Tag Archives: Gucci

Classic Men’s Style and the New Rules of Classic Elegance

if you haven’t yet noticed, it’s quite apparent that most men don’t dress like this anymore

It is my sad duty to inform you that other than on Suits, it’s obvious that classic men’s style is on the verge of extinction (an article to follow soon on this statement which sounds suspiciously like hyperbole but isn’t); that said, if you haven’t yet noticed, it’s quite apparent that most men don’t dress like this anymore. Officially, the barometer for classic men’s style points towards trends where the trending personal style radar tilts past the devil-may-care insouciance of classic Italian sprezzatura to a level of street style more appropriate described in street nomenclature of DGAF, translated: “Don’t Give A Fuck” style. From T-shirts with ties to loud prints, the old rules have been bent if not broken, but there are new rules of classic elegance which still allow a classic gentleman to endure and thrive a new era of style and dressing. Remember this maxim: Good quality and great taste will always survive tests of time (and trends).

Classic Men’s Style and the New Rules of Classic Elegance

It used to be that every gentleman followed a sartorial template of classic men’s style with room for singular flourishes (a pocket square folded differently or puffed forgetfully), a boutonniere here and there – it was as John William’s Star Wars symphony with recognisable leitmotifs and the familiar comfort of string’s of the Jedi’s theme or Yoda’s motif. Today, style is less Williams and more Hans Zimmer’s Dark Knight, jarring, discordant, rough but with oases of Batman’s theme – a point of sole familial comfort in otherwise attention dominating electro-string compositions. Men’s style today is less about fitting in and more about peacocking (without appearing to be).

Classic Men's Style and the New Rules of Classic Elegance - The Gucci Heritage jacquard suit from Gucci pre-fall 2017 is not quite your stuffy old suit but with traditional, tightly packed motifs, it bears a tonal quality approaching what one might wear classically 'cept that it's not. I'd advise on a different pair of shoes though

Classic Men’s Style and the New Rules of Classic Elegance – The Gucci Heritage jacquard suit from Gucci pre-fall 2017 is not quite your stuffy old suit but with traditional, tightly packed motifs, it bears a tonal quality approaching what one might wear classically ‘cept that it’s not. I’d advise on a different pair of shoes though

My recommendation? The Gucci Queercore brogue monk shoe: A double-strap monk style shoe mixes traditional brogue details with a punk aesthetic. Rounded studs and metal feline head embellish the front.

My recommendation? The Gucci Queercore brogue monk shoe: A double-strap monk style shoe mixes traditional brogue details with a punk aesthetic. Rounded studs and metal feline head embellish the front.

Men’s Style: The Balanced Look (punctuated with whimsical accessories)

Because you’re throwing down good money for men’s garments, the financial hawks that we are would prefer that you put money down on “investment grade” trend-proof pieces that would stand the test of time; to ease your transition (and gradual acceptance) into these new rules of elegance, we highly recommend Alessandro Michele’s Gucci Cruise 2017 collection – an eclectic but still very much English inspired collection of bags, accessories and suits but steroid enhanced in terms of colourways and motifs.

 

New rules of classic elegance dictate that one can get experimental with textures and colours without going the "full Ronald McDonald" - Here, Bally cotton jacket with wool sweater, cotton pants, leather belt and canvas sneakers - coincidentally, this is also a smart casual look

New rules of classic elegance dictate that one can get experimental with textures and colours without going the “full Ronald McDonald” – Here, Bally cotton jacket with wool sweater, cotton pants, leather belt and canvas sneakers – coincidentally, this is also a smart casual look

Playing with colour also means that that striking or even pastel colours transposed on masculine cut garments like this peacoat from Hermes serve to accentuate a classic gents bravado in the rainbow realm

Playing with colour also means that that striking or even pastel colours transposed on masculine cut garments like this peacoat from Hermes serve to accentuate a classic gents bravado in the rainbow realm

With the new rules of classic elegance, it might be time to re-look your travel accessories, starting with brave steps across the airport terminal toting the new Gucci Courrier GG Supreme suitcase. Travel continues to be a source of inspiration for Alessandro Michele. A collection of bags in the GG motif is enriched with a blend of contemporary embroideries-like the UFO-and vintage inspired details, including airmail trims. The appliqués are individually embroidered and then skillfully hand-applied to each piece by specialized artisans. This process ensures that no two items will be alike, giving each a one-of-a-kind appearance.

With the new rules of classic elegance, it might be time to re-look your travel accessories, starting with brave steps across the airport terminal toting the new Gucci Courrier GG Supreme suitcase. Travel continues to be a source of inspiration for Alessandro Michele. A collection of bags in the GG motif is enriched with a blend of contemporary embroideries-like the UFO-and vintage inspired details, including airmail trims. The appliqués are individually embroidered and then skillfully hand-applied to each piece by specialized artisans. This process ensures that no two items will be alike, giving each a one-of-a-kind appearance.

New classic mens style rules also mean going "vintage" - here, the new Longines Legend Diver ref. L3.674.4.50.6, equipped with the unique inner rotating bezel and Longines' L633 movement, now on "shark mesh" or milanese bracelet for a dressy or casual aesthetic depending on your ensemble.

New classic mens style rules also mean going “vintage” – here, the new Longines Legend Diver ref. L3.674.4.50.6, equipped with the unique inner rotating bezel and Longines’ L633 movement, now on “shark mesh” or milanese bracelet for a dressy or casual aesthetic depending on your ensemble.

Getting experimental with textures and colours

Sure, stick to the sombre staples of classic men’s style with a serious palette of blues, greys and browns but do punch things up a bit with bright patterns and motifs like those of Hermes, Bally and Gucci.

A Prada check cotton jacket or blazer with cotton pants pulls equal duty for a smart casual ensemble under the auspices of the new rules of classic elegance. To fulfil the "elegance" aspect of the bargain, I would probably go for something other than sandals.

A Prada check cotton jacket or blazer with cotton pants pulls equal duty for a smart casual ensemble under the auspices of the new rules of classic elegance. To fulfil the “elegance” aspect of the bargain, I would probably go for something other than sandals.

Following the same colour palette of the previous ensemble, I would suggest this pair of Dior Homme ankle sneakers by Kris Van Asche from the Spring 2017 collection - Prince of Wales check embossed grey leather covered with splotches of white or colour paint

Following the same colour palette of the previous ensemble, I would suggest this pair of Dior Homme ankle sneakers by Kris Van Asche from the Spring 2017 collection – Prince of Wales check embossed grey leather covered with splotches of white or colour paint

Alternatively, a Paul Smith wool suit with cotton shirt and Louis Vuitton canvas espadrilles also acquits itself as a dressy while casual ensemble

Alternatively, a Paul Smith wool suit with cotton shirt and Louis Vuitton canvas espadrilles also acquits itself as a dressy while casual ensemble

The new Men’s Smart Casual

The new rules of classic elegance also mean that with DGAF style, your casual weekend clothes can start beginning to pull their weight as parts of your weekday ensemble too. This revolution in classic style has given rise to streetwear which is now luxurious, sneakers which are now artisanal and leather jackets which are less for the motorcycle and more for the office – your weekend uniform now pulls double duty as weekday hallmarks of great sartorialism and stylish panache.

Here, this Prada cotton jacket - like the one Jude Law was wearing in the campaign visuals, is layered on a Prada wool vest, cotton shirt, pants, leather shoes and paired with their three tone leather shoes in brogues. The leather backpack is just icing on cake.

Here, this Prada cotton jacket – like the one Jude Law was wearing in the campaign visuals, is layered on a Prada wool vest, cotton shirt, pants, leather shoes and paired with their three tone leather shoes in brogues. The leather backpack is just icing on cake.

For an even more classic look, try these Jimmy Choo tassel loafers with dandy stripes and tassels

For an even more classic look, try these Jimmy Choo tassel loafers with dandy stripes and tassels

Luxuriously Old School

Fewer devotees to men’s classic styles also means an opportunity has risen to dominate a space in the fashion spectrum where plenty of men have vacated – time to embrace houndstooth patterns and checks again.

