Tag Archives: Yves Saint Laurent

Art museums in Europe: Yves Saint Laurent Museums in Paris and Marrakesh opens October 2017

The Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech

The Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech targets fashion aficionados and the general public.

Fans of French designer Yves Saint Laurent can mark their calendars. Come October 2017, The Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent, which works to preserve the legacy of the famous designer, will open two museums dedicated to his life and work.

The foundation has selected Paris and Marrakesh in Morocco as the locations in which 5,000 haute couture garments and 15,000 accessories will be on display. Also set to be featured are a thousand sketches, photographs and the like that the designer himself had archived since 1961, when he created his fashion house.

“Both museums are aimed at the general public as well as fashion lovers. Yves Saint Laurent was a major artist of the 20th century,” said the couple’s foundation in a statement.

The Yves Saint Laurent museum in Marrakech will open later this year. | Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech Photo © 2016 Studio KO Fondation Pierre Bergé Yves Saint Laurent

Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech. Photo © 2016 Studio KO and The Fondation Pierre Bergé Yves Saint Laurent

The larger museum in Marrakesh hopes to attract up to 700,000 visitors a year. Yves Saint Laurent owned a house in the Moroccan city and spent a great deal of time there over the years. It was essential to his inspiration in his work. The space will be located on Rue Yves-Saint Laurent near Jardin Majorelle, a garden that he and Pierre Bergé saved from development in 1980. It is also now home to a Berber cultural museum and cultural site that receives 700,000 visitors a year.

French architectural firm Studio KO is behind the 4,000 square meter structure that will comprise a museum with a permanent collection of Yves Saint Laurent’s work, a space for temporary exhibitions, an auditorium, a research library, as well as a café and restaurant.

The Yves Saint Laurent museum in Paris.

The Yves Saint Laurent museum in Paris.

The comparably smaller Parisian museum will be located in the historical couture house at 5 Avenue Marceau where Yves Saint Laurent designed his work for 30 years, from 1974 until 2002. The site has also been home to The Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent since 2004. Visitors will be able to explore a constantly updated display of the collection. The museum will also include visits to the former haute couture salons, as well as Yves Saint Laurent’s studio.

The Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent in Paris closed its doors in April 2016 in order to allow works to create the future museum to begin. Stage designer Nathalie Crinière and interior designer Jacques Grange is recreating an exhibition area that will be twice as large as the existing space. They are also refurbishing the designer’s couture house in the original style.

Limited edition beauty collection: YSL Beauté will release Touche Éclat 25 Star Edition in 2017

For lovers of beauty, the Touche Éclat by YSL Beauté is a must have product in the daily arsenal. Housed in a slim gold pen, the makeup tool has garnered a healthy following from those who know the power it yields with just one click. After 25 years, it comes as no surprise that YSL Beauté is celebrating what is now an icon in the beauty world with a collectible Touche Éclat 25 Star Edition. The formula of the illuminator remains the same but it is the gold casing that makes it different and desirable.

This year, the brand covers the sleek pen in a blanket of a dozen stars. The reimagined design gives the Touche Éclat a rockstar edge, thanks to the motif, that provides us with a product that is a collectible objet d’art. Available in three shades such as the N°1 Luminous Radiance, N°2 Luminous Ivory and N°3 Luminous Peach, it serves more than one purpose. YSL Beauté calls the Touche Éclat as something that is more than a highlighter or concealer and we agree.

With the N°1 Luminous Radiance, one can count on it as a universal illuminator that is perfect for any skin tone. Those with fair to medium tones, the N°2 Luminous Ivory provides a super-bright beam of light while the N°3 Luminous Peach pairs well with those of medium to darker skin tones with its warm glow. Like a magic light that enhances features and eliminates fatigue and dark circles in a heartbeat, the Touche Éclat has been a necessary companion for those with who are strapped for time.

The Touche Éclat 25 Star Edition by YSL Beauté will available from March 2017.

Dior Celebrates 70 Years With New Book Collection

For its 70th anniversary, the illustrious fashion house Dior will be releasing a series of reference books. Each book will be dedicated to a popular designer who has worked under the House of Dior over the years.

The first, will feature Christian Dior who founded his eponymous label back in 1946. Following books will celebrate designers such as Yves Saint Laurent, who took over after the death of Dior in 1957; Marc Bohan was another designer who led the brand when Saint Laurent was called up for military service in 1960. The fourth book will feature Gianfranco Ferré who was the first Italian to lead the French brand in 1989.

John Galliano, who happens to be the most controversial creative director of the seven, will be featured in the fifth reference book. Galliano took on the role in 1996 but was dismissed in 2011 over alleged anti-Semitic remarks. The sixth volume will focus on Belgian designer Raf Simons who was the Creative Director from 2012 to 2015 while the final volume will feature Maria Grazia Chiuri who joined the brand in July this year.

Shot by photographer Laziz Hamani and accompanied with text by Olivier Saillard, the first volume of the series will be titled ‘Dior by Christian Dior’. The book is said to be the “ultimate compendium” of the most iconic haute couture designs by Dior himself. The publication will serve as a complete chronology of the designer’s work at the house, from his groundbreaking debut Spring/Summer 1947 collection famously known as the “New Look,” to his final ‘Fuseau’ Fall/Winter 1957 line. Featuring fashion pieces conserved in museums and institutions from around the world, the first series is set to be released next month while the remaining six will be published by Assouline between 2017 and 2018.

