Tag Archives: patek philippe

Titanium Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time for Charity Auction

In 2017, there were two essential Patek Philippe auctions – One for Only Watch 2017 held in October, where the star of the charity fundraiser was a Patek Philippe Ref. 5208T-010 aka Triple Complication Chronograph with perpetual calendar and minute repeater hammering for US$6.2 million. The kicker was that the Patek Triple Complication was built in titanium, a material that has never been used before on this reference and used even rare still by Patek Philippe. For 2018, Patek Philippe is set to help another good cause. Creating the first and only titanium version of the Ref. 5524 Calatrava Pilot Travel Time for Children Action charity auction.

Titanium Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time for Charity Auction

Children Action is a Geneva-based children’s organization dedicated to helping “children not helped by life, because the most fundamental of all human rights is the right to a childhood.” Patek Philippe has been supporting charity auctions like Children Action and Only Watch with piece unique titanium references.

Previous editions of Titanium Patek Philippe references at Children Action Charity Auction include 2015’s Patek Philippe Ref. 5396T which sold for a cool CHF 1 million; before that the maison also participated in 2009 where Patek Philippe’s one-of-a-kind Ref. 5180T titanium skeleton model was sold for CHF 520,000. Back in 2007, Patek Philippe also produced another titanium model for Children Action auction- a titanium Calatrava, Patek Philippe Ref. 6000T

Christie’s has the honour and privilege to host the latest Titanium Ref. 5524 Calatrava Pilot Travel Time for the Children Action auction of October 15, 2018. It is the only titanium version of the Patek Ref. 5524 Calatrava Pilot Travel Time ever made (current editions are in white or rose gold) and it is equipped with hand finished black dial  with a vertical satin finish and dressed with vintage black calfskin strap with contrast stitching. The sapphire-crystal case back displays the exquisitely decorated automatic Patek caliber 324 S C FUS and bears the inscription “Children Action 2018”. This unique timepiece will be on display during their Geneva Rare Watches preview on May 11th thru the 13th.

Details of the Children Action Auction for the Titanium Ref. 5524 Calatrava Pilot Travel Time

Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues
33 Quai des Bergues
1201 Geneva

 

Rare Patek Philippe Calatrava Sets Groundbreaking Record in Heritage Auctions

May 1 in New York City, a record was set in the Watches & Fine Timepieces Auction in horological history. Star watch of interest: Rare Patek Philippe Calatrava – sold for $642,500, the highest sale for a Ref. 2526 of any precious metal.

“An extraordinary watch, which makes it extremely appealing to the most serious collectors” Heritage Auctions Director of Timepieces Jim Wolf on the rare vintage Patek Philippe Calatrava

Launched in 1953, the Ref. 2526 houses Patek Philippe’s first ever self-winding calibre 12-600AT, a Calatrava with the first series enamel dial, retailed by “Tiffany & Co., was widely recognised by watch connoisseurs of the era as the finest automatic movement ever made. It looks like today, even in modern context, the perfection of this Patek Philippe Calatrava, coupled with extreme rarity (very limited references exist) is enough to let this vintage Patek Philippe Calatrava set new groundbreaking records at a recent Heritage auction. Amongst those references, Ref. 2526 is probably one of the most collectable due to the fact that it is the only example with both Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co. signatures known to exist.

Heritage was proud to present this highly important timepiece to the collector’s community. According to Heritage Auctions Director of Timepieces Jim Wolf, the rare Patek Philippe Calatrava is “an extraordinary watch, which makes it extremely appealing to the most serious collectors”. Thus, it was to no surprise that it attain particularly strong results from the 556-lot auction. Fresh to the market and presented without cosmetic alterations to the dial, case, crystal or original platinum bracelet, the timepiece includes its Extract from the Archives, stating the date of manufacture as 1954, and date of sale September 29, 1955.

Rare Patek Philippe with dual Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co. signatures on the dial known to exist.

Though it made headlines at the Heritage Auctions with a world record, this Patek Philippe 2526 wasn’t the only rare bid featured in the highly curated auction. Other competitive rare timepieces from the Geneva manufacture were the Ref. 5970J-001 and Ref. 3417. At conclusion, the auction had 93.2 percent of all lots sold and closed with a total sale of US$3,715,166.

See below for other top lots:

  • Patek Philippe, Ref. 5070G-001, Unused Double Sealed, White Gold Chronograph, Circa 2008: $71,875
  • Patek Philippe, Ref. 3800/3P, Platinum Nautilus, 38 mm, Circa 1992: $68,750
  • Rolex, Ref: 4467, “Ovettone” Pre-DateJust, Luminous Dial and Hands, Circa 1947: $50,000
  • Rolex, 18k YG Ref. 1675, GMT-Master, From The Private Collection Of Hollywood Actor James “Jimmy” Darren, circa 1972: $40,000
  • Rolex Ref. 228206 Platinum Day-Date 40 President: $37,500
  • Patek Philippe, Ref: 5059J-001,18k Gold Retrograde Perpetual Calendar, Circa 2005: $37,500
  • Rolex Ref. 218206 Platinum & Diamond Day-Date II President: $37,500

50th Anniversary of the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse

After the Calatrava, the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse is the second oldest watch in the maison. Patek Philippe recently celebrated the 50th anniversary of the cult watch (we say “cult” because the Golden Ellipse is not as popular as it should be) at Baselworld 2018 by seeking specialist artisans to create a 100 piece limited edition series of Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse sets, each consisting of a platinum watch and matching cuff links.

History: 50th Years of the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse

Launched in 1968, the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse managed to achieve cult status as a symbol of the Geneva manufacture’s audacious yet harmonious vision for innovative watch design. At the time, the old elliptical case, a progenitor of the modern form watches popularised by Genta, was a blend of circle and rectangle in balance proportions inspired by the “golden section” aka golden ratio – the so called divine proportions of 1:1.6181. And thus imbued with this legendary aesthetic ratio long discovered by mathematicians and used by Ancient Greek artisans in creating the Parthenon, Patek Philippe created an architectural and artistic masterpieces in their Ref. 3548 Golden Ellipse, a svelte 27 x 32mm Patek Philippe dress watch so completely unlike the famed Calatrava, featuring a  blue-gold dial with sunburst effect.

The embodiment of two venerable art forms - engraving and enamel arts, the 2018 Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse 5738/50P-001 is a 100-watch limited edition that pays tribute to the 50th anniversary of the Golden Ellipse.

The embodiment of two venerable art forms – engraving and enamel arts, the 2018 Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse 5738/50P-001 is a 100-watch limited edition that pays tribute to the 50th anniversary of the Golden Ellipse.

By the 1970s, the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse had become adopted as an accessorial synonym for class and elegance and just shy of the 80s, the popularity of the Golden Ellipse had led to 65 unique variations in a myriad of sizes and precious materials. At its peak in 1979, Patek Philippe released three iterations, the Ref. 3880, Ref. 3858 and the 3839/1 where the Golden Ellipse adopted a more circle in square (as opposed to rectangle) case shape like the 3739/2 from 1977. Such where the many variations and play on shapes that in 1981, the boldest Golden Ellipse was a Nautilus Ellipse.

In its history, the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse has been paired in a variety of leather straps and metal bracelets in braided, chained and milanaise executions as well as dial colours and hour marker appliques. The famous ellipse design was eventually adopted for luxurious accessories such as cufflinks, rings and lighters.

 

Baselworld 2018 Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse 5738/50P-001: A limited edition fusion of rare handcrafts

The embodiment of two venerable art forms – engraving and enamel arts, the 2018 Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse 5738/50P-001 is a 100-watch limited edition that pays tribute to the 50th anniversary of the Golden Ellipse. The dial of the new 2018 Golden Ellipse is remarkably distinctive thanks to its 18k white gold engraved volute pattern set within black enamel. A single dial takes hours of work from a single master engraver, the slightest mistake mars the glossy enamel background and he has to start once again.

The crown of the new Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse is set with an onyx cabochon with the same color as the black enamel dial.

The crown of the new Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse is set with an onyx cabochon with the same color as the black enamel dial.

The hours and minutes are indicated with delicate satin-finished white gold cheveu hands, a dance of time across a delicately engraved stage reminiscent of the Calatrava cross, all serving to emphasize the harmony of the case’s golden ratio. The case back in solid platinum is decorated with the commemorative engraving “Ellipse d’Or 1968–2018”. The crown is set with an onyx cabochon with the same color as the black enamel dial. And as all Patek Philippe platinum watches, the Ref. 5738/50P-001 features a diamond set in the caseband at 6 o’clock.

The classic elegance of the new 2018 Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse with engraved enamel is borne with black hand stitched alligator strap and a platinum prong buckle echoing the shape of the elliptical case. The limited-edition Golden Ellipse comes in a box with white-gold cuff links featuring in the exclusive Golden Ellipse design: the black enamel inlay showcases hand-engraved volutes around a Calatrava cross.

2018 Golden Ellipse Jumbo 5738R-001

In 2008, Patek Philippe debuted a grand-taille Golden Ellipse in platinum to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the collection. Grand-taille or ‘large’ was an appellation to introduce watch connoisseurs to a “jumbo” edition of the Golden Ellipse collection oft perceived (rightly so) to only encompass diminutive dress watches. Although it can be argued that the 1977 36.4mm Ref. 3739/2 was already “large-ish”, officially, the provenance of the jumbo version Golden Ellipse begins in the maison’s recent history. For the 50th anniversary of the the Golden Ellipse, Patek Philippe, a new grand-taille version arises, this time in rose gold.

 For the 50th anniversary of the the Golden Ellipse, Patek Philippe, a new grand-taille version arises, this time in rose gold.

For the 50th anniversary of the the Golden Ellipse, Patek Philippe, a new grand-taille version arises, this time in rose gold.

For Baselworld 2018, Patek Philippe pairs the Ref. 5738R-001 Golden Ellipse in the warm glow of the polished precious metal with an ebony black sunburst dial adorned with applied hour markers and delicate cheveu hands in rose gold. A black onyx cabochon set in the winding crown rounds out the harmony of this timepiece. As in the other Golden Ellipse models, the strap attachment is discreetly concealed beneath the caseband. Matching cuff links in rose gold with sunburst ebony black inlays are also available with the latest Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse.

Editor’s Note: The new Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738R-001 in rose gold complements the grand-taille version in platinum with a blue dial. The smaller Ref. 3738/100 in yellow, white, and rose gold has been discontinued.

Limited 100-watch edition Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/50P-001 Price and Specs

Movement Automatic Calibre 240 with 48 hours power reserve
Case 34.5mm platinum case protected against moisture and dust
Strap Alligator leather
Price SG$119,500 (incl. cufflinks)

Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738R-001 Price and Specs

Movement Automatic Calibre 240 with 48 hours power reserve
Case 34.5mm rose gold case protected against moisture and dust
Strap Alligator leather
Price SG$40,700

Affordable High End Chronograph: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph 5968A

When it comes to high end luxury sports chronographs, many count the Omega Speedmaster, Rolex Daytona and the Patek Philippe 5980 Nautilus Chronograph among the many grail watches to own. For 2018, watch lovers can add the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph 5968A to the list, likely to be one of the more affordable high end sports-luxury chronographs (in relative terms of brand positioning) on the market to date.

Affordable High End Chronograph: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph 5968A

The Patek Philippe 5980 Nautilus Chronograph debuted in 2006, the same year the Nautilus celebrated its 30th anniversary. If you wanted one today, it costs SG$82,200. Enter the new Baselworld 2018 Aquanaut Chronograph or Patek 5968A. Costing SG$57,700, it’s one of Patek Philippe’s most affordable high end luxury sports chronographs with a fashionable if youthful new colour-way, orange!

After surprising watch connoisseurs with the first perpetual calendar in the Patek Philippe Nautilus collection, the new Aquanaut Chronograph is also a first for the Patek Philippe Aquanaut collection since 1997. Where the Nautilus was considered a bridge between dressy and sportive luxury timekeeping, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut was the brand’s first truly purpose-built sports watch and as its namesake would imply, aquatic sports in particular. Thus, for 21 years, the maison never really saw a need for a chronograph model in the collection.

That said, the Aquanaut was notable for one distinction – it was a five digit luxury sports model with a rubber strap, a first for the industry and a first for the brand; especially when you consider that its peers, even the behemoth Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore were launched with steel bracelets. Launched at Baselworld 2018, the new Aquanaut Chronograph joins two other models – a time-and-date and travel time editions.

Impressively, the new Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph 5968A earns its second distinction as likely one of the more playful or colourful models thanks to its orange accents and accompanying orange rubber strap. Naturally, one of watchmaking’s most detail oriented brands has also seen fit to include a secondary strap in black, which makes things a little more serious. While the colour scheme is a little out of character for Patek Philippe, the overall style of the new Aquanaut has not changed one bit – the octagonal shape of the case remains immediately recognisable even with two chronograph pushers.

The slate grey dial with square aka “Checker-board” pattern and “smoked” or fume effect radiating outwards, punctuated by orange accents and the single subdial makes for very attractive if completely symmetrical appearance. Unlike the Nautilus Chronograph, the new Aquanaut chronograph features no running seconds or 12-hour subdial integrated into one, instead, the Baselworld 2018 Aquanaut Chronograph displays only a 60 minute counter which one supposes, even with the complexity of its flyback mechanism, makes things relatively more affordable hence the price tag.

The new 2018 Aquanaut Chronograph is driven by the in-house Calibre CH 28-520, a self-winding flyback chronograph with column wheel and modern vertical disk clutch which prevents rebound of the hand when the chronograph is actuated. Ingenious Patek Philippe architecture also means that the clutch is virtually friction free which allows the new Aquanaut Chronograph  to have a chronograph hand which also serves as a running seconds hand.

Another Patek innovation also appears on the Baselworld 2018 Aquanaut Chronograph, a foldover clasp equipped with four catches secure wearing (and also the product of two years R&D).

New Aquanaut Chronograph Price and Specs

Movement Automatic Calibre CH 28-520 with 55 hours power reserve
Case 42.2mm Stainless steel with 120 metres water resistance
Strap Rubber
Price SG$57,700

 

 

Patek Philippe Nautilus perpetual calendar: First high complication in the Nautilus collection

Since its debut, the Patek Philippe Nautilus has been a time only watch with a choice of two or three hands, over its history, it's since added a power reserve, annual calendar and even a revolutionary new mono-dial chronograph. The Baselworld 2018 Patek Philippe 5740/1G_001_DET is a high complication perpetual calendar, the first in the collection.

Since its debut, the Patek Philippe Nautilus has been a time only watch with a choice of two or three hands, over its history, it’s since added a power reserve, annual calendar and even a revolutionary new mono-dial chronograph. The Baselworld 2018 Patek Philippe 5740/1G_001_DET is a high complication perpetual calendar, the first in the collection.

First introduced in 1976, the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3700, birthed from the fertile imagination of Gerald Genta, stands as a pioneer of luxury steel watches in the vein of his other creation, the Royal Oak. Watches like the Nautilus 3700 were also notable for one other quality, they were unexpected mechanical bulwarks against the encroaching, industry- disrupting technology known as Quartz. Quartz was cheaper, more precise and as new fangled tech, promoted as being the trendiest thing in watchmaking. After establishing a peerless reputation for classically elegant, gold and platinum dress watches, the Patek Philippe Nautilus (and later the Aquanaut), would soon establish the brand’s domain in sports elegance. In introducing a stainless steel watch with integrated bracelet, the Ref. 3700 Nautilus was a bold move in a brand known for conservative designs. Nevertheless, the Patek Philippe Nautilus would soon put the brand on the path of luxury steel sports watches but home to time only, annual calendar and chronograph editions, the Patek Philippe Nautilus never possessed a grand complication in the collection. That is until Baselworld 2018.

