Championing the trend for scrubbed-bare-don’t-care beauty was, unsurprisingly, Alexander Wang, whose ‘no concept’ makeup look was a hit during the Autumn/Winter 2016 shows a few months ago. Matte was the key trend here, with the models showing no signs of being made up at all, apart from a layer of mascara and shine-free faces. A matte base, a touch of highlighter at the inner corner of the eyes and a dab of gloss on the lips was all it took for the models at Proenza Schouler to make an impact (in contrast with some of the bold color used on ears at the show), while Lacoste also played it low-key, dabbing a touch of iridescent shadow on the models’ eyelids and leaving the rest of the face natural. Tory Burch (main picture) played around a little more with the concept, using inoffensive nude and soft golden tones for a sunkissed yet innocuous look.
The next level up was the budding trend for highlighting and strobing, which kept the beauty looks clean but added drama and glamour. Nicholas K used the technique perfectly on its models, using a subtle highlighter and shimmer to emphasize their cheekbones and eyes. Strobing was also the main beauty technique employed at Oday Shakar, where the models’ glowing skin and defined bone structure was showcased to the maximum, thanks to the hair, which was pulled-back from the face in simple, classic styles. Amsterdam-based label The Faux had a little more fun with the concept, using colored highlighters in pink and gold and coral-toned lipstick to emphasize the collection’s gender-fluid theme.
Despite the overwhelmingly understated approach to makeup, splashes of color did appear on the catwalks — notably at FTL Moda, where model and acid attack survivor Reshma Bano Qureshi stole the show with a look centered around warm fuchsia lipstick and golden eyeshadow. Jeremy Scott also incorporated rich gem tones into the beauty look to accompany his colorful, Eighties-influenced collection.