Pierre Berge Library Auction By Sotheby’s: Part Two

As we announced a few months agoPierre Berge, the co-founder of the Yves Saint Laurent fashion empire has auctioned off the second part of his library in Paris. The private collection, which was made up of 376 works, is estimated to be the most valuable and has raised five million euros. Under the care of auction house Sotheby’s, rare first editions of classics of 19th century European literature including signed books by French greats such as Balzac, Hugo, Stendhal and Baudelaire.

Two pieces by Gustave Flaubert went under the hammer. The first, was a handwritten manuscript that sees the whole passages of the novelist’s travelogue “Over the Fields and over the Shores”, scratched out. The travelogue that earned 537,880 euros, was an account of his tour of France’s Loire and Brittany regions in 1886. The second was an original edition of Flaubert’s masterpiece “Madame Bovary” that sold for nearly twice its estimate at 190,369 euros.

However, the top earner from the two-day sale was for the manuscript of Stephane Mallarme’s “Noces d’Heriodiade”. The manuscript about the marriage of the biblical character Salome’s mother, sold for 587,720 euros. The sale adds to the 11.7 million euros that had been raised by the French philanthropist last year from first part of his collection. With four more sales of the library planned for next year, the collection is expected to be worth over 30 million euros. The proceeds of the auctions will be given to a foundation set up by Berge with Saint Laurent.

Saint Laurent SS 2017: Vaccarello Channels Yves

Anthony Vaccarello’s highly anticipated debut collection for Saint Laurent arrived at Paris Fashion Week. The Belgian designer continued on the glam and grunge chic sartorial path of his predecessor Hedi Slimane, while adding a sleek and sexy flair. In other words, bid au revoir to the thigh-high slits, and say hello to super-short skirts.

Black leather was the dominant element in the collection, appearing in all kinds of pieces, from extreme mini skirts to bomber jackets; from slinky coats to sheer tops and to a mono boob dress prone to overexposure. The late Yves adored black, but Vaccarello clearly venerates it. Only several denim, lame, silver, and white elements serve as a break from the monochromatic magnificence.

However, the pair of black stilettos with YSL initials as the heels, was the ultimate attention stealer. YSL’s trademark “smoking” jacket was also referenced in a knowing homage to the singer Grace Jones, a huge fan of the house’s founder.

The collection was well commended by the front row audience, which included singer Jane Birkin and her actress daughters, and late Saint Laurent’s partner Pierre Berge. He later told reporters that he “really liked the references” to the style of Yves himself, “the codes, the vocabulary and the syntax… after that you can do what you want.”

This story is also available in Bahasa Indonesia. Read it here: Saint Laurent SS 2017: Vaccarello Menyalurkan Yves 

Vaccarello goes YSL first

Vaccarello Goes YSL First, Scuttles Own Paris Show

Displaying immaculate professional instincts, Anthony Vaccarello is committing 100 percent to Yves Saint Laurent, where he was recently installed as creative director. Vaccarello announced he is withdrawing his eponymous collection from Paris Spring-Summer 2017 Fashion Week.

Vaccarello joined Yves Saint Laurent from Versus Versace in April 2016, but has been running his own label since 2008. His position at Versus Versace certainly hold him back.

The Vaccarello Autumn/Winter 2016 collection is already available at selected retailers worldwide, but the Italian-Belgian designer will not show at Paris Fashion Week, which runs September 27 to October 5, 2016.

“This adventure has been amazing but I now feel the need to fully focus on this new project,” he said in a statement issued to the press.

Sotheby’s Auctions Remaining Pierre Berge Library

As one half of the duo who founded Yves Saint Laurent, Pierre Berge is regarded as a fashion mogul. On November 8 and 9, the French philanthropist will be putting up the other half of his famous library for auction at Sotheby’s in Paris.

The other half of the collection raised $12.8 million (which we covered originally here) so it would be no surprise if this collection fetches just as much. While the full auction catalogue is only made available in September, the current list of items included would make any literature fiend happy. The 380-work collection is expected to include the finest works of 19th century European literature, including the Marquis de Sade’s last novella as well as Gustave Flaubert’s account of his tour through France’s Loire and Brittany regions in 1886.

Made up of mainly English, German and Russian language classics, the collection also includes rare edition works from poets such as Byron, Shelley, Wilde, Tolstoy and Goethe. The proceeds of the auction will go towards the Foundation Pierre Berge-Yves Saint Laurent that Berge and his former lover Saint Laurent set up to support AIDS research.

Insider: 9 Beauty Notes

In a world where the benchmark of beauty glamour are dictated by sirens of the celluloid screen, we bring you 9 insider tips to help you sparkle and shine in your unabashed realness.

On Brigitta: Mesh bodysuit, La Perla. Leather whipstitched booties with tassels, Roger Vivier. Gold brass necklace, Louis Vuitton. Gold brass bracelet, Céline. On Fabio and Matthew: Swimming briefs, Calvin Klein Underwear.

On Brigitta: Mesh bodysuit, La Perla. Leather whipstitched booties with tassels, Roger Vivier. Gold brass necklace, Louis Vuitton. Gold brass bracelet, Céline. On Fabio and Matthew: Swimming briefs, Calvin Klein Underwear.