Baselworld 2018 Ref. 5740 Patek Philippe Nautilus perpetual calendar

Baselworld 2018 Ref. 5740 Patek Philippe Nautilus perpetual calendar

Patek Philippe Nautilus perpetual calendar 5740 : First high complication in the Nautilus collection

Since its debut, the Patek Philippe Nautilus has been a time only watch with a choice of two or three hands, at times, with a date complication even. This changed 22 years later when Patek Philippe introduced a Nautilus with Indication de Zone de Remontage or IZR (power reserve indicator) in a jumbo 42mm case. The 1998 ref. 3710 can be considered the first time the collection as ever had a complication (not counting the date) of any kind. While it was discontinued after 8 years, in 2005, Patek Philippe re-introduced the concept of complications to the Nautilus collection, this time a Patek Philippe Nautilus 3712 with time, date, moonphases, power reserve & subsidiary seconds in an interesting asymmetric layout. In 2006, one year after the introduction of a complication Nautilus model, Patek Philippe updated the collection with the 5712 (update of the 3712) and a introduced a revolutionary new mono-dial chronograph model, the Nautilus Ref. 5980. By 2010, Patek Philippe introduced another complication into the collection, the Nautilus Annual Calendar 5726.

The moonphase complication first appeared in the Patek Philippe Nautilus 3712

The moonphase complication first appeared in the Patek Philippe Nautilus 3712

The Patek Philippe Nautilus perpetual calendar 5740 is driven by the famed ultra-thin self-winding caliber 240 movement with recessed 22K gold mini-rotor

The Patek Philippe Nautilus perpetual calendar 5740 is driven by the famed ultra-thin self-winding caliber 240 movement with recessed 22K gold mini-rotor

For Baselworld 2018, Patek Philippe presents the first high complication in the Nautilus line with something of a brand signature – a superlative perpetual calendar, one of the manufacture’s most coveted classics. The Ref. 5740 Patek Philippe Nautilus perpetual calendar carries a noble countenance with the discreet elegance of an 18K white-gold case and the utility of a celebrated expression of high horology, a perpetual calendar that automatically recognizes the number of days in each month, including the periodically recurring 29th of February.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus perpetual calendar 5740 is driven by the famed ultra-thin self-winding caliber 240 movement with recessed 22K gold mini-rotor, further embellished with a thin perpetual calendar module, all ensconced with a 8.32 mm high case with 60 metres water resistance. As a result, the Baselworld 2018 Ref. 5740 Patek Philippe Nautilus perpetual calendar is in fact, it is Patek Philippe’s thinnest perpetual calendar. The architecture of the movement and its refined finissage, including the bridges with chamfered and polished edges as well as the Calatrava cross engraving on the winding rotor, can be admired through the sapphire-crystal display back.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus perpetual calendar 5740 carries a noble countenance with the discreet elegance of an 18K white-gold case and the utility of a celebrated expression of high horology, a perpetual calendar

The Patek Philippe Nautilus perpetual calendar 5740 carries a noble countenance with the discreet elegance of an 18K white-gold case and the utility of a celebrated expression of high horology, a perpetual calendar

The three subsidiary dials of the Ref. 5740 Patek Philippe Nautilus perpetual calendar with analog displays (day of the week and 24-hour dial at 9 o'clock, month and leap- year cycle at 3 o'clock, date and moon phases at 6 o'clock) are harmoniously integrated in the subtly rounded octagon of the dial.

The three subsidiary dials of the Ref. 5740 Patek Philippe Nautilus perpetual calendar with analog displays (day of the week and 24-hour dial at 9 o’clock, month and leap- year cycle at 3 o’clock, date and moon phases at 6 o’clock) are harmoniously integrated in the subtly rounded octagon of the dial.

The iconic design of the bezel is emphasized by vertically satin finished surfaces that contrast against polished chamfers. The dial of the Patek Philippe Nautilus perpetual calendar 5740 is decorated with the unmistakable raised horizontal embossing while continuing the same sunburst blue decoration that graced the 40th anniversary versions of the Nautilus in 2016. The three subsidiary dials of the Ref. 5740 Patek Philippe Nautilus perpetual calendar with analog displays (day of the week and 24-hour dial at 9 o’clock, month and leap- year cycle at 3 o’clock, date and moon phases at 6 o’clock) are harmoniously integrated in the subtly rounded octagon of the dial. The 24-hour display simplifies calendar settings. The moon-phase display is extremely precise. It is controlled by a mechanism that deviates from the actual position of the moon by merely one day every 122 years.

The correctors of the Patek Philippe Nautilus perpetual calendar 5740 (day correction at 9 o’clock, date correction between 11 and 12 o’clock, month correction between 12 and 1 o’clock, moon-phase correction at 6 o’clock) were optimally positioned with an ingenious system of deflection mechanisms and seamlessly integrated in the Nautilus case design. But even the innovation doesn’t just stop at the calibre but also the white-gold bracelet with a totally new, patented fold-over clasp featuring four independent catches to optimize opening and closing and to prevent the unintended release of either of the two clasp segments.

Patek Philippe, 5740/1G_001_DET

The innovation of the Patek Philippe, 5740/1G_001 doesn't just stop at the calibre but also the white-gold bracelet with a totally new, patented fold-over clasp featuring four independent catches to optimize opening and closing and to prevent the unintended release of either of the two clasp segments.

The innovation of the Patek Philippe, 5740/1G_001 doesn’t just stop at the calibre but also the white-gold bracelet with a totally new, patented fold-over clasp featuring four independent catches to optimize opening and closing and to prevent the unintended release of either of the two clasp segments.

Ref. 5740 Patek Philippe Nautilus perpetual calendar Price and Specs

Movement Automatic Caliber 240 Q with 48 hours power reserve
Case 40 mm 18k white gold case with 60 metres water resistance
Strap 18K white gold with new, patented Nautilus fold-over clasp
Price SG$156,800

Baselworld 2018: Patek Philippe Debuts new Rose Gold 5524R Pilot Calatrava on Instagram

Patek's First Instagram Posts introduce His and Hers' Calatrava Pilot Travel Time

Patek’s First Instagram Posts introduce His and Hers’ Calatrava Pilot Travel Time

For Baselworld 2018 Patek Philippe is finally on Instagram in an official capacity. Kickstarting their first official foray into social media is a series of 12 posts which introduce Patek Philippe’s newest Baselworld 2018 novelty – two new Rose Gold 5524R Calatrava Pilot Travel Time watches in men’s and women’s proportions.

Baselworld 2018: Patek Philippe Debuts new Rose Gold 5524R Pilot Calatrava on Instagram

The Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time initially debuted in a cloud of artistic controversy in 2015 when industry insiders, used to the classicism of the Calatrava collection, were taken aback by the post-modernist aesthetic causing some to level accusations that it was similar to a Zenith pilot (the numerals mostly). However, the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time was able to rise above the snarkiness of instagram critics like ShameOnWrist, soon cultivating a following. The Baselworld 2018 Patek Philippe ref. 5524R Calatrava Pilot Travel Time is essentially essentially a rose gold edition of the original Pilot launched in white gold.

Baselworld 2018 introduces a lady's version ref. 7234R Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time in smaller 37.5mm diameter

Baselworld 2018 introduces a lady’s version ref. 7234R Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time in smaller 37.5mm diameter

Of greater importance, the new rose gold 5524R Calatrava Pilot Travel Time comes paired with a lady’s version ref. 7234R Pilot Travel Time in smaller 37.5mm diameter. This new Baselworld 2017 Patek Philippe novelty also marks a first for the brand in that the new re. 7234R Calatrava Pilot is a the first self-winding travel time watch for women.

For the mechanically inclined, the 37.5mm women’s Calatrava Pilot Travel Time shares the same automatic cal. 324 S C FUS as the men’s 42mm ref. 5524R Calatrava Pilot Travel Time. The new Baselworld 2018 Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time shows two-time zones with an innovative day/night indication (dot apertures with white or dark blue indicators) for home and local time.

Be sure to follow the last independent, family-owned Genevan watch manufacturer on instagram @patekphilippe and show your affection with #PatekTime. Patek Philippe was one of the last few holdouts to join instagram. At press time, @patekphilippe had already gather 23.9k followers.

 

Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction: FIVE – Highest sale in Asia

Concluded 28 November 2017, Phillips, in Association with Bacs & Russo, completed the fall season of sales in Asia with The Hong Kong Watch Auction: FIVE, achieving HK $109,598,750/ US $14,039,600 – the highest sale total for any watch auction held in Asia this year.

In a tightly curated sale, 167 collectible timepieces of the highest quality attracted collectors from 44 countries across six continents, including 345 online bidders. Particularly strong results were achieved for Patek Philippe, with the reference 2523 World-Time establishing a new record for the highest result ever achieved for any wristwatch sold at auction in Asia.

Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction: FIVE – Highest sale in Asia

Other notable highlights included the Rolex Paul Newman Dayton reference 6241 in 14K yellow gold, which tripled its low estimate, and the Patek Philippe reference 5004, which set a new world auction record for the reference in white gold.

28 November Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction: Patek Philippe Ref. 2523 – A gold world-time watch with engine turned dial – achieved US $2,856,630

“Following our blockbuster sales in New York and Geneva, the Hong Kong Watch Auction: FIVE achieved an impressive HK $109 million – the highest sale total for any watch auction staged in Asia this year, bringing Phillips’ annual total for the category to over US $110 million.” – Aurel Bacs, Auctioneer and Phillips Senior Consultant

Thomas Perazzi, Head of Watches, Asia said: “The Phillips’ Watch department is proud to have delivered a triumphant sale in Hong Kong this fall, reaffirming its market leadership in the region. As we continue to bring fresh to the market timepieces of the finest quality to the Asian marketplace, we broke Phillips’ own record for the highest result ever achieved for any wristwatch sold at auction in Asia with the Patek Philippe reference 2523 selling for HK $22,300,00. We were especially please to welcome significant participation from collectors across India for the Patek Philippe five minute repeating chronograph pocket watch, presented by Jamsetji N Tata to James Morris, The Architect of Esplanade House Bombay, which soared to seven times its estimate. Phillips is fully committed to further expanding our presence in Asia and offering best-in-class quality, service and scholarship to collectors in the region.”

Renowned auctioneer and Phillips Senior Consultant Aurel Bacs added, “Following our blockbuster sales in New York and Geneva, the Hong Kong Watch Auction: FIVE achieved an impressive HK $109 million – the highest sale total for any watch auction staged in Asia this year, bringing Phillips’ annual total for the category to over US $110 million. The top ten list is dominated by Patek Philippe and Rolex, with a broad array of vintage and contemporary watches leading that list. In this passionate and international marketplace, Phillips welcomed over 1,000 bidders this season and concludes 2017 maintaining its worldwide market leadership.”

Top Ten Lots at the 28 November Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction: FIVE

 

 

3 Desirable Watches Up for Bids Phillips Watches Hong Kong Watch Auction: FIVE

International auction house Phillips will be hosting The Hong Kong Watch Auction: FIVE on 28 November at Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong. But before that these 3 superlative, highly desirable, investment grade timepieces: Lot 944 Patek Philippe. Ref. 5073P-001, Lot 915 Audemars Piguet. Ref. 26381OR and Lot 832 A. Lange & Söhne. Ref. 824.035 up for auction by Philips Watches will be on display at the Mandarin Oriental from the 23rd till the 27th of November.

3 Desirable Watches Up for Bids at Phillips Watches Hong Kong Watch Auction: FIVE on 28 November

The Rolex Ref. 5100 was made in a limited 1000 piece run and it was also the first Rolex to be equipped with a sapphire glass and quick-set date.

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: FIVE is highly anticipated and among them, a rather rare Rolex Ref. 5100 Beta 21(Lot 902), considered a Holy Grail for Rolex aficionados – the Beta-21 stands for a period of innovation and experimentation in Swiss watch history where the Ref. 5100 was made in a limited 1000 piece run and it was also the first Rolex to be equipped with a sapphire glass and quick-set date. As the precursor to Rolex’s own in house Oysterquartz watches, the vintage Rolex Beta 21 has a special place amongst collectors; Also up for bids is a Philippe Dufour Simplicity (Lot 942) and an Audemars Piguet Ref. 5402 ST Royal Oak ‘A Series’ (Lot 842), these might not be the most expensive timepieces up for auction but they’re certainly among the most horologically significant. Here are our top 3 desired picks up for auction at the upcoming November 28 Philips Hong Kong Watch Auction.

Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction Lot 944 Patek Philippe. Ref. 5073P-001. Estimate: $400,000 – $700,000

Launched in 2011, Patek Philippe. Ref. 5073P-001 is among Patek Phllippe’s most lavish creations to date. Fitted with baguette diamonds to the bezel and lugs, the model’s diamond weight adds up to an impressive 5.288 carats, giving it an unmistakable presence on the wrist.

Auction Lot 944 Patek Philippe. Ref. 5073P-001 is exceedingly rare and this is the third to appear for auction to date

The Reference 5073 was only available to Patek Philippe’s most exclusive clients and produced upon special request. It was incredibly time consuming for the firm to find such well-matched diamonds, and setting the baguette stones was extremely laborious. As a result very few examples were manufactured, making this reference exceedingly rare, as confirmed by the fact that the present watch is only the third reference 5073 to ever appear on the auction market thus far.

Fitted with a perpetual calendar complication, Phillips Hong Kong auction Lot 944 Patek Philippe. Ref. 5073P also has a minute repeating mechanism which chimes with great clarity and tone. Of note are the particularly long cathedral gongs, which are almost twice as long as conventional gongs. These ensure that watch has a deeper tone with longer resonance. This is particularly noteworthy as the present watch is cased in platinum, which can cause the watch to chime less brightly than their gold counterparts, due to the density of the metal.

This watch is furthermore accompanied by its original certificate and portfolio photograph and Extract from the Archives. It is interesting to note that the sale date on the Extract does not match the date on the Certificate. This because Patek Philippe archives record, for watches sent to the USA, the date the watch is sold to their American distributor – the Henry Stern Agency – while of course the Certificate mentions the sale date to the final client.

Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction Lot 915 Audemars Piguet. Ref. 26381OR. Estimate: $150,000 – $300,000

The Lot 915 diamond-set Audemars Piguet. Ref. 26381OR Millenary marries its bold aesthetic with the diamonds off-set by the pink gold of the case and the onyx highlights. With a carat count of approximately 11 carats, the Ref. 26381OR Millenary is both a jewellery piece and mechanical marvel, with skeletonized tourbillon movement. In excellent condition, the watch comes complete with box and papers and is impressive to behold. Coincidentally, Audemars Piguet is launching a new series of Millenary timepieces for SIHH 2018, a gentle uptick in awareness and desirability for the auction piece usually ensues with the renewed interest.

Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction Lot 832 A. Lange & Söhne. Ref. 824.035. Estimate – $75,000 – $100,000

The Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction Lot 832 A. Lange & Söhne. Ref. 824.035 is an outstandingly rare and attractive variation of what can arguably be considered the most sophisticated chronograph wristwatch ever designed: the Lange double split. The hefty platinum case – now discontinued – is furthermore lavishly fitted with 48 baguette-cut Top Wesselton VVS diamonds for a total of 5.2 carats. The icy beauty of the white metal and the brilliance of the diamonds create a perfect contrast with the black dial, for a breathtaking aesthetic effect. The technical side of this piece is no less momentous than its aesthetic impact.

Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction Lot 832 A. Lange & Söhne. Ref. 824.035 in now discontinued platinum case.

When the Double Split was presented to the public in 2004, it was hailed with unbridled acclaim by industry experts, serious collectors, and simple enthusiasts alike. Hardly ever has a new model been so positively received, and such a response was indisputably more than deserved.

Split seconds chronographs are used to time two events happening simultaneously. As a matter of fact, the split second complication (or “rattrappante”) is one of the most daunting complications in watchmaking, comparable to the minute repeater. The mechanical complexity of having the second hand re-set properly and precisely on top of the running first one when released presents enormous technical challenges. In the case of the Double Split, however, Lange pushed the boundaries of portable watchmaking even further, and added a split minute counter as well. This overcomes one of the great limitations of the “classic” rattrappante: the fact that the two events being timed could not have a difference in length superior to one minute. The Double Split allows to record separate times with a difference of up to 30 minutes instead.

The inspiration for this movement comes from an historical Lange watch, a pocket timepiece dating to the end of the 19th century; The result of such an effort is what is considered by many the ultimate chronograph movement, not only for its technical complexity, but also for the flawless finishing and sheer aesthetic beauty.

Shape Your Time: Exploring Square and Form Watches of 2017

 

 

Square watches, or in industry parlance: form or shaped watches are a fairly sizeable segment (given that Cartier produces AND sells so many of them, but more on that later). That is to say, even though there’s a preponderance of round watches in the industry, the belief that square or shaped watches only have a niche appeal is fundamentally unsound. However, significant conversations with retailers and brands alike all indicate that the round watch, if anything, will dominate even more than it already does. For our part, we find this very disappointing indeed.

The much-reported preference of markets (apparently everywhere) for round watches seems like a self-fulfilling prophecy that no brand has seriously challenged. Well, one brand is challenging it but because that brand is Apple, watchmaking firms have only expressed tepid interest. More often than not, the companies have expressed aggressive disinterest.

Shape Your Time: 2017 Resurgence of Form Watches

This will mean that square watches will indeed be scarce, as we will illustrate here, and that fact represents an opportunity for the most consummate of collectors. The important thing is of course to see if there is enough demand to create the right sort of imbalance. Of course, we will be steering clear of making predictions as to investment value and such. Our purpose here is only to highlight an opportunity.

Designing Time

Before getting into that, let us look at the design situation at the turn of the last century, when the taste for wristwatches was still nascent. Louis Cartier was a jeweler with a penchant for what former Cartier CEO Franco Cologni called square surfaces. It was at the turn of the previous century that Cartier entered into its famous partnership with Parisian watchmaker Edmond Jaeger, who himself was tied up with the LeCoultre watchmaking company in Switzerland. This partnership prefigured the commercial launch of the Santos watch in 1911, a move that heralded the arrival of all sorts of new shapes in watchmaking.

The Panthere de Cartier is the major form watch release for 2017 that carries the codes of the Tank and the Santos, as seen below and right.

The Panthere de Cartier is the major form watch release for 2017 that carries the codes of the Tank and the Santos, as seen below and right.

At this time, before watchmakers and the public had any idea of what the ideal wristwatch would be, it was truly a free-for-all in terms of design. According to Cologni, in his book Cartier The Tank Watch, Louis Cartier was moved first and foremost by form, believing it to be more important than function. Arguably, this is the beginning of an idea that has an inherent weakness for the development and future of wristwatches– that function should follow form.

In contemporary times, the late Apple impresario Steve Jobs redefined this with his products, recognizing that “design is not just what it looks like and feels like. Design is how it works.” As far as watchmaking goes, the idea that design is how the object itself functions speaks to why so many watches today are round. Our daily time is indeed circular because that is what happens when you track the hours and minutes with hands. This powerful idea then shapes a powerful commercial argument.

Audemars Piguet is one of the few with a strong oval watch collection that also comes with a shaped movement

Audemars Piguet is one of the few with a strong oval watch collection that also comes with a shaped movement

The Audemars Piguet Millenary Quadriennium brought to life from the sketch before

The Audemars Piguet Millenary Quadriennium brought to life from the sketch before

Fragmented Collections

When asked about the new IWC Da Vinci being round despite the 2007 version being a refreshingly complex tonneau-tortue shape, here is what then-IWC CEO Georges Kern said: “The point is, 70 percent of the market is round watches. And the shaped segment is very limited and further segmented: square, rectangular, baignoire, tonneau… At the size IWC is today, with our reach, you need to be round because that’s what the market is.”

Kern was heading up watchmaking, marketing and digital for the Richemont Group overall so what he says carries weight far beyond IWC.

By virtue of its contrast bezel, the Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 PAM684 is a form watch hiding in round clothes.

By virtue of its contrast bezel, the Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 PAM684 is a form watch hiding in round clothes.

Despite predictions to the contrary, the Apple Watch Series 2 stuck with the rectangular shape and is water resistant to 50 metres.

Despite predictions to the contrary, the Apple Watch Series 2 stuck with the rectangular shape and is water resistant to 50 metres.

Franck Muller enjoyed a peak in the 90s and the early 2000s giving tonneau shaped watches a boost in popularity, pictured here, the Vanguard Fullback

Franck Muller enjoyed a peak in the 90s and the early 2000s giving tonneau shaped watches a boost in popularity, pictured here, the Vanguard Fullback

In fact, Kern’s estimation is generous considering that most informed sources consider round watches to be closer to 80 percent of the market. Before proceeding though, the market itself requires some definition because it does not only include the high-end market, meaning watches above US$1,000. In a 2015 article on the then-upcoming Apple Watch Series 2, no less than Forbes predicted that Apple would abandon its signature look in favour of the more conventional round shape. This prediction was based on the input of industry insiders and the like, and no doubt also took Jobs’ own philosophy into account. Of course, Apple confounded these expectations, illustrating again the hazards of journalists predicting outcomes. Considering that the Apple Watch 2 is both a status symbol and below US$1,000 (it is available for as little as $398 from the Apple Store), its very existence threatens the narrative that the market is overwhelmingly interested in round watches.

Exploring Form and Shaped Watches

Despite being, in the official lingo “timeless”, watches certainly mirror the era they are made and released in. This is what makes vintage watches from some periods – particularly the Art Deco age – so distinctive. Given the importance of heritage to the core of Swiss watchmaking – fine and otherwise – the brands have done a good job of retaining certain aesthetic touches across the ages. We have already gone into why Jaeger-LeCoultre shares the rectangular watch crown with Cartier. Both these firms maintain and champion in the 21st century a look that was already classic in the 1950s. But form watches – which are otherwise known as shaped watches – are not just rectangular of course

Patent drawing of the original Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso

Patent drawing of the original Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso

The 2017 Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duo owns the form space in classical styling

The 2017 Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duo owns the form space in classical styling

In official parlance, any watch that isn’t round is called a “form watch.” So that means everything from cushion-shaped Panerai watches to every collection from Cartier other than the Drive de Cartier, Cle de Cartier and Calibre de Cartier; we would argue that the popular Ballon Bleu is actually a form watch because it has a tactile appeal arising from its pebble shape. To look at the number of models in the form watch segment itself, we can only reference other magazines. Armbanduhren, a specialty German watch catalog, lists more than 1,000 models of watches (and has done since we began paying attention, in 2011). Of these more than 900 are round, meaning that form watches are roughly 10 percent of the annual offering.

If we take these numbers to base an extrapolation on, then we have roughly 10 percent of the watch models in any given year vying for potentially 30 percent of the market. Of course, we have no way of knowing just how many pieces are made and sold directly but it seems a good bet that only Cartier will be selling form watches in significant numbers.

Drive de Cartier pushes the cushion-shaped aesthetic, here in extra flat form.

Drive de Cartier pushes the cushion-shaped aesthetic, here in extra flat form.

This brings us to sales, briefly. Forbes ranks Rolex as the top-selling brand of high-end Swiss watches and Omega as the third. Guess what brand occupies the second rung? Yes, the standard-bearer of form watches itself, the Panthere of fine watchmaking, Cartier sells the most watches annually, other than Rolex.

Square and Rectangle Watches

The Tank is probably the most famous form watch in the world, rivaled only by the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. If one throws in the very popular and aforementioned Santos, also from Cartier, as well as the Twenty4, Nautilus and Aquanaut from Patek Philippe, and the Cintrex Curvex from Franck Muller, these are probably the most widely known form watches on the planet. Leaving all these aside and returning to just Cartier, this powerful brand has sought to increase its market share by unleashing an array of round watches but of these, the Ballon Bleu is so rounded that it resembles a sort of magical pebble that tells the time. The shape of this watch is, arguably, what made it an unqualified success. Nevertheless, Cartier clearly feels like its best shot at gaining market share lies with round watches, lending no small amount of credence to Kern’s statement.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5168G

Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5168G

The Bulgari Octo Tourbillon Sapphire shows off its form with a sapphire case middle

The Bulgari Octo Tourbillon Sapphire shows off its form with a sapphire case middle

 

In the early days of wristwatches (pocket watches were almost universally round and so are contemporary executions, Tom Ford’s attempt to transform the Apple Watch notwithstanding), firms experimented with wildly differing shapes, only a few of which remain well known today. In the era of properly water resistant watches though, most wristwatches are round and that is just because it is much simpler to achieve ISO water resistance standards when the case of the watch is round. Once again, function keeps interfering with the notion of the form watch

The reason for this water resistance bit could very well fill another article but, to cover it briefly and intuitively, just think of how easily a rubber gasket would work with a round watch as opposed to a rectangular one. It is for this reason that even brands with a yen for specific shapes (or even just one shape in particular) opt for the round shape when necessary.

Bell & Ross makes a point about exceptional water resistance (300 metres) with the BR 03-92 Diver

Bell & Ross makes a point about exceptional water resistance (300 metres) with the BR 03-92 Diver

Function versus Form

An excellent, if obvious, case in point here is the Richard Mille diver watch while the equally obvious counterpoint is Bell & Ross. In fact, Bell & Ross raised the roof at BaselWorld this year by releasing a diver’s watch that maintained the brand’s signature square look. It is important to note that in this case, no pun intended, the display of time is round allowing Bell & Ross to package both form and function into the mix; obviously, the brand had to work hard to achieve exceptional water resistance in this unusual shape and that should only increase its appeal.

This example aside, function is arguably the strongest reason explaining why the watchmaking trade has doubled down on the round shape in recent years, The aforementioned standard bearers of form watches such as Jaeger-LeCoultre and Cartier are both betting big on round while Omega – once a stellar producer of shaped watches – now only features the odd bullhead and Ploprof for variation. Omega is the third largest maker of high-end mechanical timepieces in Switzerland and it has no other shape in its regular collections but round.

Richard Mille RM50-03

Richard Mille RM50-03

As for the number one spot, Rolex reintroduced the world to the rectangular Prince in 2005 in what was then considered to be yet another of the brand’s calculated surprise moves. It followed up by proposing the Cellini as a brand new tuxedo-friendly family in its collection. Unfortunately, Rolex unceremoniously ditched the rectangular Prince, with the model not even worthy of a mention on its website. If you have never heard of the Rolex Prince, it is as if it never existed…

What is particularly unfortunate here is that this is Rolex, a brand unafraid to go its own way. Perhaps no other major brand would take a chance on something major that would require some getting used to, such as the Sky-Dweller and the Yacht-Master II. If the rectangular Prince can’t make it here then the majors are truly closed for business on the form watch side. On the other hand, there are still pristine examples of the Prince available and this quirky little dressy number may yet have its day.

 

Chameleons: A Case in Between

All this points to the obvious truth that few brands care enough about the form segment to flood the market with options, making what’s available all the more precious. This is what Officine Panerai so smartly trades on, even resolving professional tool watch issues without compromising on the shape of the watches. Brands such as this are few and far between, and bring this story to a special class of offerings.

Audemars Piguet leads the way in disguising round watches as form watches... or is it vice versa?

Audemars Piguet leads the way in disguising round watches as form watches… or is it vice versa?

Another great chameleon in this arena is Audemars Piguet, the maker of the highly idiosyncratic Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore watches. The shape here feels distinctive yet it maintains a sort of amorphous state, being perhaps close enough to being round that the unsuspecting eye accepts it as such. Of course, it might also be a round watch masquerading as an octagonal one. Indeed, case, bezel and crystal all come together in masterful fashion to surprise both eye and hand. In short, it is a rather beautiful ambiguity that Audemars Piguet shares here with Panerai.

Other brands too have their place here, including one collection from Patek Philippe with a shared progenitor as the Royal Oak – the Nautilus, and by extension the Aquanaut. Speaking of the great Gerald Genta, it would be remiss to ignore the current Bulgari Octo collection. Bulgari’s determination to convince the world of the virtues of its Octo shape is remarkable, making this brand one of the leading lights of the form watch segment.

Engine of Demand

Taken together, the brands that champion form watches because that is what they must do to survive and, further to that, thrive, perform an invaluable service to watchmaking as a whole – and to collectors by extension. They serve to drive the engine of demand, which is a far more difficult beast to understand than supply.

To put it another way, if while pushing their own goals and growth targets, these corporations also happen to create a little demand for gems of the past such as the A. Lange & Sohne Cabaret or the Rolex Prince, so much the better for collectors, especially those who are already moving in this direction. For those on the sidelines, the success of a particular model can lead to the brand reviving the model in its current collection or increasing its offering, thus building even more cachet and demand. There is actually a proper example of this, which brings us back to Audemars Piguet and Cartier.

The original release of the so-called Series A of the Royal Oak numbered only 1,000 watches yet the ensuing popularity of the model translated to innumerable iterations over the years. This collection – and the Royal Oak Offshore – probably contributes the lion’s share of the brand’s reported figure of 40,000 plus watches sold annually. Finishing our tale at Cartier, where we started, the success of the Tank watch might arguably be correlated to the success of Cartier as a force in high-end watchmaking. While the Royal Oak has just the Royal Oak Offshore as an offshoot, the Tank has quite a number of descendants. The popularity of the Tank with collectors inspired Cartier to create extensive options here, with no less than six different families of Tank watches available, with multiple references in each family. Not bad at all for a watch that started with just six models for sale in Paris in 1919.

Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30 Degree Asymmetrical

Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30 Degree Asymmetrical

Minor Leagues: Where Independent watchmakers stand on Shaped Watches

Where the big brands have circled the wagons, so to speak, it is quite a different story at smaller outfits such as Azimuth, Bell & Ross, MB&F, SevenFriday, Urwerk and others. Certainly some, especially classical names such as Philippe Dufour and Laurent Ferrier, trade on a certain inner beauty but even here, some are not afraid to bust out of the circle. This is most obvious in the watches of Greubel Forsey, where the cases literally bulge in odd ways when the function calls for it. Obviously, when one makes very small numbers of watches it is possible to take certain risks. Here’s how Max Busser of MB&F puts it:

“It’s a question of horological integrity; I’ve said from the beginning that MB&F is not going to put round movements in funky shaped cases because we’re not designers. We’re mechanical artists. This is what separates marketers from creators; If you want to please the market you probably won’t take creative risks. The bigger the company, the more you will be inclined to please the market.”

Busser’s point here extends to watches at many different prices points, as evidenced by Kickstarter notables such as Momentum Labs, Helgray and Xeric. Obviously, Kickstarter projects are defined by the marketplace so the vast majority of projects there are round watches but there are significant alternatives, which one can discover by looking at the offering from those three names.

