Tag Archives: Gucci

Gucci Cruise 2017, Tom Hiddleston

Tom Hiddleston Fronts New Gucci Campaign

Who needs Taylor Swift when you have Gucci? Having spent several months as the man who may have inspired another Swiftian tune, Tom Hiddleston has ditched that unsightly “I Heart T.S” t-shirt (why? Just, why?) and, instead is looking dapper in a tailored suit by Gucci for the brand’s new Cruise 2017 campaign.Gucci Cruise 2017, Tom Hiddleston

The British actor, who is rumoured to be in the running for James Bond, is photographed in a series of shots in a luxurious estate, once owned by the late artist Tony Duquette, in Los Angeles. With Hiddleston as the new face of Gucci, Alessandro Michele enlisted the help of photographer Glen Luchford to capture the laidback sophistication for the new campaign.Gucci Cruise 2017, Tom Hiddleston

However, Hiddleston is not the only star of the campaign. His co-stars are Afghan hounds with hair so sleek and smooth, we feel envious of their manes by simply looking at these shots. These beautiful creatures, the Afghan hounds we mean, are not the first animals to star in Gucci campaigns. For example, for the brand’s Cruise 2017 campaign and Spring 2016 campaign, Michele had in fact included farm animals and peacocks respectively.

Etro does stripes - spring/summer 2017 - Milan. © AFP PHOTO/ALBERTO PIZZOLI

5 Highlights from Milan Fashion Week SS17

Spring/summer 2017 of Milan Fashion Week bridged subtle sentiments and exuberant opulence. Even though eyes will be on Paris now, some offerings were just simply unforgettable. Here, we recap five highlights of the Milan presentations.

Frills for days

Like many labels showing collections in Milan, Diesel Black Gold brought frills to its spring/summer 2017 line. © ALBERTO PIZZOLI / AFP

Just like New York and London, frills were the trend-of-the-moment at Milan Fashion Week. It brings a display of flamboyance with a side of sensuality. Gucci’s interpretation was adorned with golden embellishment, while Blugirl and Diesel Black Gold (above) incorporated frills on their dresses.

Prints plethora

Prints on the Dolce & Gabbana runway - spring/summer 2017 - Milan. © AFP PHOTO/ALBERTO PIZZOLI

No matter the shape and size, prints and patterns are here for the season. Florals in spring may not be groundbreaking, but it is a perfect match – as demonstrated by Blumarine and Roberto Cavalli. Other designers also played with varieties of stripes (Etro, Cristiano Burani, Fendi), spots (Anteprima), geometrics (Versace, Byblos Milano), ethnic prints, and abstract patterns (Giorgio Armani). Dolce & Gabbana (above) stood out with Italy-inspired prints. 

Diverse array of dresses

A long dress by Blumarine - spring/summer 2017 - Milan. © GIUSEPPE CACACE / AFP

Dresses were all the rage at the Milan shows. Some were cut short, like at Francesco Scognamiglio, Fendi, Giorgio Armani and Giamba. Longer iterations carrying a bohemian and romantic vibe were seen at Blumarine (above), Gucci, and Etro. Meanwhile, N°21, Anteprima, and Bottega Veneta opted for calf-length cuts

A sporty finish

A pleated dress by Byblos Milano - spring/summer 2017 - Milan. © GIUSEPPE CACACE / AFP

The trend was spotted at Fendi, Versace, Byblos Milano (above), Philipp Plein and Francesco Scognamiglio. Even though most collections were naturally feminine and elegant, designers added more color with sportswear accents. Specialist materials, zips, hoods, pockets, and sneakers were incorporated to the collections. Athletic-inspired pleated dresses were also spotted.

Retro-grade

etro hot pants from Prada - spring/summer 2017 - Milan. © ALBERTO PIZZOLI / AFP

The past merged with the present in conversation-worthy attire. Designers paid tribute to the 1970s with tight high-waisted hot pants and sensational prints at Prada (above), as well as Roberto Cavalli’s flared pants. Gucci in particular, fully embodied the retro spirit as it continues its current period.

Gucci Milan Fashion Week 2016

3 Beauty Trends: Milan Fashion Week

Milan Fashion Week is over and we are gearing up for the next round of runway shows that we will certainly cover in due course. However, before we hop over to Paris, we took a look at some of the beauty looks that made an appearance on the ramp. The three beauty looks here may even be key trends to look out for this season.

