Tag Archives: John Galliano

Dior Celebrates 70 Years With New Book Collection

For its 70th anniversary, the illustrious fashion house Dior will be releasing a series of reference books. Each book will be dedicated to a popular designer who has worked under the House of Dior over the years.

The first, will feature Christian Dior who founded his eponymous label back in 1946. Following books will celebrate designers such as Yves Saint Laurent, who took over after the death of Dior in 1957; Marc Bohan was another designer who led the brand when Saint Laurent was called up for military service in 1960. The fourth book will feature Gianfranco Ferré who was the first Italian to lead the French brand in 1989.

John Galliano, who happens to be the most controversial creative director of the seven, will be featured in the fifth reference book. Galliano took on the role in 1996 but was dismissed in 2011 over alleged anti-Semitic remarks. The sixth volume will focus on Belgian designer Raf Simons who was the Creative Director from 2012 to 2015 while the final volume will feature Maria Grazia Chiuri who joined the brand in July this year.

Shot by photographer Laziz Hamani and accompanied with text by Olivier Saillard, the first volume of the series will be titled ‘Dior by Christian Dior’. The book is said to be the “ultimate compendium” of the most iconic haute couture designs by Dior himself. The publication will serve as a complete chronology of the designer’s work at the house, from his groundbreaking debut Spring/Summer 1947 collection famously known as the “New Look,” to his final ‘Fuseau’ Fall/Winter 1957 line. Featuring fashion pieces conserved in museums and institutions from around the world, the first series is set to be released next month while the remaining six will be published by Assouline between 2017 and 2018.

haider ackerman

Haider Ackermann Named Berluti Artistic Director

In a move that caught us – and almost everyone else too – by surprise, designer Haider Ackermann has been named the new Artistic Director of the luxury menswear label Berluti. Ackermann’s Wikipedia page not yet been updated with this new. There hasn’t even been any speculation linking him with the LVMH label, even though once a time many people were suggesting him as a possible replacement for John Galliano at Christian Dior. Ackermann was also a contender for the top job at Maison Martin Margiela, when Martin Margiela was himself still involved.

Ackermann, a designer more widely known for the womenswear collections under his eponymous label than for his menswear pieces, will take up the position with immediate effect. He will present his first collection for the LVMH brand during Men’s Fashion Week in January 2017.

The Colombian designer launched his brand in 2003, adding a menswear line in 2013.

“I am sure that his vision will bring a unique opportunity to Berluti,” said CEO Antoine Arnault, son of Bernard Arnault and architect of Berluti’s current success, after he merged it with French suitmaker Arnys.

Focus: Miuccia Prada and Fashion Intellectualism

Perhaps the most powerful woman in fashion is Miuccia Prada. You know the story: the Italian-born woman went to mime school, got a PhD in political science from the University of Milan, then joined Fratelli Prada (the family business) out of a sense of obligation. Serendipitous commitments sometimes produce the best results and Mrs Prada has since led the brand towards its status as a global fashion powerhouse, luxury icon and, for industry devotees, an endless source of powerful and intelligent collections.SS04_28

Rare is the designer who shows us things we recoil from yet feel drawn to. Prada collections are famously called ugly-chic, and it’s interesting to explore the connotations of “ugly” where high fashion is concerned. The ugly Miuccia Prada proposes is polarizing. “When I started, everybody hated what I was doing except a few clever people,” she says, in an interview with Alexander Fury of the Independent. Indeed, dissecting a new season’s catwalk offerings are a challenge. The styling, by Olivier Rizzo, never plays on the commercial safe-side of New York, the cerebral avant-garde of London, the glamour and sex of Milan, or the refined romanticism of Paris. Instead, what one commonly gets from Prada is a whoop of confusion and the inexplicable draw of desire.

Unlike the sometimes threatening, maddening and manic genius of creators like Alexander McQueen or John Galliano, Prada produces with a silver-spooned rebelliousness that stems not from the gut but the mind. A lifelong understanding of luxury combined with her nonconformity results in collections that challenge the here and now and offer us what could and should be. Therein lies her power and talent: to discomfort you and confront you with ideas not yet conventional, though bound to be commonplace, give or take a season or two.