 

Form Watch Movements

Proportionally, it is rewarding when watchmakers equip a rectangular watch with a movement with exactly the right shape. In first half of the 20th century, it was quite normal to expect form watches to come with movements in the corresponding shape. The idea was to have the mechanical movement function as a sort of kinetic sculpture, one where function followed form. Today, form movements are the exception rather than the rule, even within the increasingly limited area of form watches. Given that form watches as a whole are like an endangered horological species, this story concerns itself with the shape of the watch as a whole rather than the shape of the movement.

The Tank Louis Cartier and Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre 944 are both examples of kinetic sculptures

The Tank Louis Cartier and Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre 944 are both examples of kinetic sculptures

Nevertheless, an entire class of collectors follows this segment and connoisseurs of mechanical watches are always pleased when watchmakers make an effort to match the shape of the movement with the shape of the watch so in this section we will look at the history of such efforts and suggest why they have fallen out of favor, although the simple answer as to why your cushion-shaped watch comes with a round movement is not hard to fathom: it makes sense from a cost and reliability perspective.

With apologies to Louis Cartier and to play devil’s advocate, what value does it really speak to that function should follow form? It is by no means a recent development that we consider function more important than form. To reference the main part of this story, this speaks to why the Apple Watch is rectangular.

Jobs’ design ideology finds its spiritual cousin in the watchmaking philosophy of Jaeger-LeCoultre, at least when it comes to the Reverso. Other than the Squadra, the Art Deco icon has always been equipped with a form movement and its case shape was dictated by function. The Reverso has the shape that it does to facilitate its defining reversible function. Function though is where form movements run into trouble, for one obvious reason: automatic winding, or rather the lack thereof.

The newly launched Tiffany Square Watch comes with its bonafide form, square shaped movement. A rarity even amongst specialist watchmakers.

The newly launched Tiffany Square Watch comes with its bonafide form, square shaped movement. A rarity even amongst specialist watchmakers.

Since at least the 1960s, the watch buying public has sought out automatic models. Once again, you can look to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso models over the years to see how this played. For the most part, the Reverso has been equipped with manual-winding calibers, all form ones of course. For self-winding models, in the Reverso Squadra and elsewhere, the Grand Maison uses round movements. Cartier sidestepped the issue though because Edmond Jaeger designed and equipped the early Cartier form watches with round LeCoultre movements.

Check out the latest Tiffany Square Watch which joined body (and movement), the pantheon of shaped watches.

 

Flexible Hours: Patek Philippe’s Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5650

The latest Advanced Research timepiece from Patek Philippe has arrived. This series of watches is akin to concept cars that various marques release from time to time to showcase new technical and design advancements, and the Geneva manufacture had released only four of them since 2005, with this Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5650 being the fifth. The watch showcases two main improvements in watchmaking technology: a new hairspring design, and a new flexible mechanism in traditional steel.

Aesthetically (and functionally), the timepiece is largely similar to the existing Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5164, with general symmetry along both axes. To reflect the times in two different cities, two hour hands are used, with an aperture for each one to indicate day/night. Meanwhile, the date, which is tagged to local time, is shown via a sub-dial at six o’clock. Where the new Advanced Research timepiece differs is the massive aperture on the left of the dial; the opening shows off the new flexible mechanism, which is one of the two technical highlights in this watch.

Aquanaut Time Travel Ref. 5650

The flexible mechanism is, as its name suggests, a mechanism that works based on the flexibility of materials. This isn’t a new concept, but its usage is novel to watchmaking, which has traditionally depended on levers and pivots to create articulating mechanisms to transfer forces. In the Ref. 5650, the flexible mechanism is used to adjust the local time’s hour hand, and consists of the entire crab-like structure exposed by the dial’s cut out. Note the four “crosses” on the structure – each is a pair of leaf springs that cross over each other, with just 0.15mm between them, and together they are responsible for transferring each pusher’s actuation into a correction in the local time’s hour hand. There’re several advantages to such a system: fewer parts are needed (12 instead of 37) which translates to faster assembly (just four screws are used), a reduced height for the mechanism from 1.45mm to 1.24mm, and the elimination of friction that causes wear and tear. Since the mechanism is entirely crafted in steel, it can also be finished using traditional methods. Of course, the flexing of the leaf springs must be below a certain amplitude, so material fatigue will not occur.

Aquanaut Time Travel Ref. 5650

Flip the watch around, and the second major advancement shows itself – the new Spiromax balance spring. This hairspring’s material is still the silicon that Patek Philippe developed as part of a consortium that also included Rolex and the Swatch Group. What’s changed is its geometry. In addition to the outer terminal curve (a slight misnomer, since it is flat and just widens, rather than curving upwards like the Breguet overcoil), the innermost coil has now been widened as well. Patek Philippe terms this the “inner boss”, likely a translation issue from the French word “bosse”, which means bump. Whatever the nomenclature, the changed inner profile is, according to the manufacturer, crucial in improving the concentric breathing as the spring expands and contracts. The principle behind this is simple: because of its shape a spring’s centre of gravity varies as it expands and contracts, so compensation is needed to reduce this shift in its centre of gravity, which exerts an uneven force on the balance wheel. A silicon hairspring, however, cannot be bent to form the Breguet overcoil, so modified profiles are needed, with this being the latest one. The change is quantifiable: Patek Philippe is regulating this timepiece to an astonishing -1/+2 seconds per day.

Aquanaut Travel Time 5650 Specifications

Movement Self-winding Patek Philippe Caliber 324 S C FUS with date, second time zone and day/night indications; 35-hour power reserve (minimum)
Case 40.8mm in white gold, water resistant to 120m
Strap Blue composite strap with deployant clasp in white gold

This article was originally published in WOW.

Patek Philippe Triple Complication Titanium Ref. 5208T-010 for Only Watch 2017 is the Most Anticipated Auction Since Putin’s Own Monaco Legend Auction

 This year, for Only Watch 2017, the Geneva manufacture was producing a first ever for the maison, a Patek Philippe Triple Complication Ref. 5208T-010 in Titanium.

This year, for Only Watch 2017, the Geneva manufacture was producing a first ever for the maison, a Patek Philippe Triple Complication Ref. 5208T-010 in Titanium.

 

When it was launched in 2011, Patek Philippe Triple Complication Reference 5208 was a horological tour de force demonstrating the pinnacle of Patek Philippe’s mastery in the arena of grand complications. Home to a minute repeater, a monopusher chronograph, and an instantaneous perpetual calendar, the Patek Philippe Triple Complication Reference 5208 Triple Complication was the type of superlative timepiece designed, made and finished to fine watchmaking traditions. This year, for Only Watch 2017, the Geneva manufacture was producing a first ever for the maison, a Patek Philippe Triple Complication  Ref. 5208T-010 in Titanium. It is also a highly exclusive reference available only to top clients of the brand on application (and subject to approval).

Patek Philippe Piece Unique Triple Complication Titanium Ref. 5208T-010 for Only Watch 2017

When it debuted, the 42mm Patek Philippe Triple Complication Reference 5208  was the among the largest contemporary Patek Philippe watches out there. Once available only in 950 platinum, the arrival of the Patek Philippe Piece Unique Triple Complication Titanium Ref. 5208T-010 for Only Watch 2017 heralds a new milestone for the 719 components, hand-finished ultra-luxurious watch.

Within the iconic Patek Philippe ref. 5208P, an automatic Patek calibre R CH 27 PS QI with Minute Repeater, monopusher 12-hour chronograph and instantaneous perpetual calendar drives the indicators showcased on the luxuriant blue textured dial.

Within the iconic Patek Philippe ref. 5208P, an automatic Patek calibre R CH 27 PS QI with Minute Repeater, monopusher 12-hour chronograph and instantaneous perpetual calendar drives the indicators showcased on the luxuriant blue textured dial.

The Only Watch 2017 Patek Philippe Reference 5208T-010 was created specially for the charity auction supporting the bi-annual (as in once every two years) Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies research for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. It is the first and only (thus the name of the auction) version of the Triple Complication Reference 5208 in titanium. The material is itself rarely used by one of watchmaking’s most prestigious brands and it was last seen encasing a Patek Sky-Moon Tourbillon)

Within the iconic Patek Philippe ref. 5208P, an automatic Patek calibre R CH 27 PS QI with Minute Repeater, monopusher 12-hour chronograph and instantaneous perpetual calendar drives the indicators showcased on the luxuriant blue textured dial. Among the standout features of the  Patek Philippe ref. 5208P calibre is the instantaneous perpetual calendar, although instantaneous implies that all calendar indications advance simultaneously at the stroke of midnight, the term is somewhat of a misnomer because of the architecture and gear layout of the Patek calibre R CH 27 PS QI, it would be physically impossible (because of the gear teeth and even with cams) to advance all indications instantly, for now, only the moonphase and month jumps in an instant. That said, Patek Philippe comes closer than most other watchmakers in this area of grand complications.

When it was launched in 2011, Patek Philippe Triple Complication Reference 5208 with automatic Patek calibre R CH 27 PS QI was a horological tour de force demonstrating the pinnacle of Patek Philippe's mastery in the arena of grand complications

When it was launched in 2011, Patek Philippe Triple Complication Reference 5208 with automatic Patek calibre R CH 27 PS QI was a horological tour de force demonstrating the pinnacle of Patek Philippe’s mastery in the arena of grand complications

Having attended a “Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Knowledge Tutorial” last Friday, I can attest that the perpetual calendar indications roughly transitions as follows, there usually is a discrepancy of +/- 2 to 5 minutes when it comes to indication switching over to the new day:

  • Instant Moonphase advance around 12:45 a.m.
  • Instant Month advance around 12:25 a.m.
  • Date advance beginning around 11:58 p.m. and completed by 12:23 a.m.
  • Day advance beginning around 11:15 p.m and completed by 12:03 a.m.
  • “Slow crawl” continuous gear rotation Day/night advances

Beyond the amazing perpetual calendar, the legendary Patek Philippe ref. 5208P also features buttery smooth chronograph actuation, itself a fairly unique signature where one can feel the tension requiring a relatively forceful press in most other regular chronograph. Aesthetically, the Triple Complication Reference 5208 also enjoys hollow lug case design which brings adds a dimension of surprise to an otherwise fairly traditional grand complication.

Though the watch is 42mm, the 719 part automatic micro-rotor movement is itself 32mm and is equipped with two gongs with a somewhat leisurely beat rate of 21,600 vph balance viewable, if one chooses to equip it with the interchangeable sapphire caseback.

Earlier in the month, it was announced by Monaco Legends Auction (an Antiquorum partner) that a reference 5208P had become available for auction, the retail CHF 980,000 Patek Philippe ref. 5208P had belonged to none other than the world's favourite boogyman - Vladimir Putin.

Earlier in the month, it was announced by Monaco Legends Auction (an Antiquorum partner) that a reference 5208P had become available for auction, the retail CHF 980,000 Patek Philippe ref. 5208P had belonged to none other than the world’s favourite boogyman – Vladimir Putin.

The Most Anticipated Auction Since Putin’s Own Patek Philippe ref. 5208P Monaco Legend Auction

While the Titanium Reference 5208T-010 was created specially for Only Watch 2017, it is by no means the only hotly anticipated auction of a Patek Philippe Triple Complication Reference 5208. Earlier in the month, it was announced by Monaco Legends Auction (an Antiquorum partner) that a reference 5208P had become available for auction, the retail CHF 980,000 Patek Philippe ref. 5208P had belonged to none other than the world’s favourite boogyman – Vladimir Putin.

According to photographs provided by Monaco Legend Auctions, documentation supporting sale of the Patek Philippe ref. 5208P was completed by one Vladimir Vladimirovic Putin through Watches of Switzerland. Additionally, as a commercial practice Patek Philippe insists that retailers print real names of the client the documentation on delivery and so, while it is possible that man bearing that name or carrying papers which identify him as such is possible, it is quite unlikely. The auction of Vladimir Putin’s Triple Complication Reference 5208 will take place around July but beyond the dueling auctions of one platinum Patek ref. 5208P and a titanium  ref. 5208P, great anticipation is also borne from the history of Patek’s dominance at the Only Watch proceedings.

Patek Philippe, 5208T_010

Patek Philippe typically commands at least half of the charity proceeds during Only Watch and incredibly, their offerings usually double every other Only Watch auction. For Only Watch 2011, a Patek steel ref. 3939 auctioned for US$1.8 million, for Only Watch 2013, a titanium ref. 5004 raised US$3.9 million, during Only Watch 2015, a steel ref. 5016 closed at US$7.5 million.

Putin’s platinum Patek ref. 5208P is estimated to fetch €850,000 – 1,150000 (most likely for reasons of provenance – aka ownership by a famous individual) while the Patek Philippe Triple Complication Titanium Ref. 5208T-010 for Only Watch 2017 is estimated to raise € 820,000-1,010,000..

 

 

Highlights of Rare Watches from Antiquorum’s June Auction in New York

With preview from 19 June leading up the June 22nd auction of “Important Modern and Vintage Timpieces”, collectors from all over the world can now participate in Antiquorum’s auction online or in person at Antiquorum’s offices located at 805 Third Avenue in New York City. Meanwhile, here are some of the Highlights of Rare Watches from Antiquorum’s June Auction in New York with prime horological exemplars including Rolex, Patek Philippe and particularly significant A. Lange & Sohne.

Highlights of Rare Watches from Antiquorum’s June Auction in New York (and available online)

Perhaps, due to the ubiquity and almost universal love for Rolex in the watch collecting world, it’s almost inevitable that a Rolex Ref. 6239 Paul Newman naturally headlines the sale of most watch auctions, Antiquorum’s including. Come 22 June, the Rolex Ref. 6239 Paul Newman with Tropical Dial in Steel, unarguably one of the most  sought-after vintage Rolex sports model today goes on sale. Antiquorum’s own appraisers believe that it is sure to attract worldwide attention due to the striking “tropical” subdials, naturally faded into a soft and creamy chocolate color, enhancing the exceptional beauty of this vintage Rolex Daytona. Sans screw-down pushers, this rare and desirable vintage Rolex Daytona made circa 1965 is accompanied by service papers dated May 30, 1995.

1. Rolex Ref. 6239 Paul Newman with Tropical Dial in Steel

This Rolex Ref. 6239 Paul Newman with Tropical Dial in Steel, unarguably one of the most sought-after vintage Rolex sports model today goes on sale at Antiquorum's Important Modern and Vintage Timpieces, this June in New York. Estimated auction price: $70,000 -$100,000

This Rolex Ref. 6239 Paul Newman with Tropical Dial in Steel, unarguably one of the most sought-after vintage Rolex sports model today goes on sale at Antiquorum’s Important Modern and Vintage Timpieces, this June in New York. Estimated auction price: $70,000 -$100,000

Another extraordinary highlight of the  “Important Modern and Vintage Timpieces” Antiquorum auction is the Patek Philippe Ref. 5078 Minute-Repeater with Black Dial in Platinum. Sold in 2010, one of the lesser known but more charming attributes of a Patek Philippe Ref. in platinum is a small diamond in the mid-case at 6 o’clock, differentiating a watch of exceptional material from the more commonplace white gold (or God forbid, mistaken for mirror polished steel) – a visual reminder of the superior exclusivity of this Patek Philippe Minute-Repeater with black lacquer dial. This Patek Ref. 5078 is accompanied by a certificate of origin and a solid platinum case back, which unfortunately, would obscure the view of the superlative finishing (Geneva stripes, guilloche, graining and chamfering of the various components) of the Calibre 27 R PS.