Glittery FunFendi Milan Fashion Week 2016

The vibrant trend was out in full force starting with Fendi. Bringing his love for fun and games to the runway, Karl Lagerfeld decked Gigi Hadid and the rest of his lovely models out with winged eyeliner and glittery pouts (above). The result was a striking and sequin-like effect that captivated the audience. Over at Giamba, models sported the glitter in a way that created an illusion of floating brows. Versace featured the trend as well but concentrated on the inner eyes, making their take on the trend slightly more wearable. However instead of using actually glitter, the brand chose to use just a dab of iridescent metallic shadow that captured the light.

Youthful HairDiesel Balck Gold Milan Fashion Week 2016

The trend saw a playful vibe carried over from the beauty looks to hairstyles with unsophisticated styles dominating the runways. From miniature top knots (above) at Diesel Black Gold to the pigtails at Fendi, the designers added a little bit of fun to their collections. At Emanno Scervino, models walked the runway with ruler-straight schoolgirl bangs and pastel hair shades.

Surreal FashionAtsushi Nakashima Milan Fashion Week 2016

Of course, fashion week would be a yawn without a few daring designers who went to the extreme with their looks. At Atsushi Nakashima, models presented the designs while sporting painted-on misplaced lips (above). Over at Cividini, prismatic eye shadow in colorful hues made for a bold look while Gucci embraced exaggerated wigs (main picture) that played with proportions.

Gucci Spring/Summer 2017

Gucci Spring/Summer 2017: Magic Lanterns

The Roman designer credited with reviving the fortunes of what was a flagging brand returned to the themes that have underpinned his turnaround and, it seemed, pushed each envelope a little further. Androgynous looks were more prevalent than ever, his trademark giant glasses more jewel-encrusted than before, the platform shoes more vertiginous and shimmering with gems.gucci-milan-fashion-week-runway-4

The idea, according to Michele’s notes to a show entitled “Magic Lanterns,” was to create a collection in which “the clothes tell a story steeped in wonder, phantasmagoria and unorthodoxy.” That meant, in practice, that the converted railway siding that hosted the show was done up with pink velvet banquettes to create an ambience somewhere between a super-kitsch 70s nightclub and a courtesan’s boudoir.Gucci Spring/Summer 2017

Slippers with platform wedges were said to have been inspired by Venetian prostitutes, gowns were enriched with embroideries and ruffles and there were sparkly gold and purple leggings aplenty. Wild animals were a theme on bags and on the backs of austere tweedy jackets. Suits on the male models nearly all featured three-quarter length trousers while the bell-bottomed female versions might have been designed for a hairy-chested lothario from the early 70s.Gucci Spring/Summer 2017

The inspirations for hairstyles were equally eclectic – spanning a range from Mork and Mindy to Marie-Antoinette. That eclecticism might have been what Michele was referring to in his notes when he explained that he was seeking to “cultivate the unexpected.” He certainly did that and star guests actress Dakota Johnson and the cellist Kelsey Lu looked impressed.Gucci Spring/Summer 2017

But the initial online reaction was not nearly as rapturous as has been the case for Michele’s previous collections. Has he gone too far this time? Gucci’s French owners will not mind as long as sales keeping ticking up as they have done consistently under the designer’s artistic stewardship.

Gucci Spring/Summer 2017

Livestream: Gucci Spring/Summer 2017

Gucci brings us its final standalone women’s runway show at Milan Fashion Week. The brand will be merging its men’s and women’s runway shows from next season which makes this a significant show for the brand. Catch the livestream for Gucci’s Women’s Spring/Summer 2017 runway show on September 21 at 8.30pm.

Gucci Cruise 2016 Ad Campaign

Gucci Brings New Web Experience to Korea, Japan

The Internet holds no terrors for Italian luxury label Gucci as it expands its reach with its redesigned website into the Korea and Japan markets. Fans of the brand there finally get a look at what the new site can do, after its launch in the US last October.

The new online concept for Gucci.com, pioneered by the brand’s new Creative Director Alessandro Michele, aims to better integrate content and e-commerce functionalities, and includes an editorial section titled “The Agenda” which provides further insight into the fashion house’s collections.

The fresh-look site, which made its debut in the United States last October and was then extended to Europe, the United Arab Emirates and Australia in March, has also been designed to be more mobile-friendly. Bear this in mind when you visit the site from anywhere else because your experience will be very different. We hope the powers-that-be at Gucci (and parent group Kering) will see fit to standardize this experience globally so no market is left behind.