Beauty note 1:

Opium from Yves Saint Laurent is a behemoth of an oriental spicy scent. The time-tested classic conjures cigarettes left burning and the shadow of a demi-mondaine. M.A.C. Face and Body foundation is fantastic for giving exposed skin coverage and an even finish. To achieve an all-over glow, Tom Ford’s Soleil Blanc Shimmering Body Oil will leave a decadent cast of gold.

On Nicolai: Acetate sunglasses, Loewe.

On Nicolai: Acetate sunglasses, Loewe.

Beauty note 2:

Red is as timeless as it is powerful: a strong lip in the classic M.A.C Rubywoo lipstick is faultless and universally flattering. NARS Audacious Lipstick in Jeanne is a vampy alternative. On the eyes, try the Matte Eyeshadow in Persia from NARS for a colour-blocked statement on the lids.

For colour-treated hair, Sachajuan Silver Conditioner deeply moisturises and tones the colour to prevent brassiness and dullness. Hanz de Fuko Claymation gives good lift and structure to hair, allowing you to style it any way. A bit of the timeless L’Oréal Elnett Hairspray will keep things in place, with a subtle flaxen finish.

LO-May-Gloss-Beauty-Note-article-3

Beauty note 3:

The waft of seduction and desire is captured in Tom Ford’s Tobacco Vanille, a spicy-sweet fragrance that combines the heaviness of a musky wood base and the masculine sweetness of cloves and cacao – the kind of accords that make you stop and take a deep breath.

On Brigitta: Mesh body suit, La Perla. Gold brass necklace, Louis Vuitton. Gold brass bracelet, Céline. On Fabio and Matthew: Swimming briefs, Calvin Klein Underwear.

On Brigitta: Mesh body suit, La Perla. Gold brass necklace, Louis Vuitton. Gold brass bracelet, Céline. On Fabio and Matthew: Swimming briefs, Calvin Klein Underwear.

Beauty note 4:

Express your inner lady-in-red with a spritz of Frederic Malle’s Carnal Flower, rendering a piercing gauze of animalic camphor married to the feminine wiles of tuberose. Mousse Fort and Volupt Spray from Sebastian Professional build volume and give silken lightness to hair. Define and introduce mystery to the eyes with the Tom Ford Eye Defining Pen, NARS Dual-Intensity Eyeshadow in Pasiphae and Chanel Illusion d’Ombre in Mirage.

On Brigitta: Silver loop earrings, Hermès. Tribale earrings, Dior.

On Brigitta: Silver loop earrings, Hermès. Tribale earrings, Dior.

Beauty note 5:

To achieve hyper sculptural facial structure, put a shadow to the cheekbones with Tom Ford Shade & Illuminate, using the namesake Shade & Illuminate brush. Head-turning highlights can be achieved using NARS The Multiple in Copacabana, copiously smeared on the high points of the cheekbones, nose bridge and brow bones. Coat the eyelashes in these layers: Tom Ford Extreme Mascara, Chanel Le Volume, finished with M.A.C Opulash to tube and set.

Prep the hair with Shu Uemura Art of Hair Volumizing Mousse to give a voluminous start, followed by Sachajuan Styling Cream for a sleek finish. A light spray of OSiS+ Extreme Hold Hairspray will lend a pliable but finished gloss for hair that flies and defies gravity.

On Brigitta: Transparent hoodie, Longchamp. Mirrored earring, Loewe.

On Brigitta: Transparent hoodie, Longchamp. Mirrored earring, Loewe.

Beauty note 6:

A good pucker takes effort – Clé de Peau Lip Treatment is a luxuriously smooth and refined serum that leaves lips soft and plump. Follow that with a swipe of Tom Ford Matte Lip Colour in the delicious shade Black Dahlia to enhance the pout – all the better to kiss with.

On Brigitta: Denim jeans, Calvin Klein Jeans. Silver earrings and Kelly bracelet, Hermès. On Fabio and Matthew: Denim jeans, Calvin Klein Jeans.

On Brigitta: Denim jeans, Calvin Klein Jeans. Silver earrings and Kelly bracelet, Hermès. On Fabio and Matthew: Denim jeans, Calvin Klein Jeans.

Beauty note 7:

Prep the face with a dollop of Illamasqua Radiance Veil for a lit-from-within lustre. The high points of the face can be brought forward and given light using Becca Shimmering Skin Perfector. For a golden pout, try NARS Larger Than Life Lip Gloss in Gold Digger.

On Nicolai: Acetate sunglasses, Loewe. Silver Collier de Chien bracelet, Hermès.

On Nicolai: Acetate sunglasses, Loewe. Silver Collier de Chien bracelet, Hermès.

Beauty note 8:

Pamper the body with a generous layer of Les Exclusif de Chanel Crème Pour Le Corps body cream from Chanel, designed to maximise and increase the longevity of perfume worn after – Coromandel from the Les Exclusifs range is a spicy balsamic inspired by Chinese lacquered screens. Follow with Guerlain Sunless Tinted Self-Tanning Gel for a bronzed finish – vacation in Ibiza not necessary.

On Brigitta: Neoprene bodice; La Perla. Gold brass necklace, Louis Vuitton. On Fabio and Matthew: Swimming briefs, Calvin Klein Underwear.