THE BEAUTY OF PRADA_LO

A primer into Prada’s career is incomplete without a history lesson. It’s best to consider Mrs Prada’s start and her early days at the brand to understand how she is the forecaster today, psychically almost, of our changing definitions of beauty. The famous start came not with ready-to-wear, which is now the creative engine of the house, but with bags. Then again, Prada was in the best place to design bags – the company was a legacy Italian house, supplying the royal family with luxury leather goods. The ironic and telling twist to the legacy was in Prada producing a bag in functional black nylon with minimal leather trimming. The reductive and austere style seemed to fight back against the excesses of the ’90s. Miuccia was offering us a new beauty in 1989: that less was more, and cheap could be beautiful.

THE BEAUTY OF PRADA_LO

’90s Prada

Determining Prada’s core philosophy starts with the early work in the ’90s. Considered a golden period in fashion, the greats like Delacroix, Galliano, Gaultier, Saint Laurent were in full creative renaissance with their overblown romanticism, fantasy and dramatically evocative collections. The ’90s were also the pioneering era of Jil Sander, Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo, Martin Margiela, Helmut Lang – the leaders of cerebral, austere and conceptually-driven clothing. Miuccia fit the equation of the times almost perfectly. “I always loved and still love [to dress myself]” she said, in an interview for Document Journal. The clothes presented were intelligent, created with concepts as a thrust, and captured the imagination of the woman, who like Miuccia, wanted to be clothed beautifully without verging on vanity.

The work of Prada in the ’90s is, in this writer’s opinion, the finest. The attitudes offered were contrary to the times – rather than cutting dresses on the bias, attaching superfluous flounces, or creating with dazzling palettes, Prada made simple clothes in blacks, whites, greys – neutrals that quietly emanated elegance. When Armani and Jil Sander did consistent minimalism and muted tones, Prada overturned the aesthetic every season and jumped into a wider colour palette. She was challenging both decade’s leading notions of beauty by suggesting we keep it simple: thoughtful clothes that look great.

THE BEAUTY OF PRADA_LO

’00s Prada

Incremental changes suggested, from the year 2000 onwards, that Prada was enjoying putting more on her models. We began to see embellishments, embroidery, sequins, paillettes, ruffles, lace, volume – the kind of pretty things that characterize feminine dress, but rendered with piercing precision. Making their way into the wardrobe were colors like burgundy, lavender and green, cast in heavy reflective fabrics (as in SS07) that form the backbone of Prada’s color play.

Unrelenting focus on luxury and fabric meant more outings of silk, fur, brocades, velvet etc. Difficult materials, surely, but ones that were melded and combined to Miuccia’s exacting eye, ensuring saleable desirability. Observe, too, how the propositions of Prada’s soft suiting, layered coats and emphasis on cardigans influenced the dress of women in this decade. Her influence was not lost on the rest of the industry. Alexander Fury famously called her ‘the most-copied woman in fashion’ and the strength of her vision lent itself to the same kind of emulation by other designers and fashion students, that only Azzedine Alaïa’s, Martin Margiela’s and Nicolas Ghesquière’s (at Balenciaga) work garnered.

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’10s Prada

Much of the pining for ’90s Prada is hugely ironic and a great laugh if you consider this: the clean lines and mono-tonality she introduced in the past is now the dress of the day. Minimalism has been the buzzword for the first half of this decade, and Prada’s early influence has appeared to catch on en masse. Because Prada is and Prada does, the response is, then, to go the opposite way. FW12 saw the increased use of beauty on the runway shows. Previously, the look had been simple: no-makeup makeup, essentially. For FW12, heavily lined and painted eyes; for SS13, punk kimonos with mussed up pixie cuts and vivid lips; for SS15, desert women with a scalpel-like graphic eye and stringy hair; for FW15, babied-up Lolitas with the nubile flush of youth; and most recently for SS16, pallid gold-lipped beauties.

In total, Prada has produced 58 women’s collections since the Spring of 1988, and we are fortunate to continue to watch her fight the tide of convention’s dictum of beauty. Most recently, we saw the culmination and creative peak of her contemporary work for her FW16 collection, parts of which were presented as PF16 during the MFW16 runway show. The set: modelled after a public square, the purpose of which was forum and viewing by the people; spoke volumes in its inanimate silence about the over-exposed nature of the industry. The clothes: windswept and tattered shirts layered under sophisticated coats, outerwear for those needing protection, and trinkets piled and chained to bags. The concept: troubled times reconfigure our priorities and sweep (quite literally) away antiquated notions of beauty; the Prada woman is putting herself back together and holding on for dear life while seeking the aesthete’s hauteur.