Michele was tapped by iconic designer Tom Ford in 2002 and his 12-year design tenure at Gucci (in various roles) was followed by his appointment as the new Creative Director of the house in 2015 in a bid to give the brand a fresh direction.

Gucci #24HourAce: International Artists Takeover

Advertising doesn’t have to conform to a single formula, especially when one is as imaginative as Alessandro Michele. Following the success of the #GucciGram last year, this year sees the #24HourAce. For 2016, the house of Gucci tapped artists all over the world to create Instagram short films, as well as take over the label’s Snapchat for an hour each based on the theme of the Gucci Ace sneaker.

On July 27, fans of the brand were treated to a 24-hour Snapchat broadcast, as well as a mini tour of the world, as artists posted from Tokyo, Brazil, Norway and New York, among other countries. Art is not bound by geography.

For those of us who have missed the Snapchat takeover, Gucci’s Instagram holds treasures from the collaboration. Read more about the #24HourAce on Men’s Folio Singapore.

This story is also available in Bahasa Indonesia. Read it here: Gucci #24HourAce: Takeover Akun Snapchat Gucci Oleh Jajaran Seniman

18 Best Pre-Fall Womenswear Trends 2016

From androgynous dress suits in floral prints to saccharine-sweet pastels and kitsch sensuality, the trends for Pre-Fall 2016 are pretty diverse, so there’s something for everyone. Here, our friends at L’Officiel Singapore have done the research for you to bring you 18 looks you should sport for the transitional season.

DRESSY SUIT

18 PF16 Trends_Givenchy

Givenchy by Ricardo Tisci

When it comes to suiting now, bolder is better. Give your classic navy and black suits a rest and look to versions in daring prints and opulent fabrics – think Bottega Veneta’s mismatched tailoring or Givenchy’s flower-embellished stunner punked up with studded boots.

STANDARD (RE)ISSUE

Alexander Wang

Alexander Wang

Military gets a cool downtown vibe with Alexander Wang’s introduction of grunge elements – beanies, 
chains and opaque tights – and unexpectedly ladylike accents in the form of velvet heels.

DOUBLE COATED

Dior

Dior

A clever take on layering by the design team at Dior, with a gently curved olive coat shrugged over another coat in rich brown fur. A lace-trimmed slip and sparkly flats lends ease and lightness to the look.

SHEAR THING

Burberry

Burberry

Shearling continues to be a giant trend for Pre-Fall, turning up as cool outerwear at brands as diverse as Coach, Paco Rabanne and Stella McCartney. Christopher Bailey showed an oversized one at Burberry, which he paired with sleek flares and a boyish rucksack.

FUN FURS

Fendi

Fendi

Shearling’s more luxurious cousin is also having its moment in the sun, but these furs are not your grandmother’s dowdy ones. Pre-Fall’s best shaggy pieces come in fabulous hues and patterns like those on Marni’s graphic check fur stole, Valentino’s ombre fur robe and Fendi’s floral explosion.

CANDY CRUSH

Michael Kors Collection

Michael Kors Collection

Considering the fact that most Pre-Fall collections hit shop floors at the height of summer, it makes sense to drench them in sweet, uplifting shades. Giorgio Armani showed tiered dresses in washed-out blues, Sportmax proposed pale lemon for our outerwear, while Michael Kors had us thinking pink.

MASCULINE FEMININE

Versace

Versace

Boy-meets-girl is a trope fashion loves to reinterpret. This season’s offerings include Jason Wu’s jackets that were sculpted for a feminine silhouette, butterfly and lipstick prints on an Alexander McQueen pantsuit, and Prince-of-Wales tailoring at Versace shot through with baby blue and worn with a tiny skirt.

SHINE ON

Emilio Pucci

Emilio Pucci

Who says that sequins should only come out when the sun goes down? When styled with the right pieces, metallics make a wonderful daytime statement too. Case in point: Phillip Lim’s gold wide pants, worn with a silk shirt, and Emilio Pucci’s sequined shirt, paired with a breezy skirt and a sandal-sock combo.

PRETTY PLEATS

18 PF16 Trends_Gucci

Gucci

The pleated midi skirt is fashion’s favourite skirt shape of the moment and no one does it better than Alessandro Michele. This season he rendered it in high-impact silver worn with an equally shiny pink bomber. Elsewhere, Michael Kors, Giorgio Armani and Max Mara also offered beautiful options of the pleated midi.