Special Thanks to sister publication Men’s Folio for shots and styling.

Image credits for Classic Men’s Style and the New Rules of Classic Elegance – Photography assistant – Alfie Pan, Styling assistant – Henry Boen Lim, Hair – Joanne Er/ Monsoon Salon Novena using Hatsuga, Grooming – Aaron Ng/ Decorum; Photography assistant – Marie Liang, Hair – Junz Loke/ Passion Salon, Grooming – Benedict Choo using YSL; Models – Stefan Fucina/ AVE, Xu Bin

From Hatebeast to Hypebeast: Lawsuits and 30 years later, Streetwear has overtaken Louis Vuitton and Gucci

Tailor Daniel Day aka Dapper Dan was a streetwear pioneer when he incorporated luxury brand motifs by creating "bootleg" fur jackets by adapting branded garment bags, sparking a commercially successful trend. He was eventually sued, his store closed and today, we have come full circle with Gucci paying homage to his original 80s creation. He appears in NYT as a result.

Tailor Daniel Day aka Dapper Dan was a streetwear pioneer when he incorporated luxury brand motifs by creating “bootleg” fur jackets by adapting branded garment bags, sparking a commercially successful trend. He was eventually sued, his store closed and today, we have come full circle with Gucci paying homage to his original 80s creation. He appears in NYT as a result.

It’s official, the luxury industry is at a cross-roads – from big watch conglomerates struggling to find their footing to big fashion brands collaborating with small counter-culture brands for survival and relevance, luxury brand Chief Executives are going to find themselves asking one crucial question – in an industry steeped in heritage, tradition and classicism, how does one look forward without betraying these very values? More importantly, how do brands ensure commercial survival by appealing to a younger generation of shoppers without alienating the old guards?

But first, we need to understand the definition of the phenomenon we’re are about to explore. What is a hypebeast? According to the Urban Dictionary, It is a person who follows a trend to be cool or in style. A person who wears what is hyped up, collecting clothing and accessories for the sole purpose of impressing others.

Born from East-Coast (that is to say Californian) Skate and Surf culture, Streetwear began its roots with basics tees and denims eventually dressed with graphic logos and motifs pioneered by brands like Japanese A Bathing Ape and Supreme. Thus, with the now obvious synergy between prestige branding and prominent (if satirical) labelling, one can start to understand why the blending of cultures between streetwear and high fashion was inevitable.

From Hatebeast to Hypebeast: Lawsuits and 30 years later, Streetwear culture has overtaken Louis Vuitton and Gucci

On 19 January 2017, Guy Trebay opined in the New York Times that “Maybe Louis Vuitton Should Have Stayed Enemies with Supreme” – He recalled a lawsuit in 2000 when Louis Vuitton sued Supreme with a cease-and-desist order when the streetwear label spoofed the Louis Vuitton monogram on their skateboard deck. Little would they know that slightly under 20 years later, Louis Vuitton would be willingly surrendering their precious brand DNA and voluntarily joining prestige wear with devil-may-care streetwear in their latest Louis Vuitton men’s Fall Winter 2017 collection.

Cultural appropriation? Culture War? Or Just plain Culture? A Brief History on Streetwear’s influence on Fashion

In the 1980s, a designer from the streets of Harlem became notorious for his streetwear looks – Daniel Day, better known as Dapper Dan, was a legendary tailor who would make bespoke pieces for his rapper and athlete clientele with logos from many of the big fashion brands. His designs were of such popularity with the likes of Olympic sprinter Diane Dixon (and other notable entertainment celebrities) that his boutique was eventually sued out of existence in 1992.

Gucci Cruise 2018 collection. Image: Gucci instagram

Gucci Cruise 2018 collection. Image: Gucci instagram

26 years later, Gucci dropped a look in their Cruise 2018 collection which appeared to have been ripped off a design by the Harlem tailor and many on the internet were quick to pounce on the fashion house including sprinter Dixon for whom Dapper Dan had famously created the puffy sleeved fur jacket with Louis Vuitton monogram (rather than the interlocking Gucci Gs).

“Give credit to @dapperdanharlem He did it FIRST in 1989!” – Diane Dixon on Instagram

 

In response to the internet ire, Gucci released a statement – “Gucci’s ‘new Renaissance’ cruise 2018 fashion show included references to periods of revitalization spanning many different eras, in particular the European Renaissance, the ’70s and the ’80s. The collection also saw a continuation of Alessandro Michele’s exploration of faux-real culture with a series of pieces playing on the Gucci logo and monogram, including a puff-sleeved bomber jacket from the 1980s in an homage to the work of the renowned Harlem tailor Daniel ‘Dapper Dan’ Day and in celebration of the culture of that era in Harlem.”

Indeed, the Alessandro Michele had tagged him on Instagram after failing to get in touch with Dan in an instagram caption saying: Inside the #GucciCruise18 collection by #AlessandroMichele, a look that celebrates an iconic style of hip-hop fashion culture from the 80s—a plush jacket featuring puffy sleeves monogrammed in GG motif. Legendary tailor Dapper Dan @dapperdanharlem influenced the trend by making such custom pieces for his rapper and athlete clients out of logos from famous fashion houses, including #Gucci. In a homage to Dapper Dan, this jacket worn with jeans and a lurex headpiece is flanked with a striped knit with cross-stitch embroidery, cotton shorts and a georgette gown with trompe l’oeil details.

As THE original “influencer” (today, a derogatory term describing wannabe instagram “bloggers”), so powerful was Dan’s vision that in the 10 years he operated Dapper Dan’s Boutique, he turned a tidy profit upcycling garment bags from Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Fendi which he then cut and tailored into bespoke fur coats and sharp suits. At the height of its popularity, Dan started to offer his custom skills to auto-detailing with services to brand cars with the monograms and logos of upscale fashion brands. It was a look which travelled by word of mouth and walking advertisements (his customers) which caught the attention from rappers to the most unsavory of characters – in an act of true counter-culture, Dapper Dan had appropriated luxurious symbols of wealth for the consumers who wouldn’t otherwise be able to afford it (NYT has an excellent profile piece on Daniel Day, do check it out). That said, while it appears that his “pirated” style of art would eventually be adopted by the likes of Balenciaga, Louis Vuitton and Gucci, the truth is, the fashion world has often been finding inspiration in the street.

 

To Gucci’s benefit, the lessons of history are not lost upon them (as befitting a bonafide heritage brand), rather than sue New York Artist Trevor “Trouble” Andrew into oblivion for selling fake GucciGhost items, Alessandro Michele co-opted the artist into the brand, launching GucciGhost as a capsule collection in 2016. For Cruise 2018, Gucci’s Michele also out-pirated the pirates with dodgy-misspellings on their faux Gucci products by adopting the “GUCCY” label on genuine Gucci products – what are the pirates going to do? Sue? It was a move that was incredibly meta and undeniably street; 10 years ago, no one would ever have thought that a fashion brand would ever be capable of winning a street-fight.

And yet, why should it surprise anyone that the fashion world has been finding inspiration and muse in everyday things? Largely cyclical, Louis Vuitton’s take on the “China” shopping Bag (so named for the Chinese immigrants who used them to carry wares around) in 2007 found a new interpretation in Balenciaga this time, trolling the fashion world with their Thai shopping bag (commonly seen in Bangkok were shoppers at the various Thai market would carry their.. you get the point).