Unsurprisingly, this collection is bound to sell well. It has successfully carried on the codes of the brand from the ’90s that made it so beloved: smarts, austerity, and a silently defiant luxury; while representing the anti-aesthetic of today: over-rich detailing, audacious layering despite concerns about global warming, and a refusal to go easy on its audience. That is to say Miuccia Prada will succeed again because she has captured exactly what beauty isn’t yet, but will soon be.

“In total, Prada has produced 58 women’s collections since the Spring of 1988, and we are fortunate to continue to watch her fight the tide of convention’s dictum of beauty.”

Story Credits

By Gordon Ng

This article was originally published in L’Officiel.

10 Top Trends for Autumn/Winter 2016-17

The end of fashion collection shows in New York, London, Milan and Paris, completes the full range of Autumn/Winter 2016-17 trends. With the fashion world still split on whether pieces in collections should go for sale immediately during the season or whether a delay is required to make the best of what they have, it seems that some designers are inspired by this tussle to mix it up a bit. Spring styles seemed to have bled a bit into Winter, among other stylistic ambiguities that made for an interesting series of Fashion Weeks.

Dreams of Spring

AW1617-Trends-Spring-Colors

Dark and neutral shades such beige, white, brown, black, and blue are the normal palette staples for a wintry and cool hue but this time, spring came through. The cool hues were still dominant but lighter melds and more springlike tones intruded. Liselore Frowijn, Chanel, Fendi, Gucci and Francesco Scognamiglio cheered winter up with pastel explosions, bolder brights, and gay color. New York, though, stood apart from the rest, as, other than a few (notably Michael Kors), that Fashion Week kept to the dark, muted palette.

 

Blue is the new Black

AW1617-Trends-BlueFrom petrol blue to pastel blue; from midnight and electric blue to navy and lavender – all these served as counterpoints to timeless black. Versace, Diesel Black Gold and Fendi went big on blue while Rahul Mishra, Eudon Choi, Marni, Dolce & Gabbana, and Missoni presented looks in the color or used blue in smaller touches. Just see how much blue you can spot in this very story!

Denim, normally a famous blue, was less present than previous seasons but still featured in collections from Chanel, Stella McCartney, Blumarine and Ujoh.

 

Eye-Catching DetailsAW1617-Trends-Embellishment

Continuing the eccentric vibe of the season are eyecatching embellishments mixed with outstanding patterns sitting alongside and contrasting with minimalist designs. Such occurs normally with the clash of multiple trends but in this case such details featured in almost all labels’ collection to some extent. Dolce & Gabbana flashed it up with diamanté, alongside golden, mirror-effect embellishments and metallic Lurex while Saint Laurent used bold detail in a different way more suited to the collection’s retro stylings.

 

Flashy FursAW1617-Trends-Fur

Fur in color was another staple among labels, whether finished with multi-colored horizontal stripes or vivid shades verging on the fluroscent, or packed with prints. Fendi set the tone with pieces, detailing and accessories all made from brightly colored fur while Ermanno Scervino brought smaller touches of it to hoods and collars. Ellery finished fur in red, pink and burgundy, while Saint Laurent went for electric shades.

 

Winter’s OuterwearAW1617-Trends-Outerwear

To combat the cold, coats, jackets, parkas and down jackets are firm fixtures of the season. Going the whole range from classical and functional to extravagant, outerwear this season is sure to fit all kinds of tastes, leaving something for everyone. Zips were a key feature for many, sometimes used as embellishment, but other times allowing big coats transform into lightweight outdoor garments. One key trend — seen in particular at Léa Peckre, Burberry and Narciso Rodriguez — is a masculine coat with a long, wide cut, worn over a lightweight dress, a sure sign of designers thinking beyond traditional seasons. Oversized coats will be big news this winter but down jackets and parkas with touches of fur or color — as spotted at 3.1 Phillip Lim and Rag&Bone — will be popular too. Chanel went for a more classic, highly feminine padded jacket.

