Tag Archives: Kering

Bottega Veneta Merges Men’s, Womenswear Shows

Luxury fashion brand Bottega Veneta took a page out of the Gucci playbook (a corporate stablemate at Kering) and announced that going forward it will combine its menswear and womenswear ready-to-wear shows. Well, so reports British Vogue and the AFP.

The change is set to take place in February at the brand’s Milan Fashion Week autumn/winter 2017 womenswear show. After this point the brand will show both collections at the womenswear fashion weeks in February and September.

The news comes after many other design houses have decided to shake up their schedules, with DSquared2 and Burberry also now opting for co-ed collections combining both menswear and womenswear.

Like Burberry, other high-profile designers including Tom Ford, Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren have also announced that they too would also be adopting a a see-now, buy-now capacity.

However because Bottega Veneta have chosen to combine its collections in its womenswear slot, rather than a month earlier, product will remain on the shop floor for longer. Creative director Tomas Maier had already commented to Vogue back in September that the brand “remains committed to a timing of presentation and launch that gives production the time necessary to create a sophisticated handcrafted collection that conveys a dream even before it hits the boutiques.”

Gucci Cruise 2016 Ad Campaign

Gucci Brings New Web Experience to Korea, Japan

The Internet holds no terrors for Italian luxury label Gucci as it expands its reach with its redesigned website into the Korea and Japan markets. Fans of the brand there finally get a look at what the new site can do, after its launch in the US last October.

The new online concept for Gucci.com, pioneered by the brand’s new Creative Director Alessandro Michele, aims to better integrate content and e-commerce functionalities, and includes an editorial section titled “The Agenda” which provides further insight into the fashion house’s collections.

The fresh-look site, which made its debut in the United States last October and was then extended to Europe, the United Arab Emirates and Australia in March, has also been designed to be more mobile-friendly. Bear this in mind when you visit the site from anywhere else because your experience will be very different. We hope the powers-that-be at Gucci (and parent group Kering) will see fit to standardize this experience globally so no market is left behind.

Michele was tapped by iconic designer Tom Ford in 2002 and his 12-year design tenure at Gucci (in various roles) was followed by his appointment as the new Creative Director of the house in 2015 in a bid to give the brand a fresh direction.

Top 10 Luxury Firms 2016 Revealed

Deloitte’s reveals, for the third year running, the best performing companies in global luxury. Now, we usually argue against paying heed to how well luxury companies are doing, earnings wise, because this doesn’t tell you anything about the products or the experience. Also, some firms, such as Rolex, are not particularly transparent as they are not public. Anyway, for those who care, Deloitte’s annual Global Powers of Luxury Goods ranking sees the parent companies behind Louis Vuitton, Cartier and Estée Lauder retain their places at the top of the list. The AFP has the following details on it.

French-based LVMH, full name LVMH Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy SE, also owns Bulgari, Chrisitian Dior, Emilio Pucci, Donna Karan, Marc Jacobs, Hublot, TAG Heuer, Moët Chandon, Dom Perignon and Benefit Cosmetics. Based on figures from 2014 (the most recent data available, apparently), it is also the world’s biggest luxury conglomerate.

Swiss company Richemont (Cartier, Dunhill, Lancel, Montblanc, Jaeger-LeCoutre, Piaget) comes in second, with the US’s Estée Lauder group (MAC, Clinique, Jo Malone) in third. The top three retain their places from 2015’s equivalent Global Powers of Luxury Goods report.

Italy’s Luxottica manufactures eyewear under the its own Ray-Ban, Persol and Oakley brands as well as for Chanel, Armani, Versace, Prada and more, and moved up one place to fourth.

Also moving up one were Switzerland’s Swatch (Breguet, Longines, Omega) and France’s Kering (Gucci, Saint Laurent, Balenciaga), with Hong Kong jewelry group Chow Tai Fook moving from fourth to seventh.

L’Oreal Luxe (Lancôme, Biotherm, Kiehl’s), Ralph Lauren, and PVH (Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger) completed Deloitte’s top ten, which is cam out June 7.