MODERN ETHNIC

Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen

The current-season way to pull off ethnic influences can be seen in the collections of Alexander McQueen and Altuzarra. The key is to go for a sharper, more fitted silhouette; the end look needs to come off sleek and polished instead of billowy and bohemian.

POWER TULLE

Stella McCartney

Stella McCartney

Where Miuccia Prada goes, others are sure to follow. After last season’s enchanting tulle layers at Miu Miu, the gauzy fabric is shaping up to be a key layering element. Molly Goddard has built a name with her joyful tulle creations, while Stella McCartney presented a womanly version worn over trousers and a bustier.

TIE DYE TWIST

Valentino

Valentino

Designers are reinventing tie-dye with a luxe spin, moving it farther away from hippie-dippy and muddy music-fest connotations. Our favourite version is from Valentino, where the saturation is amped way up and cut into a modern anorak, juxtaposed with a smart shirt and thigh-highs.

SWEET ’60s

Bally

Bally

The youthful charm of the ’60s look has always endured – who can resist the appeal of a little skirt, a fitted jumper and a flattering peacoat? The best looks aren’t faithful reproductions, though; we love Pablo Coppola’s take at Bally where the coat is cut ultra-sharp in bright red and the skirt comes in glossy leather.

’70s REDUX

Saint Laurent

Saint Laurent

The ’70s is another decade that fashion keeps returning to, but no one makes a more convincing case than Hedi Slimane. At Saint Laurent, he conjured up the bohemian glamour of Loulou de la Falaise with his swishing culottes and midi skirts, all topped with silken blouses and showstopping cloaks and capes.

NAUGHTY & NICE

Chanel

Chanel

Fashion loves a good clash of contrasting ideas and this season, designers are riffing on the themes of naughty and nice. Bally has a sharply tailored trench in glossy, fetishistic patent; Alexander Wang put fishnet tights under prim skirts and Karl Lagerfeld invoked Italian screen sirens wearing leather and lace with tweeds and pearls.

SPORTS COUTURE

Paco Rabanne

Paco Rabanne

Athleticism in fashion is here to stay but the most talented, innovative designers are constantly finding new ways to elevate and marry it with high fashion. J.W. Anderson, for example, created bold new things from the idea of nylon and tracksuits, while Julien Dossena at Paco Rabanne cleverly mixed zippers and mesh with lush materials for an effortless but luxurious take.

PUFF PIECE

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton

The grandly exaggerated Edwardian shoulder continues to get more play for Pre-Fall. It showed up with retro inflections at Gucci, while at 3.1 Phillip Lim and J.W. Anderson, it was deconstructed and updated for today’s cool girls. But the most interesting mash-up was at Louis Vuitton where Nicolas Ghesquière paired sculpted shoulders with motorcross leggings and edgy, chunky boots.

DENIM DREAMS

Valentino

Valentino

This wardrobe staple has been given a fancy upgrade for Pre-Fall. At Carven, it was mixed with shearling and shown as a total-look statement. Julie de Libran also showed denim-on-denim at Sonia Rykiel but her looks were embroidered while Massimo Giorgetti’s Pucci pieces were printed with feathers. The most whimsical were Valentino’s versions, which bore elaborate scenes and dreamscapes.

 

 

Gucci Announces Second Phase of DIY Service

It is Creative Director Alessandro Michele’s wish for the customers to reinterpret his aesthetic and express themselves through personalization. You’ve seen the DIY Dionysus bag – Gucci now takes it a step further with unisex jackets and shoes, all at the mercy of your creative prowess.

Fabrics, colors, motifs and even embroidered initials can be switched up to one’s heart content. Go crazy; it’s a little piece of Michele with a little piece of you.

Read more about the collection on L’Officiel Singapore or on Men’s Folio Singapore for a different take.

Prints: Resort 2017 Runway Trend

Monochrome and graphic color blocking are so last season. Don’t believe us? Just take a look at the latest resort 2017 collections to have hit the runways. From abstract, animalistic to floral, the trend is certainly going to excite those who have never been drawn to the plain and safe choices of seasons past.

