Tag Archives: Dior

Dior cruise collection 2018: Maria Grazia Chiuri went Western in Calabasas, Los Angeles

The couture house’s 2018 cruise collection presentation saw around 800 guests decamping to a remote reserve on the edge of the upscale suburb of Calabasas, home to Jennifer Lopez, the Kardashian-Jenners and much of Hollywood’s A-list. Around 50 models showcased a wardrobe with a music festival vibe inspired by Lascaux cave paintings, painter Georgia O’Keeffe and feminist shamanic healer Vicki Noble, with plenty of pleated skirts and bolero hats on show.

The remote location for the runway show was chosen by Italian fashion designer and Dior creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri, who was lured from Valentino in July last year to become Dior‘s first female creative director of women’s haute couture and accessories. As the company celebrates its 70th anniversary, Chiuri has been introducing a more modern, rock ‘n’ roll look to the house’s fashion offering, exemplified by her $710 “We Should All Be Feminists” t-shirt inspired by Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie’s essay and TEDx talk of the same name.

With the Cruise 2018 collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri takes us onto new ground, where more natural and wild inspirations are the order of the day. As a result, the French fashion house stands out from its usual style with a collection that’s more laid-back — still chic, but also with a wild side.

Femininity once again takes centre stage, but here, Maria Grazia Chiuri takes it in a new direction, with a more instinctive feel than ever before. In terms of pieces, the collection notably features midi dresses with square necklines, sometimes skinny straps and sheer effects, and motifs and embroidery details — a silhouette that’s gradually becoming the designer’s signature at Dior. Western vibes are channelled with lots of fringing, as well as leather pieces, boots and revisited ponchos. Bolero hats also replace the previous show’s berets.

Makeup was perfectly in keeping with the collection’s untamed theme, with skin treated to a sun-kissed glow and carefully crafted radiance, complemented by a subtle hint of eye makeup. There were no bright colors in sight on lips, where subtle, almost nude shades ruled the runway. Hair also channeled wild inspirations with natural styles and lightly tousled waves creating a “done” but undone look encompassing freedom.

Christian Dior in 1947 came to Los Angeles, only two years after the war, to show his collection. So we decided on the anniversary to come back,” Chiuri told AFP. “Normally when you think about LA, the first thing is celebrities, Hollywood, red carpets but I think there is another aspect, the natural aspect — open spaces. Many people love this place — also Mr Dior — because California is in some ways a paradise.”

The meadows there were used from the 1920s to 1950s for filming Westerns and other movies, including “Gone with the Wind” (1939), “They Died with Their Boots On” (1941) and “Adventures of Don Juan” (1948).

“I think it was beautiful. It was really inspiring and it felt rich with culture and texture and somewhat other-worldliness,” said Oscar-winning South African actress Theron, 41, who currently stars in high-octane car movie “The Fate of the Furious.”

“It was really beautiful yet super feminine. I loved that it had some real weight to it. It felt like it was layered with many complexities. It was a really beautiful job.”

Luxury spending trends 2017: Japan second largest luxury market in the world

Tight-fisted shoppers, unsteady economic growth and a shrinking population: Japan doesn’t exactly fit the image of a spending powerhouse these days. But you would never know it in Ginza — Tokyo’s answer to the Champs-Elysees or Fifth Avenue — where a new 13-storey upscale mall is proving that Japan is still a whale in the luxury business.

The country logs some $22.7 billion in annual spending on top-end goods made by brands including Chanel, Dior, and Prada, ranking it as the world’s number two luxury market behind the United States. “Luxury products may be more expensive, but they are very well-made,” said 79-year-old Toshiko Obu, carrying her longtime Fendi bag outside the Ginza Six building, which has been drawing big crowds since last week’s opening.

Japan is renowned among the world’s priciest retailers for its discriminating clientele—Chanel tries to keep local customers physically separated from tourists packing more cash than class. “You shouldn’t forget that a big portion of the luxury clientele is here in Japan,” Sidney Toledano, chairman and CEO of Christian Dior Couture, told AFP at the opening of the 241-store building. “It remains a strategic market for luxury and, I’d say, true luxury.”

‘Biting their fingernails’

Dior is counting on Japan’s luxury market to rise this year, while rival Chanel is also expecting an upbeat 2017 after global sales of personal luxury goods barely grew last year. “We did not lose our character,” said Richard Collasse, head of Chanel in Japan. “There are brands that are suffering—the ones that at some stage stopped investing in Japan because China was the new El Dorado. And today they are biting their fingernails.”

Few brands predicted that deep-pocketed Chinese shoppers visiting Japan would support its luxury market—tourists account for about one-third of top-end spending.

Japan is hoping to land 40 million visitors in 2020, the year that Tokyo hosts the Olympics. Last year, some six million Chinese visited, compared with 2.4 million in 2014. “Historically, (Japan has) been a very insular luxury market where 90 to 95 percent of the spending was by locals,” said Joëlle de Montgolfier, Paris-based director of consumer and luxury product research at consultancy Bain & Company. But now some 30 percent of sales are generated by foreign visitors owing to tourism, she added.

A stronger yen dented visitors’ purchasing power last year, with luxury sales down one percent, after a nine percent rise in 2015. Dior’s Toledano said it is an opportunity to refocus on Japanese clientele. “We don’t ignore tourists, of course, but we’re not a duty-free shop,” he added.