2. Patek Philippe Ref. 5078 Minute-Repeater with Black Dial in Platinum

This Patek Philippe Ref. 5078 Minute-Repeater with Black Dial in Platinum from the Antiquorum auction "Important Modern and Vintage Timpieces" is accompanied by a certificate of origin and a solid platinum case back, which unfortunately, would obscure the view of the superlative finishing on the chiming calibre. Estimated auction price: $250,000 - $350,000

This Patek Philippe Ref. 5078 Minute-Repeater with Black Dial in Platinum from the Antiquorum auction “Important Modern and Vintage Timpieces” is accompanied by a certificate of origin and a solid platinum case back, which unfortunately, would obscure the view of the superlative finishing on the chiming calibre. Estimated auction price: $250,000 – $350,000

Connoisseurs of A. Lange & Sohne will be chomping at the bit for this Antiquorum auction piece, up for grabs – an A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Ref. 704025 Tourbillon in Platinum with Special Ordered Blue Steel Hands. Why? Because this  A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Ref. 704025 is a bonafide rare highlight, the only known example in platinum fitted with blue steel hands. Apparently, it was a bespoke custom order ordained by the late honorary Chairman Walter Lange himself for a special customer. The provenance of this piece is impeccable – from manufacture documentation of special dispensation for this unique A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1 reference, preserved in pristine unworn condition complete with original accessories, acquisition of this Lange 1 is a once in a lifetime opportunity.

3. A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Ref. 704025 Tourbillon in Platinum with Special Ordered Blue Steel Hands

Made in 2011, this is an extremely rare A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Ref. 704025 Tourbillon in Platinum with Special Ordered Blue Steel Hands is a unique piece ordained by Walter Lange himself for a special customer. It is the only known example in platinum fitted with blue steel hands; and it can be yours thanks to this Antiquorum auction in June. Estimated auction price: $100,000 - $150,000

Made in 2011, this is an extremely rare A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Ref. 704025 Tourbillon in Platinum with Special Ordered Blue Steel Hands is a unique piece ordained by Walter Lange himself for a special customer. It is the only known example in platinum fitted with blue steel hands; and it can be yours thanks to this Antiquorum auction in June. Estimated auction price: $100,000 – $150,000

Also for sale at the June Antiquorum auction in New York is an unopen and unworn Patek Philippe Ref. 5970 Chronograph Perpetual Calendar in Yellow Gold. Widely considered to be the best watch Patek Philippe ever made due to its balanced proportions, it had a relatively short run from 2004 to 2011 due to the introduction of the in-house calibre 5270. Sold in 2008, this Lemania-based Patek Philippe Ref. 5970 Chronograph Perpetual Calendar in 18K yellow gold with perpetual calendar, moon phases, chronograph and tachymeter is considered by watch collectors to be one of the safer investments when it comes to watch collecting (the piece previously hammered north of US$89 thousand, now they cost double now at Gemnation). The lot offered by Antiquorum comes with the original wooden box, Certificate of Origin, solid 18K yellow gold caseback, setting pin and booklets.

4. Patek Philippe Ref. 5970 Chronograph Perpetual Calendar in 18K yellow gold

The Lemania-based Patek Philippe Ref. 5970 Chronograph Perpetual Calendar in 18K yellow gold is considered by many watch collectors to be one of the safer "investment pieces". Case in point, auction prices have risen from each subsequent auction. Estimated Antiquorum auction price: $90,000 -$130,000

The Lemania-based Patek Philippe Ref. 5970 Chronograph Perpetual Calendar in 18K yellow gold is considered by many watch collectors to be one of the safer “investment pieces”. Case in point, auction prices have risen from each subsequent auction. Estimated Antiquorum auction price: $90,000 -$130,000

Next up, not the most auction friendly (in terms of value appreciation) but definitely one of the more interesting timepieces for bids at Antiquorum’s online auction, the Jean Dunand Shabaka Piece Unique in White Gold, made circa 2007. We find the Jean Dunand Shabaka particularly appealing due to the unique roller-system to indicate calendar information. Its art deco aesthetic is undeniable as is its geometric and angular case. That’s not even counting the minute repeater function. This unusual Antiquorum auction piece is available in large 18K white gold and originally retailed for $515,000. Though it’s not expected to fetch a wealth of bids, it does come as a complete set with original box, certificate, setting tool and instruction set.

5. Jean Dunand Shabaka Piece Unique in White Gold

Not the most auction friendly (in terms of value appreciation) but definitely one of the more interesting timepieces for bids at Antiquorum's online auction, the Jean Dunand Shabaka Piece Unique in White Gold originally retailed for US$515,000 but it's estimated to fetch: $80,000 - $120,000

Not the most auction friendly (in terms of value appreciation) but definitely one of the more interesting timepieces for bids at Antiquorum’s online auction, the Jean Dunand Shabaka Piece Unique in White Gold originally retailed for US$515,000 but it’s estimated to fetch: $80,000 – $120,000

One of the outstanding highlights of rare watches from Antiquorum’s June auction in New York is this amazing openworked Christophe Claret Piece Unique Tourbillon De La Roche In Platinum. A unique piece inspired by Christophe Claret’s acquisition of Chateau De La Roche in the Besancon region of France in September 2005, the Christophe Claret Piece Unique Tourbillon De La Roche is so named for the property of Baron Othon De La Roche, Duke of Athens and a knight of the fourth crusade. Made circa 2005, this is a unique and stunning, platinum and sapphire-set tourbillon wristwatch with a visible one-minute tourbillon regulator movement is made especially intriguing thanks to visible gearwork unobstructed by a dial.

6. Christophe Claret Piece Unique Tourbillon De La Roche In Platinum

The Christophe Claret Piece Unique Tourbillon De La Roche is so named for the property of Baron Othon De La Roche, Duke of Athens and a knight of the fourth crusade. One of the outstanding highlights of rare watches from Antiquorum’s June auction in New York, estimated to fetch $55,000 to $85,000

The Christophe Claret Piece Unique Tourbillon De La Roche is so named for the property of Baron Othon De La Roche, Duke of Athens and a knight of the fourth crusade. One of the outstanding highlights of rare watches from Antiquorum’s June auction in New York, estimated to fetch $55,000 to $85,000

Not exactly a highlight (due to relative availability as far as rare watches go), not exactly a staple but a fan favourite at many rare watch auctions and perhaps one of the most affordable “panda” style Rolex 6263s, Antiquorum has a Rolex Ref. 6263 Big Red in Steel up for bids this June. You’d be remiss to lose out, considering it’s a piece of history at a smidgen more than the price of the new ceramic Daytonas.

7. Rolex Ref. 6263 Big Red in Steel

The June Antiquorum auction in New York has a Rolex Ref. 6263 Big Red in Steel up for bids this June estimated to fetch: $25,000 – 35,000.

The June Antiquorum auction in New York has a Rolex Ref. 6263 Big Red in Steel up for bids this June estimated to fetch: $25,000 – 35,000.

No one ever says no to a Pepsi, especially when it comes in Rolex GMT form, even a Coke fan will acquiesce. A rare and definitely interesting highlight is this Rolex Ref. 6542 GMT Bakelite Bezel with Gilt Tropical Dial in Steel. Made in 1955, it’s in pretty good shape considering that Bakelite bezels have become extremely rare due to their fragility and were often replaced with later metal inserts. This Antiquorum lot up for auction in June still retains its original Bakelite bezel and the dial has turned a beautiful brown color.

8. Rolex Ref. 6542 GMT Bakelite Bezel with Gilt Tropical Dial in Steel

This Antiquorum lot Rolex Ref. 6542 GMT with Gilt Tropical Dial in Steel up for auction in June still retains its original Bakelite bezel and the dial has turned a beautiful brown color. Estimated auction price: $15,000 - $35,000

This Antiquorum lot Rolex Ref. 6542 GMT with Gilt Tropical Dial in Steel up for auction in June still retains its original Bakelite bezel and the dial has turned a beautiful brown color. Estimated auction price: $15,000 – $35,000

Something for the ladies too…

A 1970s, Patek Philippe Ref. 4347 Lady’s Diamond & Yellow Gold wristwatch. The rare and not exactly rectangular, cushion-shaped, 18K yellow gold and diamond lady’s wristwatch with a stunning turquoise dial and integrated 18K yellow gold woven Patek Philippe mesh bracelet.

1970s, Patek Philippe Ref. 4347 Lady’s Diamond & Yellow Gold wristwatch

The Antiquorum for Lots 1-208 will begin at Thursday, June 22, 10am Eastern Daylight Time. You can bid online or attend the preview from 19 to 21 June (11am to 7pm) or be present at the live auction at this address on 22 June:

Antiquorum Auctioneers
805 Third Avenue, 10 fl
New York, NY 10022
Tel (212) 750 -1103
Email: [email protected]

Patek Philippe presents ‘The Art of Watches, Grand Exhibition’ in New York

Luxury Swiss watchmaker Patek Philippe celebrates its long history and prowess in watch making with a 10-day exhibition. The show, titled ‘The Art of Watches, Grand Exhibition New York 2017’ is slated to take place from July 13 to 23 at Ciprani 42nd Street. A showcase of the Swiss watchmaker’s 178-year-old history, the exhibition covers the tradition of haute horologerie and the brand’s heritage, giving visitors the chance to peak into the world of the last privately family owned Geneva Watch Company.

Watches and timepieces from 1530 will be put on show in a space of 13,218 square feet. The exhibition consists of 10 different rooms, each created to showcase different bits of history. Amongst these is the Napoleon room, which will display limited edition timepieces created specifically for the US market. For a trip back in time, visit the Museum room. Some of the greatest historical timepieces from the last five centuries, including the oldest timepieces to date will be put on view. Not to be missed is the Grand Complication room: Dedicated to Patek Philippe’s most complicated and innovative timepieces, this collection will no doubt showcase the brand’s mastery in horology.

Other than browsing through the informative sections, feast your eyes on Watchmaker and Artisan demonstrations at the Interactive room. Dive into the inner workings of luxury watchmaking by taking part in these activities. For a quick break, the Patek Philippe Café is a great place for rest and relaxation.

Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon

According to Jasmina Steele, the International Communication & Public Relations Director of Patek Philippe, the aim of the Grand Exhibition is to recreate elements of the company that will provide an unforgettable experience for each visitor as close as possible to the feeling Patek Philippe guests have when they visit the company’s manufacture in Geneva, The Museum, and the historical Salons on the Rue du Rhone. “By offering visitors an immersion inside the world of Patek Philippe, we really want to share our passion for watchmaking and hope visitors will come out of the Exhibition with a greater knowledge and appreciation of the art of watches”, says Jasmina.

Patek Philippe President Thierry Stern commented “From its earliest days, when our founder Antoine Norbert de Patek made his first journey to America in the 1850’s until today, the importance of America to Patek Philippe can be seen through our history exhibited in the Grand Exhibition in New York. Moreover, it is a tradition in my family that the owners of Patek Philippe train in the new world, following the path of my grandfather Henri who founded in 1946 the Henri Stern Watch Agency in the Rockefeller Center and my father Philippe, I trained in the US when I started in the company. I am very proud that American visitors will be able to learn more about the historic and contemporary ties between our company and the American market.”

The Art of Watches, Grand Exhibition opens on July 13 and will be open to the general public. Admissions are free of charge from 10am-7pm on Monday to Sunday, with extended evening hours on Thursday, July 20 from 10am-9pm

Grisaille enamel painting for Van Cleef & Arpels’s Midnight Nuit Boréale

Six Enamelling Techniques used for luxury watch making, from Patek Philippe to Cartier, Hermès and more

Enamelling at Swiss watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne

Enamelling at Swiss watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne

Enamelling is a tedious process, to put it mildly. The raw material must first be ground into a fine powder, then mixed with a suitable medium (oils or water are both used) to form a paint-like emulsion. This liquid is then applied like paint, before being fired in a kiln to vitrify it the medium evaporates, while the powder melts and fuses into glass. There are variations to these steps, of course. Some manufactures, for example, choose to sieve the power directly onto a base of either brass or gold, and fire this “layer” of powder directly. Whatever the process, every step is fraught with danger. The product may crack during the firing process. Unseen impurities may surface as imperfections. Colours may react in unexpected ways. There are numerous risks to endure. Why, then, does this technique continue to be used in watchmaking?

Despite all its drawbacks, enamel still has a depth and nuance that cannot be replicated anywhere else. It is also permanent vitrified enamel is essentially inert and, like noble metals, remains unchanged even a century from now. Different enamelling techniques are capable of creating a wide spectrum of products as well, from a single large surface free of blemishes, to microscopic levels of detail as part of a painting. Perhaps the romantic aspect of this metiers d’art also accounts for part of its appeal; the time and touch of the enamellist is the perfect counterpoint to the watchmaker, with art on one side and science on the other.

Variations on a Theme

Enamels are fired at various temperatures or not at all depending on their types. Grand feu (literally “great fire”) enamel is fired at around 820 degrees Celsius, although intermediate firings to “set” it may be at around 100 degrees Celsius, to boil the solvent off without fusing the powder. Enamels in general, including those used in miniature painting, may also be fired at around 100 degrees Celsius instead. Finally, there is cold enamel, an epoxy resin that cures and hardens at room temperature.

There are no hard and fast rules to the craft; every enamellist has his/her own materials and approach

There are no hard and fast rules to the craft; every enamellist has his/her own materials and approach

What difference does it make? For a start, higher temperatures are definitely more difficult to work with, since the enamel may crack during firing, or the subsequent cooling down process. The spectrum of colours used in grand feu enamelling is also more limited, as there are fewer compounds that can withstand the temperature. The choice of technique boils down to the desired product for all its drawbacks, grand feu enamel has an inimitable look.

Seiko’s Presage SRQ019 chronograph with white enamel dial

Seiko’s Presage SRQ019 chronograph with white enamel dial

Enamels, porcelains, and lacquers all share common properties of hardness, durability, and the ability to take on both matte and polished finishes. The three aren’t interchangeable though. Lacquer is an organic finish that is applied in layers, with each successive coat curing at room temperature before the next is added. Porcelain is a ceramic that is produced by firing materials in a kiln to vitrify them. Although enamel is also fired, it only contains glass and colouring compounds and lacks porcelain’s clay content.

Raised Fields

In champlevé enamelling, a thick dial base is engraved to create hollow cells, before these cavities are filled with enamel and fired. Because the engraving step produces rough surfaces at the bottom of each cell, the champlevé technique typically uses only opaque enamels. The method allows areas on the dial to be selectively excavated, and for enamels to be mixed freely within each dial. This is done to great effect in Piaget’s Emperador Coussin XL Large Moon Enamel watch, where the gold dial is largely untouched for the “continents”, while the “oceans” are created in champlevé enamel, with differing shades of blue to convey their varying depths.

An excavated cell in Ulysse Nardin’s Classico Goat being filled with enamel using the champlevé technique

An excavated cell in Ulysse Nardin’s Classico Goat being filled with enamel using the champlevé technique

Champlevé enamelling’s use isn’t limited to creating decorative art. In Parmigiani Fleurier’s Tecnica Ombre Blanche, for instance, it was simply the most appropriate technique. Although the timepiece has a simple white enamel dial, its surface is interrupted by three sub-dials and an aperture for the tourbillon. Using champlevé enamelling here allowed each dial element to have a clearly defined border without adding unnecessary thickness. A possible alternative would be to make a complete enamel dial, before cutting out the appropriate sections in the middle. One can, however, imagine the risks of doing that.