 

Gender BendingAW1617-Trends-Unisex

Beyond the seasonal mix-up came unisex silhouettes and garments inspired by menswear. On the whole, though, the trend was still highly feminine looks with a few masculine details. Collections involved in the masculine/feminine trend include Paul Smith, John Galliano, Paul & Joe and Victoria Beckham. Some showed suit jackets with big shoulders and wide-cut trousers. Lots of other labels though — like Gucci, Mugler and Elie Saab — previewed more feminine, sensual collections.

 

Nightwear for DaytimeAW1617-Trends-Nightwear

Lingerie and sleepwear made their appearance on the runways as outerwear in autumn/winter collections. Lingerie-style dresses worn under thick, heavy coats, like at Sonia Rykiel, as well as dressing gowns and pajama pants were also spotted on the catwalk for a laid-back daytime look. This trend was mostly seen on the Italian catwalk, at Trussardi, Missoni, Gucci and Roberto Cavalli.

 

Land-Sailors

Edie Campbell

Other designers rode on a sailor or seafaring theme with sweaters, pants and sailor-style buttoning, all in a palette of navy blue, red and yellow. Cédric Charlier went particularly big on sailor chic in a collection inspired by old photos of retro seamen. Y/Project, Prada and Tommy Hilfiger also showed nautical looks.

 

Size MattersAW1617-Trends-Oversized

Wide, baggy, and even oversized pants were prominent, although skinny cuts were still present. Chalayan went for wide-cut leather pants, Jacquemus matched them with a huge-shouldered XXL jacket, Giorgio Armani printed them with patterns and Ralph Lauren gave them a high waist. Shiatzy Chen, on the other hand, had loose-cut pants with patterns and transparent effects.

 

Sleek SportinessAW1617-Trends-Sportswear

Some brought hints of a sporty style to their autumn/winter collections, while others jumped into sportswear head first. Among those adding a few sportswear pieces to feminine, urban collections, or leaving discreet touches of sportiness are Carven, Alexis Mabille, Alexander Wang and, of course, Tommy Hilfiger. There were some interesting collaborations in the sportswear arena too, such as Fenty x Puma by Rihanna.

All images are courtesy of AFP.

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2014: a year of arrivals and departures in fashion

In the world of fashion, 2014 will be remembered as a year of personnel changes, including a number of surprising twists and turns.

Between bittersweet departures and exciting new beginnings, here are the highlights of this game of musical chairs between designers and labels.

Nicolas Ghesquière at Louis Vuitton

Nicolas Ghesquière

Though the news was announced last year, it was in March 2014 that Nicolas Ghesquière presented his first collection for Louis Vuitton, which entered a new era after the departure of Marc Jacobs.

The Frenchman certainly seems to have lived up to expectations, attracting unanimous praise from fashion journalists for his retro-inspired debut line for the label. And it’s more than just beginner’s luck: the second collection, presented last September, garnered just as much acclaim.

Alexander Wang at Balenciaga

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After Ghesquière left for Vuitton, Balenciaga had to find another master couturier to fill his shoes. Alexander Wang was up to the task. Living up to his reputation, the designer has presented successful collections for the Italian house, all while continuing to run his own eponymous label.

Peter Copping at Oscar de la Renta

British designer Peter Copping

After several years at Nina Ricci, the British designer was named creative director at Oscar de la Renta just days before the death of the American label’s founder on October 20.

While Copping had initially planned to collaborate closely with the Dominican designer on his first line, which will be presented at New York fashion week in February 2015, he was ultimately left to his own devices.

The fashion world is already looking forward to his collection, which is bound to be a vibrant homage.

Guillaume Henry leaves Carven

Guillaume Henry leaves Carven

The rumor made the rounds at Spring-Summer 2015 fashion week in Paris and was confirmed a few days later. After five years of loyal and dedicated service, the man behind the revival of the Carven house finally decided to pack his bags and move on… to replace Copping at Nina Ricci.

John Galliano at Maison Martin Margiela

John Galliano Dior

In what was likely the year’s most earth-shattering development in fashion, John Galliano announced his big comeback.

The disgraced designer, who once seemed poised to take over at Oscar de la Renta, will present his first collection for Maison Martin Margiela at Paris couture week in January.

Taking on even more responsibility than he previously held at Dior (where he worked for 15 years), Galliano will head up men’s and women’s ready-to-wear as well as haute couture at the label. In other words, make way for the new master of the MMM house.