On Brigitta: Neoprene bodice; La Perla. Gold brass necklace, Louis Vuitton. On Fabio and Matthew: Swimming briefs, Calvin Klein Underwear.

Beauty note 9:

Seduction for boys and girls comes in Sege Luten’s Five O’Clock Au Gingembre, combining the unexpected spice of candied ginger and the sweetness of over-ripe fruits. Call it bronze or call it gold — NARS Monoi Body Oil I can be used on for daily for moisture and the subtle glimmer of gold flecks. Chanel Le Vernis in Pirate is a timeless red that, when worn, imbues the hands with a beguiling pop of color.

Story credits:

Photography Chuando & Frey

Styling Joshua Cheung

Hair Marc Teng/ Atelier using Sebastian Professional; Sean Ang FAC3INC using La Biosthetique

Makeup Rick Yang, FAC3INC, assisted by Hong Ling using Make Up For Ever

Model Brigitta Liivak, Fabio Toledo, Matthew Djordjevic, Nicolai Otta

This story was first published in L’Officiel Singapore.

Beauty: 4 Pre-Makeup Boosters

When they say that it takes an army to look good, they are not always referring to a slew of artists. In most cases, it also requires a few secret weapons that help to achieve the perfect glow. We bring you the four boosters you need in your arsenal.

1. Oil up, then doll upMAC-beauty-booster

Fancy cosmetics brand M.A.C having an essential oil among its products. We were surprised to come across the Prep+Prime Essential Oil and were even more delighted to learn that it’s the secret tool of makeup experts. Mix a little of this almost-scentless oil with your liquid foundation to make the latter glide more smoothly and evenly onto skin and also to give your complexion a dewy touch. Your skin will look and feel less parched by mid-day.

2. A mask-haveOrigins-beauty-booster

Just when you thought that it was sufficient to use a cream or sheet mask every now and then, along comes a mask primer. The newly launched Origins Maskimizer Skin-Optimizing Mask Primer uses a marine algae complex that is known for its ability to retain moisture. When skin is soft and well-hydrated, it is better able to absorb ingredients from your face masks. To further quench skin, the Origins Maskimizer Skin-Optimizing Mask Primer also uses a technology that is reported to help skin bind moisture. And this must come as good news for those of us who have long struggled with spreading clay masks evenly on our faces (and also removing the gunk later) – applying Maskimizer beforehand is said to make the job easier.

3. Smooth startShiseido-beauty-booster

Oils used to have such a bad rep for turning skin all greasy and unappealing. But the new generation of products begs to differ. Case in point: the Shiseido Future Solution LX Replenishing Treatment Oil , a silky-smooth formula that not only nourishes, softens and plumps up skin but also gives your complexion a radiant sheen when you mix the oil with your favorite moisturizers or foundations.

4. The multi-way wonderYSL-Beauty-booster

At S$389 a pop, the Yves Saint Laurent Beauté Or Rouge Mask-in-Crème is more affordable than its face cream. Despite its name, it works quite well as an intensive night moisturiser so go do your Math there. Besides working as a luxurious leave-on mask, it also acts as a makeup booster. Apply this gently-scented and saffron-charged formula, rinse off after 15 minutes and then doll up. Your skin will look more radiant and feel softer under makeup.

Story Credits

Text by Pearlyn Tham

This story was first published in L’Officiel Singapore.

Savage Escape: Yves Saint Laurent Beauté

As I dream of a climate that would leave me feeling less like a main-course at a barbecue, Yves Saint Laurent Beauté seems to have embraced the heat and the sun. For the brand’s new summer makeup collection named Savage Escape, we a range of products that are inspired by a road trip in the desert.

With the sunbaked roads and unlimited freedom serving as a destination of choice for Lloyd Simmonds, the collection sees a natural, tanned and glowing complexion — but only where necessary. To naturally enhance your complexion, reach for the Sahariennes Bronzing Stones. The creamy powder, with its ultra-fine texture was created using a new micronization technique. The result is a product so light that it barely leaves a trace on your skin. Choose between three shades such as Sunstone, Fire Opal and Jasper to suit various skin tones.

The new Sahariennes Bronzing Stones by Yves Saint Laurent.

The new Sahariennes Bronzing Stones by Yves Saint Laurent.

While light makeup is the go to trend for a road trip, that doesn’t mean a glamorous look is forbidden. Yves Saint Laurent leaves it up to you with some new products for eyes. With a little help from the Limited Edition Savage Escape Couture Palette, you can choose between natural shades such as shimmery pink, golden beige, sandy brown and cobalt blue. For a more intense and glamorous look, Full Metal Shadow for eyes is being launched in two new shades for the summer: Bonnie Copper, a shimmery gold, and Blue Clyde, a navy blue.

The mouth is all about sensuality this season with two new high-shine shades of Gloss Volupté lip gloss: Aurora Pink and Rose El Dorado, a pale and a vibrant pink, while nails are treated to two new shades of La Laque Couture nail polish: Savage Pink, a pale pink, and Night Escape, a metallic blue.

Couture Skin Jewels: temporary tattoos by Yves Saint Laurent.

Couture Skin Jewels: temporary tattoos by Yves Saint Laurent.

To finish off this look, YSL Beauté has created some temporary tattoos called Couture Skin Jewels, to be worn like jewelry for a hint of glamour or just for fun. They include the YSL logo, a cuff, and other decorations for the wrists, hands and feet.