Pictured left: Louis Vuitton shopping bag. Right; "Chinatown" shopping bag popularised by Chinese immigrants

Pictured left: Louis Vuitton shopping bag. Right; “Chinatown” shopping bag popularised by Chinese immigrants

2001: A collision course between Louis Vuitton and Streetwear

How does a heritage malletier that  is trunk-maker become a collaborator with a streetwear brand infused with the edgy rebellion of skateboard indie culture? Slowly. In 2001, then Creative Director Marc Jacobs presided over one of the most non-Louis Vuitton eras in the history of the maison. Jacobs started to work with designers like Stephen Sprouse, Murakami and Yayoi Kusama to re-interpret and get creative with the brand’s signature motifs. Right up till that point, any alteration or perceived “denigration” of the logo was a big no no in accordance with branding principles but Jacobs managed to convince his bosses and the result was a Louis Vuitton reborn for a younger audience, no longer the domain of wealthy white ladies of leisure; reportedly, Louis Vuitton made US$300 million from the collaboration and the maison realised: hey, if it ain’t broke, why fix it?

Marc Jacobs with Murakami at the launch of the Cherry World

Marc Jacobs with Murakami at the launch of the Cherry World

The Cherry World of Takashi Murakami, a collaboration with Louis Vuitton

The Cherry World of Takashi Murakami, a collaboration with Louis Vuitton

Kim Jones is likely the most influential designer you’ve never heard of. Handling high street and high fashion with equal panache is not a skillset that many designers are capable of. A streetwear enthusiast and collector, Jones, a MA graduate of Central Saint Martins, first unveiled his namesake label in 2003 with a collection inspired of 90s rave culture – the sort of underground counter-culture adjacent with the skateboarding, underground party attending crowd. The year after, Umbro by Kim Jones was his foray into sportswear where he pioneered the concept of “athleisure” – a major pillar of streetwear philosophy – garments meant for skateboarding and active living – designer sneakers and fashion pump paired with playful prints  added street flair to once unfashionable sporting attire. By 2006, he was awarded Menswear Designer of the Year Award by the British Fashion Council, with his various looks: suits with sneakers, athleisure tracksuits and puffer coats, he was telegraphic his passion for streetwear from high street to high fashion. When Kanye West was launching clothing line Pastelle in 2008, Jones too headed that project – neon colours and flair, signature of Kanye’s sartorial sensitives were capably demonstrated by Jones. Like Dapper Dan, having an A-list hip hop performer wearing you swag is 100 points on the street-cred-meter. Leaving his position as Creative Director at Dunhill, Kim Jones joined Louis Vuitton in 2011. There he parlayed his deft touch with punk, hype and culture by working with Kiro Hirata – adding an artisanal touch to streetwear through the Japanese craft of patching denim or boro. Jones’s international jetset outlook with childhood from Botswana to Tanzania allow him the advantage of a plethora of motifs which African-American cultures would find attractive. After Hirata, Jones worked with Hiroshi Fujiwara, incorporating more streetwear elements into Louis Vuitton.

“I take the DNA of the brand and infuse it with something else to create excitement, some critics say that I’m just jumping on the bandwagon, but actually I’m not, it’s always been part of my DNA.” – Kim Jones to South China Morning Post

mrkimjones instagram: Louis Vuitton X Fragment coming soon @fujiwarahiroshi photographed by #pieterhugo

mrkimjones instagram: Louis Vuitton X Fragment coming soon @fujiwarahiroshi photographed by #pieterhugo

The critical debate on the joining of streetwear label and luxury brand is heated; thus LUXUO decided to speak to Mark Sabotage, a prominent Singaporean sneaker artist and streetwear aficionado about the debate surrounding the blurring of lines between street and high fashion.

“There used to be a clear line between luxury and street which then became blur and now it’s almost non existent. With this collaboration, it’s now evident. To me, this is a real mark in the history books when street culture rose to power, much like how hip hop became the soundtrack of white america slowly in the early 2000s and especially when Eminem was created.” – Mark Sabotage aka SBTG

So you don’t think it’s selling out? Isn’t this culture about individuality and independence (if not rebellion)?

Supreme runs 20+ years deep and the people who where in the start of such cultures all grew up to be some one of power in whatever industry they are in. And i would think Kim Jones is part of this culture. So to me, its a natural progression.

The world is changing, batons are passed , and young people are more in power now vs 20 years back. So many ‘old’ brands wanna project a younger image now.

Gone is the brown Louis Vuitton signature colourway and in comes the distinct red Supreme colour scheme.

Gone is the brown Louis Vuitton signature colourway and in comes the distinct red Supreme colour scheme.

Doesn’t this benefit LV commercially and hurt Supreme in terms of street cred?

I personally don’t feel so. There used to be a clear line between luxury and street which then became blur and now it’s almost non existent. With this collaboration, it’s now evident. To me, this is a real mark in the history books when street culture rose to power, much like how hip hop became the soundtrack of white america slowly in the early 2000s and especially when Eminem was created.

So this isn’t about rich people branded labels vs. non-conformist street skateboarders – this is more like the natural evolution of two cultures joining together, there never was a “culture war” to begin with?

Yes, it’s my observation since I became a part of the culture since day 1. Some consumers may take it personally and feel betrayed but truly, history happens anyway with or without your consent. Kim Jones has deep street culture background and now he has risen to power and with it, the right to call the shots. Skateboarding has contributed to fashion more than everyone thinks. Streetwear mocked luxury in many ways in the 90s, made spoofs. Skateboarding is the genesis of so many things, Vans shoes has skate roots and now the world is wearing them.

Mr. Sabotage's own 'Charlie 101' cargo tote adapted from a vintage postal and a Birkin bag.

Mr. Sabotage’s own ‘Charlie 101’ cargo tote adapted from a vintage postal and a Birkin bag.

To get the perspective on the fashion side of things, LUXUO spoke to Jasmine Tuan, Creative Director at Brandmama Pte Ltd and Co-founder at FrüFrü & Tigerlily to hear what she thinks of the Louis Vuitton x Supreme collaboration.

Brands are playing strong to keep themselves relevant. – Jasmine Tuan, Brandmama Pte Ltd

Who do you feel it benefits more? Louis Vuitton or Supreme?

It is similar to H&M x Margiela, Marni, Balmain; Collaboration is another way to create hype, media buzz which in turn converts to hype and profit.

Jasmine Tuan, Creative Director at Brandmama Pte Ltd and Co-founder at FrüFrü & Tigerlily; She was also Managing Director of the now defunct but critically successful Blackmarket

Jasmine Tuan, Creative Director at Brandmama Pte Ltd and Co-founder at FrüFrü & Tigerlily; She was also Managing Director of the now defunct but critically successful Blackmarket

But if profit is the objective, what happens to street cred?

In order to sustain any brand, you need money and cash flow. When is the last time a Supreme fan bought a Supreme item? When is the last time an LV fan bought an LV item?

Although both brands have strong following, people might stop going in to a Supreme or LV boutique to shop for their usual range or follow their new collection, but would go visit the brands again for such collaboration since there is a new reason to buy something new and limited.

Some even see it as investment as they know prices will go up and they can fetch profit and returns. It’s a clever move to stir media buzz and sales. Limited editions have been proven to work – H&M collaborations Balmain, Marni, Margiela, Valentino are all snapped by Day one. Today, people are still selling them at a higher price whether it’s worn once or new., simply because you can’t get it in the market anymore.

So the whole point of “counter culture” street wear is irrelevant? There’s no more rebellion? The brands have won?

It still exists and is very much relevant. Just that a few of them who still have minds of their own and are not affected by social media hype. Brands are playing strong to keep themselves relevant.

Louis Vuitton sued Supreme to stop production and sale of the LV skateboard deck. It is noteworthy that instead of the brown colour palette, Louis Vuitton has now adopted Supreme's red colourway instead. Also, an original 2000 Supreme LV deck just sold on eBay for $10,000. Beat that with a stick.

Louis Vuitton sued Supreme to stop production and sale of the LV skateboard deck. It is noteworthy that instead of the brown colour palette, Louis Vuitton has now adopted Supreme’s red colourway instead. Also, an original 2000 Supreme LV deck just sold on eBay for $10,000. Beat that with a stick.