Patek Philippe’s Ref. 6002 combines champlevé and cloisonné enamelling

Patek Philippe’s Ref. 6002 combines champlevé and cloisonné enamelling

Is there a limit to the level of details that can be achieved with champlevé enamel? Patek Philippe may have the answer with the Ref. 6002 Sky Moon Tourbillon. Apart from the centre portion, which is produced using the cloisonné technique (discussed later), its dial is a work of champlevé enamel even the railway track chapter ring was milled out in relief, before the recesses are filled with enamel and fired.

Engraving isn’t necessarily the only way to produce the cells used in champlevé enamel though. Hublot puts a modern twist on things with the Classic Fusion Enamel Britto, by stamping the white gold dial base to create the raised borders between the cells. This not only reduces the time needed for each dial but also ensures uniformity between them. Subsequent steps, however, remain unchanged the cells were sequentially filled with different colours of enamel and fired multiple times before the entire dial surface is polished to form a uniformly smooth surface.

Wire Work

Cloisonné enamelling is almost like the opposite of the champlevé technique instead of removing material from a dial blank, things are added on it instead. The “cloisons” (literally “partitions”) here refer to the wires, each no thicker than a human hair, that the enamellist bends into shape and attaches onto a base to create enclosed cells. These cells are then filled with enamel of different colours before the dial is fired to fuse the powder. The wires remain visible in the final product, and look like outlines of a drawing, with a metallic sheen that contrasts with the glassy surfaces of the enamel.

Wires are shaped and attached to a dial to form cells, before enamel is painted in

Wires are shaped and attached to a dial to form cells, before enamel is painted in

Plique-à-jour (“letting in daylight”) enamel can be considered a variation of cloisonné enamel, but the technique is a lot rarer owing to its complexity and fragility. Like its cloisonné sibling, plique-à-jour enamelling involves creating enclosed cells using wires, before filling them with enamel. In this case, however, there is no base. The lack of a backing can be achieved in various ways, but usually involves working on a base layer à la cloisonné enamelling, before filing it away to leave just the wires holding onto vitrified enamel. Since there is no base, plique-à-jour enamelling almost always involves transparent or translucent enamel that allows light through, which essentially creates tiny stained glass windows.

A dial in cloisonné enamel is in the making

A dial in cloisonné enamel is in the making

Van Cleef & Arpels has used the above technique to great effect. In the Lady Arpels Jour Nuit Fée Ondine watch, a 24-hour module rotates a graduated lower dial once a day to mimic Earth’s diurnal rhythm, while an upper dial with elements executed in plique-à-jour enamel forms the foreground. The watch thus creates an ever-changing scene that mimics the rising and setting of the sun and moon, with the appropriate shades of blue for the sky and water, depending on the time of the day.

Hybrid Theory

There are several “hybrid” techniques that combine enamelling with other decorative arts, and flinqué enamelling is arguably the best known given its long history of use. The technique combines guillochage with enamelling a brass or gold dial is first decorated with guilloché, before layers of enamel are successively applied and fired. When this enamel coating is sufficiently thick, it is polished to create a smooth surface; the final result is a translucent lens through which the guilloché is admired. Depending on the desired effect, the enamel used may be colourless to impart a subtle sheen, or coloured for more visual oomph, like the trio of limited edition Rotonde de Cartier high complications unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2015. Vacheron Constantin has even adapted the technique by using guilloché patterns to mimic woven fabrics in the Métiers d’Art Elégance Sartoriale.

Enamel being applied to the engraved white gold base on the Hermès Arceau Tigre

Enamel being applied to the engraved white gold base on the Hermès Arceau Tigre

Developed by the husband-and-wife team of Olivier and Dominique Vaucher, shaded enamel (email ombrant) also involves the application of translucent enamel over an engraved dial. Instead of a regular pattern à la guilloché, however, shaded enamel entails the creation of an image in relief. In the Hermès Arceau Tigre, the likeness of the animal is first carved into a white gold base, before translucent black enamel is applied and fired. A thicker layer of enamel accumulates in areas where the engraving is deeper and appears darker as a result the shading corresponds to the depth of the enamel, which creates an extremely lifelike product.

Cartier Ballon Bleu de Cartier Enamel Granulation with Panther Motif

Cartier Ballon Bleu de Cartier Enamel Granulation with Panther Motif

The final technique here is Cartier’s enamel granulation, which combines enamelling with Etruscan granulation originally used by goldsmiths. The craft requires multiple steps and is extremely tedious, to say the least. Enamel is first worked into threads of different diameters before these threads are chipped off bit by bit to form beads of various sizes. The beads are then sorted by colour and applied to the dial successively to assemble an image, with intermediate firings to set and fuse the enamel. As different colours of enamel fuse at different temperatures, there is a clearly defined order for the assembly process; up to 30 firings are necessary, and each dial requires nearly a month to complete. Like shaded enamel, enamel granulation is a very recent development, and Cartier has only used it on one watch so far: the Ballon Bleu de Cartier Enamel Granulation with Panther Motif.

Metallic Content

Paillonné is among the rarest enamelling techniques today and practically synonymous with Jaquet Droz, which has maintained its expertise in this area. The manufacture currently has two full-time enamellists who don’t just produce enamel dials but also train artisans to perpetuate this know-how.

A paillon being applied to the coloured enamel “base”

A paillon being applied to the coloured enamel “base”

The “paillon” here refers to the small ornamental motifs that are created from gold leaf, and are the calling card of the technique. Essentially, paillonné enamelling involves setting paillons within enamel to form patterns, with regular geometric ones being the norm. To do so, a layer of coloured enamel is first fired to set it. Upon this layer, the paillons are positioned, before translucent enamel is applied and fired, thus “locking” the paillons in. Additional steps can be taken to create even more intricate designs. Before the coloured enamel layer is applied, for instance, the substrate surface may first be decorated with guilloché, which basically creates flinqué enamel that is then decorated with paillons over it. According to Jaquet Droz’s CEO Christian Lattmann, the textured base doesn’t just offer visual benefits but also helps the initial layer of coloured enamel to “stick” better. Lattmann also revealed that the choice of white or red gold as this base will impart a different tone to the finished product as well both because of its inherent colour and because of how the guillochage plays with light.

A watch from Vacheron Constantin’s Métiers d’Art Villes Lumières collection, with applied precious metal powders on the enamelled surface

A watch from Vacheron Constantin’s Métiers d’Art Villes Lumières collection, with applied precious metal powders on the enamelled surface

In lieu of regular patterns, Jaeger-LeCoultre opted for a twist on the technique, by distributing flecks of silver randomly on the dial instead. The result can be seen in the Hybris Artistica Duomètre Sphérotourbillon Enamel, whose enamel dial mimics the look of lapis lazuli. This technique was also used for the second dial of the Reverso One Duetto Moon.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Duetto Moon

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Duetto Moon

While not paillonné enamelling per se, Vacheron Constantin’s use of hand applied precious powder deserves a mention here. In the manufacture’s Métiers d’Art Villes Lumières timepieces, gold, platinum, diamond, and pearl powders are affixed to the surface of the enamel dial by Japanese enamel artisan Yoko Imai. Instead of being covered with a layer of enamel, these particles sit atop them, and catch the light variously to mimic a bird’s eye view of a city at night.

Brush Strokes

Enamel painting is simply painting with enamel pigments rather than some other medium. The technique is challenging not just due to the canvas’s size, which makes it miniature painting as well, but also because of the multiple firings needed to vitrify and set the enamels, colour by colour. Given the level of detail that can be achieved, however, this is one of the few techniques that are capable of making their subjects almost lifelike. Consider Slim d’Hermès Pocket Panthère, which has the eponymous animal rendered in this technique, for example. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso à Eclipse also showcases what enamel painting is capable of with its uncanny facsimile of Van Gogh’s Self-Portrait as a Painter on its dial.

Slim d’Hermès Pocket Panthère being painted. Image © Pierre-William Henry

Slim d’Hermès Pocket Panthère being painted. Image © Pierre-William Henry

Grisaille enamel can be considered a subset of enamel painting, and is a specific method of painting white on black to create monochromic imagery. The black canvas is grand feu enamel that must first be applied, fired, and then polished to create a perfectly smooth surface that’s free of imperfections. This preparatory step is, in and of itself, already very challenging, as minute flaws are extremely easy to spot on such a surface this explains why most watch brands offer white enamel dials, but black onyx or lacquer dials instead of enamel. Upon this black canvas, the enamellist paints using Blanc de Limoges, which is a white enamel whose powder is more finely ground than normal. To create micro details, fine brushes, needles, and even cactus thorns are used, and the dial is painted and fired multiple times to create the nuanced paintings grisaille enamel is known for.

Grisaille enamel painting for Van Cleef & Arpels’s Midnight Nuit Boréale

Grisaille enamel painting for Van Cleef & Arpels’s Midnight Nuit Boréale

Owing to its complexity, grisaille enamel is rarely seen. There are brands that still offer metiers d’art watches with them though, sometimes with their own take on the technique. In its Métiers d’Art Hommage à l’Art de la Danse collection, Vacheron Constantin opted to use translucent brown enamel for the dial base to impart a greater sense of depth, while softening the contrast between the two colours. Van Cleef & Arpels used a midnight blue base in its Midnight Nuit Boréale and Nuit Australe timepieces instead, to evoke the night sky.

This article was originally published in WOW.

Unique watches that break the rules: 7 amazing luxury timepieces from Cartier to Patek Philippe with unconventional designs

Watchmaking is unmistakably about craftsmanship. Some commentators insist that watchmaking is very much like art and this might be true but only if one considers it an industrialized and cooperative art, like filmmaking. Nevertheless, the imaginations of luxury watchmakers have birthed timepieces that are out of this world, effectively making them larger than life. This spread takes that idea and brings it to life, paying tribute to the efforts of the watchmakers. Combining both technical elegance and grit, these seven watches challenge the boundaries of watchmaking, if there are any.

HYT H3

Known for their state of the art luxury fluidic watches, the HYT H3 defies the generalisation of traditional watches. Incorporating a linear design as the series’ trademark, the H3 is a step away from the usual circular face in previous ‘H’ watches.  A capillary is located above a horizontal layer of 6 cubes –which contain each quarter of the day- that operates on a jump hour. Clockwork: the red retrograde minute hand snaps back from 60 to 00 after every hour. When it’s the last hour of the quarter the green liquid retracts back to the first cube signaling a new part of the day. The movement is powered by the energy created a pair of bellows as well as a vacuum in the fluid system. Shockingly unique and mesmerizing, the H3 unlocks a whole new world to watch design and engineering.

Patek Philippe Grand Complications Ref. 6300G-001 Grandmaster Chime

A more classic take on its cousin, the blockbuster Grandmaster Chime Ref. 5175, legendary watchmaker Patek Philippe has unveiled a new reference of its 175th-anniversary giant. The 6300G-001 is a double-faced reversible wristwatch that includes the original 20 head spinning complications. Its two faces showcase the sonnerie and time, the other a full perpetual calendar. The 6300G-001is the most complicated wristwatch of all time but not by the mere number of complications. Obviously there are mechanical wonders with more complications but none has dared to take the pinnacle of timekeeping – the grand sonnerie – to even greater heights by sounding out the date too. As of 2017, no other watch has even come close.

Bell & Ross BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillon Sapphire

Bell & Ross has long been a brand fascinated with vintage aviation design. This admiration has been captured and reimagined in multiple forms through its BR series. With the BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillon Sapphire, this dedication is encased in a 45mm case cut out from nine blocks of sapphire, adding a degree of technical complexity that one can feel as well as see – and see through. This renders the watch fully transparent, providing a window to view all of its intricacies. The case is paired with a translucent rubber strap inlaid with metallic finish woven Kevlar, achieving contemporary style and finish.

Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Astromystèrieux

When you look at a watch like the Rotonde de Cartier Astromystérieux, the illusion it presents is near hypnotic. The watch’s central display area is completely transparent, adding instead of taking away from the mysteries of its workings. With the word ‘mystery’ smack in its name, it is no wonder this piece by Cartier presents itself as another horological puzzle. The question this watch poses is how it is connected to the winding and setting mechanism, which is via the crown. As you can see, there appears to be no connection between the mechanical calibre and the crown. Well, how does it work? Four separate sapphire crystal disks are layered upon each other — each housing a different component — creating an illusion that the entire movement is suspended in the oculus of the watch dial. The juxtaposition between the elegance and complexity of this watch is what makes it breathtaking.

Hublot MP-05 LaFerrari

As Ferrari‘s official timekeeper and watchmaker, Hublot first revealed the MP-05 LaFerrari in 2013 and has since put out a full sapphire version. The original all-black watch was created as a tribute to Ferrari, with its design reminiscent of the iconic LaFerrari car’s V-shaped engine block. The watch’s movement runs on an astounding 637 components, coupled with a scratch resistant sapphire crystal face and a matte black finish for the titanium case. Black anodized cylinders with red accents along the 11 mainspring barrels reveal the time. With an exceptional power reserve of 50 days, the LaFerrari surely does live up to its powerful counterpart.

Franck Muller Vanguard Gravity

Franck Muller‘s avant-garde style is revered as refreshingly different and daring, and this leading watch master has never been known to follow the norms. Part of the Vanguard collection, the Vanguard Gravity embodies the company’s raison d’être of uniqueness in both technicality and design. Boasting peerless visual impact in a tourbillon watch (the tourbillon section is massive), the watch represents an evolution of the Cintrée Curvex aesthetic. Set off center, the balance wheel pulls attention to the curved cage that holds it in place.

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Quatour Cobalt MicroMelt

The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Quatuor Cobalt MicroMelt is not a new watch per se, but rather a revamped version in a striking new material. Having recently made its debut at SIHH 2017, the watch boasts a cobalt-chromium alloy case, making it a world-first. Extremely resistant to the effects of time, the case is made using MicroMelt technology. Like precious metals that maintain their lustre forever, this new material promises to be eternal – while also adding an element of extreme durability. This process consists of melting the alloy down before a high-pressure gas stream is employed, atomizing the alloy and resulting in a powder. Followed by a hot-isostatic pressing, it is condensed into maximum density making the case material extremely durable. The incredible technology used to create this timepiece is what boosts it into our list.

These images were first published as a spread in the Festive Issue 2016 of WOW (World of Watches). The WOW team would like to highlight that this spread was incorrectly credited. The digital artist responsible is Zi Wen. 

VACHERON CONSTANTIN Overseas Small Model in pink gold; TORY BURCH Trocadero wrap dress

Tiara Shaw shows us how to accessorise for every occasion

A popular fixture in the local society scene, Tiara Shaw is much more than the charismatic other half of Shaw Organisation executive vice-president Mark Shaw. The mother of one currently splits her time working in real estate as a Savills Residential sales director, jetting around the world, attending film festivals and business trips with her husband, and managing her start-up boutique wellness-travel portal, Om & Away. Sassy and chic, Tiara shows us her flair in clever accessorising for any occasion about town.