Anthony Vaccarello

Anthony Vaccarello Replaces Hedi Slimane

This must have been in the works for a while and I’m impressed that those in the know could hold their excitement for so long. Taking the place of Hedi Slimane in his capacity as Creative Director of Saint Laurent is Anthony Vaccarello. The low-key Belgian designer (who still, as of today, doesn’t have a Wikipedia page) has stepped down from his role at Versus Versace and put his own line on hold for his new gig. While it remains to be seen if the designer will bring that monochromatic palette and designs to the label or if he will rebel against his own norms, we can safely assume that it will be exciting times ahead.

To learn more, click here and here.

10 Top Trends for Autumn/Winter 2016-17

The end of fashion collection shows in New York, London, Milan and Paris, completes the full range of Autumn/Winter 2016-17 trends. With the fashion world still split on whether pieces in collections should go for sale immediately during the season or whether a delay is required to make the best of what they have, it seems that some designers are inspired by this tussle to mix it up a bit. Spring styles seemed to have bled a bit into Winter, among other stylistic ambiguities that made for an interesting series of Fashion Weeks.

Dreams of Spring

AW1617-Trends-Spring-Colors

Dark and neutral shades such beige, white, brown, black, and blue are the normal palette staples for a wintry and cool hue but this time, spring came through. The cool hues were still dominant but lighter melds and more springlike tones intruded. Liselore Frowijn, Chanel, Fendi, Gucci and Francesco Scognamiglio cheered winter up with pastel explosions, bolder brights, and gay color. New York, though, stood apart from the rest, as, other than a few (notably Michael Kors), that Fashion Week kept to the dark, muted palette.

 

Blue is the new Black

AW1617-Trends-BlueFrom petrol blue to pastel blue; from midnight and electric blue to navy and lavender – all these served as counterpoints to timeless black. Versace, Diesel Black Gold and Fendi went big on blue while Rahul Mishra, Eudon Choi, Marni, Dolce & Gabbana, and Missoni presented looks in the color or used blue in smaller touches. Just see how much blue you can spot in this very story!

Denim, normally a famous blue, was less present than previous seasons but still featured in collections from Chanel, Stella McCartney, Blumarine and Ujoh.

 

Eye-Catching DetailsAW1617-Trends-Embellishment

Continuing the eccentric vibe of the season are eyecatching embellishments mixed with outstanding patterns sitting alongside and contrasting with minimalist designs. Such occurs normally with the clash of multiple trends but in this case such details featured in almost all labels’ collection to some extent. Dolce & Gabbana flashed it up with diamanté, alongside golden, mirror-effect embellishments and metallic Lurex while Saint Laurent used bold detail in a different way more suited to the collection’s retro stylings.

 

Flashy FursAW1617-Trends-Fur

Fur in color was another staple among labels, whether finished with multi-colored horizontal stripes or vivid shades verging on the fluroscent, or packed with prints. Fendi set the tone with pieces, detailing and accessories all made from brightly colored fur while Ermanno Scervino brought smaller touches of it to hoods and collars. Ellery finished fur in red, pink and burgundy, while Saint Laurent went for electric shades.

 

Winter’s OuterwearAW1617-Trends-Outerwear

To combat the cold, coats, jackets, parkas and down jackets are firm fixtures of the season. Going the whole range from classical and functional to extravagant, outerwear this season is sure to fit all kinds of tastes, leaving something for everyone. Zips were a key feature for many, sometimes used as embellishment, but other times allowing big coats transform into lightweight outdoor garments. One key trend — seen in particular at Léa Peckre, Burberry and Narciso Rodriguez — is a masculine coat with a long, wide cut, worn over a lightweight dress, a sure sign of designers thinking beyond traditional seasons. Oversized coats will be big news this winter but down jackets and parkas with touches of fur or color — as spotted at 3.1 Phillip Lim and Rag&Bone — will be popular too. Chanel went for a more classic, highly feminine padded jacket.

 

Gender BendingAW1617-Trends-Unisex

Beyond the seasonal mix-up came unisex silhouettes and garments inspired by menswear. On the whole, though, the trend was still highly feminine looks with a few masculine details. Collections involved in the masculine/feminine trend include Paul Smith, John Galliano, Paul & Joe and Victoria Beckham. Some showed suit jackets with big shoulders and wide-cut trousers. Lots of other labels though — like Gucci, Mugler and Elie Saab — previewed more feminine, sensual collections.

 

Nightwear for DaytimeAW1617-Trends-Nightwear

Lingerie and sleepwear made their appearance on the runways as outerwear in autumn/winter collections. Lingerie-style dresses worn under thick, heavy coats, like at Sonia Rykiel, as well as dressing gowns and pajama pants were also spotted on the catwalk for a laid-back daytime look. This trend was mostly seen on the Italian catwalk, at Trussardi, Missoni, Gucci and Roberto Cavalli.

 

Land-Sailors

Edie Campbell

Other designers rode on a sailor or seafaring theme with sweaters, pants and sailor-style buttoning, all in a palette of navy blue, red and yellow. Cédric Charlier went particularly big on sailor chic in a collection inspired by old photos of retro seamen. Y/Project, Prada and Tommy Hilfiger also showed nautical looks.