‘Touching everything’

Some other Chanel shops in Tokyo have a separate cosmetics and perfume section reserved for top Japanese customers, in a bid to keep them away from the nouveau riche crowd. It also tips off local clientele about the expected arrival time of tourist buses so they can avoid them.”The loyal Japanese clients tend to run away from customers who were not very well raised and are wearing whatever or lying all over the sofa, touching everything,” said Chanel’s Collasse.

Dior’s haute couture show at the new mall’s opening featured Japanese-inspired dresses, underscoring a focus on the local market. But warning signs lurk behind smiling clerks and glitzy interiors at the new property on one of the world’s priciest shopping streets. Japan has struggled to reverse a decades-long economic slump while a falling population continues to shrink its labour force—and the pool of future luxury consumers.

Younger people, many on tenuous work contracts, don’t have the money or the same interest in luxury brands anymore, especially since top-end goods can now be rented online instead, said Naoko Kuga, a consumer lifestyle analyst at Tokyo’s NLI Research Institute. “When you look at consumer purchasing behaviour, younger people put less value on luxury brand products” than previous generations, she said.

Dior Celebrates 70 Years With New Book Collection

For its 70th anniversary, the illustrious fashion house Dior will be releasing a series of reference books. Each book will be dedicated to a popular designer who has worked under the House of Dior over the years.

The first, will feature Christian Dior who founded his eponymous label back in 1946. Following books will celebrate designers such as Yves Saint Laurent, who took over after the death of Dior in 1957; Marc Bohan was another designer who led the brand when Saint Laurent was called up for military service in 1960. The fourth book will feature Gianfranco Ferré who was the first Italian to lead the French brand in 1989.

John Galliano, who happens to be the most controversial creative director of the seven, will be featured in the fifth reference book. Galliano took on the role in 1996 but was dismissed in 2011 over alleged anti-Semitic remarks. The sixth volume will focus on Belgian designer Raf Simons who was the Creative Director from 2012 to 2015 while the final volume will feature Maria Grazia Chiuri who joined the brand in July this year.

Shot by photographer Laziz Hamani and accompanied with text by Olivier Saillard, the first volume of the series will be titled ‘Dior by Christian Dior’. The book is said to be the “ultimate compendium” of the most iconic haute couture designs by Dior himself. The publication will serve as a complete chronology of the designer’s work at the house, from his groundbreaking debut Spring/Summer 1947 collection famously known as the “New Look,” to his final ‘Fuseau’ Fall/Winter 1957 line. Featuring fashion pieces conserved in museums and institutions from around the world, the first series is set to be released next month while the remaining six will be published by Assouline between 2017 and 2018.

3 Hottest Prints Trends: Spring/Summer 2017

Prints dominated the Spring/Summer 2017 collections and this trend is set to be big for the upcoming season. Ranging from retro to masculine, pop art and even minimalist chic, we take a look at three of the hottest print trends this season.

Retro ChicRetro prints have a 1970s vibe at Chloé. © BERTRAND GUAY / AFP

From Isabel Marant to Chloé (main picture), Dries Van Noten, Michael Kors and even Prada, the retro vibe was out in in full force. Embracing the 70s effect, designers featured prints in the form of large flowers, big bright blooms as well as diamond and check prints. Shown in head to toe looks, the retro prints are set to make a comeback — talk about a blast from the past.

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Lanvin, Paul Ka, Chanel, Fendi (above) and Nina Ricci are keeping last season’s trend of stripes. Inpinstripes, widebands, horizontal and vertical, the pattern was seen on oversized shorts, dresses, overcoats, pants and coats. Another geometric print seen, was polka dots. In classic shades, the pattern was seen in collections for the likes of Dior. Patchwork also made a comeback on the runways with designers such as Marc Jacobs. Sporting bohemian and romantic discreet form of patchworking along with a 1990s version, the pattern proved to still be a hit after more than one season. Ellie Saab, on the other hand, went big on stars, embroidered or printed all over sumptuous dresses for an out-of-this-world look.

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Printed letters, numbers, logos, large motifs, quotes and slogans land as wearable messages this season as seen on Gucci (above). While Dolce & Gabbana is clearly a master of the genre, it isn’t the only label playing the game. The current craze for streetwear is buoying the trend, with potential buyers passing all kinds of messages from designers to the public at large. It’s a trend that’s fun, practical and light-hearted, and very much in line with the spirit of the season.

Designer Christmas Trees To Be Auctioned For Charity

The biggest names in fashion, art and design will design 30 Christmas trees to go under the hammer later this month. The ‘Designer Christmas Trees’ charity auction is set to for November 21 at the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées in Paris, France, in what happens to be the 21st edition.

All proceeds from the holiday auction will be donated to fund cancer research, under the patronage of Professor Khayat, oncologist, President and founder of the Paris Charter Against Cancer (Charte de Paris contre le cancer). The festive auction event was founded by fashion journalist and producer Marie-Christiane Marek, who still leads the organization of the event. ‘Designer Christmas Trees’ celebrates creativity, design, and high-end expertise – all for a good cause.

This year’s event theme is ‘Gold and Light’. Designers from notable fashion houses and labels will be creating their own unique Christmas trees, based on their personal take on the theme. For the first time, the designers will be invited to also create gifts to place under the tree. Event attendees will be able to take pictures with each designer’s Christmas tree, as well as sculptures, photo prints and works of art.