Francois Pinault Houses Collection in New Museum

The billionaire luxury goods tycoon Francois Pinault, who helms luxury group Kering and the auction house Christie’s, has been in the art world for some time now – he boasts one of the biggest private art collections in the world (valued at around $1.4 billion). Now, Pinault has finally found a place to house his collection — which contains the work of artists ranging from Mark Rothko to Damien Hirst — and will open it to the public for viewing. The Bourse de Commerce is a building that’s also at the intersection of Art and Business. The beautiful building’s interior was decorated by a number of painters, and it’s also been the site of a few fashion shows. Pinault – also famous for being the husband of Salma Hayek – has been unable to find a suitable home for the collection in Paris for decades, and, before, only showed them at private museums in Venice.

Francois Pinault

Francois Pinault

The city’s mayor Anne Hidalgo, who negotiated the deal, described the museum as “an immense gift to the heart of Paris”. “I am delighted, it’s a big plus for the city,” Hidalgo told AFP, pointing out that the new museum is also close to the Pompidou Centre, Europe’s biggest contemporary art collection. Another businessman who helped put Paris on the modern art map was France’s richest man, and Pinault’s business rival, Bernard Arnault – who opened his own Frank Gehry-designed Louis Vuitton Foundation for his art collection last year.

The Bourse de Commerce is part of a one-billion-euro urban renewal project to give what Hidalgo calls a “new beating heart” to the city’s Les Halles district. As a part of the deal, Pinault and his family will be given a 50-year lease on the building, which they must also renovate (the cost or rent was not revealed). This must be a boon for Pinault, who tried to build up a museum at the site of an old Renault car factory on the Ile Seguin in the middle of the Seine west of Paris, but gave up in despair in 2005 over planning delays. The gallery will open in 2018, sources close to the collector told AFP.

“It is great to have our captains of industry helping to fly our colors. With this and the FIAC art fair, Paris is regaining its place in contemporary art” Hidalgo noted. The collection will definitely be of great value to the Parisian public, and help foster the cultural consciousness of the city overall.

Hedi Slimane Departs Saint Laurent

It seems that some artists just can’t sit still. Yes, an artist, because regardless of what people think about him, that’s what Hedi Slimane is. The obsessive fashion designer/photographer will make his second exit from Saint Laurent after his four year stint as creative director – a role that he made full use of, with his focused vision and his eccentricities, pushing the whole fashion house to even greater heights than before.

[UPDATE] WWD reports that Anthony Vaccarello will replace Slimane at Saint Laurent. Vaccarello is currently Creative Director of Versace’s Versus line. More on this news will follow once the brand makes a formal announcement (which is here), consigning Slimane to memory.

Well, actually some people remember Slimane probably more for the aforementioned eccentricities. For example his dropping the ‘Yves’ part of the name (which our friends at L’Officiel Malaysia remarked on) that caused an outcry among fans of the brand. Then there are his impulsive retorts towards certain journalists who panned his shows and his dedication to a full vision of rock and punk flair. Last month’s show was especially contentious with its parody of 1980s fashion, lack of music, and the fact that the whole display took place in a mansion rather than a show-space.

There was also that point in time when Slimane moved away from fashion and took up photography. Go over to his Hedi Slimane Diary to catch a glimpse of his ridiculously prolific photo record of the different facets of his life – a powerful slice of youth captured in his own special way.

For the record, this departure also comes after the shocking splits of a few other names over the past months, including Raf Simons from Dior, Alber Elbaz from Lanvin, and Massimiliano Giornetti from Ferragamo. The official statement released by Saint Laurent saw that this was “the end of a four year mission, which has led to the complete repositioning of the brand”.

The end of a mission? You can probably tell that this is not the end for Slimane, by a long shot. Slimane probably has a new mission bursting to life somewhere in the inner workings of his mind. Some rumors even point to a return at Dior, but knowing him, there’s a chance it doesn’t even involve fashion at all.

Whatever he does next, the world will still be watching him.