Johnny Coca at Mulberry

Johnny Coca

In turmoil since Emma Hill’s departure in June 2013, Mulberry has struggled to find a new creative director and to return to its former glory.

While the house encountered some success with its handbags designed by Cara Delevingne, the need to bring in a new leader was increasingly felt.

Finally, in November, the label announced that it had found its potential savior: Johnny Coca, who is currently in charge of accessories at Céline.

And judging by his work at the French label, the designer is bound to do wonders for Mulberry, where he is due to arrive on July 8, 2015.

John Galliano Dior

John Galliano joins Maison Martin Margiela

John Galliano Dior

 has announced the appointment of rock-star designer John Galliano as its creative director.

“Margiela is ready for a new charismatic creative soul,” said Renzo Rosso, president of OTB, the company that controls MMM.

“Galliano is one of the greatest, undisputed talents of all time — a unique, exceptional couturier for a maison that always challenged and innovated the world of fashion. I look forward to his return to create that fashion dream that only he can create, and wish him to here find his new home.”

 is expected to present his first collection for the label at haute couture fashion week in Paris next January. He will also be in charge of the brand’s women’s and men’s ready-to-wear collections.

A change of direction for the brand 

Let’s make no bones about it: Maison Martin Margiela has done a complete 180-degree turn on its traditional strategy by hiring John Galliano.

Alongside his serious couture skills, the British designer has always been known as the epitome of a certain sort of fashion exuberance, drama and showmanship, which very often put Galliano at the center stage too.

The list of extravangant outfits worn as he strutted out onto the catwalk to take his bows runs long.

Contrast this with the quiet, positively hermit-like atmosphere around Maison Martin Margiela, both under the eponymous founding designer and following his silent departure, where the clothes were left to do the talking and the team behind them went publicly unnamed.

That was until Design Director Matthieu Blazy was unmasked this July by Vogue’s Suzy Menkes as the face behind the clothes.

“You can’t keep such a talent under wraps,” explained Menkes, but both the house and the designer disagreed and Blazy left his job this summer. That left the role wide open for Galliano to step into the breach. How he’ll operate back at the captain’s helm will be fascinating to watch.

The age of anonymity isn’t over

All that said, this doesn’t mean that the anonymous approach doesn’t work; it just means that it wasn’t working for Margiela, if the decisions ordered by Renzo Rosso, Diesel founder and boss of Margiela’s parent company Only The Brave, are anything to go by.

“Margiela is ready for a new charismatic creative soul,” he explained in a statement released Monday, calling Galliano one of “the greatest, undisputed talents of all time” and “a unique, exceptional couturier.”

Despite Rosso’s embrace of a big personality, brands are still using anonymity both as a marketing tool and occasionally as a legal necessity.

New Parisian label Vêtements, which showed a second collection (and a first ever runway show) in Paris last month, is headed up by former Margiela alumnus Demna Gvasalia. Gvasalia has only just revealed his name (previously hidden due to contractual obligations), while other members of the team are still working secretly.

In the age of internet privacy leaks and haute couture masks (merci Margiela) the whole anonymity issue has been at the forefront of popular culture for a while now; the public loves a guessing game.

Final forgiveness for Galliano 

Galliano spent plenty of time out in the cold after his shocking arrest and prosecution for anti-Semitic rants on the streets of Paris, followed by a public apology and lengthy treatment for addiction issues.

His public penance seems to have worked. In February last year he was defended by the Anti-Defamation League after continued tabloid attacks.

“Mr. Galliano has been on a pilgrimage to learn from and grow from his mistakes,” explained Abraham H. Foxman, ADL National Director. “He is trying very hard to atone.”

Later last year he was welcomed into the atelier of fellow designer Oscar de la Renta in New York City, where he helped with the 82-year-old’s Fall/Winter 2013 collection, but he didn’t stay permanently.

He’s also spent some time as creative director at Russian cosmetics company L’Etoile.

This latest role suggests that both the designer and the public are ready for his return to the spotlight. We can’t wait to see the results.

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John Galliano working for Russian beauty chain

John Galliano Moscow

Disgraced British fashion designer , little-seen since being sacked by Dior in 2011 for making drunken racist tirades, reappeared in Moscow Thursday as creative director of a Russian cosmetics chain.