Chanel, Dior, Chantal Thomass, Christian Lacroix, Elie Saab, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Jean Paul Gaultier, Lancel, Prada, Ungaro, Stella McCartney, Francis Kurkdjian, Christian Ghion, Jean-Jacques Ory, Olivia Putman, Rachid Khimoune and Marlène Mocquet are among the artists and designers signed up to take part in the 2016 event.

This 21st edition of “Designer Christmas Trees” includes three main events. First, the switching-on of the Christmas lights in Paris’ Avenue Montaigne, November 18. Next, the unique Christmas trees will go on public display, November 19 and 20, at the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, ahead of the gala evening and auction (by invitation only), November 21, also at the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées.

Creating Fashion that Sells Isn’t a Sin

What is the point of high fashion these days? Is there a reason that designers still get to sit on their high horses when the most talked about brand these days is Vetements, with all its nonstop talk about “clothing people actually wear”? It’s really an issue of the industry failing to catch up with the times, which is strangely ironic considering that fashion is supposed to represent and extol the times it lives in.

In the aughts of haute couture, and really since before the time of Charles Frederick Worth (considered the progenitor of high fashion) and Marie Antoinette, what fashion represented in the zeitgeist and times was desire. Plain and simple, it was about elevating and making clothing so beautiful, flattering, and jealousy-inducing that it was a means to a social end. Fashion is so strikingly bourgeois and hierarchical today precisely because it has, for so many years, represented a certain degree of sophistication and, indeed, wealth.

Selling isn't a sin: Chanel

Chanel

So what is high fashion for today, if Chanel is no longer haughtily pronouncing items of clothing démodé and instead, planting emojis onto accessories and clothing? If a brand as vaunted and intellectual as Prada is selling bags straight off the runway, can it still maintain a cachet of luxury and intelligence without the stink of shilling products (perhaps by making customers wait for the rest of its seasonal fashion direction)?

Selling isn't a sin: Balenciaga

Balenciaga

I posit that high fashion today is returning to its core, plain and simple, all over again. It is about beautiful clothing, wonderful things people feel an urge to wear, and representing the cultural values of the times. It is why Balenciaga under Demna Gvasalia feels so… right. With its post-modern melding of old-world techniques and new-age street-wise tricks, it has been vaulted right back into the fashion consciousness – and it is worth paying attention to again. With the advertising and PR money of fashion, it sometimes becomes difficult to differentiate what’s worth the time and what’s paid for. The purest reaction, then, is clothing that can convince customers to part with money to put on their back.

Selling isn't a sin: Vetements

Vetements

The ’90s were all at once the best and worst time for intellectual fashion, but that’s gone down the drain now. Conglomeration of brands and companies meant that fashion as an art and a means to an end was becoming monetized. Think of LVMH, Kering and Prada group’s expansions at the time.

Today, LVMH’s brands are represented in a good half of all fashion magazines’ front bumper of ads. Louis Vuitton, Dior, Céline, Loewe, Kenzo, Marc Jacobs, Givenchy, Fendi – even jewelry and watch brands such as Bulgari, Chaumet, Hublot, TAG Heuer, etc. Kering rounds it up with Gucci, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Stella McCartney, etc. Where did the mavericks like Helmut Lang and Martin Margiela go?

In an environment where people simply demanded more and more clothing, it became hard for such intellectually-driven and conceptual designers to continue – never mind that the clothes they designed and created were eminently wearable and beautiful. But it was tricky, because the old shows from Prada, for instance, were such subtle exercises in decryption. Meaning was layered and veiled, and it took a trained eye and mind to pick apart what exactly Mrs Prada was saying each season. Today, a collection like its FW16 vagabond girls-on-the-run one is, while beautiful, almost obvious to interpret. In recent seasons too: fast cars and sweaty glamour, stiff Stepford wives’ tailoring, duney desert travellers. They make big political and cultural statements, but they’re plain to see.

Selling isn't a sin: Saint Laurent

Saint Laurent

Therein lies the problem. When fashion becomes grounds for intellectual concepts, customers get frustrated. It was famously hard for people to grasp Craig Green’s debut SS15 collection with flowing judoka quilts and banners bound to the models. But it struck a chord with the industry collective viewing the show – inspiring some tears, even. Here was a collection set against an Enya soundtrack, resplendent in creative liberty and in the luxury of time it took to craft. It was beautiful and it sold. Next season, he did a similar thing – line and silhouette were only slightly different, but there was a complete reversal in the reaction of the press. Lambasts of similarity and repetition abounded, and it became clear that the industry was on the same page as its readers’ attention spans. Never mind giving designers time to develop an idea and letting it stew, mutate, evolve and be felt out. We wanted more and more of the new.

Selling isn't a sin: Prada

Prada

So where is intellectual fashion’s place in today’s fast-paced commercial churning environment? It is a conundrum that is hard to solve. Perhaps that is why Vetements is so successful – because it makes you feel like you’re thinking and being smart about things while contributing no effort at all. Perhaps it is why Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent was such a runaway commercial success – because you didn’t have to think while wearing his clothes, you just had to partake in his vacuous vein of L.A. grungy cool. Perhaps it is why Phoebe Philo’s Céline is so influential – women don’t have to think about what they’re representing to the world because Philo’s clothing whispers refinement for them. Perhaps it is why Alessandro Michele’s Gucci is so refreshing – they’re simply fun to wear (the same, season after season) and don’t offer much by way of a political or cultural message.

I am not against any of this.