 

Size MattersAW1617-Trends-Oversized

Wide, baggy, and even oversized pants were prominent, although skinny cuts were still present. Chalayan went for wide-cut leather pants, Jacquemus matched them with a huge-shouldered XXL jacket, Giorgio Armani printed them with patterns and Ralph Lauren gave them a high waist. Shiatzy Chen, on the other hand, had loose-cut pants with patterns and transparent effects.

 

Sleek SportinessAW1617-Trends-Sportswear

Some brought hints of a sporty style to their autumn/winter collections, while others jumped into sportswear head first. Among those adding a few sportswear pieces to feminine, urban collections, or leaving discreet touches of sportiness are Carven, Alexis Mabille, Alexander Wang and, of course, Tommy Hilfiger. There were some interesting collaborations in the sportswear arena too, such as Fenty x Puma by Rihanna.

All images are courtesy of AFP.

Hedi Slimane

Hedi Slimane and Saint Laurent to Part?

Watching designers announce their departure from iconic fashion houses, oddly enough feels sad, like the end of an era. It can also be scary for what the future might hold for the label and the individual. Some moves are met with shock (Raf Simmons and Alber Elbaz) while others had been anticipated for months. However, the recent departures have whipped numerous iconic houses into a frenzy to find replacements.

Just last week, we reported that Alessandro Sartori and Stefano Pilati had confirmed their departures from Berluti and Zegna respectively. So it is with a heavy heart to report that Saint Laurent’s artistic director Hedi Slimane, may soon join the list. This may be a game of Russian roulette for the brands…

At the moment rumors about Slimane’s future are just that, rumors but the mill is going into overdrive after fashion journal Women’s Wear Daily (WWD) reported that 47-year-old Slimane has “Failed to reach an agreement on the renewal of his contract”. This of course is in spite of the French designer doubling revenue and produced skyrocketing profits in just three years.

Not letting the uncertainty about his future get in the way of his talent, Slimane unveiled Saint Laurent’s autumn-winter men’s collection in Los Angeles (where he lives) instead of Paris during men’s fashion week. The star-studded show was not the first to be moved to the city once deemed too flashy. The likes of Burberry and Tom Ford have embraced the city of angels of late, thanks to the recent fashion boom.

Runway Beauty Trend: Springtime Glow

It is one of the simplest looks to recreate and, accordingly, it gives you an effortless look. Realizing this, beauty brands have focused on the natural no-makeup look for spring. The make-up trend lent a touch of brightness to the spring/summer 2016 runways. The radiant glow that is the highlight of the natural look rises above all other themes to inspire major cosmetics brands for the season. Be it subtle or bold, the season sees key looks that are light, bright, fresh with luminous skin and radiant eyes.

Radiant skin, softly sculpted cheeks

This season sees plenty of brands release skin palettes with formulations and colors to bring a bright, healthy glow to spring skin. Highlighting and illuminating powders are a must-have, with the likes of Dior and Yves Saint Laurent developing complexion-enhancing shade combinations formulated to correct imperfections and enhance natural radiance. Dior’s “Diorskin Nude Air Glowing Gardens” (SGD $94; USD $64) is a highlighting powder with an iridescent finish, whereas Yves Saint Laurent’s “Face Palette Collector Gypsy Opale” (Featured image above) combines several shades to correct imperfections and uneven skin tone (SGD $95; USD $55).

Dior's Diorskin Nude Air Glowing Gardens

Dior’s Diorskin Nude Air Glowing Gardens

The key product in any spring 2016 makeup bag has got to be blusher. For sculpting the face and adding a rosy glow, blusher brings a final flush of healthy color to any fresh-faced look. All the major beauty brands have cheek palettes out for this season. Dr Hauschka, for example, has rebooted its “Rouge Powder Duo” compact, presented in a “Comeback” version with two pink hues that add uplifting color to the face (USD $25). Paul & Joe Beauty has two blush options to add a radiant glow to springtime skin, with “Powder Blush” for sculpting (USD $19) and “Creamy Blush” for a natural glow without highlighting pores (USD $19).

Top: Paul & Joe Beauty "Powder Blush" and "Creamy Blush" Below: Dr Hauschka's "Rouge Powder Duo" compact "Comeback" version

Top: Paul & Joe Beauty “Powder Blush” and “Creamy Blush”
Below: Dr Hauschka’s “Rouge Powder Duo” compact “Comeback” version

Eyes get pretty pastels and subtle shimmer

There are even more options out there for eyes. Brands such as Lancôme and Dior opt for pretty, spring-inspired looks, with selections of soft, subtle shades, whereas Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent go for bolder, vibrant flashes of color.

Lancôme's "Hypnôse Palette"

Lancôme’s “Hypnôse Palette”

The spring 2016 edition of Lancôme’s iconic “Hypnôse Palette” matches four subtle eye shadow shades with one brighter, stronger color (SGD $75; USD $59), whereas Dior gives eyes a bucolic vibe with pretty colors inspired by a garden in bloom. Dior Beauty’s “5 Couleurs Glowing Gardens” eyeshadow palette is available in two versions for spring 2016 – “Rose Garden” and “Blue Garden” – both offering a selection of garden-inspired shades (SGD $104; USD $68 each).