The L’Etoile chain, which has some 850 branches in more than 250 Russian towns, did not skimp on the event which took place in one of the most exclusive Moscow suburbs. Galliano appeared for just a few seconds, in a halo of orange smoke, at the end of the show.

“This is an opportunity and a great challenge for me,” he said later, in an interview with the official Itar-Tass news agency. “I am confident that our partnership will lead to new and exciting events in the world of beauty for Russian women. I think the results will be beautiful and inspiring,” he added.

Galliano, who spent nearly 15 years at Dior, is widely considered to be one of the most brilliant fashion minds of his generation.

However, his rehabilitation following the racism scandal has been difficult and he has been rarely seen at public events since then.

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Dior taking its time to find Galliano successor

Dior Fall Winter 2012 Haute Couture show

Christian Dior is in no hurry to name a successor to the disgraced John Galliano as creative director, its chief executive Sidney Toledano said on Monday.

“You know when you ask young girls all the time when they are going to get married, they reply: When I find the right man,” he told AFP as the Paris fashion house sent out its first post-Galliano haute couture collection.

Dior will “take all its time” in finding “a long-term solution”, Toledano said, adding: “All options are open for the future.”
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John Galliano sacked from own label

Galiano photo

John Galliano, sacked as chief designer at Christian Dior amid a furore over alleged anti-Semitic remarks, has now been fired from his eponymous label.

Women’s Wear Daily said Galliano, 50, had been “formally sacked” by directors of the John Galliano label, which is 91 percent owned by Dior.

It added that a sell-off of the upmarket label was not an immediate priority for the owners, despite “unsolicited expressions of interest in the business” coming in from China, Italy and the Middle East.
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Dior suspends chief designer John Galliano

john galliano suspended

Dior suspends chief designer John Galliano following his arrest for alleged assault

French police briefly detained British fashion designer John Galliano in Paris on Thursday evening for alleged assault and making anti-Semitic remarks

The detention in Paris’ fashionable Marais district came after Dior’s chief designer allegedly verbally accosted a couple seated on a cafe terrace. Galliano’s lawyer strongly denied accusations of anti-Semitism.
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Karl lagerfeld coca cola light bottles

A New Breed of Fashion Collaborations

karl lagerfeld coca cola light bottle

This week, the Berlin-based fashion designer Esther Perbandt joins the long list of style icons who have lent their creative vision to everyday objects ranging from jackets for Prosecco bottles to macaroons.

Here’s a roundup of the most buzz-worthy collaborations between renowned designers and non-fashion retailers in 2010.
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Claridge’s Galliano Christmas tree is all at sea

Once again, Dior’s head fashion designer John Galliano is returning to The Claridge’s Hotel in London for the holidays with his Dior Christmas Tree.

For 2010, Galliano is creating a truly dazzling design, using the ocean as his muse for his “Under the Sea” Christmas tree.

Made of sparkling silver leaves, pink coral, sea horses, fish, anemones, starfish and jelly fish, this whimsical design is truly one of a kind.

Last year he designed an Asian-inspired tree (pictured below) that featured snow leopards, dragon flies and parrots among its baby blue, “frozen” branches.
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John Galliano for Ladurée

maaroon laduree john galliano

John Galliano will be collaborating with famous Parisian pastry café Ladurée to release limited edition macarons.

The Dior designer’s macaroons – which come in boxes of either 6, 12, or 18 – pay tribute to his new perfume Parlez-Moi d’Amour.

He chose rose and ginger flavors and created a limited edition box featuring references to the new fragrance.
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Dior Eyes Contact Lenses

John Galliano launched in 2004 a line of contact lenses that feature circles of glitter, gold or black to outline the iris.

The colours only covers around the iris, but what’s special about them is that they showcase the famous “CD” logo.

Dior Eyes, which are currently on sale in stores throughout Europe, retail at between $100 and $145.
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Dior Glossy Gold Limited Edition Sunglasses

John Galliano marks the fifth anniversary of his top selling Dior Glossy sunglasses collection with a limited edition called Dior Glossy Gold.

The Glossy line launched five years ago, inspired by the oversized shapes of the 1970s. The new limited edition glasses stay true to the original model.

With its extralarge lenses and curved frame in metallic colours, the Dior Glossy was instantly adopted by countless stars, making it Dior’s best seller.
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