Edun Resort 2017

Edun Resort 2017

Of course, that isn’t to say that all the prints are loud and vibrant to the point of no return. Fashion — as it always has — provides us with a vast range to choose from and this trend has something for everyone. Those who veer towards minimalist fashion should look to Edun. Inspired by the iconic image of Diana Ross in the 1970s as she lounged by a swimming pool in Palm Springs as well as the Gio Tribe of Northeastern Liberia, the brand has brought out a whole host of colors. Producing a stripe pattern, Edun brings ecrus, rose pinks and soft pale blues together with vibrant yellows and reds.

Michael Kors Resort 2017

Michael Kors Resort 2017

Don’t care too much for color? Michael Kors is your man (or designer). With the help of contemporary houndstooth, tinsel-style stripes and polka dots, the designer shows us how prints can be done in style. Alternative aesthetics are available in the form of floral and feminine motifs from the likes of Carven, whose Prairie-style skirts were livened up with colorful embroidery, and Rochas, whose dainty take on the tropical herbarium saw fluid fabrics dappled with printed orchids, hibiscus, jasmine and wild geraniums.

Dior Cruise 2017

Dior Cruise 2017

Continuing the floral theme was Dior with dainty tea dresses showcasing tiny blooms. A surprising move was from Gucci, whose loud Britannia-loving collection that was filled with Union Jacks and tartans also made way for the girlish and flowery maxi skirts. Of course, the bold and the fashionable are also richly rewarded this season thanks to Moschino. Embracing prints of every kind, the brand channelled the 1970s with full-length animal prints. Another who followed the path of the bold prints was Emilio Pucci who brought palm tree prints, while Roberto Cavalli favored a whirlwind of kaleidoscopic patterns and colors. Even the normally restrained Chanel threw caution to the wind at its Cuban resort show, unveiling patchwork printed jumpsuits and glitzy shift dresses on the catwalk.

23 Stories X Condé Nast, Gucci Create Film Series

23 Stories, an award-winning advertising unit of Condé Nast has partnered with Gucci for an original film series featuring the Italian label’s Pre-Fall 2016 collection.

10361_COND_GUCC_AB_Shot_04_8480_V3_RGB

The four episode series is the first branded program of its kind for the two established firms. Under the critical eye of acclaimed director Gia Coppola, the modern interpretation of classic Greek romance “The Legend of Orpheus and Eurydice” retells the Greek tragedy, set in modern day New York. French personality Lou Doillon (who also happens to be Jane Birkin’s daughter) is styled in creative director Alessandro Michele’s charming, elaborate designs, including a dramatic custom 10-foot wedding veil. Supported with original music courtesy of Devonte Hynes, the atmospheric film is 10 minutes of pure cinematic delight, and perfectly encapsulates the romance and eccentricity of the Seventies.

10361_COND_GUCC_AB_Shot_05_7926_V3_RGB

Marco Bizzarri, Gucci President and CEO, commented “Through the authority and reach of the six Conde Nast brands that are part of this pioneering initiative, we are able to take advantage of highly original and qualitative content to engage with a broad, but targeted audience across geographic regions and platforms in an authentic way.” Bizzarri continued, “Digital narrative – whether through film, social media or native journalism – is the way that Millennials in particular like to be engaged today. Consequently, this type of innovative approach to digital marketing will certainly play an increasingly important part of our strategy going forward.”

The full series will be available exclusively across Vogue, Vanity Fair, GQ, New Yorker, W Magazine, Pitchfork and Gucci, and will be marketed globally across leading Condé Nast digital brands.

 

4 Beauty Looks That Ruled Resort 2017

Chanel might have showed a spectacular Havana-inspired collection and Dior channeled the spirit of travel, but nothing got us more excited than the beauty looks. There’s a lot to be hyped up for Resort 2017, and if you’re doubtful you can achieve these looks, think again – they’re surprisingly easy to score. From ephemeral glowing skin at Louis Vuitton to fiercely-defined eye makeup at Dior, here are four of the biggest looks the transitional season has to offer.

Chanel

Chanel Cruise 2017_cuba

Usually a look only reserved for the beach, Karl Lagerfeld made loose, low-slung ponytails chic again at his Havana-themed show. A dash of apricot-hued blush and hint of dark eyeshadow on dewy, bronzed skin completed the breezy look, and gave off a vacation-vibe that had us wishing the holidays were here sooner.

Louis Vuitton

LV Cruise 2017

The girls at Louis Vuitton went au naturel this season. Strong eyebrows framed the otherwise clean faces, each positively glowing thanks to a dash of shimmer on their faces and lips. Their hair, flowing and loose, were kept untreated for a carefree and insouciant vibe, which helped draw focus to the athletic-inspired apparel.