Dior Beauty's "5 Couleurs Glowing Gardens" eyeshadow palette

Dior Beauty’s “5 Couleurs Glowing Gardens” eyeshadow palette

Eyes get a more vibrant flash of color at Chanel with the “Tissé Beverly Hills” edition of the brand’s iconic “Les 4 Ombres” palette (USD $57), sporting shades inspired by the sea, vegetation and California skies.

Chanel's "Tissé Beverly Hills" edition of the "Les 4 Ombres" palette

Chanel’s “Tissé Beverly Hills” edition of the “Les 4 Ombres” palette

The look can be completed with a classic black mascara, like “Velvet Noir Major Volume Mascara” from Marc Jacobs Beauty for XXL lashes (SGD $42; USD $31). Or why not add an electrifying pop of color with a brighter shade like Chanel’s “Le Volume de Chanel” mascara in “Ardent Purple” (USD $36) or Yves Saint Laurent’s “Volume Effet Faux Cils” mascara in pink or green (SGD $55; USD$37)?

Left to right: Marc Jacobs Beauty "Velvet Noir Major Volume Mascara''; Chanel's "Le Volume de Chanel" mascara in "Ardent Purple" ; Yves Saint Laurent's "Volume Effet Faux Cils" mascara in pink

Left to right: Marc Jacobs Beauty “Velvet Noir Major Volume Mascara”; Chanel’s “Le Volume de Chanel” mascara in “Ardent Purple” ; Yves Saint Laurent’s “Volume Effet Faux Cils” mascara in pink

YSL Debuts ‘Nuit Blanche’ Scent

The “Black Opium” fragrance from Yves Saint Laurent is now three times a winning scent, with the addition of the “All-Nighter”. The name is probably an allusion to the sort of romantic evening that unfolds at its own pace; the all-nighter of work and study is just too unsexy.

Already available as an Eau de Parfum and an Eau de Toilette, Yves Saint Laurent is making a third addition to its iconic “Black Opium” fragrance line with a new scent reportedly more intense, electric and feminine than ever. “Black Opium Nuit Blanche” is due out in February 2016.

This new take on “Black Opium” plays with the codes of the Eau de Parfum, drawing inspiration from the energy and darkness of a “nuit blanche” – or an all-nighter. The fragrance captures the spirit of a night that never ends with a scent evoking spontaneity, femininity and mystery.

Edie Campbell continues to front the Black Opium range

Edie Campbell continues to front the Black Opium range

“Black Opium Nuit Blanche” was developed for Yves Saint Laurent by a team of four renowned master perfumers: Nathalie Lorson, Marie Salamagne, Honorine Blanc and Olivier Cresp. The fragrance opens with notes of rice vapor and Bourbon pepper, followed by an orange flower absolute heart with notes of peony. This is lifted by the trademark coffee notes of “Black Opium,” together with vanilla, sandalwood essence and white musk.

The face of the fragrance since its launch in 2014, British model Edie Campbell, is back again to front the new version. The charismatic model captures the mood as a spontaneous and determined leading lady, shaking off her constraints to follow her instincts for total freedom all night long.

YSL’s “Black Opium Nuit Blanche” is due out in February from accredited retailers in 30 ml, 50 ml and 90 ml Eau de Parfum formats.

YSL_Black_Opium_PS_resize

Saint Laurent’s Ex Sells Prized Library

Book sales rarely ever make it onto luxury news feeds so this story is a pleasant departure. Six years after selling off his art collection in a record-breaking “sale of the century”, the French businessman and philanthropist Pierre Berge is now putting his renowned library under the hammer.

The lover and business partner of the late designer Yves Saint Laurent told AFP he is putting almost his entire collection up for auction, one of the most valuable in private hands. In fact, we’ve been waiting for this since we first picked up the story last year.

The sale of the couple’s art collection netted 342 million euros (US$361 million) in 2009, a year after the designer’s death from a brain tumor, then the highest figure ever for the sale of a private collection.

In the first of six sales which could raise a total of 40 million euros (US$42 million) for the charitable foundation he founded with Saint Laurent, 180 historic manuscripts and rare first editions including Saint Augustine’s Confessions printed in Strasbourg in 1470, and the original 1580 edition of the philosopher Montaigne’s Essays will be auctioned at Sotheby’s in Paris December 11.

But the most valuable item in the first sale, the original manuscript of Andre Breton’s surrealist masterpiece Nadja — worth an estimated 3.5 million euros — has already been snapped up by France’s national library.

Berge said that when he bought the book in London “I felt that I had got hold of a fragment of the True Cross”.

“But you have to know how to get rid of things,” Berge, 85, told AFP in his library on Paris’ Left Bank, saying he had been planning the clear-out for years and had even stipulated it in his will.

Escaped the Censor

Among the other literary treasures in the first sale is a first edition of Gustave Flaubert’s Madame Bovary dedicated to “the master” Victor Hugo, one of William Burrough’s scrapbooks and the only pages of a lost erotic work by the notorious Marquis de Sade, “The Days of Florbelle”, to have escaped the censor’s flames.

The young Berge, who was born on the Ile d’Oleron off western France, began collecting books at 18 after arriving in Paris and getting a job in an antiquarian bookshop.

He later befriended members of the city’s literati, including Breton and Jean Cocteau, one of whose books dedicated to him he is holding back from sale.

Another by Jean Giono, who was something of a father figure to him, and who is best known outside France for the film of his novel The Horsemen on the Roof, has also been withdrawn.