The need to Appeal to the Younger Generation is not Unique to Fashion, the Watch Industry is also undergoing upheaval and renewal

Indeed, targeting the next generation (if not a younger generation) of well-financed consumers is not a phenomenon unique to the fashion industry. The watch industry is also just finding its way out of one of the longest periods of market contraction in recent history.

In 2016, Patek Philippe set tongues wagging when they released the most “unlikely Patek Philippe watch” ever – the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524. According to CEO Thierry Stern, the new novelty was meant to draw attention from a generation of new watch consumers who were “not interested in their father’s watch”, though the brand drew some flak for its close similarity to another manufacture’s offering, the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time was a commercial success, so much so that this year, Patek Philippe launched the US only limited edition 5522A Pilot’s Calatrava as part of the celebrations for the Art of Watchmaking Grand Exhibition. And it’s not just Patek Philippe, brands like Corum are also starting to appeal to a younger audience with fun Bubble watches and collaborations with designers.

Truth is, whatever the commercial realities are in whichever industry, there will always be a clarion call for “honesty” and a rootedness in the brand. For now, in a highly cynical marketplace, there is no doubt that collaborations are commercial successes. But it remains to be seen if collaborations are the way forward, after all, there’s still a demand for authenticity. Sure, there will be demand for Supreme for Louis Vuitton items but there’s a good chance your purist streetwear aficionados who typically queue outside Supreme’s flagship in New York are not the same people who are in line at Vuitton stores. These rebels make an unhyped product “hype” by virtue of their power as trendsetters rather than trend-followers, they alone stand as templars to the concept of street credibility.

That said, we live in a very unique age where the big brands have stopped hating the hypebeast and embraced them; Yet, the hypebeast stands separate from a new creature – the Hautebeast; this Hautebeast is in all of us (at least lovers of luxury goods and prestige products).

 

 

(Star Trek) Gucci Fall 2017 campaign goes where no Fashion Brand has Gone Before

Gucci Fall 2017 campaign in the transporter room of the USS GucciandBeyond - TM & © 2017 CBS Studios Inc. STAR TREK and related marks are properties owned by CBS Studios Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Gucci Fall 2017 campaign in the transporter room of the USS GucciandBeyond – TM & © 2017 CBS Studios Inc. STAR TREK and related marks are properties owned by CBS Studios Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Tapping into the zeitgeist of popular science fiction, Gucci Creative Director Alessandro Michele eschews the Abram-esque vision of Star trek and fully embraces the retro-futurist settings of Roddenberry’s original series with her fantastic Gucci Fall/Winter 2017 campaign. Going where no fashion brand has gone before, (Star trek) Gucci Beyond joins the bridge of what appears to the USS Enterprise 1701 in a alchemical mix of high fashion, alien motifs, scene-scapes and even the Creature of the Black Lagoon.

Gucci Fall 2017 campaign trailer

Explore the fashion frontier with GucciandBeyond

Posted by LUXUO on Wednesday, 26 July 2017

“Anytime I see a movie or a TV show where there’s people from the future or another planet, they’re all wearing the same thing – The one-piece silver jumpsuit, V-stripe, and boots. We’re going to be visiting other planets, we want people to know we’re on the same team.” – Jerry Seinfeld

The muse of 1950s and 60s sci-fi genre proves an apt canvas for Alessandro Michele’s latest Gucci campaign. The Fall/Winter 2017 campaign was first delivered as a collection of Instagram posts in April as Gucci explored brave new worlds – finding new life and sharing their vision of new couture in a universe of humanoids, aliens, robots and earthlings in a galaxy far, far away.

Gucci Fall 2017 campaign takes us to the bridge of the USS GucciandBeyond where thankfully, humanity dresses in more than just a one-piece jump suit with boots - Gucci Fall 2017 campaign in the transporter room of the USS GucciandBeyond - TM & © 2017 CBS Studios Inc. STAR TREK and related marks are properties owned by CBS Studios Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Gucci Fall 2017 campaign takes us to the bridge of the USS GucciandBeyond where thankfully, humanity dresses in more than just a one-piece jump suit with boots – Gucci Fall 2017 campaign in the transporter room of the USS GucciandBeyond – TM & © 2017 CBS Studios Inc. STAR TREK and related marks are properties owned by CBS Studios Inc. All Rights Reserved.

(Star Trek) Gucci Fall 2017 campaign goes where no Fashion Brand has Gone Before

In Gucci’s vision of retro-future, one can be thankful that Seinfeld’s and Star Trek’s vision of the one-piece uniform with boots never comes to pass, instead, human characters togged out in a dazzling array of textures and colours which comprise of the Gucci Fall 2017 campaign greet extra-terrestrials and battle dinosaurs on Earth’s pre-history before being beamed up to psychedelic starship juxtaposes high fashion with sci-fi in a wild, never before seen fantastical composition which underscores how brilliant the commentary is.

GucciandBeyond shows an other worldly fashion sensibility beyond race, culture and species. - Creature of the Black Lagoon courtesy of Universal Studios Licensing LLC

GucciandBeyond shows an other worldly fashion sensibility beyond race, culture and species. – Creature of the Black Lagoon courtesy of Universal Studios Licensing LLC

No fashion or species barrier is too great for GucciandBeyond Fall 2017.

No fashion or species barrier is too great for GucciandBeyond Fall 2017.

Appointed creative director of Gucci in January 2015, Michele  is known for his over-the-top creative direction; testament to his unbounded, unconstrained vision and talent,  he was first tapped by Tom Ford in 2002 where his 12-year tenure within the Gucci design studio spanned a wide variety of roles, by May 2011, he was second only to then Creative Director Frida Giannini.

The house’s Fall Winter 2017 espouse Michele’s larger than life style – with him less isn’t more – more is more and some how, the crazy pattern mixing, embroidery and high sheen almost chrome aesthetic makes even the most classically oriented gent (but then I am a self-confessed Trekker) get beamed aboard Starship GucciandBeyond.

GucciandBeyond patent leather three strip sneaker on transporter pad - TM & © 2017 CBS Studios Inc. STAR TREK and related marks are properties owned by CBS Studios Inc. All Rights Reserved.

GucciandBeyond patent leather three strip sneaker on transporter pad – TM & © 2017 CBS Studios Inc. STAR TREK and related marks are properties owned by CBS Studios Inc. All Rights Reserved.

The original Star Trek inspired series with the Star Wars intro is creating such waves that even fashion-averse geek sites like iO9 have picked up this latest Gucci Fall 2017 campaign. Luxuo is off the opinion that even Michele’s vision of Trek might be more interesting than the mixed-reception that is Star Trek:Discovery.

The new GucciandBeyond campaign begs you to take a leap to the fashion frontier, instead of exploring brave new worlds, it’s an exploration of adventurous sartorialism. Surprisingly, it is to art director Christopher Simmonds and Director Glen Luchford’s credit that this B-movie trailer doesn’t feel kitschy at all. Complete with Ray Harryhausen-like stop-motion effects and a hovering UFO, Gucci is likely the only fashion house which is currently in possession of a Fall 2017 campaign trailer that people actually want turned into a regular series: #gucciandbeyond

 

 

Gucci perfume in 2017: Dakota Johnson named new face of the fragrance “Bloom”

Wholly fashioned by creative director Alessandro Michele, Bloom is the new spring summer fragrance by Italian luxury house Gucci. With actress Dakota Johnson as the face of its campaign, the fragrance is slated to represent the modern woman. The launch of the scent was celebrated on May 2 with a party in New York.

Michele, who was appointed creative director of the house in 2015 and who is responsible for all of Gucci’s men’s and women’s collections, worked in collaboration with master perfumer Alberto Morillas to create this feminine fragrance.

The scent is a mix of tuberose and jasmine, combined with Rangoon Creeper — a unique flower discovered in South India that is being used for the first time in fragrance.  Bloom will be packaged in a classic, rectangular-shaped bottle in powder pink, decorated with a minimalist black and white label. The floral element ties in with Michele’s ready-to-wear designs, which regularly feature botanical motifs.