Gucci

GUCCI_CRUISE_2017

Gucci continued channeling geek chic with a confidently understated look – think lightly powdered matte skin and pale matte lips. The simple look is complete with curled lashes (without mascara, mind you), to open the peepers for the statement eyewear that accompany the looks.

Dior

DIOR CRUISE_ BACKSTAGES_03@Morgan O'Donovan

Things at Dior got fiercely amped up with bold eyes and tightly scraped back hair. The dark exaggerated eyes were juxtaposed by ungroomed, haphazard brows, creating a look that was both empowering and feminine at the same time. The French Maison completed the look with lightly glossed nude lips to prevent the look from becoming too wintery.

 

 

Gucci Cruise at Westminster Abbey

Held in the same venue that hosts the coronation ceremonies of the British monarchy and that sealed one of the most popular unions for the British royal family in the last two centuries, Westminster Abbey played host to Gucci and the brand’s Cruise 2017 collection. Filled with prints, colors and a truckload of materials the collection was all kinds of fun. It may have even given many a new appreciation for granny-chic.

To learn more about the collection and to see our favourite looks, head to L’Officiel Singapore.

Alessandro Michele Tailors Gucci Sneakers

Donning the ornate and flowery motifs of Gucci’s famous creative maestro Alessandro Michele, intermixed with white or shiny textures, these sneakers are unique and exclusive in their design. Coming in both male and female versions, each one will feature laminated snakeskin on the heel.

You can check out more over at Men’s Folio

Guide: Suit Up for Age of Disruption

In the season finale of Billions, hedge-fund king Bobby “Axe” Axelrod had to pound the streets to win back former clients, failing miserably. It wasn’t until he ditched the designer suit and tie in favor of his regular business attire — hoodie, t-shirt and jeans — that he regained his mojo and started speechifying for the win. Dressed down (in high casual), he looked in control and ready to lead, and not just another guy in a suit begging for money. Quite the turn-on-head on Mark Twain’s “Clothes make the man.” To put it another way, expensive suits no longer denote business success.

The intention of a well-dressed workplace is to foster an image of professional success, and for the longest time the business suit embodied that confidence. Axe even said before his attire change (as if to convince himself): “Do you know why we wear ties? To signify seriousness of purpose. Ours is not to question why, but to do.” But clothing as a symbol of (self-)expression has evolved with the times. Office attire no longer distinguish management from workers. Silicon Valley’s “tribal uniforms” displaced the monotonous conformity of the workplace to create a more heterogeneous look. Virgin Group founder Sir Richard Branson notes that Twain was addressing the 19th century when dressing proper was important, whereas in many business setting today a clean pair of jeans, wrinkle-free shirt and pair of sneakers fit right in. So how did the business power suit lose its, well, power?

UNIFORM POWER

Actor Leonardo DiCaprio seen on the set of new film 'The Wolf of Wall Street' in New York City

The history of office wear in the 20th century goes something like this: Suits, suits, suits, suits, khakis. Indeed, the formal suit and tie has been quite the tyrant in its time, keeping a death grip on corporate business for decades by having generations of junior executives sedulously following the dress code of their bosses. The sartorially-inclined might argue that not all suits are made equal, but they’re just being pedantic; a suit is a suit, no matter the peak of its lapel or the fit of its cut.

While the suit’s provenance is likely too far-flung and complex to trace back, the modern look is said to have come directly from Europe at the turn of the century, where business titans donned custom-made frock coats complete with vest, pocket watch, striped trousers and top hat. The working class soon seized upon the fashion for work wear, but not before lobbing off the silly tails and shaping the garment into a more leisurely lounge suit. Mercantile tailors then made the suits slightly different every year (because we all know that’s the best way to get people to buy more clothes), leading to the proliferation of styles through the decades.

The indomitable suit survived the Depression and war, though cloth austerity led to the demise of the double-breasted. It gained personality with loud patterns when European designers insinuated themselves into business fashion, got cut from brave new synthetic fabrics, and paired up with ties that screamed color and size (with knots the size of babies’ fists). Then came Wall Street, the era of conspicuous consumption and flaunting power, where it lined the executive wardrobes of American gigolos and psychos. It became a corporate douchebag with suspenders, and made Armani a boardroom staple. It shrunk and billowed, all the while keeping the same basic shape for the last 100 years — a testament to the strength of its design. Such was the enduring value of the suit, and its monopoly on office dress codes seemed unshakeable.

