in terms of the casual-formal spectrum) contrasting graphic tees and shearling coats make this one of the more exciting collections for Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018. Not one for the sartorially safe though.
3. Giorgio Armani is proof that classic suiting can be trendy
In tailored suiting, there’s not a lot of wiggle room on Savile Row but Giorgio Armani’s Milan Men’s FW 2018 proves exception to the rule of classic menswear. Blue suits with defined shoulders (not approaching English-silhouettes) were cut slim in eight-button, notch-lapel, double-breasted styles. Even when deconstructed in cashmere, Giorgio Armani pulled off the impossible, elegance rather than merely something fashionable, especially when paired with textured leather or exotic skin holdalls. A line of velvet evening suits in blue, black, and green, nothing approaching Dolce & Gabbana levels of pomp but not less splendorous with satin-fronted notch/shawl hybrid collars doubling as built-in cravats.
4. You can trust Prada with fresh takes on classic hits
Industrial-grade “Pocone” nylon, formerly a material reserved for packaging in the luxury industry but with which Prada turned into an fabric statement is back with a vengeance for Milan Men’s Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018. Prada interprets the material in a collection rife with Prada’s classic hits – padded workwear jackets, shirts and shorts and even brand staples crafted from iconic prints and textiles. ID tags featuring Prada logos and Polaroid head shots accessorising the catwalk ensemble telegraphed a statement that Prada has returned en-vogue and en-masse.
5. For Milan Men’s Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018, Tod’s proves they know fashion
Andrea Incontri, the men’s Creative Director for Tod’s conceived an elegant yet practical ensemble for Milan Men’s Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018. Tod’s made its name with its high-quality leather and for this show, they showed their mettle by innovating a waterproof and printed raw denim version of it while adding two more textiles to the brand’s arsenal – wool and moleskin Suits were presented by Tod’s Milan Men’s FW 2018 was dominated by outerwear.
6. Kris Van Assche takes Christian Dior FW 40s and 50s vision and re-interprets them for Dior Homme
For Milan Men’s FW 2018, channelled teen spirit and 90s clubbing culture of Tees over jumpers, masculine power was projected with the two-piece suit. Streetwear is in a bit of a baggy and loose phase, Van Assche is taking Dior Homme in the other direction: more body conscious. Christian Dior FW 2018 is about the 90s cool kids who are all grown up, wearing suits, carrying the briefcases.
7. Paul Smith brings back high button jackets for Milan Men’s FW 2018
Three jacket shapes were on show for Paul Smith Milan Men’s Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018; a high, four-button, double-breasted, and a single- and double-buttoned single-breasted. There was a genuine love for suits on display and desire to wear it in almost every facet of life.
8. Versace vibed the 70s hard (maybe too hard)
We are still not quite sure what to make of it but we loved the bold prints and Versace motifs. That said, it’s not something everyone can pull off. Rock Versace Men’s FW 2018 with caution.
9. If Versace was Eggsy pre-Kingsmen, Dsquared2 is Statesmen on steroids
Dean and Dan Caten was all about the Western for Dsquared2 Milan Men’s Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018. buffalo-check Western jackets, rhinestone-set shirting, OTT belt buckles, rodeo gear: silk printed Western shirts, rhinestone jackets, and sequined sleeve inserts – yeeehaw pardner.
10. We learnt Fendi made luggage back in the day
Accompanied by a mix of new Rimowa and vintage Fendi luggage, Milan Men’s Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018 accessories, and the occasional oversize statement piece, the Fendi show was a collection of logo fur tops, shearlings, and transparent overcoats. Also, it looked like someone lost a baby during the show.
Bonus Classic Gent’s takeaway for Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018: If Fendi can’t make those head umbrellas “work”, nobody can.