Italian-born Michele was a leather goods designer at Gucci before taking over as creative director following the departure of his predecessor Frida Giannini. He is credited with breathing new life into the house, and his feminine, vintage-inspired designs have inspired legions of fans around the world.

From May 3, Bloom will be available to pre-order in limited quantities ahead of the official release, which will be in August for the US, but not until Spring 2018 in Europe.

Designer bicycle: Limited edition Gucci ‘Guccissima’ bicycle from 2005 goes up for sale

For those who remember a time when Tom Ford was the creative mind behind Gucci, you may recall that the designer had created more than just designer clothes. Prior to his departure from the Italian label, the designer produced what is now known as the Gucci ‘Guccissima’ Limited Edition 2005 bicycle. For those who would love to get their hands on anything vintage and unique, then this may just be your chance.

According to Cope & Cabrera, who happens to have just one of the bicycle’s as a part of its private collection, this is the first time that one is up for auction. Hand-crafted and a work of art that few will be able to call their own, the bicycle features all the signature Gucci characteristics. From the signature leather seat that showcases the chocolate brown shade that Gucci is known for to the seat pack that is fitted with a buckle enclosure and a double pannier travel bag, no detail has been left to chance.

The metallic bronze frame of the bicycle also displays the signature stripes of Gucci and has the large double-G emblems throughout. If that was not enough, the brand even engraved ‘GG’ on the bell. The bicycle has been on display for eight years now and is said to be in near perfect condition Though, should you wish to own the Gucci ‘Guccissima’ bicycle, be sure to part with a cool US$11,676 — a small price really for something that is expertly crafted.

To learn more about how to get your hands on the Gucci ‘Guccissima’ bicycle, visit Vestiaire Collective for more information.

Gucci Sponsors Chatsworth House Fashion Exhibition

Gucci Sponsors Chatsworth House Fashion Exhibition

Britain’s Chatsworth House has been revealed as the setting for what is widely expected to be one of 2017’s major fashion exhibitions, sponsored by Gucci.

“House Style: Five Centuries of Fashion at Chatsworth” is set to explore the life of the historical Cavendish family and additional famous figures, including Bess of Hardwick, the 18th century “Empress of Fashion” Georgiana, Duchess of Devonshire; Fred Astaire’s sister and dance partner Adele Astaire and Nancy Mitford. Supermodel Stella Tennant will also have a starring role in the show.

Covering art history, fashion, jewelry, design and textiles, the exhibition will tell the story of the Devonshire Collection and the role fashion played in the protagonists’ lives. Curated by International Editor-at-Large at American Vogue Hamish Bowles, it will be set into various rooms of the house and organized by theme, including ‘Coronation Dress’, ‘The Devonshire House Ball’, ‘Bess of Hardwick and the Tudor influence’, ‘The Georgiana Effect’ and ‘Entertaining at Chatsworth’, among others. Highlights include a Givenchy bolero worn on the Duchess of Devonshire’s wedding day, uniforms, coronation robes and fancy-dress costumes, and historic and contemporary couture from Christian Dior, Gucci, Helmut Lang, Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen and Vetements.

“This exhibition proves how much historical objects are an incredible source of inspiration for creating the present,” says Alessandro Michele, Creative Director at Gucci. “Thus far the house has been speaking, now House Style gives a voice to the wardrobes of its inhabitants and guests.

“House Style: Five Centuries of Fashion at Chatsworth”, a 200-page survey of fashion at Chatsworth featuring photographs by Mario Testino, Cecil Beaton and Bruce Weber, will also be published to mark the exhibition.

The exhibition will run from March 25 to October 22 2017. For more information, see www.chatsworth.org

Perfect Pairing: Bridges Between Art, Fashion

Fashion and Art used to be separate worlds, obeying different codes and serving opposite purposes. This season though, the two universes got a step closer, through abounding references and unique collaborations between brands and artists.gucci-perfectpairing-2

From Gucci to Burberry, L’Officiel Singapore selected the most remarkable examples of this phenomenon in their October issue, dedicated to Pop Culture. Read the full “Perfect Pairing” story on lofficielsingapore.com.

Creating Fashion that Sells Isn’t a Sin

What is the point of high fashion these days? Is there a reason that designers still get to sit on their high horses when the most talked about brand these days is Vetements, with all its nonstop talk about “clothing people actually wear”? It’s really an issue of the industry failing to catch up with the times, which is strangely ironic considering that fashion is supposed to represent and extol the times it lives in.

In the aughts of haute couture, and really since before the time of Charles Frederick Worth (considered the progenitor of high fashion) and Marie Antoinette, what fashion represented in the zeitgeist and times was desire. Plain and simple, it was about elevating and making clothing so beautiful, flattering, and jealousy-inducing that it was a means to a social end. Fashion is so strikingly bourgeois and hierarchical today precisely because it has, for so many years, represented a certain degree of sophistication and, indeed, wealth.

Selling isn't a sin: Chanel

Chanel

So what is high fashion for today, if Chanel is no longer haughtily pronouncing items of clothing démodé and instead, planting emojis onto accessories and clothing? If a brand as vaunted and intellectual as Prada is selling bags straight off the runway, can it still maintain a cachet of luxury and intelligence without the stink of shilling products (perhaps by making customers wait for the rest of its seasonal fashion direction)?

Selling isn't a sin: Balenciaga

Balenciaga

I posit that high fashion today is returning to its core, plain and simple, all over again. It is about beautiful clothing, wonderful things people feel an urge to wear, and representing the cultural values of the times. It is why Balenciaga under Demna Gvasalia feels so… right. With its post-modern melding of old-world techniques and new-age street-wise tricks, it has been vaulted right back into the fashion consciousness – and it is worth paying attention to again. With the advertising and PR money of fashion, it sometimes becomes difficult to differentiate what’s worth the time and what’s paid for. The purest reaction, then, is clothing that can convince customers to part with money to put on their back.

Selling isn't a sin: Vetements

Vetements

The ’90s were all at once the best and worst time for intellectual fashion, but that’s gone down the drain now. Conglomeration of brands and companies meant that fashion as an art and a means to an end was becoming monetized. Think of LVMH, Kering and Prada group’s expansions at the time.

Today, LVMH’s brands are represented in a good half of all fashion magazines’ front bumper of ads. Louis Vuitton, Dior, Céline, Loewe, Kenzo, Marc Jacobs, Givenchy, Fendi – even jewelry and watch brands such as Bulgari, Chaumet, Hublot, TAG Heuer, etc. Kering rounds it up with Gucci, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Stella McCartney, etc. Where did the mavericks like Helmut Lang and Martin Margiela go?

In an environment where people simply demanded more and more clothing, it became hard for such intellectually-driven and conceptual designers to continue – never mind that the clothes they designed and created were eminently wearable and beautiful. But it was tricky, because the old shows from Prada, for instance, were such subtle exercises in decryption. Meaning was layered and veiled, and it took a trained eye and mind to pick apart what exactly Mrs Prada was saying each season. Today, a collection like its FW16 vagabond girls-on-the-run one is, while beautiful, almost obvious to interpret. In recent seasons too: fast cars and sweaty glamour, stiff Stepford wives’ tailoring, duney desert travellers. They make big political and cultural statements, but they’re plain to see.

Selling isn't a sin: Saint Laurent

Saint Laurent

Therein lies the problem. When fashion becomes grounds for intellectual concepts, customers get frustrated. It was famously hard for people to grasp Craig Green’s debut SS15 collection with flowing judoka quilts and banners bound to the models. But it struck a chord with the industry collective viewing the show – inspiring some tears, even. Here was a collection set against an Enya soundtrack, resplendent in creative liberty and in the luxury of time it took to craft. It was beautiful and it sold. Next season, he did a similar thing – line and silhouette were only slightly different, but there was a complete reversal in the reaction of the press. Lambasts of similarity and repetition abounded, and it became clear that the industry was on the same page as its readers’ attention spans. Never mind giving designers time to develop an idea and letting it stew, mutate, evolve and be felt out. We wanted more and more of the new.