CHANGING CODES

Alessio Jacona  Flickr 3

Then something radical happened in the 1990s. Blame it on the rise of the tech geeks, preceded by a little creative marketing by The Gap and Levi’s (via Dockers), but suddenly the suit has succumbed to khakis and jeans as the standard corporate livery.

It all started with an innocuous trend called Casual Friday. What human resources thought would be a fun (and free) employee perk turned out to be the seed that eventually inspires office drones to cast off the yoke of their slave-suits. This newfound sartorial freedom left workers slightly stranded at the beginning — many were at a loss without the safety of suits — but with the help of opportunistic brands like Dockers, the new business casual paradigm was established and the (somewhat oxymoronic) relaxed-yet-proper appearance of khaki slacks became de rigueur.

The advent of the Information Age soon gave the traditional business suit its quietus. Technopreneurs liked nothing better than to rant against it (“If you don’t have anything to say, wear a suit,” Bing Gordon, co-founder of Electronic Arts, once told Fortune magazine), while Silicon Valley titans like Steve Jobs, Mark Zuckerberg and Sergey Brin ostensibly rejected the garment as anti-tech, uncreative and living in the past — in other words, dull. And when you run the world like these guys do, you can wear whatever the hell you want to the office, even hoodies and jeans.

This shift in dress code wasn’t just a matter of comfort or convenience, but signified a deeper change in the way people conceptualized professional success. The intense technological revolution has freed people from the confines of the workplace, leading the new generation of business graduates to believe (and decide) that working in a garage, in jeans, with the potential to make millions via a new startup, is more interesting than working in a glass and steel office at the bottom of a rigid corporate ladder. Suits were neither new nor modern, and companies that required them were thought of likewise; to put on a suit was to trail the bandwagon of self-made billionaires pushing into the future.

NEW HYBRID

Gucci

Gucci

In the new millennium, the confidence to dress informally and to disrupt traditional business codes only grew. Zuckerberg famously turned up to his Facebook IPO roadshow in his standard, nondescript uniform, causing consternation among Wall Street veterans. But what corporate conservatives don’t seem to understand is that the “CEO Casual” look is not about age (the lack thereof) or disrespect, rather it’s about presenting a modern, independent, innovative message. Moreover, dressing down only showcases how much power he commands; just because investors disagreed with his fashion choice, doesn’t mean they’re going to stop fighting for a piece of his company (in fact, Zuckerberg’s going to stick to his casuals, and investors are going to like it).

Burberry

Burberry

But as waves of hoodie-wearing millennials flooded companies, it’s hard to tell who’s truly innovative and who’s merely posing. And once everyone in the workplace is wearing t-shirts, sartorial individuality is poised to stand out. Hipster-dandies rose to revive the suit, but with maverick cuts to demonstrate that they’ve got the stuff to pull it off (case in point: The abominable shrunken suit — which originated from Thom Browne — worn with exposed ankles). There’s also a hybridisation of dress codes of sorts, either in the ensemble (suits worn with sneakers) or in the garments themselves (drawstring suit trousers, or technical-fabric suits like Z Zegna’s Techmerino).

Dior Homme

Dior Homme

The new emphasis on originality and freedom meant that anything goes in the office, really, insofar as it is polished and presentable. At the end of the day, the trend towards informality doesn’t actually get away from the traditional business emphasis on appearance and presentation. It simply replaces one standard with another that is, in its own way, just as preoccupied with appearance. At the very least, men are finally able to say that they wear suits when and how they want to.

 

 

This article was originally published in Men’s Folio Magazine

Gucci Teams Up with Net-a-Porter

Those looking to restock their wardrobe with the Gucci’s latest designer threads can now do so in the comfort of their homes with the help of the luxury online retailer Net-a-Porter. This collaboration will see designs from Gucci being sold exclusively by the site. Collaborations such as this, is another way in which Creative Director Alessandro Michelle is steering the brand in a youthful direction.

For more information on the collection, click here.

Alessandra Faccinetti Leaves Tod’s

Another one is out the door. Tod’s announced Friday that Alessandra Facchinetti will be leaving the brand. After three years of leading the team behind the Women’s Collections, the former Creative Director has decided to pack her bags and concentrate on endeavours that had been set aside “to be able to achieve Tod’s strategies.”