Berge said that he intended to “replace all the books in the library” with identical cheaper copies. “A lot will probably be more fun to read in paperback.”

“I came to love these books through reading, the collector part only came later,” he said.

Asked if he was worried about fears of falling auction prices, Berge said, “There is never a good time to sell. They said in 2009 (in the middle of the financial crisis) that it wasn’t a good time to sell…” his art collection, but it broke records.

Although known as a formidable deal-maker, Berge has been a lifelong supporter of left-wing causes and an advocate of gay rights.

He founded the AIDS charity Sidaction and the French gay magazine Tetu, with the vast proceeds of the sale of his and Saint Laurent’s art collection going to AIDS and HIV research.

He was close to former French president Francois Mitterrand and helped bankroll the failed presidential bid by Segolene Royal, the former partner of French President Francois Hollande, whose campaign for the Elysee he also supported.

Le Vestiaire des Parfums

Yves Saint Laurent creates a wardrobe of scents

Le Vestiaire des Parfums

The French luxury fashion brand presents a new fragrance range entitled “Le Vestiaire des Parfums” based on olfactory reinterpretation of YSL’s cult wardrobe pieces.

Iconic items like the Tuxedo, Caban (pea coat), Saharienne (safari tunic dress), Trench and Caftan (kaftan) have been transformed into exceptional scents that represent the origins and spirit of each piece.

After having conceived, sketched and designed a complete feminine wardrobe, Yves Saint Laurent beauty is now composing a perfume wardrobe inspired by iconic items that define the label’s history.

Caftan, trench, saharienne, caban and tuxedo are all pieces that have a masculine element to them if not simply gender neutral, yet each of these items have become a fixture of feminine chic in the style of Yves Saint Laurent. Now each iconic garment has been transformed into a signature scent for women.

A tailor-made perfume wardrobe

YSL Le Vestiaire des Parfums

The spirit and universe of each selected garment has been examined and analyzed to better understand its character before choosing the ingredients required. The aim of the fashion house was to create five fragrances that not only represented as truthfully as possible the original piece but also would evoke what each piece signified to the designer.

Characterized by the color black and a matte texture, the Tuxedo scent is represented by a mix of spices and patchouli; the comfortable aspect of Caban is interpreted by tonka bean and pink pepper whereas the sunny luminosity of the Saharienne is felt through notes of neroli and white musk. The exotic character of the Caftan is highlighted by notes of incense and benzoin while the refinement of the Trench is expressed through citrus-fruit notes and iris flower.

The Le Vestiaire des Parfums collection are launching this month in select stores and through the YSL site. Price: €240 for 125 ml (eau de parfum)

Yves Saint Laurent Is Returning to Couture

Saint Laurent Revives Couture

The latest campaign of the illustrious brand was shot in the new couture house of Yves Saint Laurent on Paris’s Left Bank.

Fresh from a three-year renovation process overseen by Saint Laurent creative director Hedi Slimane, the house follows 18th century French architecture and design.

Originally built in 1685 by architect Thomas Gobert, the house is called Hôtel de Sénecterre and it is located at 24 rue de l’Université.

The house has not shown a couture collection in over a decade, Vogue magazine notes.

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Or Rouge YSL

Or Rouge by Yves Saint Laurent

Yves Saint Laurent has unveiled its latest premium skincare product, a regenerating skin cream named Or Rouge.

Or Rouge is the company’s second glycan skin regeneration cream, and the first to harness the power of the expensive ancient spice saffron.

Or Rouge YSL

The name, which means ‘red gold,’ comes from the key ingredient, the saffron spice, which is harvested from crocus flowers picked in Morocco’s Atlas Mountains.

The key incredient are glycans, which play a key role in our skin’s ability to regenerate itself but decrease as we grow older.

The company calls the new formulation a ‘skin renaissance’ treatment and has based the product around the ‘Or Rouge GFC complex,’ a combination of the crocin (the glycan harvested from the crocus) and another X-Glycan, which also reportedly stimulates the skin’s capacity for self-renewal.

The product will get its global debut at Harrods in London in early February, before appearing in the United States on yslbeautyus.com in mid-March.

There will then be a wider global roll-out in April, with Chinese customers having to wait until September to get their hands on Or Rouge.

It will come in three sizes, starting at $150 for the 200-ml. lotion, $240 for the 15-ml. eye cream, and going up to $420 for the 50-ml. cream. YSL launched its first glycan product, the Forever Youth Liberator, back in 2012.

Saint Laurent closing Paris flagship for renovations

SAINT LAURENT PARIS FLAGSHIP 7

Just three months after opening the flagship location on Paris’s Avenue Montaigne, Saint Laurent will close the boutique in August to tweak the space. According to reports in WWD, creative director Hedi Slimane wishes to alter a number of design elements including the black concrete floor.

The store was first opened in May in time to introduce Slimane’s new architectural vision for the brand (lots of black and white marble, and sleek mirrored elements).

The closure is intended to allow the work to be done ahead of the fashion shows in September: “August’s typically calmer pace allowed for an opportunity to finalize and perfect the space for the beginning of the season,” said a spokesperson for the brand.

The move won’t shock Parisian customers who are used to the city closing down for business during the traditional holiday period in August, but might surprise a few luxury-loving foreign visitors in town for the summer.

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