Big on Bulgaribulgari-serpenti

BVLGARI Serpenti tubogas pink gold necklace and earrings with pavé-set diamond scales; BOTTEGA VENETA lurex and wool jacket and pants, soft lurex bra, lurex and viscose scarf, Tippie Mary Jane pumps

Statement Maker
The intense and vibrant deep green beauty of the emerald makes it one of my favourite gemstones

The intense and vibrant deep green beauty of the emerald makes it one of my favourite gemstones

CHOPARD Red Carpet collection necklace with a 95.89-carat heart-shaped emerald and 61.4 carats of diamonds, High Jewellery earclips with 8.96 and 7.5 carats of pear-shaped diamonds on each side surrounded by more diamonds, High Jewellery solitaire ring with a 14.36-carat D-colour, Internally Flawless marquise-cut diamond surrounded by more diamonds; MIU MIU velluto coat, cashmere vest

Chromatic Queencartier-galanterie-de-cartier

CARTIER Galanterie de
Cartier white gold earrings, ring with black lacquer and diamonds, Galanterie de Cartier white gold necklace and bracelet with black lacquer, onyx, and diamonds, Love white gold bracelet with ceramic and diamonds; BOTTEGA VENETA silk organdy dress with paillettes and Swarovski embroidery

Respect for Heritagepatek-philippe

PATEK PHILIPPE Ladies’ Annual Calendar Ref. 4948G in white gold with mother-of-pearl dial; DKNY notched collar fitted jacket

Very Versatilevan-cleef-arpels

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Bouton d’or pink gold necklace with diamonds, white mother-of-pearl, and carnelian, Perlée pink gold and diamonds ear studs, Perlée Couleurs pink gold between-the-finger ring with diamonds and carnelian; TORY BURCH Trocadero wrap dress

Winter Stylejaeger-lecoultre

JAEGER-LECOULTRE Reverso Classic Medium Duetto Ivy Red watch in pink gold with diamonds; CHAUMET Liens white gold necklace with an oval-cut ruby and diamonds, Joséphine Aube Printanière platinum ring with a pear-shaped ruby and diamonds; CH CAROLINA HERRERA wool coat and wool dress

Casual Elegancetiffany-co

TIFFANY & CO. Schlumberger Rope yellow gold and platinum two-row hoop earrings with diamonds, Schlumberger Rope yellow gold three-row X ring, Tiffany T yellow gold hinged wrap-bracelet with diamonds, Tiffany T yellow gold square bracelet; MONTBLANC Bohème Perpetual Calendar jewellery watch; CH CAROLINA HERRERA wool dress.

Credits:

Text by Yanni Tan
Photography Assistance Alfred Phang
Styling Assistance Joey Tan
Studio Assistance Stills Network Team
Hair Sha Shamsi/Indigo Artisans, using L’Oréal Professional
Makeup Cheryl Ow/Indigo Artisans, using Parfums Christian Dior

Review: Patek Philippe World Timer Ref. 5230

One of the most agonising dilemmas, and also the most pleasurable conundrums, a watch collector could ever face is having to choose a Patek Philippe complication, especially if it is to be one’s first complicated Patek Philippe watch – that it wouldn’t be the last is another matter for the very fortunate individuals. Just when your heart says it should be an annual calendar piece, your brain tells you it can only be a chronograph model. Then there’s the world timer, which you’ve set your eyes on since forever…

Don’t bother asking Siri. Unless you want to send her straight into shut down mode – or a complete system meltdown. And don’t type this question into Google unless you want to break the Internet, which is far, far worse. OK, we jest. But it’s not like we have a solution and we have been debating for years. Just know this: there is no right or wrong choice. There is only the timely choice, like this Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5230. Let us explain.

New for 2016, Ref. 5230 is poised to replace all existing world timers at Patek Philippe. This means that it is the latest and most updated version of the watch. Doubtlessly, the manufacture constantly updates all of its timepieces, but for the world timer, this is especially germane, seeing as the world is also constantly changing. In particular, indication of the world’s time zones would see all kinds of fluctuations every now and then. Some zones are now defined by new cities: Dubai instead of Riyadh, for instance, and Brisbane instead of Noumea (capital city of New Caledonia).

In 2014, Moscow switched from UTC +4 to UTC +3. As such, Ref. 5230 is the perfect platform to reflect all these changes, although, the world time display isn’t the only part of the watch to be updated. Patek Philippe took the opportunity to rework the case, dial, and hands, giving the watch a refreshing new look that, however, isn’t too far from its original mien.

While it comes with the traditional Calatrava case, its lugs and bezel deserve special mention. Winglet-style lugs lend it an old-school vibe and the narrow, polished bezel distinguishes it from the earlier world timers. Unlike Ref. 5131, this watch does not have the “Patek Philippe” and “Geneve” engravings on the bezel – for every one collector who would be pleased with this touch of refinement, another will bemoan the loss of a small but treasured detail.

The hands are another part of the watch that got an update. Before, the gold hours hand is ring-shaped. Now, it reflects the contours of the Southern Cross constellation. The minutes hand, too, changed from Dauphine to a lozenge shape. Both hands mark their individual paths around the dial, which features a hand-guillochéd center featuring an elaborate vieux panier basket weave pattern. This center portion of the Patek Philippe world timer is always a source of delight for watch connoisseurs, as it typically showcases exquisite guillochage in various styles (grain d’orge, sunburst, etc) or cloisonné enamel featuring, appropriately, a world map.

Otherwise, the core aesthetics remain unchanged, with a cities ring encircling the dial and the 24-hour ring with day/night indication. Local time refers to time in the city indicated by the red arrow tip at 12 o’clock, while the remaining 23 time zones can be deciphered at a glance. Control the 24-hour ring by pushing the button at 10 o’clock, which is synchronised with the hours hand. The minutes hand, however, can be adjusted freely by manipulating the crown – especially handy when you’re travelling to cities with half- or quarter-hour deviations.

Specs

  • Dimensions: 38.5mm
  • Functions: Hours, minutes, world time with 24 time zones
  • Power Reserve: 48 hours
  • Movement: Self-winding Calibre 240 with 24 time zones and micro-rotor providing 48-hour power reserve
  • Material: White or rose gold
  • Water Resistance: 30 meters
  • Strap: Hand-stitched alligator leather in black or chocolate brown with fold-over clasp

 

This article was first published in World of Watches.

Christie’s Forecasts Realistic Auction Prices

Christie’s Forecasts Realistic Auction Prices

The world has gotten used to ever increasing values for virtually all categories of so-called investments of passion over the last few years. Nevertheless, Christie’s is cautioning that “selective demand” and the global slump in demand is pushing the auction house to seek more “realistic estimates” on their offerings in the coming auction season.

“This year the market is not at the same level as it was one year or two years ago. We are facing a more challenging market,” Guillaume Cerruti, Christie’s president for Europe, the Middle East, Russia and India, told journalists in Dubai.

“To face this situation, the key word for us is selectivity,” he said, announcing two auctions this week in the glitzy Gulf emirate, one on Modern and Contemporary Art and another showcasing Important Watches.

“We want to have sales that are well curated, sales with maybe less objects but of high quality at… realistic estimates,” he said.

Displaying a distinct preference for finding an upside, he did not provide specific figures on the fall in overall sales. Instead, he said that online-only sales “have been a real success.”

“For the first six months of the year, we have sold through our online-only sales of 20 million pounds ($24.4 million) around the world,” a 100-percent over the same period of 2015, he added.

“We’re making sure that we find good quality of works that are well priced to ride through this more challenging period,” said Christie’s Middle East managing director, Michael Jeha.

In an auction on Tuesday of 113 artworks, the highest estimated price has been set at $180,000, far below the $400,000 price tag on paintings sold in March this year. Around 150 watches go up for auction on Wednesday, with estimated prices reaching $250,000.

Among them are two Patek Philippe 18K white gold automatic wristwatches with the Iraqi coat of arms and the name “Saddam”, after executed Iraqi president Saddam Hussein who ordered the watches in 1974 and 1980 as gifts. Their prices are estimated at $10,000 and $18,000 each.

London-based Christie’s, which celebrates its 250th anniversary on December 5, says its sales at Dubai auctions have exceeded $300 million since it opened a branch in the emirate 10 years ago.

Patek Philippe Nautilus 40th Anniversary Watches Ref. 5711/1P

Patek Philippe Nautilus 40th Anniversary Watches

The 1970s were a time of upheaval, especially for the traditional Swiss watch industry, resulting in some modern classics such as the Patek Philippe Nautilus. We are looking today at two new limited edition models that remind us once more of the genius of the late Gerald Genta (he designed the original 1976 Nautilus, reportedly on a napkin) but first we need to set the stage, as it were.

As the Patek Philippe Nautilus celebrates its 40th birthday this year, it is indeed odd that we find ourselves again in a period of unparalleled change. In a strange way, this reminds us that a watch like the Nautilus is resilient in the face of the inexorable march of time. In 1976, when Ref. 3700/1A debuted – the very first Nautilus model – it seemed an unthinkable decision on the part of Swiss watchmaking institution like Patek Philippe. Today, the family-owned company’s decision is celebrated.

The audacious design – typical for Genta – and the fact that it was a sports watch were both somewhat astonishing but this does not really explain why the watch was so important. The Nautilus was cased in steel and that material choice earned the watch its legendary status. For the 40th anniversary, the Geneva-based manufacture has once more made heads turn as both limited edition models for 2016 are in precious materials. Granted, sporty watches in precious materials are not uncommon at all, but honoring a watch that was famous for being made in steel with precious metal models is quite cheeky. Speaking of cheek, the old ads for the Nautilus were all cheek (and they illustrate that Patek Philippe has been casing Nautilus watches in precious metals for some time).

8939_pub_nautilus

This brings us to the watches proper, the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1P 40th Anniversary Edition and the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5976/1G 40th Anniversary Limited Edition. Both retain the signature “hinges” at 9 and 3 o’clock, and have the same eye-catching octagonal bezel as the original. It is enough, we think, to leave it at that for the salient similarities and move on to each of the watches in a little more detail.

5711_1p_rvb_patekpress08_1624568

We’ll address the watches by the reference numbers, as is traditional, as we dive deeper. Ref. 5711/1P most closely mirrors the original Ref. 3700/1A but it is of course cased in platinum with a matching bracelet, which (we imagine) makes it quite a load on the wrist. It is a 40mm time-only watch, with sweep seconds and date, as far as the functions go. There is quite a bit more precious about Ref. 5711/1P than the platinum case and bracelet here. The dial is in 18k gold and so are the hands and the hour makers too, though the markers are set with baguette-cut diamonds. There is one final diamond, set into the bezel at 6 o’clock, which is par for the course when it comes to Patek Philippe’s platinum models. You will already have noticed the embossed words, possibly the most controversial element here. The embossed wording also appears on Ref. 5976/1G. Limited as it is to just 700 pieces, Ref. 5711/1P clearly doesn’t have to appeal to everyone of course.

5976_1g_rvb_patekpress08_1624514hd

Ref. 5976/1G is of course a chronograph, which you will recognize from Patek Philippe’s signature numbering, even if the configuration and pushers don’t clue you in. This model is cased in 18k white gold and it is significantly larger than Ref. 5711/1P. Indeed, at 44mm this is might be one of the largest Patek Philippe watches we have ever covered (neither of these pieces were at BaselWorld, as we reported on so we haven’t seen them up close). Things are a bit less precious here as the dial is in brass (which is a common practice in watchmaking), though the hour markers and hands are all in 18k gold. Unlike Ref. 5711/1P, Ref. 5976/1G uses princess and baguette-cut diamonds. This watch is limited to 1,300 pieces so getting it will be a little easier than scoring the simpler Ref. 5711/1P but not by much.

Specs

  • Ref. 5711/1P
  • Dimensions: 40mm (corner to corner); 44.5mm (end-to-end width, including crown)
  • Functions: Hours, minutes, central seconds, date
  • Power Reserve: 45 hours
  • Movement: Self-winding Calibre 324 S C
  • Case: Platinum 950
  • Water Resistance: 120 meters
  • Strap: Link bracelet platinum 950, foldover clasp
  • Ref. 5976/1G
  • Dimensions: 44mm (corner to corner); 49.25mm (end-to-end width, incuding crown)
  • Functions: Hours, minutes, central seconds, date, chronograph
  • Power Reserve: 55 hours
  • Movement: Self-winding Calibre CH 28-520 C
  • Case: 18k white gold
  • Water Resistance: 120 meters
  • Strap: Link bracelet 18k white gold, foldover clasp
Luxuo World of Watches Rolex Daytona closeup 2016

10 Important Collector Watch Calibres

Car nuts rattle off engine codes as a special lingo that authenticates membership within the tribe; trump card hoarding schoolboys of an earlier age would memorise service designations of combat jets, as well as such vital stats as engine thrust and capacity armament. Watch appreciation too, has a nerdier aspect that finds parallel obsession with calibres, mainly addressed by their number codes: 2824, 2892, 7750, 4130, etc.

Calibres, or movements, are the hearts of mechanical watches and the very engines that divide the continuum of existence into consistent intervals that we might know when it is that we are meeting for lunch.

As has been widely reported, though there are myriad brands in the watchmaking business, at least where the Swiss are concerned, most of the movements come from a single source: ETA. A movement maker within the Swatch Group, ETA supplies movements that can be found in around seven out of 10 Swiss watches, never mind what brand it says on the dial. Of these, the 2824 and 7750 come to mind as being among the most ubiquitous. The self-winding 2824 found in three-hand watches, and the 7750 in automatic chronographs, pretty much cover the field. We will not be including these two movements in our list, as they belong more properly to “movements you already know about”. Rather, our list includes movements that are noteworthy, from a collector’s standpoint for their relevance to the brand or particular collection; or that they represent a milestone in the ever-progressing evolution of the mechanical movement. As a whole, this ensemble was also chosen as a broad survey of watchmaking, old and new.

Patek Philippe Calibre 240Patek-Philippe-Calibre-240

Sitting at the pinnacle of fine Swiss watchmaking, Patek Philippe is renowned for its elegant high complication watches. Such a feat would not be possible were it not for movements like the 240, a trusty, self-winding ultra-thin movement designed to take on more modules for ever more complications, while still looking svelte, and gala-ready. Unlike most self-winding movements sporting a full-sized rotor, the 240’s is a micro-rotor, not stacked on top of the movement (thus adding height) but recessed on the periphery, hence contributing towards a slim profile. At the same time, it does not obscure the beauty of the wonderfully decorated 240 when viewed through a crystal case back, though the rotor too is a thing of beauty in itself, a solid piece of 22K gold.Patek-Philippe-Calibre-240-automatic-movement

Dating from 1977, the 240 has been updated over the years and today features the Spiromax (silicon) balance spring, which offers precision in operation and manufacture as well as resistance against magnetic fields. At its simplest, the 240 drives several of Patek Philippe’s time-only watches such as the Ref. 7200R ladies’ Calatrava.

That said, the 240 was designed as a base calibre to accommodate complication modules while retaining a slim profile. In Patek Philippe’s present catalogue, there exists no less than seven variants with an impressive array of complications, from the 240 HU with world time and day/night indication, 240 PS C with date hand and small seconds, up to the 240 Q offering moon phase and perpetual calendar! With the latter, the number of components had grown by more than 70 per cent, to 275 parts, and movement height increased from 1.61mm to 3.88mm. Because of the added energy required to drive these added components, power reserve had also dipped, but remains at an agreeable minimum of 38 hours.

Specifications

Automatic movement beating at 3Hz, with silicon hairspring and 48-hour power reserve

Dimensions: 27.5mm x 2.53mm

Number of parts: 161

Rolex Calibre 4130Rolex-Calibre-4130

Even in the relatively dignified realm of luxury watch collecting (high expense and a Britannica’s worth of technical history and cult lore promotes sobriety), there are fanboys, and the objects of their fevered affection falls upon Rolexes, not a few. Lusted after at a higher pitch even in this company, is the Cosmograph Daytona, and this was recently demonstrated once again at BaselWorld 2016 when the announcement of a new steel cased Daytona with white dial and black ceramic bezel sent the watch press and enthusiast community into another fit of ecstasy.