The former creative director of Valentino and Gucci also counts Miu Miu and Moncler as former employers. She joined the brand in 2013, replacing Derek Lam and leaves the company on good terms. Alessandra Facchinetti stated: “I will now focus on other projects that I have put aside in order to be able to achieve Tod’s strategies. It has been an honor to work with this extraordinary family company which puts quality, craftsmanship and excellency at the center of its business and I am grateful to Tod’s and especially to Diego and Andrea Della Valle, who have given me outstanding support and who will remain dear friends.”

In a statement released by Tod’s, Diego Della Valle, Chairman and CEO of the Group said ““I would like to thank Alessandra for her contribution to Tod’s. We wanted to develop the Italian Style as well as a strong point of view in fashion, presenting a show not to be missed in Milan and we have reached these objectives. I have given much consideration to this decision; we came to this conclusion after a thoughtful conversation and I wish Alessandra all the best for her future endeavors.”

Sould Facchinetti be on the hunt for a job, we hear that several major labels are keeping their eyes peeled for talented creative directors.

Fashion Impressions: Gucci Publishes Epiphany

A limited edition impressionistic book featuring photographs taken by Ari Marcopoulos has been released by Gucci for a run of 1,000 copies. Marcopoulos is well known for his raw and loose style and his involvement in youth subculture, and he took the pictures in Milan while Alessandro Michele was showcasing menswear and womenswear collections. A perfect blend of fashion and immediacy – Epiphany will be launched at Dover Street Market in New York on May 5.

For the full story you can check out Men’s Folio.

6 Runway Accessory Trends Maximizing Impact

The fashion runways churn out an impressive number of style stories with their trends and designs. Today we take a closer look at the accessories that don’t need to try too hard to catch your attention — simply because you can’t miss them. Bigger is always better it seems with the looks we’ve seen on the catwalk and we can’t wait to share some of our favorites, which are also the favorites of L’Officiel Singapore, who put together this piece.

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Statement necklaces and arm parties have seen their day. With so many designers cutting away garments to reveal necks and shoulders, it only makes sense to draw more attention to these areas via a pair of huge, sweeping shoulder-dusters.Make them the focal accessory by going for interesting details and colour combinations, lots of sparkle, or an arresting sculptural shape.

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Fashion’s fallen head over heels for this punk-tinged hardware, but given it a decidedly feminine touch. Alexander Wang used gold chains to embellish the dainty mesh bags in his romantic all-white Balenciaga collection. Miuccia Prada used them on retro, ladylike pieces in her rich, tactile collection, while Armani and Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen draped them on the body to offset light, delicate clothes.

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Plastic truly is fantastic. Designers as varied as Christopher Kane, Simone Rocha, Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel and John Galliano at Maison Margiela all offered versions of the transparent stuff plastered on bags, heels, sandals and hats. The most directional pieces, though, came from Jonathan Anderson who used it on garments at his eponymous label and on plastic Puzzle bags, pouches, jewelry and even trousers at Loewe.

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If you’re looking to indulge your inner princess fantasies, now is the time to do it. The girls at No 21 wore bands of sparkling stones atop their dreamy white looks. The Rodarte sisters wove medieval-looking gold leaves into their models’ hair, while Dolce and Gabbana crowned their glamorous Italian girls with fruits, crystals and flowers. Not everything was so princess-like though; both Miuccia Prada and Hedi Slimane showed actual tiaras at Miu Miu and Saint Laurent, respectively, but their girls and the clothes had an alluringly rebellious vibe.

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Sandals are a fail-proof summer staple but they’ve now been given a fun fashion twist via luxe materials, bright punchy prints and, most importantly, an elevated standing thanks to a sturdy flatform or a low chunky block heel. We love Fendi’s graphic leather slides, Ferragamo’s strappy ones with pop-coloured soles and those printed Chanel sandals that light up like an airport runway.

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For Spring/Summer ’16, designers have chosen to make their biggest statements in white. The effect is clean and chic, but far from minimal. At Balenciaga, Alexander Wang sent out rucksacks, totes and clutches in beautifully delicate silk satin, lace and woven leathers. Phoebe Philo’s white Céline bags were graphic with interesting hardware details while her Chelsea boots had a chunky, mannish appeal. Massimo Giorgetti’s sandals at Emilio Pucci on the other hand were romantically dotted with pearls.

Story Credits

Text by Jeffrey Yan

This story first appeared in L’Officiel Singapore.