Selling isn't a sin: Jacquemus

Jacquemus

On the contrary, it is the way fashion is today, and to whine about time gone by is to be astoundingly near-sighted – rather, rear-sighted. Karl Lagerfeld has been so good for Chanel exactly because he takes to the times he lives in like a cultural sponge. There’s a respect to the historical foundations of the brand, but even more surely a perspective of today.

Selling isn't a sin: Gucci

Gucci

What I’m saying is that “commercial” isn’t necessarily a bad word. We’ve been wary of the financial beast for long enough; it’s time to be smart about it and synthesize what we know with what we want. There’s a reason designers such as Christian Lacroix went out of business despite his reign in the ’80s and ’90s in Paris: extravagance and bonanza dresses stopped becoming relevant. After sobering financial crashes, actual plane crashes and a global worldview of uncertainty, the dream was over.

Selling isn't a sin: Dries Van Nolen

Dries Van Nolen

Today, the new dream is perhaps clothes that slide right into daily life. A note: I’m not saying poorly designed and poorly made clothes with nary a thought or smarts should get a pass for being easy to buy and wear. I’m talking about fashion that has a contextual place in contemporary culture and represents a designer’s point of view. Ultimately, that’s the place of fashion: on our backs.

This article was first published in L’Officiel Singapore.

6 Artists Revamp Lady Dior Bag

The iconic Lady Dior handbag is getting a makeover thanks to six new artists joining contemporary artist Marc Quinn in creating a limited edition accessories collection. You will recall that the French fashion house, Dior, had collaborated with Quinn in June to incorporate his oil paintings onto the classic bag to mark the opening of Dior’s London boutique. The new collaborations will be produced in no more than 100 examples each.lady-dior-reinvented-2

Matthew Porter, a Brooklyn-based photographer presents an automobile inspired design that incorporates marquetry to showcase a car suspended in mid-air (main picture, left). Revisiting his ‘Cannage’ motif is American artist Daniel Gordon, which results in a spontaneous graphic print produced in black and white mink fur (main picture, right).

Mat Collishaw, who hails from the UK and is best known for referencing nature, came up with a design that incorporates two butterflies with velvety soft wings (above, right). Also from the UK is Jason Martin who created 3D undulating ‘curves’ across his version of the bag, to suggest organic movement (above, left). Ian Davenport, again from the UK, reinterpreted his ‘Colorfall’ painting series, made by using syringes to inject paint onto aluminum or stainless steel, to create one of his bags (below, right). Another artist focusing on color is Chris Martin, whose vibrant bag design was derived from his artwork ‘Frog 1’ (below, left).lady-dior-reinvented

The bags and accessories will go on show at a pop-up installation in Miami during Art Basel on November 29, before heading to LA, Korea, London, China, Dubai and Paris.

Raf Simons Embraces American Dream

Raf Simons Embraces American Dream

Raf Simons, the Belgian designer and lead player of the recent “musical chair” movement in fashion, announced plans last week to show his Fall/Winter 2017 men’s collection at New York Fashion Week: Men’s next February, making it the brand’s debut on the city’s catwalks.

“Raf is one of the most influential designers on the international fashion stage,” said Steven Kolb, President and CEO of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). “His creativity and energy are a welcome addition as we continue to grow this important platform for American menswear.”

New York over Paris? What gives? The stateside move suggests the European designer has global ambitions for his label to crack North America, having shown his Autumn/Winter 2016 collection in Paris earlier this year, followed by a Spring/Summer 2017 collection that was revealed during Florence’s Pitti Uomo menswear event in June.

Color us cynical but perhaps Simons is taking a more US-focused approach to fashion following his appointment as chief creative officer at Calvin Klein. One of the world’s most renowned fashion houses based in the USA, Simons’ move was announced in August. His debut collection for the brand is also set to be revealed for the Fall 2017 season.

Simons stepped down as creative director at Christian Dior last October, following three-and-a-half years as the head of the legendary French house’s womenswear department. “It’s a decision founded on one hand by my desire to concentrate on other centers of interest in my life, notably my own label, as well as the passions that motivate me beyond my professional activities,” he said at the time. Those other passions may have to wait for a while — for now. Simons’ career appears to be going full throttle.

New York Fashion Week: Men’s runs from January 30-February 2, 2017.

MEN’S FOLIO: Ambitious October Issue

MEN’S FOLIO celebrates its 19th anniversary with its October issue with a theme that centers on ambition. The cover of the latest issue features none other than model and emerging actor, Godfrey Gao.

As the first Asian to front a Louis Vuitton campaign, we can look forward to seeing Godfrey Gao make his mark in Hollywood in the years to come. Donning Zegna Couture for this issue’s cover story, the Taiwanese-born Canadian shares that he can must always ensure that he is never complacent in order to achieve success in his field.

Staying on the chosen theme, the issue also brings us five rising local talents in various fields as well as 19 ambitious and aspirational creations ever made. Curated by the team behind MEN’S FOLIO, the items range from a 2,500-piece limited edition art box to a $100 million superyacht. Capturing the essence of dreams and desires is the Time section in the issue, which features dramatic gold watches.

Along with this feature, MEN’S FOLIO also brings us the hottest accessories of the season. From Paul Smith’s latest writing instruments to the luxurious totes from Dior that you will simply want to get your hands on and the hottest sneakers worn by Elvin Ng, MEN’S FOLIO ensures that readers are kept in the in the loop about the hottest trends.