Selling isn't a sin: Prada

Prada

So where is intellectual fashion’s place in today’s fast-paced commercial churning environment? It is a conundrum that is hard to solve. Perhaps that is why Vetements is so successful – because it makes you feel like you’re thinking and being smart about things while contributing no effort at all. Perhaps it is why Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent was such a runaway commercial success – because you didn’t have to think while wearing his clothes, you just had to partake in his vacuous vein of L.A. grungy cool. Perhaps it is why Phoebe Philo’s Céline is so influential – women don’t have to think about what they’re representing to the world because Philo’s clothing whispers refinement for them. Perhaps it is why Alessandro Michele’s Gucci is so refreshing – they’re simply fun to wear (the same, season after season) and don’t offer much by way of a political or cultural message.

I am not against any of this.

Selling isn't a sin: Jacquemus

Jacquemus

On the contrary, it is the way fashion is today, and to whine about time gone by is to be astoundingly near-sighted – rather, rear-sighted. Karl Lagerfeld has been so good for Chanel exactly because he takes to the times he lives in like a cultural sponge. There’s a respect to the historical foundations of the brand, but even more surely a perspective of today.

Selling isn't a sin: Gucci

Gucci

What I’m saying is that “commercial” isn’t necessarily a bad word. We’ve been wary of the financial beast for long enough; it’s time to be smart about it and synthesize what we know with what we want. There’s a reason designers such as Christian Lacroix went out of business despite his reign in the ’80s and ’90s in Paris: extravagance and bonanza dresses stopped becoming relevant. After sobering financial crashes, actual plane crashes and a global worldview of uncertainty, the dream was over.

Selling isn't a sin: Dries Van Nolen

Dries Van Nolen

Today, the new dream is perhaps clothes that slide right into daily life. A note: I’m not saying poorly designed and poorly made clothes with nary a thought or smarts should get a pass for being easy to buy and wear. I’m talking about fashion that has a contextual place in contemporary culture and represents a designer’s point of view. Ultimately, that’s the place of fashion: on our backs.

This article was first published in L’Officiel Singapore.

Alessandro Michele Declares Trends Dead

Does anyone else have trouble telling the Gucci seasons apart? I, for one, have to guess by the set of the show and the embroidery motif of the season (if it’s a bee or snake, for example). Since Alessandro Michele took the helm at the Italian house, there’s been an industry-shaking revitalisation of fashion and, indeed, a new creative powerhouse in Milan. At the start of Michele’s Gucci, things were so intoxicatingly fun one didn’t bother taking the time to dissect the meaning of the clothes. Sequins, bees, velvet, fur, lamé – not a second’s hesitation, I had to have all of it!

Three seasons in, though, and it’s about time we think a little about what makes the Italian wunderkind’s magpie, art-sieving and vintage-adoring aesthetic work. Michele pulls a great number of references: Pucci, Saint Laurent, Valentino, Prada, Zegna, Tom Ford, Cavalli, Ralph Lauren, among many others. In some frothy dresses, too, one senses a bit of Valli and Elie Saab. What makes them stand leagues apart, though, is the quasi bad taste approach he’s taken to things. As if a cupcake of a multicoloured tiered dress isn’t enough, here’s an off-shoulder sleeve with an exaggerated puff and fur trimming. Not content with this humongous yellow fur jacket? Have some yellow-tinted sunglasses, bags, shoes and leggings to really look like an expensive version of a Sesame Street character. It’s that daring to go just over the edge of conventional taste that makes his designs so exciting.

To really appreciate this Gucci, though, one must go into the stores and look at the clothes up close and personal. While most fashion houses produce editorially-minded runway shows and end up stocking commercial pieces in stores that weren’t shown, Michele’s Gucci gives you everything you see on the runway. It’s when they’re taken apart that you realize, in a tizzy, that you want a bit of everything. A racing-striped skirt, for example, is less intimidating to approach when you take away the matching bag, socks, and bejewelled cable knit sweater. A bomber jacket with a pink fur collar, too, becomes easier to appropriate without its contrasting floral blouse and abundance of appliquéd ribbons.

For the more traditionally minded, the tailoring retains that Gucci edge of slender sexiness. A full black pantsuit is straightforward. Take it up a notch, and you can try the peak-lapelled cream suit. One more step forward, and perhaps a Prince of Wales checked suit with hanging tassels and jewellery. For the bravest, the option of either a top-to-toe hot pink ensemble, or a fur-cuffed and fully-sequinned disco number.

What the man is saying with his clothes has quietly taken a hold of the industry’s psyche towards churning out marketable trends – shallow, mass-produced kitsch-chic and clashing versions that imply bad (or indeed, no) taste. Dig a little deeper, and you’ll see that the Alessandro Michele is really about clothes for every individual, for every taste, and for ever.

Gucci Cruise 2017, Tom Hiddleston

Tom Hiddleston Fronts New Gucci Campaign

Who needs Taylor Swift when you have Gucci? Having spent several months as the man who may have inspired another Swiftian tune, Tom Hiddleston has ditched that unsightly “I Heart T.S” t-shirt (why? Just, why?) and, instead is looking dapper in a tailored suit by Gucci for the brand’s new Cruise 2017 campaign.Gucci Cruise 2017, Tom Hiddleston

The British actor, who is rumoured to be in the running for James Bond, is photographed in a series of shots in a luxurious estate, once owned by the late artist Tony Duquette, in Los Angeles. With Hiddleston as the new face of Gucci, Alessandro Michele enlisted the help of photographer Glen Luchford to capture the laidback sophistication for the new campaign.Gucci Cruise 2017, Tom Hiddleston

However, Hiddleston is not the only star of the campaign. His co-stars are Afghan hounds with hair so sleek and smooth, we feel envious of their manes by simply looking at these shots. These beautiful creatures, the Afghan hounds we mean, are not the first animals to star in Gucci campaigns. For example, for the brand’s Cruise 2017 campaign and Spring 2016 campaign, Michele had in fact included farm animals and peacocks respectively.

Etro does stripes - spring/summer 2017 - Milan. © AFP PHOTO/ALBERTO PIZZOLI

5 Highlights from Milan Fashion Week SS17

Spring/summer 2017 of Milan Fashion Week bridged subtle sentiments and exuberant opulence. Even though eyes will be on Paris now, some offerings were just simply unforgettable. Here, we recap five highlights of the Milan presentations.

Frills for days

Like many labels showing collections in Milan, Diesel Black Gold brought frills to its spring/summer 2017 line. © ALBERTO PIZZOLI / AFP

Just like New York and London, frills were the trend-of-the-moment at Milan Fashion Week. It brings a display of flamboyance with a side of sensuality. Gucci’s interpretation was adorned with golden embellishment, while Blugirl and Diesel Black Gold (above) incorporated frills on their dresses.

Prints plethora

Prints on the Dolce & Gabbana runway - spring/summer 2017 - Milan. © AFP PHOTO/ALBERTO PIZZOLI

No matter the shape and size, prints and patterns are here for the season. Florals in spring may not be groundbreaking, but it is a perfect match – as demonstrated by Blumarine and Roberto Cavalli. Other designers also played with varieties of stripes (Etro, Cristiano Burani, Fendi), spots (Anteprima), geometrics (Versace, Byblos Milano), ethnic prints, and abstract patterns (Giorgio Armani). Dolce & Gabbana (above) stood out with Italy-inspired prints. 

Diverse array of dresses

A long dress by Blumarine - spring/summer 2017 - Milan. © GIUSEPPE CACACE / AFP

Dresses were all the rage at the Milan shows. Some were cut short, like at Francesco Scognamiglio, Fendi, Giorgio Armani and Giamba. Longer iterations carrying a bohemian and romantic vibe were seen at Blumarine (above), Gucci, and Etro. Meanwhile, N°21, Anteprima, and Bottega Veneta opted for calf-length cuts

A sporty finish

A pleated dress by Byblos Milano - spring/summer 2017 - Milan. © GIUSEPPE CACACE / AFP

The trend was spotted at Fendi, Versace, Byblos Milano (above), Philipp Plein and Francesco Scognamiglio. Even though most collections were naturally feminine and elegant, designers added more color with sportswear accents. Specialist materials, zips, hoods, pockets, and sneakers were incorporated to the collections. Athletic-inspired pleated dresses were also spotted.