Why is this? Some credit surely accrues to the movement behind the silvered/lacquered face: the Calibre 4130.Rolex-Calibre-4130-Daytona-Movement

The Daytona wasn’t always mated to the 4130. Introduced in 1963, it was driven by a hand-wound Valjoux movement till 1988 when it was cased with Zenith’s self-winding El Primero movement (also featured on our list). However, Rolex famously detuned the movement from its native 5Hz to a more conventional 4Hz, while swapping out more than 50 per cent of the El Primero’s original parts. Major surgery; but still, not a Rolex movement. That would come in 2000, in the shape of the 4130, ticking all the right boxes: self-winding, column wheel control, vertical clutch for smooth starts, and Parachrom hairspring designed to perform well against magnetism, temperature variation, and shock. Rolex even reduced the number of parts enough that it could fit in a longer mainspring to achieve an impressive 72 hours of power reserve. It is a chronometer too, naturally.

Specifications

Automatic chronograph movement beating at 4Hz, with 72-hour power reserve

Dimensions: 30.5mm x 6.5mm

Number of parts: 201

Audemars Piguet Calibre 3120Audemars-Piguet-Calibre-3120

Often banded together with Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin as the “Big Three” of high watchmaking, Audemars Piguet is phenomenally plugged into pop culture while remaining firmly anchored in high watchmaking orthodoxy. Like no other, its long resume of firsts in watchmaking innovations and high complications sits very comfortably with associations on the funkier end of the cultural spectrum, being a perennial favourite of sports and rap royalty. Part of this comes from dynamic thinking, like in 1972, when Audemars Piguet practically created a new genre of the luxury sport watch when it introduced a steel watch, finished to the standard and priced accordingly, as one of gold: thus the Royal Oak (RO) was born. Together with the burlier Royal Oak Offshore (ROO) chronograph that came on the scene in 1993, and in an almost unlimited arsenal of limited editions in various colour combinations, the RO and ROO are wont to steal the thunder from the company’s arguably more accomplished collections. The movement that unites the handsome duo, is the self-winding Calibre 3120.Audemars-Piguet-Calibre-3120-movement

Like Patek Philippe’s 240 described above, the 3120 is also a base calibre meant to accommodate more modules for additional complications. What’s different is that the 3120 was not made thin, but robust, including a balance bridge that anchors the oscillator securely on two points, wound by a full-sized solid gold rotor. Its thickness is suited for the masculine, sporty RO and hulkier ROO. In the latter’s case, because the chronograph is a module stacked above the 3120, the date display looks recessed – a quirk that has done nothing to dampen its popularity.

Specifications

Automatic movement beating at 3Hz, with
60-hour power reserve

Dimensions: 26.6mm x 4.26mm

Number of parts: 280

Zenith El Primero Calibre 400Zenith-Primero-Calibre-400

A rock star among movements in more ways than one, the El Primero was unleashed to the world in a relatively low-key press conference in January 1969, which belied its ground-breaking specs. Not only was it the world’s first automatic integrated chronograph movement, it also featured an escapement that blitzed along at an unprecedented 5Hz which offered better chronometry and the ability to measure elapsed times to an accuracy of a tenth of a second. An engineering coup; but Oscar Wilde hit the nail on its head when he complained that people knew the price of everything and the value of nothing. In 1975, Zenith’s then-American owners decided to focus on making quartz watches and ordered the El Primero’s production equipment dismantled and sold as scrap. Instead of complying, an intrepid employee spirited away the El Primero’s technical plans and tooling bit by bit after work. Thanks to Charles Vermot, the El Primero resurfaced in 1984.Zenith-Primero-Calibre-400-movement

Today, the El Primero remains among the fastest beating mechanical movements at 5Hz, in the company of a few brands that have caught up with high beat movements in recent years. Though it started life as a chronograph, El Primero can now also be found in Zenith’s time-only watches such as the Synopsis, which drops the chronograph function but features an updated escapement with silicon wheel and lever visible through an opening on the dial. It has also made its way into the watches of Zenith’s sister brands within the LVMH group: TAG Heuer, Hublot, and Bulgari.

Specifications

Automatic chronograph movement beating at 5Hz,
with 50-hour power reserve

Dimensions: 30mm x 6.6mm

Number of parts: 278

A. Lange & Söhne Calibre L951.6A-Lange-Sohne-Calibre-L951-6

The beautiful images and videos about Lange’s watches and movements belie a much more dramatic history that the Lange manufacture shares with its home city, Dresden. Towards the end of World War II, the city was obliterated by aerial bombing. Lange too ceased to exist after it was nationalised together with other companies into a watchmaking consortium to serve the needs of the Eastern Bloc. But both Dresden and Lange have since regained their place in the world with the end of the Cold War. The former, rebuilt brick by brick – from original rubble, in the case of the magnificent Frauenkirche church; while Lange has shrugged off the mass market tickers it made in the Communist era to return to the high watchmaking of its roots. It is history that informs the ethic at Lange, and the difference this makes is amply demonstrated in Lange’s interpretation of the ubiquitous wristwatch chronograph: the Datograph Up/Down.

While the field is largely divided between sports chronographs made for everyday practicality and ruggedness or daintier dress chronographs meant to add a dash of dynamism to a formal getup, the Datograph is a little different in approach. On the outside, it is almost austere in its devotion to function, driven by visual clarity and balance without anything superfluous. Yet, turn the watch over and the Calibre L951.6 astounds with baroque richness. Lange doesn’t seem to care about ease of manufacture, since the L951.6 has got more parts than many perpetual calendars, all finished with stoic patience and consummate skill. At the same time, it brims with technical innovation: unlike most chronographs where the elapsed minutes is a dragging hand, that on the Datograph jumps from marker to marker, making for much clearer readings. It’s just one of a series of instances where Lange spares no effort in creating innovative solutions to easily overlooked issues, while remaining well within the old school realm of mechanical craft. Moreover, not only is the L951.6 an in-house movement, Lange is also in the even smaller class of companies that make their own hairsprings. No shortcuts.

Specifications

Hand-wound chronograph movement beating at 2.5Hz, with big date and power reserve indicator (60 hours)

Dimensions: 30.6mm x 7.9mm

Number of parts: 451

Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 854/1Jaeger-LeCoultre-Calibre-854-1

In an industry where most watch brands source their movements from other companies, Jaeger-LeCoultre is the technical superpower with more movements than we’ve got fingers to count them (more than a thousand different calibres, in its 180-year history, with hundreds of patents shepherding the evolution of mechanical watchmaking), and distinguished names on its client list include the likes of Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, and Cartier. Jaeger-LeCoultre today boasts a most expansive catalogue that showcases its deep expertise in diverse disciplines, covering high complications, artisan craft, and gem-setting. Of these, its most iconic watch is the Reverso; and even here, this venerable model exists in countless iterations, from petite quartz models for ladies, to high complication models with perpetual calendars, triple dial faces, repeaters, and multi-axis tourbillons spinning in cage within cage. Do we pick the movement one ought to know by drawing movement numbers out of a fish bowl? No. If we have to choose, we’d pick the Calibre 854/1.Jaeger-LeCoultre-Calibre-854-1-movement

The original Reverso was created in 1931 in answer to complaints by British army officers stationed in India over having their precious wristwatches smashed during energetic games of polo. With the Reverso, simply flipping the case over protected the fragile crystal and watch dial, while the metal case back that now faced the outside could be engraved with unit insignias or loving words. Outside the polo experience however, we think it more practical to have a second dial in place of bare steel, tracking a second time zone.

Enter the Reverso Duoface of 1994, refreshed in recent years with an ultra-thin and special edition blue dial versions, displaying time on each of its two sides. The GMT function is among the most practical of complications in this global village century, and while every other GMT watch in the business shows home time either via pointer, or window on one dial, the Reverso is alone in spacing this out over two. It may not be as efficient as checking dual time zones in a single glance, but the clarity can’t be beat. And because the Duoface sports contrasting dials, e.g. silvered dial and black on the reverse, it is essentially two watches in one, able to match near a complete range of dress codes and occasions. All this is made possible with the hand-wound 854/1, a single movement driving two time displays. Time can be set normally by pulling the crown, or when passing time zones, the hour hand in the second display can be advanced in one-hour jumps by pushing the flat pusher on the case side.

Specifications

Hand-wound movement beating at 3Hz, with dual time zone and 45-hour power reserve

Dimensions: 3.8mm thick

Number of parts: 180

Montblanc Minerva Calibre 16.29Montblanc-Minerva-Calibre-16-29

There is a logic to progress that is unflinching, almost ruthless in its efficiency. Making much more of something in shorter time, for much less, is an advantage that is very hard to pass up. For this reason, mass produced commodity is stamping out the niceties of artisan production everywhere. Yet, thanks to companies like Montblanc, industrial prowess is sometimes lent towards preserving precious pockets of artisan production so that future generations may yet wonder and actually acquire heritage objects of rare beauty.

Montblanc churns out timepieces by the tens of thousands a year from its facility at Le Locle. It also has a manufacture at Villeret (formerly Minerva SA before it was acquired by the Richemont Group in 2006 and turned over to Montblanc) that produces only around a couple of hundred timepieces a year – that’s about as many as possible, doing things the old way, everything in-house, with classical tools and machines, largely by hand!Montblanc-Minerva-Calibre-16-29-movement

Minerva was best known for its chronographs, and the Calibre 16.29 that is used in the Montblanc 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter is a gorgeous sample of classical watchmaking. Based on a movement made by Minerva in the 1930s, the 16.29 is huge, filling up the 44mm watch case. There’s a column wheel, lateral coupling instead of vertical clutch favoured by its modern brethren, and the huge balance with weight screws oscillates at a stately 2.5Hz for maximum visual drama. But classical architecture is not the 16.29’s sole merit: lush finishing aside, the serpentine profile of its bridges and levers, including the signature devil’s tail of the chronograph hammer, makes many other chronograph movements
look ungainly in comparison.

Specifications

Hand-wound chronograph movement beating at 2.5Hz, with 50-hour power reserve

Dimensions: 38.4mm diameter

Number of parts: 252

Chopard L.U.C Calibre 98.01-LChopard-LUC-Calibre-98-01-L

Some companies just have the knack for juggling diverse competencies. Among these, Chopard could have been content with the knowledge that its haute joaillerie collections are no strangers to red carpet galas, while its Happy Diamonds watches are extremely popular as everyday luxury. But the latter can no more lay claim to “authentic watchmaking” than could the Swatch watch, though both are phenomenal success stories for their respective companies. To address this, Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele established the Chopard Manufacture in 1996 to create “serious” watches fitted with movements designed and manufactured in-house. Since then, Chopard Manufacture has kept the steady pace of a long-distance runner, creating no less than 10 base movements with some 60 variations, cased in beautifully finished, classically styled watches of varying degrees of complication under the L.U.C label, the initials of the original company founder.Chopard-LUC-Calibre-98-01-L-movement

Of these, Chopard’s 8Hz is a dazzler for sure; but for us, the L.U.C Calibre 98.01-L beating inside Chopard’s Quattro watch is more in character with the company’s bold gambit and tireless consistency. Quattro is Italian for “four”. In the 98.01-L, which was introduced in 2005, that refers to the movement’s four mainspring barrels coupled in two stacks – a world’s first! According to Chopard, each mainspring is 47cm long, and it’s no small feat to squeeze four of them into a 28mm movement that is just 3.7mm thick. As such, the watch boasts a power reserve of nine days when fully wound. What is noteworthy is that this is achieved despite having the movement beat at a relatively quick (and energy-hungry) 4Hz. Moreover, while accuracy can suffer in watches with long power reserves as the energy wanes, the 98.01-L manages to be a COSC-certified chronometer. Add to that, quality and provenance validated by the Geneva Seal, and no room is left to doubt Chopard’s intent and capability in authentic watchmaking.

Specifications

Hand-wound movement beating at 4Hz, with four barrels and nine-day power reserve

Dimensions: 28mm x 3.7mm

Number of parts: 223

Cartier Calibre 1904 MCCartier-Calibre-1904-MC

Cartier has an enviable history of supplying the most exquisite jewellery to royalty, and commercial success as a luxury purveyor to, well, the whole world. Its timepieces, too, have staked their place in watchmaking history. The Santos created in 1904 is one of the earliest true wristwatches (as opposed to pocket watches bound to the wrist by leather straps) for men, originally made for Alberto Santos-Dumont who flew the first true (powered) aeroplanes.

Still, for too long, Cartier hadn’t gotten the respect it deserved, not least for its Parisian (not Swiss) address, and that its most dazzling timepieces and complication creations, particularly those produced between 1998 and 2008 under the “Collection Privée Cartier Paris” (CPCP) label, used movements from companies like Jaeger-LeCoultre and Piaget, though Cartier did the finishing.Cartier-Calibre-1904-MC-movement

The sniggers stopped when Cartier introduced its first Geneva Seal watch in 2008, the Ballon Bleu Flying Tourbillon. However, it is a more mundane watch that is the real hitter into the heartland of Swiss watchmaking: the Calibre de Cartier, launched two years later. Though a humble three-hand with date, it is as pivotal as first love, containing Cartier’s first self-winding manufacture movement, designed, developed and made in-house: the Calibre 1904 MC.

Cartier now has a base movement from which to venture into higher complications, while broadening its reach tremendously, in bringing to market reasonably priced watches with authentic manufacture movements. To this end, the 1904 MC was engineered for reliability, ease of service, and efficient mass production. Performance also factored prominently in its design – though the 1904 MC boasts two mainspring barrels, they are arrayed in parallel, achieving only a modest power reserve of 48 hours, but energy delivery is made more consistent over a broad spread of its state of wind, contributing significantly to accuracy. The 1904 MC is also used in 2014’s Calibre de Cartier Diver, which meets the ISO 6425 international quality standard for diver’s watches.

Specifications

Automatic movement beating at 4Hz, with twin barrels and 48-hour power reserve

Dimensions: 25.6mm x 4mm

Number of parts: 186

IWC Calibre 52010IWC-Calibre-52010

Even among storied brands, IWC stands out for how deeply it has written itself into watchmaking history. Timepieces for air force pilots just as air power was gaining traction among military planners, watches for scuba diving, timepieces for engineers as we turned a corner into the modern technological age – individuals engaged in pushing boundaries on land, in the air, and under the sea need wristwatches and IWC has enriched its own heritage and know-how by making purpose-built wristwatches for them. For a dressier pick, the Portugieser is among the most iconic and best loved. The original introduced in the 1930s was borne from the need for a marine-chronometer grade wristwatch, then only possible by casing a large, high-quality pocket watch movement in a wristwatch case.IWC-Calibre-52010-movement

This collection has been characterised by large cases and IWC’s largest movements ever since, including 2000’s Portugieser Automatic with a 50000-calibre movement that boasts seven-day power reserve and a highly efficient Pellaton winding system. The calibre 52010 featured here is a 2015 update with further technical enhancement and better finishing. Ceramic parts have been added to the winding system, making it virtually impervious to wear and tear; the faster balance now beats at 4Hz for better accuracy. Moreover, 52010 has two mainspring barrels to supply the same seven days’ power reserve with greater consistency for improved chronometry. IWC also partly skeletonised the rotor so the improved finishing of the movement is more readily evident.

Specifications

Automatic movement beating at 4Hz, with two barrels and power reserve indicator (seven days)

Dimensions: 37.8mm x 7.5mm

Number of parts: 257

This article was first published in WOW.