“New talents are rising in Asia with heightened appeal to the local audience, and the appeal of MEN’S FOLIO has never been so great. MEN’S FOLIO has come a long way since its debut issue in 1997, and it is dedicated to staying true to its original DNA, in continuing to feature Asian men who are an inspiration to many,” says publisher and CEO of Heart Media, Olivier Burlot. He adds that “The magazine continues to thrive forward and its increasingly strong digital presence is a reflection of its strong connection to the fashion savvy male audience in South-East Asia.”

On a final note, the team behind MEN’S FOLIO, is proud to announce that they have received nearly 80 entries for the Men’s Folio Designer of the Year competition. To find out more details about the competition and further details about the contestants, visit MEN’S FOLIO.

Robert Pattinson Fronts Dior Homme Spring 2017

Robert Pattinson Fronts Dior Homme Spring 2017

Robert Pattinson proves that he is more than just a glittering vampire thanks to the new campaign for the Dior Homme spring 2017 collection. Set in Paris, the black and white images are captured by none other than Karl Lagerfeld. Of course, Pattinson has been closely associated with Dior for awhile now, being the face of Dior Homme and having fronted well-received fragrance campaigns for Dior in the past.

Dressed in a biker jacket, tuxedo and suit — one of which is embroidered with lily-of-the-valley motifs, Pattinson shows off a collection that was overseen by Dior’s creative director Kris Van Assche. The campaign is meant to evoke film noir.

“I’m always floored at the undeniable beauty of Paris,” said Pattinson in a statement. “And at night in the alleys and the side streets, emptied of crowds it’s almost more breathtaking. Contrasting shadows make everywhere you look seem like a frame from a movie.”

Saint Laurent Paris Fashion Week

5 Runway Trends: Paris Fashion Week

As far as the news cycle goes, Paris Fashion Week was overshadowed by the robbery involving Kim Kardashian and millions worth of jewelry. But that does not mean that the catwalks in the city delivered anything but the finest designs for the upcoming season. We take a look at five of the best runway trends from Paris Fashion Week.

Glitter Gang

The designers have brought the glitter to the catwalks in numerous ways. From the shiny vinyl fabrics that were used in jackets and skirts to tight 1980s-inspired off shoulder tops, Mugler and Kenzo brought some sparkle to their collections. Like Dior and Lanvin, Nicolas Ghesquiere used gold and silver gleam to provide a little rock-lux to the Louis Vuitton collection.

Under Where?
Lanvin Paris Fashion Week

Lanvin

Transparency is the name of the game for many this season. Most designers included at least one or two see-through dresses or tops in their collections with a majority of the sheer black tops and “Belle de Jour” tulle dresses were worn without bras on the runway. However, Chanel was one brand that used underwear as outerwear through lingerie dresses that were seen through most of the collection. Over at Lanvin and Agnes b, their silky pajama suits proclaimed “It’s summer, why get dressed at all…”

In Bad Taste

Saint Laurent’s Vaccarello went flashy with stilettos that had the letters YSL forming the heels. The designer also went with mono-boob dresses for women who preferred to make an entrance — or maybe Lady Gaga. There was no shame at Dior with the brand showing off the slogan “J’adore Dior” on shoulder straps, straps of its sandals and belts. Chanel embraced some style secrets of rappers by pairing its baseball caps with chunky rapper bling diamond jewelry.

Return Of The Establishments
Dior Paris fashion Week

Dior

While the last few years have seen young rebel labels take over the runways, this fashion week has seen the likes of Dior, Saint Laurent, Lanvin and Leonard climb back to the top of the pile. While neither Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior nor Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent are revolutionaries, there is a edgy energy in their spring-summer collections that promises the old stagers could surprise us yet.

Tickled Pink

From Chanel to Valentino and Nina Ricci, pink hues proved to be another trend on the catwalks. Pale ivory pinks were dominant for lingerie dresses. Two toga dresses from Celine used the soft shade to cut the edgy oversized feel.

5 Runway Highlights: Paris Fashion Week SS17

It was a week filled with designer debuts, endearing expectations, and simply fearless fashion. As Paris Fashion Week closes this week, we highlight the five top trends from the spring/summer presentations in the city of lights:

See-through

We may not get transparency from nation leaders and corporations but our wardrobes have no such shortcomings. Among the see-through mavens were three of the highly-buzzed designer debut shows of the week.

Maria Grazia Chiuri’s debut at Dior (above) presented a series of gossamer lingerie tulle dresses. Meanwhile, Anthony Vaccarello delivered bra-less sheer tops and a mono-boob dress that exposed a single breast. Bouchra Jarrar’s Lanvin debut was more restrained and elegant, with a couple of bedroom/party-appropriate lingerie dresses.

Newcomer Neith Nyer and veteran stagers Carven, Rochas, Y Project, Vionnet and John Galliano at Maison Margiela all got in on the act too.

Gender Flux

Fashion has embraced androgyny and challenged gender stereotypes over the last few years. This week, transgender models turned up on the catwalks for Neith Nyer, Y Project, and Koche. Julien Dossena at Paco Rabanne evoked gender flux in a show inspired by 1960s sexual liberation, which seemed to fit in seamlessly in Woody Allen’s 1972 film Everything You Always Wanted to Know About Sex.