Retro-grade

etro hot pants from Prada - spring/summer 2017 - Milan. © ALBERTO PIZZOLI / AFP

The past merged with the present in conversation-worthy attire. Designers paid tribute to the 1970s with tight high-waisted hot pants and sensational prints at Prada (above), as well as Roberto Cavalli’s flared pants. Gucci in particular, fully embodied the retro spirit as it continues its current period.

Gucci Milan Fashion Week 2016

3 Beauty Trends: Milan Fashion Week

Milan Fashion Week is over and we are gearing up for the next round of runway shows that we will certainly cover in due course. However, before we hop over to Paris, we took a look at some of the beauty looks that made an appearance on the ramp. The three beauty looks here may even be key trends to look out for this season.

Glittery FunFendi Milan Fashion Week 2016

The vibrant trend was out in full force starting with Fendi. Bringing his love for fun and games to the runway, Karl Lagerfeld decked Gigi Hadid and the rest of his lovely models out with winged eyeliner and glittery pouts (above). The result was a striking and sequin-like effect that captivated the audience. Over at Giamba, models sported the glitter in a way that created an illusion of floating brows. Versace featured the trend as well but concentrated on the inner eyes, making their take on the trend slightly more wearable. However instead of using actually glitter, the brand chose to use just a dab of iridescent metallic shadow that captured the light.

Youthful HairDiesel Balck Gold Milan Fashion Week 2016

The trend saw a playful vibe carried over from the beauty looks to hairstyles with unsophisticated styles dominating the runways. From miniature top knots (above) at Diesel Black Gold to the pigtails at Fendi, the designers added a little bit of fun to their collections. At Emanno Scervino, models walked the runway with ruler-straight schoolgirl bangs and pastel hair shades.

Surreal FashionAtsushi Nakashima Milan Fashion Week 2016

Of course, fashion week would be a yawn without a few daring designers who went to the extreme with their looks. At Atsushi Nakashima, models presented the designs while sporting painted-on misplaced lips (above). Over at Cividini, prismatic eye shadow in colorful hues made for a bold look while Gucci embraced exaggerated wigs (main picture) that played with proportions.

Gucci Spring/Summer 2017

Gucci Spring/Summer 2017: Magic Lanterns

The Roman designer credited with reviving the fortunes of what was a flagging brand returned to the themes that have underpinned his turnaround and, it seemed, pushed each envelope a little further. Androgynous looks were more prevalent than ever, his trademark giant glasses more jewel-encrusted than before, the platform shoes more vertiginous and shimmering with gems.gucci-milan-fashion-week-runway-4

The idea, according to Michele’s notes to a show entitled “Magic Lanterns,” was to create a collection in which “the clothes tell a story steeped in wonder, phantasmagoria and unorthodoxy.” That meant, in practice, that the converted railway siding that hosted the show was done up with pink velvet banquettes to create an ambience somewhere between a super-kitsch 70s nightclub and a courtesan’s boudoir.Gucci Spring/Summer 2017

Slippers with platform wedges were said to have been inspired by Venetian prostitutes, gowns were enriched with embroideries and ruffles and there were sparkly gold and purple leggings aplenty. Wild animals were a theme on bags and on the backs of austere tweedy jackets. Suits on the male models nearly all featured three-quarter length trousers while the bell-bottomed female versions might have been designed for a hairy-chested lothario from the early 70s.Gucci Spring/Summer 2017

The inspirations for hairstyles were equally eclectic – spanning a range from Mork and Mindy to Marie-Antoinette. That eclecticism might have been what Michele was referring to in his notes when he explained that he was seeking to “cultivate the unexpected.” He certainly did that and star guests actress Dakota Johnson and the cellist Kelsey Lu looked impressed.Gucci Spring/Summer 2017

But the initial online reaction was not nearly as rapturous as has been the case for Michele’s previous collections. Has he gone too far this time? Gucci’s French owners will not mind as long as sales keeping ticking up as they have done consistently under the designer’s artistic stewardship.

Gucci Spring/Summer 2017

Livestream: Gucci Spring/Summer 2017

Gucci brings us its final standalone women’s runway show at Milan Fashion Week. The brand will be merging its men’s and women’s runway shows from next season which makes this a significant show for the brand. Catch the livestream for Gucci’s Women’s Spring/Summer 2017 runway show on September 21 at 8.30pm.

Gucci Cruise 2016 Ad Campaign

Gucci Brings New Web Experience to Korea, Japan

The Internet holds no terrors for Italian luxury label Gucci as it expands its reach with its redesigned website into the Korea and Japan markets. Fans of the brand there finally get a look at what the new site can do, after its launch in the US last October.

The new online concept for Gucci.com, pioneered by the brand’s new Creative Director Alessandro Michele, aims to better integrate content and e-commerce functionalities, and includes an editorial section titled “The Agenda” which provides further insight into the fashion house’s collections.

The fresh-look site, which made its debut in the United States last October and was then extended to Europe, the United Arab Emirates and Australia in March, has also been designed to be more mobile-friendly. Bear this in mind when you visit the site from anywhere else because your experience will be very different. We hope the powers-that-be at Gucci (and parent group Kering) will see fit to standardize this experience globally so no market is left behind.

Michele was tapped by iconic designer Tom Ford in 2002 and his 12-year design tenure at Gucci (in various roles) was followed by his appointment as the new Creative Director of the house in 2015 in a bid to give the brand a fresh direction.

Gucci #24HourAce: International Artists Takeover

Advertising doesn’t have to conform to a single formula, especially when one is as imaginative as Alessandro Michele. Following the success of the #GucciGram last year, this year sees the #24HourAce. For 2016, the house of Gucci tapped artists all over the world to create Instagram short films, as well as take over the label’s Snapchat for an hour each based on the theme of the Gucci Ace sneaker.

On July 27, fans of the brand were treated to a 24-hour Snapchat broadcast, as well as a mini tour of the world, as artists posted from Tokyo, Brazil, Norway and New York, among other countries. Art is not bound by geography.

For those of us who have missed the Snapchat takeover, Gucci’s Instagram holds treasures from the collaboration. Read more about the #24HourAce on Men’s Folio Singapore.

This story is also available in Bahasa Indonesia. Read it here: Gucci #24HourAce: Takeover Akun Snapchat Gucci Oleh Jajaran Seniman

18 Best Pre-Fall Womenswear Trends 2016

From androgynous dress suits in floral prints to saccharine-sweet pastels and kitsch sensuality, the trends for Pre-Fall 2016 are pretty diverse, so there’s something for everyone. Here, our friends at L’Officiel Singapore have done the research for you to bring you 18 looks you should sport for the transitional season.

DRESSY SUIT

18 PF16 Trends_Givenchy

Givenchy by Ricardo Tisci

When it comes to suiting now, bolder is better. Give your classic navy and black suits a rest and look to versions in daring prints and opulent fabrics – think Bottega Veneta’s mismatched tailoring or Givenchy’s flower-embellished stunner punked up with studded boots.

STANDARD (RE)ISSUE

Alexander Wang

Alexander Wang

Military gets a cool downtown vibe with Alexander Wang’s introduction of grunge elements – beanies, 
chains and opaque tights – and unexpectedly ladylike accents in the form of velvet heels.

DOUBLE COATED

Dior

Dior

A clever take on layering by the design team at Dior, with a gently curved olive coat shrugged over another coat in rich brown fur. A lace-trimmed slip and sparkly flats lends ease and lightness to the look.