Alexander Wang Is Leaving Balenciaga

Alexander Wang fall 2015 show

Fashion designer Alexander Wang is reportedly parting ways with luxury clothing brand Balenciaga.

Balenciaga and parent company Kering will not be renewing the US designer’s contract, which would make the spring 2016 Paris Fashion Week their last hurrah together, according to a Women’s Wear Daily report.

Reasons for the split remain unknown, although industry insiders say the brand will replace Wang with another designer.

Puma Logo

Puma joins forces with Kering Eyewear

Puma Logo

German sportswear manufacturer  has signed a partnership with Kering Eyewear to create sunglasses and optical frames.

Puma’s contract with Charmant — its current eyewear partner — expires in January 2016, reports WWD. Their first collection together is called “Collezione Uno” and it will be unveiled later this month.

“A new phase in the world of eyewear is beginning for us,” stated Puma chief executive officer Bjørn Gulden.

Gulden thanked Charmant for their 12 years of partnership and for having brought Puma Eyewear the success it has enjoyed over the years.

Frida Giannini and Patrizio di Marco

Giannini And Di Marco Both Leave Gucci

Frida Giannini with Patrizio di Marco

‘s chief executive officer and creative director are leaving the global luxury brand, its parent company Kering said in a statement on Friday.

Patrizio di Marco, who has headed Gucci for six years, will leave as of January 1 and will be replaced by Marco Bizzarri, who served as chief executive of Bottega Veneta for more than five years before heading up Kering’s Luxury Couture & Leather Goods Division in April.

Gucci creative director and Di Marco’s partner,  who has been with the house for 12 years, will leave in February, after showing her 2015 F/W collection. Her replacement has not yet been announced.

Frida Giannini and Patrizio di Marco

Rumours that Di Marco would be replaced at the helm of Gucci have swirled for months, as Gucci’s sales have steadily slid since 2013.

The Italian brand is the prized jewel for Kering, the luxury goods holding company that owns brands like Bottega Veneta and Stella McCartney.

Gucci’s new boss Bizzarri oversaw a “dramatic” increase of sales and profit during his time at the helm of Bottega Veneta (2009 – 2014), when he was appointed to head up Kering’s Couture and Leather Goods division.

Marco Bizzarri

“After successfully setting up Kering’s ‘Couture & Leather Goods’ division in only a few months, I am fully confident that he will now build on Gucci’s extraordinary legacy to have the 93-year-old house enter a new momentum and continue to write bright chapters of its exceptional history,” said KERING chief Francois-Henri Pinault.

STORY: LUXURY GROUP PPR CHANGES NAME TO KERING

Joseph Altuzarra

Kering invests in Altuzarra

altuzarra

Kering, the luxury conglomerate formerly named PPR, announced on Friday that it had taken a minority stake in Altuzarra, the label started in 2008 by the French-American designer Joseph Altuzarra.

Joseph Altuzarra’s namesake label is one of the hottest young brands in fashion, with his clothes regularly spotted on red carpet-trotting celebrities including Jessica Paré and Jennifer Lawrence.

“This partnership will allow us to take the Altuzarra brand to the next stage of its development in accordance with my creative vision. I could not be happier or more proud!” said Altuzarra.

Born in 1983 to a French father and a Chinese-American mother, the young designer somewhat spans the transatlantic fashion divide, and set up his own label in New York City, having previously worked as assistant to Givenchy creative director Riccardo Tisci in Paris.

The move comes as Kering looks to establish its stronghold among the next generation of fashion designers. In January this year the company announced that it had purchased a 51 percent stake in the highly rated London fashion label Christopher Kane.

PPR had previously invested in (then emerging) designers Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen, growing the two labels into global brands.

Gucci Opens Men’s Flagship in Milan

Gucci men flagship store Milan

Italian fashion house Gucci has opened its first men’s flagship in Europe in the heart of Milan, the historic Brera district, in front of the internationally renowned museum Pinacoteca di Brera.

Gucci men flagship store Milan

The new shopping destination is surrounded by the Milanese art district’s prestigious galleries, design boutiques, and antique shops.