A model presents a creation for Chloe during the 2017 Spring/Summer ready-to-wear collection fashion show, on September 29, 2016 in Paris.BERTRAND GUAY / AFP © BERTRAND GUAY / AFP

One Bare Shoulder

Blame it on Hedi Slimane for resurrecting the 1980s trend with his final show for Saint Laurent, the now notorious love-it-or-more-likely-hate-it 1980s super-bling “bat-wing” shoulders collection. His successor Vaccarello didn’t exactly imitate the excess part, but did gave the off-the-shoulder part his own interpretation.

The “one bare shoulder” was translated to a floaty bohemian look at Chloe (above), and Barbara Bui’s shiny vinyl variant.  The trend was also spotted at Mugler, Wanda Nylon, Vionnet, Isabel Marant, Haider Ackermann and Yohji Yamamoto shows.

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Frills

Frills are flourishing, despite the triumphant march of the minimalist brigade in the industry. Young Ukranian brand Paskal used frills as a contrasting accent to the otherwise minimalist collection, while Japanese street avant gardist Junya Watanabe folded frills into this geometrical origami creations. Anne Sofie Madsen, Andrew GN, Alexis Mabille, Lanvin (above), and even street-favorite label Off White also went the frilly direction.

Paule Ka - spring/summer 2017 - Paris © PATRICK KOVARIK / AFP

Converting Japanese

Kenzo, Yohji Yamamoto, and Comme des Garcons led the pack of an ever-expanding brood of Japanese designers participating in Paris Fashion Week, including Undercover, Junya Watanabe and Anrealage.

However, the influence of Japan on Western designers has been indisputably strong. Young talents Terra, Paule Ka’s (above) Alithia Spuri-Zampetti and Liselore Frowijn cited their trips to anime-land as the key to their collections. Japanese aesthetics and techniques were also widely seen on the catwalks.

 

Game Changers: 5 Bags For All Seasons

This season’s most memorable bags are all about reform (nothing destructive, though). Whether it is newly introduced styles or impeccable updates of icons, our picks aren’t only attractive, they’ll also shift your perspective.

Holographic City Trunk PM by Louis Vuittonlouis-vuitton

We never thought Nicolas Ghesquière could be so… Zen. This little piece of hardware proves that. Yes, there’s a dent in it, and that’s the beautiful reason why we’re rethinking the entire sphere of Ghesquière’s spirituality. Despite its overtly contemporary form, the City trunk emanates wabi-sabi (the Japanese art of finding beauty in imperfection), which is enlightening, considering how every other brand strives, instead, for perfection.

Tweed Amazona by Loeweloewe

As far as tweed bags go, most of them have been chichi. Thank god for Jonathan Anderson, the holy mastermind of the Amazona reinvention. Now he’s bringing a chic, fringy update that masks the bag’s actual silhouette. With plenty of texture, it’s the one-of-a-kind bag you’ll sport to death. Every inch of it will end up frayed and we reckon that’s the look Anderson wants you to achieve.

MIUlady by Miu Miumiu-miu

Miuccia Prada knows how to spoil her girls: this is the bag for 2k16 aristocracy. Coming from a designer who consistently plays with ostentation in an ironic fashion, you have the license to have every kind of fun with it. Even if you’re not born a Jenner or a Hadid (who are both atypical of a Miu Miu runway), make sure your purchases convince everyone of your royal lineage.

Runway by Diordior

For Fall/Winter 2016, the Runway proved that studio heads Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux are going strong, even without a creative director. Pictured here is a version embroidered entirely with sequinned flowers and fringes – it’s intense. The bag comes in such delicate versions, you’re likely to be engulfed with the fear of getting tangled in everything – but fret not, the workmanship is fantastic.

La Pionnière by Pradaprada

We understand the thrill and prestige of being the first (hence the name) in any field — who wouldn’t want to be associated with innovators and groundbreakers? In today’s world of chaos, we rely on what’s inventive to move us forward. The hunting-inspired cross-body was the first bag Prada offered at the dawn of the “see now, buy now” game, which begs the question: if our lady Miuccia is doing it, will the rest of the industry follow suit?

This article was first published in L’Officiel Singapore.

Creative Renaissance Expected at Paris Fashion Week

Seasonal changes are transformative but Paris Fashion Week this September is expected to reveal major creative shifts at some of the biggest names in luxury fashion. With so many new creative directors in place at France’s biggest fashion houses, this season’s Paris Fashion Week is supposed to bring a breath of fresh air to the capital.

These changes at the creative helm, collectively, represents a transformative time for labels, and one gets the sense that if revival and renewal don’t make a strong showing in the spring/summer 2017 season, the fashion world will be disappointed. This is likely because many of the wider changes in the fashion business will not be evident in Paris.

Paris Fashion Week is unlikely to see many – if any – of the combined menswear and womenswear collections on the agenda in Milan, New York and London. The same goes for the “see now buy now” concept. While fashion houses such as Burberry, Tom Ford and Michael Kors are bringing their latest collections to stores straight after their runway shows (globally in some cases), French fashion is resisting this revolution. Most French fashion houses will continue to operate on the traditional industry schedule for the upcoming round of shows.

So, the weight of expectations if fully on the creative directorship changeovers at many big houses, putting the French capital firmly in the spotlight. Some of the incoming designers’ first collections for their new employers are eagerly awaited in the fashion world.

Dior, Lanvin, Saint Laurent

The upcoming Dior show will be a particular focus of attention, overseen for the first time by Maria Grazia Chiuri. A former co-creative director of Valentino, the Italian fashion designer is the first woman to take the reins of Dior’s haute couture, ready-to-wear and accessories collections. The new ready-to-wear line is expected to mark a fresh start for the label, with particular emphasis on accessories, a domain in which Maria Grazia Chiuri notably excels.