SHEAR THING

Burberry

Burberry

Shearling continues to be a giant trend for Pre-Fall, turning up as cool outerwear at brands as diverse as Coach, Paco Rabanne and Stella McCartney. Christopher Bailey showed an oversized one at Burberry, which he paired with sleek flares and a boyish rucksack.

FUN FURS

Fendi

Fendi

Shearling’s more luxurious cousin is also having its moment in the sun, but these furs are not your grandmother’s dowdy ones. Pre-Fall’s best shaggy pieces come in fabulous hues and patterns like those on Marni’s graphic check fur stole, Valentino’s ombre fur robe and Fendi’s floral explosion.

CANDY CRUSH

Michael Kors Collection

Michael Kors Collection

Considering the fact that most Pre-Fall collections hit shop floors at the height of summer, it makes sense to drench them in sweet, uplifting shades. Giorgio Armani showed tiered dresses in washed-out blues, Sportmax proposed pale lemon for our outerwear, while Michael Kors had us thinking pink.

MASCULINE FEMININE

Versace

Versace

Boy-meets-girl is a trope fashion loves to reinterpret. This season’s offerings include Jason Wu’s jackets that were sculpted for a feminine silhouette, butterfly and lipstick prints on an Alexander McQueen pantsuit, and Prince-of-Wales tailoring at Versace shot through with baby blue and worn with a tiny skirt.

SHINE ON

Emilio Pucci

Emilio Pucci

Who says that sequins should only come out when the sun goes down? When styled with the right pieces, metallics make a wonderful daytime statement too. Case in point: Phillip Lim’s gold wide pants, worn with a silk shirt, and Emilio Pucci’s sequined shirt, paired with a breezy skirt and a sandal-sock combo.

PRETTY PLEATS

18 PF16 Trends_Gucci

Gucci

The pleated midi skirt is fashion’s favourite skirt shape of the moment and no one does it better than Alessandro Michele. This season he rendered it in high-impact silver worn with an equally shiny pink bomber. Elsewhere, Michael Kors, Giorgio Armani and Max Mara also offered beautiful options of the pleated midi.

MODERN ETHNIC

Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen

The current-season way to pull off ethnic influences can be seen in the collections of Alexander McQueen and Altuzarra. The key is to go for a sharper, more fitted silhouette; the end look needs to come off sleek and polished instead of billowy and bohemian.

POWER TULLE

Stella McCartney

Stella McCartney

Where Miuccia Prada goes, others are sure to follow. After last season’s enchanting tulle layers at Miu Miu, the gauzy fabric is shaping up to be a key layering element. Molly Goddard has built a name with her joyful tulle creations, while Stella McCartney presented a womanly version worn over trousers and a bustier.

TIE DYE TWIST

Valentino

Valentino

Designers are reinventing tie-dye with a luxe spin, moving it farther away from hippie-dippy and muddy music-fest connotations. Our favourite version is from Valentino, where the saturation is amped way up and cut into a modern anorak, juxtaposed with a smart shirt and thigh-highs.

SWEET ’60s

Bally

Bally

The youthful charm of the ’60s look has always endured – who can resist the appeal of a little skirt, a fitted jumper and a flattering peacoat? The best looks aren’t faithful reproductions, though; we love Pablo Coppola’s take at Bally where the coat is cut ultra-sharp in bright red and the skirt comes in glossy leather.

’70s REDUX

Saint Laurent

Saint Laurent

The ’70s is another decade that fashion keeps returning to, but no one makes a more convincing case than Hedi Slimane. At Saint Laurent, he conjured up the bohemian glamour of Loulou de la Falaise with his swishing culottes and midi skirts, all topped with silken blouses and showstopping cloaks and capes.

NAUGHTY & NICE

Chanel

Chanel

Fashion loves a good clash of contrasting ideas and this season, designers are riffing on the themes of naughty and nice. Bally has a sharply tailored trench in glossy, fetishistic patent; Alexander Wang put fishnet tights under prim skirts and Karl Lagerfeld invoked Italian screen sirens wearing leather and lace with tweeds and pearls.

SPORTS COUTURE

Paco Rabanne

Paco Rabanne

Athleticism in fashion is here to stay but the most talented, innovative designers are constantly finding new ways to elevate and marry it with high fashion. J.W. Anderson, for example, created bold new things from the idea of nylon and tracksuits, while Julien Dossena at Paco Rabanne cleverly mixed zippers and mesh with lush materials for an effortless but luxurious take.

PUFF PIECE

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton

The grandly exaggerated Edwardian shoulder continues to get more play for Pre-Fall. It showed up with retro inflections at Gucci, while at 3.1 Phillip Lim and J.W. Anderson, it was deconstructed and updated for today’s cool girls. But the most interesting mash-up was at Louis Vuitton where Nicolas Ghesquière paired sculpted shoulders with motorcross leggings and edgy, chunky boots.

DENIM DREAMS

Valentino

Valentino

This wardrobe staple has been given a fancy upgrade for Pre-Fall. At Carven, it was mixed with shearling and shown as a total-look statement. Julie de Libran also showed denim-on-denim at Sonia Rykiel but her looks were embroidered while Massimo Giorgetti’s Pucci pieces were printed with feathers. The most whimsical were Valentino’s versions, which bore elaborate scenes and dreamscapes.

 

 

Gucci Announces Second Phase of DIY Service

It is Creative Director Alessandro Michele’s wish for the customers to reinterpret his aesthetic and express themselves through personalization. You’ve seen the DIY Dionysus bag – Gucci now takes it a step further with unisex jackets and shoes, all at the mercy of your creative prowess.

Fabrics, colors, motifs and even embroidered initials can be switched up to one’s heart content. Go crazy; it’s a little piece of Michele with a little piece of you.

Read more about the collection on L’Officiel Singapore or on Men’s Folio Singapore for a different take.

Prints: Resort 2017 Runway Trend

Monochrome and graphic color blocking are so last season. Don’t believe us? Just take a look at the latest resort 2017 collections to have hit the runways. From abstract, animalistic to floral, the trend is certainly going to excite those who have never been drawn to the plain and safe choices of seasons past.

Edun Resort 2017

Edun Resort 2017

Of course, that isn’t to say that all the prints are loud and vibrant to the point of no return. Fashion — as it always has — provides us with a vast range to choose from and this trend has something for everyone. Those who veer towards minimalist fashion should look to Edun. Inspired by the iconic image of Diana Ross in the 1970s as she lounged by a swimming pool in Palm Springs as well as the Gio Tribe of Northeastern Liberia, the brand has brought out a whole host of colors. Producing a stripe pattern, Edun brings ecrus, rose pinks and soft pale blues together with vibrant yellows and reds.

Michael Kors Resort 2017

Michael Kors Resort 2017

Don’t care too much for color? Michael Kors is your man (or designer). With the help of contemporary houndstooth, tinsel-style stripes and polka dots, the designer shows us how prints can be done in style. Alternative aesthetics are available in the form of floral and feminine motifs from the likes of Carven, whose Prairie-style skirts were livened up with colorful embroidery, and Rochas, whose dainty take on the tropical herbarium saw fluid fabrics dappled with printed orchids, hibiscus, jasmine and wild geraniums.

Dior Cruise 2017

Dior Cruise 2017

Continuing the floral theme was Dior with dainty tea dresses showcasing tiny blooms. A surprising move was from Gucci, whose loud Britannia-loving collection that was filled with Union Jacks and tartans also made way for the girlish and flowery maxi skirts. Of course, the bold and the fashionable are also richly rewarded this season thanks to Moschino. Embracing prints of every kind, the brand channelled the 1970s with full-length animal prints. Another who followed the path of the bold prints was Emilio Pucci who brought palm tree prints, while Roberto Cavalli favored a whirlwind of kaleidoscopic patterns and colors. Even the normally restrained Chanel threw caution to the wind at its Cuban resort show, unveiling patchwork printed jumpsuits and glitzy shift dresses on the catwalk.