Following on the heels of London and Milan, it will soon be the French capital’s turn to showcase its Spring-Summer 2017 collections for men. We have the latest news on the newcomers, the big names who won’t be there, and some changes in store.
Will Paris be the only fashion capital to resist the far-reaching changes shaking up the ready-to-wear and luxury fashion industries? Whatever happens, its men’s shows will give us a first glimpse of the fashion of the future.
Upheaval in London and Milan
There has recently been a move away from tradition, with designers and luxury fashion houses increasingly combining their men’s and women’s collections and moving into “see now, buy now” as they believe there is too long a delay between the shows and the clothing going on sale, given current social media trends. The consequences of this move were seen in London from June 10 to 13. Few of the big-name fashion houses were present, and Burberry – which is normally a leading light at the event – cancelled its show in order to combine its men’s and women’s collections together next September. This was a major shakeup to the London schedule.
Milan will also be impacted by this upheaval. The number of shows is slightly down compared to last year (just five shows less), but a number of big names – including Ermenegildo Zegna, Roberto Cavalli and Bottega Veneta – will not be there. Some of the houses which decided against a fashion show, chose instead to provide a simple presentation, while others decided not to unveil their collection at the event. Fashion fans can console themselves with the fact that Prada, Missoni, Vivienne Westwood, Marni, Versace and Giorgio Armani will all be there.
Paris is resisting the trend
The French capital seems to be fighting these changes, for this season at least. Although one major announcement caught everyone by surprise this month. Saint Laurent announced on June 7 that Anthony Vaccarello, its new creative director, will not be presenting a show during men’s fashion week in Paris. The designer’s first collection for Saint Laurent will be unveiled during Fashion Week in September. Is this the first in a long list of no-shows or is it simply because the timeframe was too tight for Saint Laurent’s creative director who was only appointed last April? Only time will tell.
Songzio, which has put on a runway show in Paris for several seasons, will also not be there this time. However, the unveiling of the brand’s SS 17 collection was not cancelled, as it was organized in London, on June 13.
In the meantime, the newcomers seem to be unaffected by these seismic changes in the fashion world. For the first time, the Sean Suen brand will present a collection as an official member of the event (on June 26, at 15:00), as will Facetasm (on June 22, at 11:00) and Off-White (on June 26, at 17:00). Three shows worth watching in light of what’s going on.
And the heavyweight fashion houses will still be present, including Dior Homme, Lanvin, Hermès, Balmain Homme, Cerruti, Berluti, Kenzo, Louis Vuitton, and Valentino.