Since a traumatic parting of ways with its emblematic creative director, Alber Elbaz, almost a year ago, Lanvin is also set to enter a new era in September. The label’s Paris show, scheduled September 28, will allow Bouchra Jarrar, now heading womenswear collections, to showcase the full extent of her talent and to bring a feminine, modern touch to Lanvin’s style.

The fashion world will also have its eyes on Saint Laurent this season, again due to a recent change in creative director. The upcoming show from Anthony Vaccarello, who replaced Hedi Slimane, will be especially eagerly awaited since his predecessor’s style was so intrinsically linked with the spirit of the brand. What’s more, his arrival has brought a few changes to the Paris schedule. Not only has Saint Laurent chosen to move its show to the first day of Paris Fashion Week, September 27, but Anthony Vaccarello also announced that he was putting work for his own label on hold, with no show in store for the Paris event.

Sonia Rykiel in the spotlight

The Sonia Rykiel show is likely to be emotionally charged at this season’s Fashion Week. Scheduled October 3 – barely a month after the death of the brand’s eponymous founding designer – the show could take the form of a final homage, both in terms of its staging and the pieces in the new collection. The show could prove a fitting farewell for this French designer who revolutionized fashion, liberating women from stuffy bourgeois looks and introducing a hint of relaxed chic that characterizes French style today.

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Journey Through Space: Dior Rose des Vents

Buckle up because Dior is about to take you on an epic journey through a dazzling universe comprised entirely of Rose des Vent’s timeless medallions.

Designed by Creative Director of Dior Joaillerie Victoire de Castellane, the high jewellery collection is the Maison’s take on some of Monsieur Dior’s most cherished motifs, such as the eight-pronged star and rose. In the video, two space cadets bravely venture into the depth of space and leave their mark on the brightest planet of them all.

Watch the animation below and find out more about the meaningful collection at L’Officiel.com.

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Jennifer Lawrence Stars in Dior Accessory Campaign

Dior continues its longstanding relationship with Jennifer Lawrence once again for its latest campaign for the accessories line. Set against either a grey background or plush white armchair, the Oscar-winning actress was lensed by prolific photographer Patrick Demarchelier in the series of portraits.

The “Hunger Games” star — sporting natural, minimal make-up and a simple combed back hairstyle – looked a vision as she posed with the season’s Diorever and Diorama bags in metalized leather, bold colours and tufted velvet logo canvas.

View more of Lawrence’s campaign and Dior’s bag offerings for the season at L’Officiel.com now.

This story is also available in Bahasa Indonesia. Read it here: Jennifer Lawrence Membintangi Kampanye Aksesori Dior

designer Alber Elbaz to join Oscar de la Renta

Alber Elbaz Joining Oscar de la Renta?

So it begins, again. Alber Elbaz, the former creative head behind Lanvin is said to be in talks to take over the reins at Oscar de la Renta but this is all hearsay. The Moroccan-born Israeli designer will be the one of the latest designers to join a new fashion house. Elbaz himself called his departure from Lanvin a personal “tragedy” and, in the same Vogue article, said he would only take up another job in fashion if it would make him feel “awake” again.

His previous role at Lanvin saw him guide the Parisian house for 14 years before finally leaving in October 2015. The timing of his departure, said to have been brought on by rising tensions with the owner of Lanvin, sparked off another rumor that Elbaz was due to join Dior. While the move never happened and Maria Grazia Chiuri took over that position, it was a dream that many harbored for sure.

Oscar de la Renta, had been under the helm of Peter Copping until earlier this year when he stepped down citing “personal circumstances”. This resulted in the brand’s Spring/Summer 2017 collection to be taken care of by the in-house design team. The collection is set to preview this fall. It is not difficult to imagine Elbaz, whose revival of Lanvin was based on a modern yet ultra-feminine aesthetic, at Oscar de la Renta. If nothing else, that label is famous for its enchanting red carpet styles.

The fashion world has seen a rapid succession of high-profile resignations in recent months, beginning with Alexander Wang’s departure from Balenciaga last summer and including Hedi Slimane quitting Saint Laurent and Francisco Costa and Italo Zucchelli parting ways with Calvin Klein.

Issey Miyake

5 Fall/Winter 2016 Fashion Trends

The new season will soon be upon us and it is time to start thinking of another wardrobe update. Straight from the runways around the world, we explore the five trends that are set to be big for women’s fashion this fall. For fall/winter, the brands brought out designs such as long-length pieces with various finishes.

Chic Pleats 
Maison Margiela

Maison Margiela

The pleated skirt this summer has paved the way for pleats to be worked into long and short skirts, dresses and tops. From Maison Margiela to Diesel Black Gold, Valentino and Bottega Veneta the trend was used in various forms to highlight a sensual vibe in the designs. Over at Issey Miyake, the brand showcased two new technical procedures that boosted the fluidity of movement, creating an array of optical illusions.

Spotlight on shoulders 
Christian Dior

Christian Dior

The shoulders are the stars of the season, in case the off-shoulder summer trend has not given you a better hint. From asymmetrical tops and dresses to cuts that leave the shoulders entirely bare, fashion houses such as Christian Dior, Elie Saab, Mugler, Anthony Vaccarello, Ermanni Scervino and Alexander McQueen are leading the way. Other designers chose to keep shoulders covered but structured in designs that exaggerated the eighties styles such as Saint Laurent and Jacquemus.