Gucci men flagship store Milan

Boasting a design concept by Creative Director Frida Giannini, the Gucci men’s store spans more than 500 square meters across three floors and features a dedicated area for the Made to Measure program: a personalized, luxury sartorial offering for the modern day gentleman.

Gucci men flagship store Milan

A series of backlit panels with the House’s Diamante pattern lead the way inside the store. Signature Gucci materials of rosewood and ebony are enhanced with the introduction of new elements such as matt light grey marble – exclusively used in Gucci men’s stores – fluted glass, warm brushed bronze, smoked mirror and smoked bronze glass, recalling the elegance and richness of the Art Deco era.

Gucci men flagship store Milan

The flagship features a full range of menswear including ready-to-wear, shoes, luggage & lifestyle accessories, small leather goods, sunglasses, watches, jewellery and fragrances at the ground floor.

Gucci men flagship store Milan

On the upper floor, a dedicated space complete with a VIP fitting area showcases the Made To Measure program together with Made To Order service for men’s shoes. The lower level hosts a further selection of the men’s ready-to-wear collections along with shoes, silks, an assortment of sunglasses and belts.

Gucci men flagship store Milan

Gucci’s Brera store will be the first to offer the capsule collection designed by Creative Director Frida Giannini and Lapo Elkann, conceived as “Lapo’s Wardrobe.”

Milan Brera district

Pomellato bracelets

Kering (PPR) Acquires Jewellery Brand Pomellato

Pomellato Jewellery

French luxury and sports brand group Kering – formerly known as PPR – said it bought Italian jeweler Pomellato for an undisclosed amount.

The company’s success is based on the personality and style of its creations with a blend of colors, stones and shapes as well as their fine Italian craftsmanship.

The Pomellato group is a profitable and growing Italian business with two brands, Pomellato and Dodo. The first positioned within the fine jewelry segment and the latter within the accessible jewelry segment.

Its distribution network includes 86 mono-brand stores (45 Pomellato, 41 Dodo) as well as approximately 600 independent points of sale around the world.

There is plenty of room for growth for this company and Kering said its expertise and resources in real estate, distribution, media and brand management will help in that area.

PPR did not say how much it paid for Pomellato, which had 2012 revenue of 146 million euros ($190 million), but a banking source told Reuters last month the deal would value the business at around 350 million, or 15 times core profit.

The acquisition comes following Kering’s recent re-branding and name change, and is the firm’s first investment since welcoming Christopher Kane into its stable of brands in January.

Within PPR/Kering, Pomellato will complement its other jewelry brands: high-end Boucheron, based on Paris’ Place Vendome, and Qeelin, a midprice Chinese jeweler PPR bought last year.

Francois Henri Pinault Kering

Luxury group PPR changes name to Kering

Kering

PPR, the owner of some of the world’s biggest luxury brands (Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen and Stella McCartney), is rebranding itself to help complete a tr ansformation.

From June 18, the business formerly known as PPR (originally Pinault-Printemps-Redoute) will be called Kering (the word has its origins in the Breton language, meaning ‘house’). Kering also unveiled a visual identity includuing an owl logo with a heart-shaped face, and a new tagline “Empowering Imagination.”

Founded in 1963 by businessman François Pinault, the company is now run by his son François-Henri Pinault and has been a publicly-traded entity since 1988. The transition to a luxury holding began with an investment in 1999 in the Italian leather goods specialist and fashion brand Gucci Group.

Kering also own sports brand Puma, and in January this year purchased a 51 percent stake in emerging London design talent Christopher Kane.

brioni store

PPR Buys Menswear Brand Brioni

brioni store

French luxury products giant PPR said on Tuesday it was acquiring Italian high-end menswear brand Brioni, in line with the restructuring of its business.

PPR has “signed an accord with Brioni shareholders to acquire 100 percent of the capital,” it said in a statement, without giving a figure for the deal.

PPR head Francois-Henri Pinault said this acquisition “completes our portfolio of luxury brands … in the mens’ ready-to-wear segment,” which is growing fast.
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