Silky soft fur 
Moncler Gamme Rouge

Moncler Gamme Rouge

Where some brands are steering clear of fur, others chose to showcase the material in various colors this season. From brightly colored, autumnal and sophisticated white, fur was a favorite for several designers. Labels such as Moncler Gamme Rouge featured it on collars, coats, skirts and even hats making it the pride and joy of the collection. At Paul & Joe as well as Valentino, fur was seen in multi-colored pastel shades while Saint Laurent saw the material in bright red. Over at Chloé, fur was featured in electric blue while Fendi simply embraced fur in its designs as always.

Sheer, floaty fabrics
Alexander Wang

Alexander Wang

The springtime vibe was seen in dresses that were lighter and floatier, becoming almost transparent. This season’s gowns are a simple veil, with super-fine fabrics, sheers, embroidery and netting hinting at the female form for a sensual rather than sexy effect. This trend was seen at Sonia Rykiel, Giambattista Valli, Valentino, Andrew GN, Chalayan, Dolce & Gabbana and Alexander Wang. The season’s hottest look sees a very lightweight dress worn with a long, heavy coat.

Prints go wild
Roberto Cavalli

Roberto Cavalli

They never really left the building so it is no surprise that prints will be back in a big way this season. They’ll be seen in touches here and there, like Kenzo’s tiger-print collars, as well as in full-on animal-print ensembles. In the fashion jungle, Sonia Rykiel opted for python print, Givenchy mixed python and panther motifs, and Dior went for leopard. Blumarine brought animal-print to accessories, along with Roberto Cavalli.

Lucky Dior Signet Rings

While others have ventured away from signet rings, Dior has given the concept a new twist with the Lucky Dior collection. In white, rose and yellow gold, the signet rings are a perfect fit for those looking to invest in a talisman that is both symbolic yet versatile.lucky_dior_bee_.59913103008.h0

Along with a precious stone, the luxury French brand incorporates symbols that hold special meaning to the house of Dior. Take for instance the bee that represents the Christian Dior seamstresses against the deep black onyx or the lily of the valley that has long been associated with Mr Dior. Other designs that make up the collection include a clover to represent good luck that is set against amazonite as well as a star that was also important to Christian Dior against a radiant brown stone.lucky_dior_rose.3bcbc103137.h0

The oval, which reminds us of the famous armchairs laid out for guests at catwalk shows, is another symbol that has been put in ring form. In this new collection, it is combined with fluorite, which is associated with protection. The initials CD, for Christian Dior of course, are a key part of the collection, and have been set against a red coral backdrop. The rose is an important symbol for the fashion house and was therefore an obvious inclusion in the collection. In this case, the queen of flowers, which reminds us of the designer’s childhood garden in Granville, is set against a navy blue lapis.

The pairings prove to be a unique mix of the brand’s history and symbolisim that produce a radiant Lucky Dior collection that is sure to add some character to an outfit.

13 Shades of Blue: Fall/Winter 2016 Trend

The seasonal wardrobe update is just around the corner and it seems that blue is set to reign supreme. In numerous shades, such as electric blue, pale blue, turquoise, navy and lavender, the color is now a “must-have” for the upcoming season.

Electric Blue: Tory Burch, Louis Vuitton, Saint Laurent and Courrèges

Electric Blue: Tory Burch, Louis Vuitton, Saint Laurent and Courrèges

Proving to be a favorite among designers and fashion brands, the shade will be seen in designs that are set to be lively, feminine and sensual while retaining hints of rock’n’roll. At the latest fashion week shows, Louis Vuitton used the shade in numerous forms while Saint Laurent splashed electric blue on fur coats, shoes, dresses that were included in its retro, rock’n’roll style. Another brand that utilized the shade, was Courrèges who chose to pair it with touches of white.

Dark Blue: Dior, Prada, Kenzo and Stella McCartney

Dark Blue: Dior, Prada, Kenzo and Stella McCartney

Skipping black, the darkest blue was also another shade to be seen this season for womenswear. From New York to Milan, London and even Paris Fashion Week, the runways were filled with the hue. Kenzo was won over by this deepest of blues, choosing it for suits and coats, as a head-to-toe look, and combined with a tiger print, while Sonia Rykiel and Dior opted for a glittering, sparkly version of the shade. Stella McCartney unveiled two-toned dresses and midnight blue puffer jackets. In a more classic form, the color was in evidence at John Galliano and was chosen for military-inspired jackets at Prada, Jason Wu and Chloé.

Light Blue: Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi and Missoni

Light Blue: Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi and Missoni

For fall, the colour will be seen in pastel and bright shades such as azure, sky blue and turquoise. On the catwalk, Missoni paired the most audacious tones of blue with other bright colors, balcks and greys. Over at Fendi, the palestblue was seen on its thigh-high boots and fur while Balmain and Dolce & Gabbana added touches of sky blue to their collections.

Blue on Blue: Versace and Diesel Black Gold

Blue on Blue: Versace and Diesel Black Gold

Three brands deserve a special mention, for having blue as the dominating shade in the collections. Versace, used all kinds of blue as a head-to-toe look, combined with other colors, and mixed with hints of pink. Diesel Black Gold and Byblos Milano took a similar path with a whole range of pieces in the colors of the sky and the ocean.